Dry Skin Issues/Including Dehydration: all links so far

dry skin issues/including dehydration

• A confused client needs help: “Dry? Acne? Rosacea? What is going on with my skin?”

• Chemotherapy & Skin Care

• Dehydrated Skin explained

• Dehydrated Skin Q & A

• Dehydrated Skin Quick Tip

• Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin

• Help for dehydrated skin on an airplane

• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?

• PLEASE DON’T DO THIS! A personal note about your skin and airplanes

• Problem skin profile: Stephanie—breakouts, stress, moving to a new city & more!

• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?

• True-Dry Skin explained

• True-Dry Skin explained—again + Q & A

• Winter Skin 101

• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!

PLEASE DON’T DO THIS! A personal note about your skin and airplanes

Please: Don’t assess your skin 

in the bathroom of an airplane!

I always laugh when I’m traveling, in flight, and see my face in the mirror of the plane’s bathroom. I look at least 10 years older! I see things that on a normal day, in normal light, under normal circumstances, I don’t see. For starters:

• You are looking very close up
• Your skin is probably severely dehydrated during your flight
• You are looking at yourself under the worst kind of light possible: fluorescent light 

Therefore it is so unfair to make any assumptions about what your skin really looks like after seeing it in the mirror of an airplane bathroom.

Please do not use these reflections as real and valid. You are in unusual conditions, and these images of your skin are unreal!

For more information, see:

• Airplanes, travel, and skin care: Help for dehydrated skin
• Airplanes, travel, and skin care: Help with internal hydration
• Dehydrated Skin Q & A

True-Dry Skin explained—again + Q & A

Dry skin, or what I call true-dry (oil-dry) skin, is a condition where your sebaceous (oil) glands are not producing enough oil to lubricate your outer skin. The outer skin is kept moisturized by both water at the surface (and from the air) as well as sebum being excreted from your oil glands. Simply put, true-dry skin does not produce enough oil to keep the outer skin moist.

True-dry skin needs to be artificially lubricated with moisturizing creams, so you want to keep high-quality moisturizers on at all times. True-dry skin needs exfoliation as well since any dead cell buildup will make the skin feel even drier.

True-dry skin can be a frustrating condition, especially if you are not using products that are moisturizing enough. Once your skin stops producing enough oil to keep the surface of your face moisturized, tightness and perhaps even flakiness can be a part of your everyday life.

I’m not a soap lover, but someone with true-dry skin really should avoid soap at all costs. This alkaline product will just make your already dry skin feel drier. Many gel cleansers have a foaming action, and these can also be too drying if you have dry skin. The best cleansers to use are cream washes or milk cleansers. These generally will not strip your skin and shouldn’t leave your face feeling dry after cleansing.

Always use a toner—without alcohol, of course! I recommend finding one with moisturizing ingredients in it, like glycerin. And your moisturizers (day and night creams) should have quality vegetal oils in them that will ensure a good all-day or all-night hydration for your oil-deficient skin.

Note: If you don’t have true-dry skin, none of the above recommendation are for you! Even if your skin feels dry. Dry skin—true-dry—simply doesn’t produce enough oil to lubricate the skin’s surface and therefore needs special products to super-hydrate and moisturize.

I recently purchased some products for dry skin as well as an oil-based serum for hydration. I have been mixing a drop of the serum with the moisturizers and have even tried using the night cream during the day. I have also been exfoliating and using a glycerin-based toner for dry skin. My skin is still very dry and flaky. I have been using Ponds® cream during the day and Vaseline® at night. A dermatologist told me to use the Vaseline, and it worked pretty well, but my pores stayed clogged.

Instead of putting one drop of the serum into your creams, try putting five or so drops on your face before applying your creams. In other words, cleanse, tone, apply five or more drops of serum to your entire face, massage the oil in, and then apply your day or night cream over that. And if you feel like you need it, go ahead and add some of the oil to your moisturizers as well. If you are using a glycerin-based serum or even a vegetable oil-based product, these shouldn’t cause you to become clogged (as long as you have true-dry skin).

Vaseline and anything else that has a high concentration of petroleum will usually clog the pores. These substances have a large molecular structure and aren’t able to penetrate the skin. They remain on the surface as occlusive covers. This not only can clog the pores, but it also inhibits your skin’s natural elimination and absorption action.

If you think you have dry skin because it feels dry but you still have oil-based problems (most notably breakout and/or blackheads), there are numerous articles on this blog detailing dehydrated skin along with many other skin conditions. Without accurate information, you might make mistakes when picking out products for your skin.

For more information, see:

• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Determining Skin Type

A confused client needs help: “Dry? Acne? Rosacea? What is going on with my skin?”

I have dry, scaly patches on my cheeks, but my dermatologist said I have acne. He gave me a topical ointment plus oral antibiotics. Is my skin dry or is it acne? It’s all so confusing! Help! Plus an aesthetician said I have a little rosacea on my cheeks. I’m so sensitive and have spent so much money at the dermatologist and having different treatments—what should I do? What is my skin type?

I love this person’s remarks. She exemplifies the confusion so many people face when it comes to their skin. “A doctor said this, and I am taking a prescription medication, but with little or no results. I don’t understand my skin.” Sometimes clients even say “My skin is confused.” Your skin isn’t confused; it is simply reacting to its environment (internally and externally). Your skin, in fact, knows exactly what to do—and is doing exactly what it needs to do. It is the consumer who gets confused, and for good reason. I will break down her comments to see if I can make better sense of what is going on with her skin.

I have dry, scaly patches on my cheeks, but my dermatologist said I have acne. Dry and scaly skin does not equal acne. If your skin feels dry and looks scaly, you probably need to exfoliate. True scaliness could mean your skin is having an allergic reaction or perhaps an intolerance to a product, especially a new product. Dry and scaly skin could be eczema, a common dermatitis. Dry and scaly could also be your skin’s reaction to harsh and drying products you may be using to decrease oiliness or problem skin. Remember: your skin is reacting to something when it becomes dry and scaly. Look to your skin care habits and the products you are using, even extreme weather conditions, to find out what may be causing these reactions.

He gave me a topical ointment plus oral antibiotics. A topical product for acne may help with breakouts, but it also may be causing the dry and scaly condition of your skin to continue or even get worse. Many times dermatologists prescribe creams and ointments that are meant to dry things out. This, as you know (or will find out), is not how I would go about treating an acne or problem skin condition. If your skin seems drier and more scaly or red and irritated after the prescribed treatment products, don’t use them! Monitor your skin and let it be your guide, but do contact your doctor about any reactions.

Regarding antibiotics, taking anything orally affects your entire body. Constant or repeated use of oral antibiotics can cause several problems. First, it can create a healthy environment for unhealthy bacteria to flourish in your large intestines. Your colon is set up with a particular balance of both good and bad bacteria; antibiotics kill both the bad and the good bacteria. Second, your immune system can weaken from constant use of antibiotics. If and when you really do need to produce antibodies to fight off bacteria, your system is less able to do so, which makes you vulnerable to getting sick. Antibiotics—long term—set up imbalance.

Is my skin dry or is it acne? It’s all so confusing! Plus an aesthetician said I have a little rosacea on my cheeks. I have found acne and rosacea to be the most misdiagnosed conditions or at least the two most overused words to describe skin problems. You may very well have rosacea, although the description of your skin didn’t necessarily indicate that. I would suggest reading about rosacea so you can see if the symptoms match your skin’s condition. The treatment for rosacea is miles apart from acne treatment. Perhaps you truly do have acne or even rosacea, but you may just have problem skin that has been adversely affected by the actual treatment of your problems. Now that is confusing. You may simply have problem/dehydrated skin.

I’m so sensitive and have spent so much money at the dermatologist and having different treatments—what should I do? What is my skin type? If you take away all the treatments and medications that could be causing problems, it might be easier to determine your true skin type. Your skin’s condition is what you need to treat first and foremost. It is the immediate need, secondary to skin type. Once your skin has normalized, you can better determine what products would be effective for your actual type of skin or skin type.

It’s difficult to treat skin conditions yourself if you don’t know what is going on. That is the purpose of my writing—to help you determine for yourself what the problems are and how to go about solving them. I want to give you the knowledge and the tools to help you help yourself. If you have acne and cannot get rid of it by changing your lifestyle habits (or because you refuse to), then absolutely, go see your doctor. Medications may indeed help you, but in this person’s case, it didn’t help her and seemed to cause her skin more problems.

For more information, see:

• What is acne? Acne explained
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A
• Dermatitises (skin inflammations) explained

Dehydrated Skin Quick Tip

Humidifiers add moisture to the air. If you have dehydrated skin, I recommend putting a humidifier in your bedroom and using it nightly—especially during the winter months. Your skin will be a “captive audience” for the six to eight hours you are asleep. It can make a big difference in the moisture level of your skin. Remember to keep the humidifier away from direct contact with your furniture. (It can warp the wood due to all the moisture.)

For more information on keeping your skin hydrated, see:

• Winter Skin 101
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum

Dehydrated Skin Q & A

I wanted to let you know that my skin has cleared up beautifully, and I have a question: My skin doesn’t seem dry, but when I smile my cheeks (where the skin is very thin and scarred) have dry-looking lines. What should I use for this? Now that I have stopped breaking out, the scars are better but the skin is still thinner in that area. I certainly don’t want to aggravate my skin with something that will make me break out—lines are better than blemishes for now!

If your skin doesn’t feel dry, I don’t recommend doing too much in terms of adding heavy moisturizers. You may just be noticing your skin there, whereas before you were looking at the breakouts. Perhaps it’s not your skin that has changed, but your perception of it.

Yonka's Hydralia

However, if your skin actually feels dry on your cheeks, you can try adding a glycerin-based hydration booster to your creams. I wouldn’t recommend applying something directly to the area; there is too much of a risk the product might go on thicker than you realize, and breakout may result. I usually recommend a booster for people who have oily and/or problem skin that feels dry but is really dehydrated, or any one looking to add moisture without adding oil to a dry-feeling skin. Try this adding-to-your-creams tip and see how this works for you. Exfoliating, too, will help relieve the surface of dead cells that may be hanging around and causing the dry feeling.

Dehydration needs to be attended to, but remember—you always want to treat the oil content of your skin first, whether there is an overabundance or lack of oil production. Dehydration is easily diminished by exfoliating. If you have severe or deep dehydration, you may need to use hydrating elixirs or a more effective exfoliator. If your skin can tolerate AHAs, then this type of ingredient may work to rid your skin of dehydration. I caution you, though, if you have sensitivities or are prone to redness, AHAs can be more detrimental than beneficial depending on your skin. 

Be sure to take care of dehydrated skin so it doesn’t develop into a more severe condition. Exfoliate more regularly and see if this alone helps your problem. Understanding the simple difference between these two separate conditions (dehydration and true-dry skin) can keep you from experiencing a skin care catastrophe when purchasing your skin care products.

For more information on dehydration, see:

• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Dehydrated Skin explained
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum

Dehydrated Skin explained

What is dehydrated skin? 

Dehydration is not “dry skin” or what I call true-dry skin. Dehydrated skin feels dry, but technically dry skin is lacking oil versus dehydrated skin that is lacking water. Dehydrated skin generally has a large buildup of dead skin cells. It is the job of those cells to retain moisture in the form of oil and water. If there are too many dead cells on the surface, more water is needed to keep all the cells moist. By eliminating the buildup (achieved through exfoliation), your cells are better able to retain moisture and less likely to become dehydrated.

Why is it dehydrated? Skin becomes dehydrated for several reasons:

• Some people are genetically predisposed and naturally dehydrated. This type of dehydration is usually very deep and tends to be harder to treat.
• Climate is a big contributor to the hydration level of the skin. People in desert climates are usually battling dehydration because there is so little moisture in the air, while those in a more humid environment don’t become dehydrated as easily.
• Seasonal weather can affect the hydration of the outer skin. Winter air is usually cold and dry, coupled with indoor heat that zaps moisture from the air causing the skin to become dehydrated. Using a humidifier to combat this dry, artificial heat can really be beneficial to the skin.
• Flying can do a number on the skin since the air in planes is extremely drying.
• Sun exposure can also leave the skin dehydrated. If, for instance, you put a bowl of water outside in the hot sun, it won’t take long for the water to evaporate. The same is true for the skin.
• Soap, because it strips the skin of all oil and water, can lead to mild to severe dehydration as well.

What to use on dehydrated skin. Anytime you feel dehydrated, a good course of action would be to exfoliate, and then follow with an appropriate moisturizer. Exfoliating immediately removes dead skin buildup, enabling the remaining cells to retain water more efficiently. If you are dehydrated, yet have oily or problem skin, do not overload on moisturizer because this can easily lead to breakouts. If you’re oily, using moisturizers for dry or dehydrated skin can cause clogging problems. Dehydration should be treated separately from oil or lack of oil production. In short, exfoliation is the key to alleviating dehydrated skin.

Drinking water may help to keep your skin better hydrated; however, it does not eliminate dehydration. Water is utilized in your entire body for many different purposes. Even if you drink a lot of water, it doesn’t necessarily go directly to your skin. But drinking at least eight 8-ounce glasses is still the rule for getting enough water in your system.

Don’t use drying or harsh products on dehydrated skin. Soap can definitely cause flakiness and dehydration. Milky cleansers that are non-alkaline are best. Using an alcohol-free toner will help add moisture to the surface since most toners are primarily water. Still, the best and fastest relief for dehydrated skin is exfoliation.

For more information, see:

• Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!

If it’s saying “I feel dehydrated,” try exfoliating!

Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?

What’s the difference between dry and dehydrated? I’m confused.

A definite misunderstanding surrounds these two separate conditions that are thought to be the same. No wonder you are confused! In the title I put quotation marks around “dry” because so many people I see come in saying they they have dry skin when really they are simply dehydrated.

Dehydrated skin is skin where the outer skin cells are not retaining enough water to keep the skin feeling hydrated. There is usually an excessive buildup of dead cells on the surface of dehydrated skin, therefore exfoliation is necessarily (manually removing the dead skin) in order to relieve the condition. No amount of moisturizing (piling on layers of face creams) will truly fix the problem, but through regular and thorough exfoliation, you can greatly reduce or eliminate dehydration. In short, dehydrated skin is lacking water retention and needs exfoliation.

Dry skin or what I call true-dry skin is oil dry. It simply does not emit much or enough oil. Therefore this skin usually does not have blackheads, whiteheads, and almost never has breakout. True-dry skin needs moisturizing to help add oil to its oil-deficient surface. Exfoliation can help, but what is really needed is proper moisturizing with creams to lubricate the oil-deficient outer skin. 

A common mistake people with dehydrated skin make is to over-moisturize. Because their skin feels dry, it seems logical to give the skin more moisture. With true-dry skin this is fine. But if your skin is emitting enough or in some cases too much oil, over-moisturizing is where the problems can really begin. You start off with dehydration and can end up with congestion or breakout on top of the dryness (dehydration).

Making the distinction between dry and dehydrated skin is imperative. Without knowing which skin condition you have, you could really cause problems down the road.

OK, so my skin is dehydrated, not dry. What should I do?

In a word—exfoliate! There are many methods you can use to get rid of the dead skin on your face. Gommage (soft gel peel) is my personal favorite. There are other exfoliators like papaya enzyme peels as well as AHA peels and so forth—all of which can irritate sensitive skin. If your exfoliation system is causing irritation or redness in your skin, you may want to switch to a more gentle one. However you choose to do it, the way to get rid of dead skin cells is to slough them off—or exfoliate. 

Your skin will let you know when it’s time to exfoliate: when it feels tight and dry. During the winter months, you may need to exfoliate more often, maybe 2 or 3 times per week. This depends on your environment (how dry the heat is in your home) and just how dry your skin feels. Remember, exfoliation will relieve that dry feeling. By exfoliating regularly, you can keep your skin soft and supple, even through a rough, cold winter.

Hopefully you are beginning to understand the difference between dry (true-dry) and dehydrated skin. If you’ve read similar articles on this blog, you know I have tried to clear up this most important issue. As an aesthetician I continue to talk about this with my clients who come in thinking they have true-dry (oil-dry) skin when they are really dehydrated with an oily or normal to oily skin type.

Please read the following to become more familiar with this subject—for your skin’s sake!

• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• True-Dry Skin explained
• Dehydrated Skin explained

Chemotherapy & Skin Care

Chemotherapy is hard on the entire body, not just your skin. If you are currently undergoing chemo, you are undoubtedly experiencing severely dried-out, dehydrated skin among other things. Your face may look hard and dry, and the skin may be flaking. The two most important things to do for your skin while on chemotherapy are moisturizing and exfoliating.

Exfoliating will help to rid your skin of a lot of the dry, flaky cells while helping your moisturizer do its job. Because the chemicals being introduced into your body may make your skin very sensitive, finding an exfoliation process or product that works without irritating your skin may be a challenge.

• Usually abrasive scrubs will be too harsh and cause redness. You can try a scrub meant for very sensitive skin and see if your face will tolerate it.  
• Gommage, one of my favorite Yonka products, is a non-abrasive gel that does a great job of exfoliating.
• There are also enzyme peels that can rid dead cell buildup.

If the scrub you’re using feels too harsh, try mixing 1/2 scrub with 1/2 cleanser and perhaps this will be a bit more soothing.

Along with exfoliation, you need to use a good moisturizer to ensure your skin stays well-hydrated all day long. During chemotherapy it is doubtful you will have many problems with breakout, so you may be able to use heavier moisturizers that might otherwise cause problems.

Normally I don’t recommend products with ingredients that are derived from petroleum. This is because they have a large molecular structure and sit on the surface of the skin, usually causing congestion along with possible breakout. In this case, while taking chemotherapy, some of these heavier moisturizers may be what you need to get your skin feeling hydrated. To most rules there are exceptions, and this is one of those exceptions. If your normal moisturizer just isn’t doing the trick, opt for a cream that will get the job done—which may be a product containing petroleum. 

Chapped lips can also become a problem while on chemotherapy. Keeping them coated with a non-petroleum lip balm—at all times—is sometimes the only thing you can do to keep your lips somewhat hydrated. Chapped lips can sometimes be a persistent problem.

While on chemotherapy you will probably go through periods of feeling tired with low energy. Why not get a facial? In the tranquil environment of the facial room, you can take care of yourself on two levels; you’ll be helping your skin to feel smooth and healthy as well as helping yourself to relax on a deep level. I have given many facials to women who are in the middle of chemotherapy. I always feel privileged to have the opportunity to create a serene environment while they are fighting the good fight.  

Blessings to all of you on your healing journey.

For more information, see:

• Advanced Steps for Cleansing
• Kiss Chapped Lips Goodbye!
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? 
• What IS Gommage?
• Where to look for a great facial

True-Dry Skin explained

What is true-dry skin? True-dry skin is a term I coined to make a separation between what many people call “dry skin” and truly oil-dry skin. True-dry skin is a condition where your sebaceous (oil) glands are not producing enough oil to lubricate your outer skin. The outer skin is kept moisturized by both water at the surface (and from the air) as well as sebum being excreted from your oil glands. Simply put, true-dry skin does not produce enough oil to keep the outer skin moist.

Why is it dry? The causes can be genetic (one or both parents had true-dry skin), or age-related (many people experience a slow-down in oil production as they age), or for women, menopause. However, many women think just because they are getting older, they will automatically have drier skin, but this is not necessarily the case. Sebaceous activity is not solely determined by age. A women in her late 50s may still be producing adequate amounts of oil, while a 25-year-old can have true-dry skin. Climate can also affect the oil glands. Dry, desert climates can cause the glands to stop or slow down oil production, just as hot climates can cause overstimulation and oilier skin.

What to use on dry skin. True-dry skin needs to be artificially lubricated with moisturizing creams. Since the oil glands are not producing enough oil to keep the skin soft, supple, and well hydrated, you want to keep high-quality moisturizers (for dry skin) on at all times. True-dry skin needs exfoliation as well since any dead cell buildup will make the skin feel even drier. The bottom line is that true-dry skin always needs a lipid or oil-based cream to make up for the lack of natural oil production.

For additional information on true-dry skin as well as surface dehydration, see:

• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?
• Dehydrated Skin explained
• Is your face in need of extra hydration?

Help for dehydrated skin on an airplane

Have you ever wondered what the effects of air travel are on our bodies? Certainly humans were not designed to fly. Our digestive systems, for instance, work in conjunction with the earth’s gravitational pull. So what really happens to the digestive process 30,000 feet up in the sky? Perhaps you’ve even experienced indigestion after taking a flight somewhere. Other than the possibility of bad airplane food and dehydration, isn’t it possible poor digestion comes from the change in altitude? (Unless you fly 1st Class, you aren’t “served” food up in the air anymore, so what you eat is in your control.)

Not only do our inner organs have to adapt to the altitude, but our outermost organ—our skin—seems to take the brunt of all things bad in an airplane as well. Although this environment isn’t ideal for optimum health or healthy skin, there are several things you can do before, during, and after your flight that will do wonders for keeping your skin in tiptop shape and help to make your traveling experience more enjoyable. Follow some or all of the suggestions here and in (2) future blog posts on air travel and you may find your skin (and body) feeling better when you fly.

Curbing dehydration. Dehydration is the number one concern when you are flying. Ask any flight attendant and they will tell you, dry (dehydrated) skin is a chronic problem. Misting your face with water is the best and most immediate way to get moisture to your thirsty skin. You can purchase small Evian® water bottles that spray, or you can make your own. Get a travel-size plastic bottle at your grocery or drug store and fill it with clean, filtered water. I mention clean water because why spray chlorinated tap water on your face? You are trying to improve the conditions for your skin during your flight, not reinforce negative ones.

If you have already put your toner in a spray bottle (something I talk about often and highly recommend), you can use this instead of plain water to mist your face with. Not only will you receive superficial hydrating benefits due to the toner’s high water-content, you will also get the benefits of all the other soothing ingredients from your product. Obviously, if you are using an astringent-type toner that contains alcohol—something I do not recommend—this would not be appropriate to spray on your face. Even the word astringent brings to mind something that would be drying. Small, travel-sized spray bottles are widely available in stores or online.

The next order of business is exfoliation. I will repeat that word over and over again since it is one of the most important things you can do to help your skin survive air travel.

• Getting rid of the dead cell buildup will go a long way to helping your skin retain water, which you lose a lot of when you fly.
• Lessening the dead skin also allows any hydrating products you’ve put on your face do a better job of moisturizing.
• The fewer dead cells a moisturizer has to penetrate, the better it will work, and the more hydrated your skin will feel.
• Finally, while exfoliating improves and refines the texture of your skin, it also increases the blood circulation to your face, bringing out the natural, healthy color of your skin. 

You should consider exfoliating the day of your flight, getting your skin ready for what’s to come. Exfoliating ahead of time will diminish the amount of cell buildup on your face so anything you do to hydrate the skin will be more effective. Less dead cells equals better quality hydration.

You may not have thought of doing this, but if you are on a long flight (I consider long over five hours), you might try exfoliating en route. When I went to Australia several years ago, I was in the bathroom of the plane exfoliating (a couple of times) during the 15-plus hour flight. Although the quarters were cramped, exfoliating helped my skin combat the extreme dryness from the airplane.

I even have a client who exfoliates right at her seat! She always flies first class and her attitude is, “If someone thinks it’s weird, so be it. At least my skin will feel good!” She puts a towel on her lap and does a gommage right then and there on the plane.

I choose to exfoliate in the bathroom, but however or wherever you feel most comfortable doing it, do exfoliate on long (or even short) flights. Your skin will reap the rewards. And if you do it at your seat, you might even strike up an interesting conversation with someone sitting next to you.

I also recommend exfoliating upon arrival at the hotel or wherever you are staying. Obviously you can wait until you are getting ready for bed, but do exfoliate before retiring on the day you reach your destination. Your skin will benefit from getting all the dirt, debris, and unclean air out of your pores along with lessening the dry, dead cells on the surface of your skin. Don’t hesitate—exfoliate!

For some additional insurance to keep your skin hydrated during your flight, try using a hydrating elixir or mask under your moisturizer. An elixir might come in the form of a special oil or serum, which will not only add a lot of moisture to your skin but will also act as a humectant, drawing in moisture from the air.

Elixirs (especially oils) are best used by those of you with normal to dry or true-dry skin. If you have an oilier complexion or problem skin, I would recommend using a gel-type hydrating mask or glycerin product underneath your moisturizer. These will essentially do the same thing as an elixir without adding extra oil to your already oily skin. (Actually, any skin type can use the gel mask or glycerin approach, but oils should only be used by those of you with drier—oil dry—skin types.)

Whether you travel a lot, or even just a little, there are ways to help your skin get through the sometimes rough time it goes through when flying.

For more information, see:

• Dehydrated Skin explained
• Is your face in need of extra hydration?
• Airplanes, travel, and skin care: Help with internal hydration

Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!

The following is a case where knowledge really is power.

A client came in for a facial, complaining of congestion all around her nose and cheeks. She had experienced this for over a year and was unable to get any clear answers as to what might be going on with her skin. During the treatment, I asked what had changed in her life a year or more ago—especially with her skin care routine. She did change skin care products right around then, but she didn’t feel this was the problem.

After looking at her skin, I agreed that it was indeed congested. I really felt it was product-induced rather than a problem with too much oil production. Why? The pores were clogged in a way that just didn’t seem consistent with overproduction of oil from within. Her skin had a spongy quality to it, like it was getting too much moisture. It looked puffy and felt oversaturated.

My client admitted to using too much product when she moisturized and that she’d previously switched to dry skin products. She was doing this because her skin felt “dry,” although she wasn’t oil-dry just dehydrated. These two conditions can feel the same (“My skin feels dry.”) but the treatment, whether for true-dry or dehydrated skin, is not the same. Minus the congestion and current problems, her skin was normal or normal to oily. My recommendations were: 

• Step one: stop using so much product!
• Step two: start using products for combination or normal-to-oily skin (her skin type)
• Step three: exfoliate and use a clay mask as often as possible. Two to three times per week would be a good start, and then once a week after the congestion has diminished

Exfoliating will help remove accumulated surface dead skin that can make skin feel dry. Clay can greatly improve the condition of her pores, helping to clean out the superficial debris and keep her pores from enlarging.

This client did what many people do—she treated her normal to oily dehydrated skin like true-dry skin by over-moisturizing. Understanding the condition of your skin—specifically the oil content of your skin—is crucial to treating it properly.

I see this over and over again: A client like this one thinks because her skin feels dry she actually has true-dry skin. And in many instances that just isn’t the case. Hopefully you’ll read information here and on my website and have a better understanding about the difference between dry and dehydrated skin. Then, after applying this knowledge, you can enjoy the benefits of proper skin care.

My client’s skin, by the way, has dramatically improved. After switching to a more appropriate moisturizer for her actual skin type as well as using less product, the spongy quality to her skin has all but disappeared. And the congestion she was experiencing has been cut in half at least.

This misunderstanding between true-dry skin and dehydration is something that keeps coming up with my clients—and their problem skin. Sometimes (not always, of course) the problem is misinformation. For more information and clarification on this important subject see:

• Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin
• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Determining Skin Type

Problem skin profile: Stephanie—breakouts, stress, moving to a new city & more!

Although this is a client profile from my Dallas days, it’s still a good example of how the different stressors in our lives can play a large part in our state of health, inside and out.

Stephanie moved from San Francisco to Dallas in August. She moved from the sea to a land-locked city where there is a lot of air pollution and humidity. There is not a lot of air circulation in Dallas (certainly not the kind of ocean breeze that the West Coast receives) helping to keep the city air cleaner. Not only was her physical environment different, but emotionally she was going through withdrawals, having left the Northern California coast for a city far from the ocean.

Dallas TX on a bad day

Stephanie was starting a new life in all ways. It is said that the five life events that cause the most stress are marriage or divorce, giving birth, death of a loved one, starting a new job, and moving to a new city. I’d like to add to the list being laid off or fired and going through a chronic illness—either your own or a loved one’s. Whatever the cause, stress creates all kinds of changes in your body (and mind), so stress cannot be dismissed as being a major factor in problem skin.

When Stephanie showed up at one of my seminars, her skin was a mess. She had widespread breakout in the form of pustules (pimples) and papules (hard cysts under the skin) as well as blackheads and dehydration. According to Stephanie, in California her skin was perfect; she rarely had breakouts and never experienced the kind of skin problems that she had now.

Because of the blemishes, Stephanie was doing something that is very common with people experiencing breakout. It is also something that, unfortunately, usually causes more problems. She was putting all kinds of drying agents on her face, from Clearasil® to oxy products, in hopes of getting rid of the spots. She was even using products for dry skin because the other things were drying her skin out. Her thinking was common: treat the breakout topically with products on the market for problem skin. And in essence, she had the right idea. But specifically, she was using the wrong products.

When stress is the biggest factor in a new breakout, until your body adjusts or until the stress is eliminated (which sometimes never happens), the breakouts will probably continue. Breakouts caused by diet are a lot easier to solve than the stress-induced kind. You simply eliminate the cause (certain aggravating foods), and the breakout will diminish in time. If only it were this simple to eliminate stress! And breakouts due to environment are also a big challenge to fix. So Stephanie was facing two of the more difficult types of breakouts to get rid of: stress-induced and environmental.

Clearing up breakouts that are caused by moving to a new city with different water, weather, and air quality will usually come with time. Your body will eventually adjust and hopefully the breakouts will cease or at least diminish. The same is true for stress breakouts. As soon as your body can adjust and when the stress (hopefully) ends or evens out, your skin should adjust back to being normal. How long the body will take to adjust is the big question. When it comes to patience with ourselves and especially our bodies, many times we fail. Unfortunately, we are usually impatient when it comes to allowing our bodies time to adjust to adverse conditions, like illness or injury, moving, or dealing with new and bigger than normal stress.

The program I put Stephanie on consisted of moisturizer for problem skin (not dry skin), gommaging with a gel-peel exfoliator, and clay masking every other day for the first week or two, then 1-2 times each week thereafter. I told her to drink lots of water, take stress reduction classes like yoga or Pilates, cut out sugar (but allow some indulgences), and get facials if she could afford them.

Once Stephanie started using products meant to clear problems in a healing vs. drying way, her skin responded favorably and eventually normalized. And although her skin did clear up, I don’t think Stephanie will ever get used to living away from the ocean.

For more information, see:

• Help for Breakouts
• Problem skin profile: Donna—constipated with problem skin
• Stress + the Pill can = breakouts—a client profile

Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin

Why do you make such a big deal about the difference between dry skin and dehydration?

I am including an email from a client to help explain my position on this very important subject: 

I’ve been meaning to write to you since we met in December because I’ve been so excited about my skin! First, I wanted to say it was so good to meet you! I loved talking with you, and I have to tell you how my skin has improved!!


After we figured out that the dry skin formula was probably the cause of my breakouts, I stopped using that specific moisturizer immediately. The breakouts soon stopped, and my skin started to clear up within a few days! (I was getting a new breakout almost every day.) Now, I might get one small breakout a week, mainly because I started eating sugar again over the holidays. I’ve got to wean myself off again! 

I’m also so thankful I met with you before I was in my cousin’s wedding this past weekend. My skin looked great for pictures, and I was even confident enough not to wear foundation! I will hopefully get down to see you for another facial in the spring and might bring some friends who are dying to meet you. Thanks again for everything!   

This client came into my office and had a lot of “unexplained” congestion. After asking her a series of questions, it was pretty obvious what the problem was: she was using products for dry skin because her skin felt dry even though she didn’t have true-dry skin. This is a big mistake, I assure you. If you have anything other than true-dry skin (skin that emits little to no oil), you can really create a lot of problems using dry skin products. Namely congestion and possibly breakouts. If your skin is producing enough or too much oil and you add oil on top of that, through the use of creams for dry skin for instance, watch out! 

From your point of view, your skin feels dry. It may be flaky and just feels tight. It does make sense that perhaps you need products for dry skin if, that is, you don’t understand the difference between true-dry skin and, what you most likely have—dehydrated skin. I have clients who come in regularly and say their skin is dry when the truth is it is simply dehydrated. And I have taken a number of clients off their dry skin products and helped them have healthier, less oily skin. Just like this client’s comments illustrate, if you are using the wrong products for your skin type, it can have disastrous results.

If you are having problems with your skin, there is a reason. Something is causing the problems. And if you don’t go at the cause, whether it be the dehydration or perhaps breakouts from using dry skin products when you don’t have true-dry skin, the problems will no doubt persist. 

Yesterday, a new client came in for a facial treatment. She had just moved from Southern California to the Boulder area. She was feeling the drying effects of Colorado air plus the deep, cold temperatures of a winter in the mountains. She, too, thought perhaps she needed products for dry skin (true-dry) when in fact she has normal to oily skin that is very dehydrated.

This dry vs. dehydrated skin issue comes up so often in my practice and I will continue to write about it since so many people (even—unfortunately—aestheticians) don’t truly understand the difference between these very different skin conditions. For more clarification, see:

• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?
• True-Dry Skin explained
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!