Yonka Moisturizers: all links so far

yonka moisturizers

• ADVANCED OPTIMIZER DUO—Serum & Cream for Anti-Aging
• ALPHA FLUID (formerly Fruitelia PS) (new!)

• CELLULAR CODE SERUM—for mature skin

• CREME 15—for normal to oily and problem skin 

• CREME 28—hydrating cream for dehydrated skin

• CREME 93—for normal to oily skin

• CREME PG—for oily skin

• ELASTINE JOUR—Anti-wrinkle day cream for true-dry skin

• ELASTINE NUIT—Anti-wrinkle night cream for true-dry skin  

• EXCELLENCE CODE CREME for mature skin

• HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE (formerly Masque N°1—my FAVORITE Yonka product) (new!)

• HYDRA N°1 products:  CREME, FLUID, & SERUM

• NEW product: NUDE PERFECT FLUIDE (new!)

• NUTRI DEFENSE for VERY dry skin

• PAMPLEMOUSSE creams—great all-around moisturizers

  

• PHYTO 52—Rosemary cream for all skin types

• PHYTO 58 PS and PNG—therapeutic night creams for both dry and normal to oily skin

• SENSITIVE CREME (replaces Creme 83) (new!)

• SENSITIVE CREME ANTI-RED—soothing corrective anti-redness cream (new!)

• SENSITIVE MASQUE from Yonka-Paris (replaces Creme 11 moisturizing cream) (new!)

• TIME RESIST DAY & NIGHT CREAMS: More new products from Yonka-Paris (new!)

• TIME RESIST Creme Jour 

• TIME RESIST Creme Nuit 

• VITAL DEFENSE—Anti-Aging Cream for Younger Skin

Also see

• Excellence Code Masque: mask or moisturizer? (new!)

• Yonka moisturizer recommendations: a client’s question (new!)

• Yonka moves to airless jars for their newer skin care creams (new!)

• YONKA Problem Skin Helpers + more

Not seeing your favorite Yonka moisturizer?

• Yonka—Discontinued: All links so far

ALPHA-FLUID from Yonka-Paris (formerly Fruitelia PS)

Yonka has been making changes to their products in the last few years, and in doing so they’ve discontinued a lot of products—some favorites of mine and my clients. In some cases they just changed a name here and there and kept the products and ingredients the same. Alpha-Fluid is from that category.

Formerly Fruitelia PS (they did completely discontinue Fruitelia PNG), Alpha-Fluid is the exact same product with a different name. Why this change was made and they decided to remove the AHA product for normal to oily skin (PNG), I don’t know. Although, as you’ll read below, I’m not a huge fan of AHA products in general, for clients with problem, oily skin that was congested, Fruitelia PNG actually did a good job to help keep the congestion down. And since Fruitelia PS is specifically for a dry (oil-dry) skin type, I wouldn’t think Alpha-Fluid then would be a good choice for someone with normal to oily or problem skin. But without further questioning to which I have no answers, here is the information formerly for Fruitelia PS with the names changed to Alpha-Fluid.

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From Yonka headquarters: ALPHA-FLUID (formerly Fruitelia PS) is a moisturizer that employs the exfoliating ability of AHAs. Thanks to fruit extracts naturally rich in alpha hydroxy acids, this creamy emulsion is quickly absorbed and gently renews as it hydrates and revitalizes the skin. This cream stimulates the renewal of the epidermis, smoothes wrinkles and fine lines, softens the complexion, and restores the skin’s natural glow and freshness. Alpha-Fluid leaves your complexion clear, reduces roughness, and smooths out wrinkles and fine lines.

As many of you know, I’m not a fan of AHAs—for the most part. In certain circumstances they can definitely help skin. Where AHAs along with other acid products fall short for me is their action on the delicate capillaries of the face. Acids irritate; that is a normal response to an acidic compound. With the irritation comes a dilation of the capillaries. On paper, that isn’t much of an issue, but in practice it can cause or further redness in even those without much redness in their skin.

I have used Yonka products for over 30 years. When the Fruitelia products came out about 15 years ago, I wasn’t a huge fan. And now, all these years later, I am still not a fan. I have seen a progression of redness in the skin of my clients who love to use this product or a new client who has been instructed to use this AHA cream. I have only a handful of clients on this cream, which has pretty much been the case since these 2 creams were announced because of the reasons I have just given—the beginning of redness or the furthering of redness in people’s skin. It just isn’t a product I reach for. With that said I know many aestheticians love this and other AHA products. 

I’m a big believer in trying things to see if you like them and if they work for your skin. If you are sold on the benefits of AHAs, then by all means, try Yonka’s Alpha-Fluid. However if you notice more redness in your skin after using this cream, please discontinue use and choose a Yonka product that won’t threaten the sensitivity of your capillaries.

*Remember: Alpha-Fluid is the former Fruitelia PS*

Essential ingredients:

• Lemon, orange, sugar cane, maple, blueberry, rich in AHA (fruit acids)—anti-wrinkles, renovating, hydrating 
• Mimosa tenuiflora, marine peptides—regenerating, smoothing 
• Cereal germ oil—nourishing, protecting 
• Rice oil, vitamin E—antioxidants 
• Wild pansies—astringent, purifying
• Calendula—soothing, softening[PS version]
• Titanium dioxide—physically blocks harmful UV rays 
• Essential oils of grapefruit and geranium—regenerating 

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply a pea-sized dollop of ALPHA-FLUID over face and neck 
• Then use eye cream

For more information, see:

• Yonka—Discontinued: All links so far
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?
• Sensitive Skin explained  

Yonka-Paris SENSITIVE CREME (replaces Creme 83)—calming cream for sensitive skin

SENSITIVE CREME, calming cream for sensitive skin replaces the now discontinued Creme 83. Full disclosure: Creme 83 was not a favorite of mine to recommend to my clients with sensitive skin. The reason is because many of the clients I sampled this cream to just didn’t like it. The almost always loved Creme 11, which I would sample along with 83 to all those with sensitive skin. Creme 83 had a lovely lavender aromatic and contained the Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—a combination of these 5 essential oils that are the foundation of this product line.

Creme 11, on the other hand, was a best seller for my sensitive skin clients. It contained no essential oils and had almost no scent—something that is actually unusual for a Yonka product since this line is an “essential oil skin care line.” As you will read below, this new cream also has no essential oils and absolutely no scent, and I can attest to that since I have tried Sensitive Cream myself and experienced the no-scent aspect. So although as per Yonka headquarters Sensitive Creme replaces Creme 83, it may be more alike with Creme 11.

From Yonka headquarters: This innovating creme is an intensive calming treatment that will soothe and strengthen even the most sensitive of skin. This ultra-nourishing formula contains no irritating perfumes or essential oils and works to boost the skin’s natural defenses to help it combat internal and external aggressors. Using the new and an exclusive complex complete with sea mayweed, the skin is protected and less reactive. It is soothed immediately and feelings of discomfort vanish.

Sensitive Creme for calming sensitive skin is a calming, comforting moisturizer for all sensitive and reactive skin. It helps strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, soothing and helpful for uncomfortable, sensitive skin.

You should know, whether you like this feature or not, this new cream has absolutely no scent. None whatsoever. For those who love all the rich aromatics of Yonka products this probably won’t satisfy you. But if you are one of the people who love Yonka but don’t love the strong scents—this might be the cream for you.

Essential ingredients:

• Yacon root, lactobacillus—boosts skins natural defense   
• Sea mayweed—desensitizing
• Shea Butter—nourishing, protective action
• Bisabolol, vegetable glyceryn, olive phytosqualene, polysaccharides—hydrating, soothing

Directions for use:

In the morning:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply a pea-sized dollop of SENSITIVE CREME over face and neck 
• Then use eye cream

For more information, see

• SENSITIVE MASQUE (replaces Creme 11)
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A
• Skin sensitivity and a possible allergic reaction to products: what to do

SENSITIVE MASQUE from Yonka-Paris (replaces Creme 11 moisturizing cream)

SENSITIVE MASQUE from Yonka-Paris is another unfortunate rebranding disaster from Yonka-Paris. There have been so many changes to this line in the past few years it is almost an entirely new product. I have used Yonka for my entire career—almost 33 years. It has only been in the past 10 years and more specifically the last 5 years that all of the changes have taken place.

The fiasco, in my humble opinion, is with this particular product (among others). Here is what I mean: Creme 11 was a wonderful anti-redness creme that enjoyed being in the Yonka lineup for over 3 decades. Because keeping older formulations is not in the Yonka playbook, Creme 11 was destined to leave. Why, I simply can’t understand!

The replacement recommendation for Creme 11 is this product: Sensitive Masque. Now, if the product works—great. But why oh why couldn’t they have called it something else. Or simply reformulated Creme 11 and kept the recognizable name? Yonka never asks me for my opinion and I never have any say so in their corporate decisions. Going from calling something you use daily from a cream to a mask I think is a huge marketing mistake. They also came out with Sensitive Creme and Sensitive Anti-Redness Creme—why did Creme 11 (an anti-redness cream) get stuck with the title mask?

I suppose I just need to get over it and hope Sensitive Masque works the same—perhaps better, if possible—as Creme 11. Fingers crossed! All of the new sensitive skin products came out just as I was closing up shop in Boulder. I did give retail sizes of this to several clients who were regular users of Creme 11.

One client who used and loved Creme 11 tried both Sensitive Creme as well as Creme 11’s replacement: Sensitive Masque. She wasn’t able to articulate why she liked the Creme better than the Masque, but she liked the way Sensitive Creme felt on her skin and that’s really all the information you need. If something feels good (or better than something else) you’ll use it easily.

Because Yonka recommends Sensitive Masque be used in place of Creme 11, I’d start there. If you can get samples of both Sensitive Anti-Redness Creme and Sensitive Creme, then you’ll be able to try all 3 sensitive skin products and can discern which one works the best for your sensitive skin.

For more information, see:

• SENSITIVE CREME ANTI-RED
• SENSITIVE CREME (replaces Creme 83)
• Sensitive Skin: all links so far

Yonka moves to airless jar technology for their newer skin care creams

I have gone on several diatribes about many of the changes Yonka-Paris has gone through in the 30-plus years I have used this product line. Today I feel moved to rant a little bit about Yonka joining many skin care companies who are putting their moisturizing creams in what are called “airless jars.”

For many product lines I believe this is a vast improvement. When you open a jar of cream, you expose all of the contents to bacteria in the air plus you most likely stick your (possibly not completely sanitary) fingers in the jar to retrieve the cream, which then goes on your face. With airless technology you usually press down on the top of the jar or container and a predetermined amount of cream pops up. You simply wipe it off the jar and onto your face. Kind of nifty unless 1) you prefer tubes (that’s me) and 2) the prearranged amount of product just isn’t right for you.

If Yonka was changing from the use of completely open jars to airless jars I’d be all in favor of it. But this is not the case. One of the things I love (love!) about Yonka products, should I now say loved, is they always came in tubes.

• Tubes can stand on end so all of the cream eventually goes to the top (exit area) and you can get practically every last drop of product*
• Tubes stand up in the medicine cabinet (or wherever you put your skin care products) and take up less room
• And to me, tubes look sleeker and more streamlined than clunky jars that are wide and not as easily held as a tube

My question Why use jars? is rhetorical, really. I get why the Multaler family is going toward airless jars, and I will say it does make sense when it comes to being innovative and searching for the newest technology, but I still don’t like it. As far as being forward thinking and on the leading edge, these airless jars are there. Still and all—I prefer tubes. I like dolling out the amount of product I want vs. being given a prearranged amount that comes when you press the jar. Maybe I want just a little bit more—or a little less. You can’t do that with the newfangled jars.

As far as getting all the cream out of the jar, I’ll have to get back to you on that. I haven’t yet finished a Yonka cream in an airless, self-dispensing jar—but I will and I’ll let you know how much product is left, ungettable, in the (presumably) bottom of the jar. Perhaps I’ll be pleasantly surprised on that level at least and will find that all of the cream was pumped out till the bitter end. Time will tell. Until then, I can only hope that all of the “old” creams in the Yonka line remain in tube—forever! 

Yonka products (so far) in airless jars:

• Excellence Code Cream
• Time Resist Jour & Nuit

For more information, see:

• Get every last drop of your creams with a tube wringer! *OK, above I did say that tubes make it easier to get all the cream out—and as you will read in this article, that isn’t altogether true. But with a tube wringer you actually can get all out of the tube!
• My review of Paula Begoun’s review of Yonka-Paris skin care products
• Why are Yonka essential oil products in plastic? (they aren’t tho) (upcoming)

New from YONKA: NUDE PERFECT FLUIDE

From Yonka headquarters:

Ditch the filter thanks to our new NUDE PERFECT FLUIDE. This is a new generation of multi-perfecting fluid with an immediate blurring effect, making an ideal makeup primer during the day. It blurs imperfections, controls the effects of blue light and minimizes the appearance of pores. Light in texture, strong on active ingredients, this innovative formula contains 96% ingredients of natural origin boasting numerous cosmos-certified** organic ingredients that even out skin texture and blurs wrinkles.

Highly effective and guaranteed to result in visibly smoother, clear, and radiant skin, our petit spa-in-a-bottle also minimizes the look of pores. With its fresh 100% natural scent of magnolia, ylang-ylang and the Yon-Ka Quintessence it’s both safe and gentle on the skin. The burst of hydration and antioxidants promotes lasting skin health due to hyaluronic acid, organic prickly pear and Australian Kakadu plum. Ashwagandha protects the skin barrier from environmental aggressors, urban pollution and the damaging effects of blue light.

Ashwagandha

Used in the morning, NUDE PERFECT FLUIDE acts as the perfect primer for under your makeup, blurring imperfections effortlessly. Used at night, it acts as a skin treatment, purifying and balancing the skin, refining texture and tightening pores. With ashwaganda, this light fluid protects the skin barrier from environmental aggressors, urban pollution and the damaging effects of blue light (from TVs, computers and cell phones). Apply it daily as a last step before your makeup.

**A beauty care product is COSMOS ORGANIC certified only if 95% minimum of the plant it contains is organic and at least 20% of organic ingredients are present in the total formula (10% for rinse-off products).

Essential ingredients:

• Mineral sheets, rice powder, amino acid powder (lysine)—blur, soft-focus effect, mattifying
• Iris, zinc, vitamin A—purifying balancing effect
• Jojoba, crithmum—protects against urban particles
• Organic ashwagandha (Cosmo Certified)—protects against blue light
• Vitamin C & E, sophora japonica—antioxidant
• Hyaluronic acid, organic prickly pear cactus (Cosmo Certified)—comfort hydration
• Magnolia essential oil, ylang ylang essential oil, Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—balancing scent

Directions for use:

In the morning and evening:

• Cleanse with your favorite Yonka cleanser
• Use spray toner to hydrate and balance pH of your skin
• Apply NUDE PERFECT
• Finish with your eye treatment of choice—hopefully Yonka!

NUDE PERFECT may also be layered over a serum or concentrate like CELLULAR CODE SERUM, HYDRA Nº1 SERUM OR ADVANCED OPTIMIZER SERUM (my personal favorite!)

Ylang-ylang is one of my favorite essences so I am excited to try this new serum, even though I am not personally looking to cover up anything on my skin. Regardless, I’m sure it smells yummy!

For more information, see:

• Yonka Serums & Concentrates: all links so far
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum
• Blemish Help Quick Tip

More new products from Yonka-Paris: TIME RESIST Day & Night Creams

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, having worked with Yonka for over 30 years, the first 20 had very few changes. The past 5 years or so have seen so many changes it’s hard to keep up. Changes changes changes. If all or most of the changes were things I agreed with (be it naming products or changing formulations) I’d be all for it—of course! But so many of these changes have been things I do not love.
   
“Time-Resist” products are one of the changes I don’t fully agree with. Silly as it may sound, I wish this new line of Yonka products was called “acceptance.” Why? When you resist something, it generally doesn’t go away; when you accept something, you can usually go on with your life without that resistant roadblock. With acceptance you are putting far less energy into a thing than if you put up resistance. Here the “thing” is aging.

I’m 59 years old. Although I am retired from giving facials now, I took care of people’s skin with exceptional care for over 33 years as a working aesthetician (and my own skin for even longer). I have written in my books and here on this blog about how I believe accepting the aging process, this inevitable process, is essential to creating a smooth road to travel as we all are getting older.

With these new Yonka products, it might just be a matter of semantics, but I still don’t like the name “Time-Resist.” I only hope I like the formulations and the products themselves. Then all else can be forgiven.

The two new Time Resist creams are in jars. The use of jars is a change that Yonka seems to be going toward more and more. Many of their new moisturizers are in jars; I happen to love tubes. I like being able to dispense the amount of cream I want to use from a tube vs. being subject to a pre-arranged amount that now comes out in these airless jars. (See link below for more information about this new airless jar technology.)

This post is basically an overview of these two new creams. For more specifics about each one, see their individual links listed below. The Stimulastine products (Jour & Nuit) were discontinued in 2016. These two Time Resist products are basically their improved (and more expensive) replacements.

All of the following in italics is information about these new cremes from Yonka headquarters:

Aging is a part of the natural life cycle, which is predetermined at birth. Aging skin reveals the effects of time passing and the skin can thin, wrinkle, and loose its density and radiance. External factors (pollution, smoking, alcohol, sun, etc.) speed up these phenomena.

[As I have written in both the separate Time Resist Jour/Nuit articles: I don’t agree that your personal aging process is “predetermined at birth.” I don’t think or I certainly hope this isn’t what Yonka means since everything you do in your life affects how your skin ages. Genetics do plan a big role, of course, but for all the reasons we know many things (sun, food, indulgences, stress) play an even bigger role in how we will age.]

If you loved Stimulastine, then you’ll love the TIME RESIST duo which is a precious ally for your skin. TIME RESIST provides your skin with advanced natural ingredient technology that neutralizes the effects of these external factors, controlling the visible signs of aging.

At the heart of these velvety and hydrating formulas is an all-new synergy that combines new-generation plant-based stem cells with the anti-inflamm’aging Youth Energy lipoaminoacid to uphold your skin’s youth. Protected throughout the entire day, technologically advanced microspheres enriched with hyaluronic acid visibly smooth wrinkles and give the skin more bounce. At night, the Euglena gracilis and silk tree extracts replenish and revitalize your skin so it appears firm and fresh upon wakening. 

In time wrinkles are visibly smoothed, skin is plumped, signs of tiredness are diminished, and your complexion is much brighter.

Discover a new application gesture with the touch & slide airless jar. It delivers the right dose of cream by pressing down once on the cap. This economic innovation is safe and maintains the beautiful aromatic pleasures of Yon-Ka products.

TIME RESIST Targets Dermal Stem Cells
Stem cells are essential for preserving young and beautiful skin. Yon-Ka revolutionized this approach by taking an interest in dermal skin cells hidden away in the deep dermal layers of the skin. Still unknown to us a few years ago, they are at the core of the skin’s firmness and elastic properties.

Plant-based Saponaria Pumila stem cells, the mountain’s secret to young skin

Yon-Ka found a revolutionary way to preserve dermal stem cell activity by boosting them with plant-based stem cells of Saponaria pumila. 
This mountainous plant survived through the ice age by developing incredible protective and repairing abilities. Yon-Ka showcases its powerful survival potential to help preserve dermal skin cells.

TIME RESIST Fights Against Inflamm’aging

As the contraction of “inflammation” and “aging,” Inflamm’aging is a phenomenon that affects all humans. With age, chronic and silent reactions spread through skin tissues and weaken the cells’ defense systems.


Youth Energy, Yon-Ka’s serenity molecule
Yon-Ka based its work on a biotechnological active ingredient that mimics the PalGly molecule–known as the “serenity molecule,” naturally present in our bodies and presenting anti-stress and anti-inflammatory properties. Youth EnErgY is a lipoaminoacid that shows excellent affinity with the skin. When integrated into the TIME RESIST formula, this new active ingredient provided skin with the biological secrets for harmonious longevity.

Innovative Results

After 28 days of using the TIME RESIST creams, skin is smoother, firmer, more supple and elastic.


• Reduced wrinkles: -75%*
• 100%** of women found their skin to be more beautiful***

*CLINICAL TEST—Dermatological evaluation after application of the TIME RESIST duo in the morning and evening by 20 women aged 40 to 55 for 4 weeks (best results)
.

**CONSUMER TEST—Self-evaluation after application of the TIME RESIST duo in the morning and evening by 45 women aged 35 to 55 for 4 weeks.

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***This is where Yonka absolutely loses me. “Self-evaluation” is a ridiculous “test result” to include in any information regarding this or any product—in my opinion. In the past, when I’ve listened to these “results” in the seminars on new products, it was all I could do to not speak up (which I did) and exclaim my strong disagreement with these evaluations. “100% of women found their skin to be more beautiful.” I mean—is that a real “innovative result” of this product—self evaluation?

When I first ever saw Yonka and the back-then Yonka product manuals, they were like looking through deeply involved scientific chemistry books. I was amazed, intrigued, and it didn’t take me long to fall in love with everything Yonka-Paris. If I saw the professional information on this line as it is presented now, I wouldn’t be so impressed. It resembles all the multitudes of information on just about all other product lines. Gone is the technical approach that I so loved over 3 decades ago. Oh, well, I guess this is progress. And if these products work as well on your skin as they appear to on paper, I’m all for that, test “results” or not!

For more information, see:

• TIME RESIST Creme Jour
• TIME RESIST Creme Nuit
• Yonka moves to airless jar technology for their newer skin care creams
• To age or not to age: Is that the question? 

Excellence Code Masque: mask or moisturizer?

I am not a huge fan of using moisturizing masks. First, I think it’s a waste of product—especially an expensive product like Excellence Code Mask. Second, if your skin feels like it needs extra moisture, you are most likely dehydrated and the best and most effective solution for that is exfoliation. There is no better exfoliatior than Yonka’s Gommage. It is hands down the best way to get rid of dead skin on the surface of your face.

If your skin is dehydrated, it has too many dead cells built up on the surface. To then simply put a thick moisturizer (aka moisturizing mask) on all of that dead skin, it is an ineffective way to hydrate the surface. Exfoliate—get rid of some of that buildup then add moisture to your face.

Because I simply can’t apply a product with wonderful ingredients, leave for 15 minutes, then remove (unless the mask you are using is clay-based—something you wouldn’t leave on much longer than that), I decided to try this mask as a nighttime moisturizer. And not “in a thin layer” as recommended below. I used Excellence Code Masque as my moisturizer at night for one week. The results: Wow—this is a great cream! And yet another “mask” that I will recommend as a regular moisturizer.

Another way to use this mask is to apply a thin layer under your regular moisturizer to give your skin that extra hydration boost it may need. There are several Yonka products made for this very purpose, but if you already have the Code mask, you could try this as another way to utilize its wonderful hydrating abilities.

As you can see by the ingredients, Excellence Code Masque has a lot of bells and whistles—truly wonderful and advanced anti-aging components. It feels great going on and has a lovely aromatic (aka: it smells good!). My skin was not only more than sufficiently hydrated but it did take on a certain “glow”—what I would prefer calling a healthy look and feel.

Caution: if you do not have true-dry (oil-dry) skin, this “cream” is probably going to be too much for you. This particular mask—used as a moisturizer—really does require a dry skin type (not simply dehydration).

Some of you may love using moisture masks to hydrate your skin. Used as a mask, Excellence Code Masque will probably be fine for all skin types; be sure to monitor your skin with this or any new product you’re using. It is a wonderful hydrating product, no matter my preference for its use. TRY IT—you will love it!

For more information, see:

• Yonka’s Age Exception EXCELLENCE CODE MASQUE
• GOMMAGE YONKA—Soft Peel Miracle
• Yonka’s MASQUE N°1—it’s not a mask, it’s the Best Moisturizer—ever! Although this product has been rebranded with a new name (Hydra Nº1 Masque), I include this original article for you to read about how even though it is called masque it was always meant to be a hydrating moisturizer for day and/or night.

Yonka’s SENSITIVE CREME ANTI-RED—soothing corrective anti-redness cream

Although I was so disappointed Yonka discontinued Creme 11, a great moisturizer for sensitive skin, I am excited to see they have also come out with several new sensitive skin creams, including this one specifically for anti-redness. Although headquarters says that Sensitive Masque is the replacement for Creme 11, it seems to me that this cream as well will be a good alternative to those who have sensitive, perhaps red skin.

This is one of those product names that I think is unfortunate. Maybe it’s because Yonka is a French line and some of the titles don’t translate well into English. But to call this Sensitive Creme Anti-Red is counterintuitive so from here on out I will call it Sensitive Anti-Redness Creme. Small difference perhaps, but it rolls off the tongue a bit easier. With that said, my hope is this cream does all it says it will. With so many people with red, sensitive skin, a wonderful Yonka cream could be just to the ticket to healthier, less visibly red skin.

From Yonka headquarters: 

Sensitive Creme Anti-Red is a cream designed to immediately reduce redness in reactive skin types and has both short- and long-term benefits to treat and improve the skin’s coloring. This advanced formula contains natural green pigments that instantly hide visible redness and also vaso-constricts to decrease inflammation. Potent plant botanicals of centella asiatica and Marvel of Peru work in synergy to visibly reduce the appearance of capillaries and decrease the skin’s redness and reactivity. Used daily, this anti-redness creme will impart immediate benefits on redness, -31% after one month*.

Due to [aforementioned] color correcting green pigments, Anti-Red has an immediate effect in reducing redness in most sensitive skin types. Reactive skin with broken capillaries is visibly reduced while inflammation is soothed and calmed. For all sensitive, irritated skin conditions, including rosacea, this innovative product will help reduce inflammation and vascular dilation [common with couperouse skin]. Sensitive Anti-Red Creme does not contain any essential oils.
*I don’t know what this means or how this information was obtained, but Yonka’s products are effective and I will leave it at that.

Essential ingredients:

• Natural green pigments—correct redness in complexion
• Centella asiatica, mirabilis jalapa (Marvel of Peru)—corrects redness (anti-redness) and soothes
• Olive phytosqulene, polysaccharides, vegetable glycerin—deeply hydrating, soothing
• Bisabolol—soothes and repairs

Directions for use:


In the morning and/or evening:


• After cleaning and spraying on your favorite Yonka toner
• Apply SENSITIVE CREME ANTI-RED to your face and neck
• Then use your eye treatment cream

It is possible you will only want to use this cream during the day to “hide” your redness. However, based on what headquarters recommends, you certainly can use at night as well and perhaps this will bring the “long-term” results Yonka states above.

For more information, see:

• SENSITIVE MASQUE (replaces Creme 11 moisturizing cream)
• Sensitive Skin: all links so far
• Rosacea: all links so far

HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE (formerly Masque N°1—my FAVORITE Yonka product)

HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE is the replacement for my very favorite Yonka moisturizer, MASQUE Nº1. As many of you know, I love(d) Masque Nº1. For clients with true-dry skin, this was my go-to recommendation. And I used it myself with terrific hydrating results.

     

As per Yonka’s corporate education department: The Parent Company did not announce any significant formula change to the Hydra Nº1 Masque and we can confirm that the ingredients are the same, with a few ingredients appearing in different order. The features, benefits, and actions on the skin remain unchanged, and both you and your clients can expect the same long-lasting results with Hydra Nº1 Masque. As a reminder slight color and texture variances are normal when formulating with natural ingredients.

To me, these creams seem different vs. what Yonka says above—that the ingredients are the same. The two products have very different aromatics. I actually love Hydra Nº1 Masque’s jasmine scent. Masque Nº1 has a somewhat similar aroma but it is not at all as distinct and powerful as Hydra Masque. And since they said there was only a shift in order of certain ingredients, I just had to see for myself!

After looking at every single ingredient (and there are many) these two creams are virtually the same. For me, they have different aromatics, but I do love them both (even if I’ll always love Masque 1 just a bit more).

With all the changes Yonka has brought to all of us aestheticians and sales people, and also users of their products, I do think I can live with this one. Some of the other cream replacements aren’t so identical so I consider myself lucky since I have loved and used Masque 1 since it came out years ago and really wasn’t up for making a big change with my personal skin care. And I feel confident recommending Hydra Masque to those who have used Masque 1. Whew!

From Yonka headquarters:
Savor the intense, time-releasing hydration of this bestselling mask with anti-aging effects. Infused with imperata cylindrica grass, aloe vera, and rose, jasmine, and shiu essential oils, this natural bouquet imparts both immediate and long-lasting hydration. With a gel-cream texture and a beautiful floral scent, it reduces the appearance of fine lines and soothes all types of damaged skin. This weekly hydrating cream mask* is great for use during travel and may be left on overnight for a powerfully curing treatment.
*As was true for Mask 1, this is best used as a daily moisturizer in my opinion. It is how Mask 1 was recommended and I follow that advice with this similar product. Using it as a mask is fine, but to me this makes for a wonderful daily hydrating product.

Essential ingredients:

• Imperata cylindrica, aloe vera, PCA, plant glycerin—hydrating 
• Silicon derivative—regenerating 
• Vitamin A—regenerating
• Jojoba, sandalwood, phellodendron, barley—anti-dehydrating, repairing
• Bacopa monniera—antioxidant
• Vitamins C and E—antioxidants
• Bisabolol, vitamin B5—soothing
• Essential oils of rose, jasmine, shiu—relaxing

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• Cleanse then pat skin dry
• Spray on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE to your face and neck
• Use your favorite Yonka eye treatment

For an extra hydrating benefit, if you aren’t using this cream as your daily/nightly moisturizer but need some additional moisture in your skin, before hopping into bed apply a thin layer of Hydra Nº1 Masque over your cream (no matter your skin type) and allow it to sink in while you sleep. It will give intense hydration to even the most sensitive skins, and you’ll wake up with smoother, softer, fuller-looking skin.

For more information, see:

• MASQUE N°1—it’s not a mask, it’s the Best Moisturizer—ever! Even though this is “old” news, it still has pertinent information for those changing over to Hydra Nº1 Masque since these two creams are basically the same.
• Yonka—Discontinued: All links so far
• Why you want to use a moisturizer

Yonka moisturizer recommendations: a client’s question

Hi Carolyn! Quick question: I’m still using Yonka’s Optimizer Serum and Cream [aka Optimizer Duo]. Is there any other moisturizer I could use or should try? I still have combination skin, although we’re heading into winter in Chicago. I’m missing the Yonka aromas that I get from other creams in the line! Just thought I’d ask to see if you have any recommendations for other Yonka creams.

One of the many qualities of Yonka-Paris skin care is the amazing aromas. Finding aromatic cremes here is not a problem! Have you ever tried Masque Nº1? I’m thinking you have used it in the past and you didn’t like it—is that right? Mask 1 is my favorite cream and has a lovely jasmine aromatic. (This wonderful creme has been “rebranded” and is now called Hydra Nº1 Masque. It is not what I would call identical to Mask 1 but it’s a close 2nd.)

A newer product, Nutri Defense, is also a good winter cream. I have a client with problem skin who is having issues with dehydration and she swears by this cream! This wouldn’t be my go-to product for an oilier skin, but I do recommend it for my true-dry skin clients, especially during a Colorado winter. Even though you have a combination skin type, you might do just fine with Nutri Defense.

Pamplemousse PS is a wonderful grapefruit cream. You might need to add a moisture-boosting elixir like Hydralia (now renamed: Hydra+) to this creme for winter. Pamplemousse PS isn’t as hydrating as other Yonka dry skin creams, but using the glycerin additive can really make this a perfect combination for your combination skin in a dry Chicago winter. 

Vital Defense is a another option. It too might necessitate Hydralia for extra oomph. It is “lighter” than Nutri Defense but you could try it without Hydralia and see if it is hydrating enough. However in the middle of winter you’ll most likely want some extra hydration so having Hydralia on hand is a good idea.

I hope this helps! Yonka truly has so many wonderful moisturizing creams I know one of these will be a good fit—probably more than one! 

For more information, see:

• HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE (formerly Masque N°1—my FAVORITE Yonka product)
• Yonka’s VITAL DEFENSE—Anti-Aging Cream for Younger Skin
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum