Product Recommendations: all links so far

product recommendations

• Important comments about my product recommendations (new!)

---

• A 30-something client with sun damage, looking for products and a good facial: Q & A

• A bad book review & product recommendations: My thoughts

• A client with super sensitive skin: The trial & error of finding products (new!)

• A few age-conscious clients looking for product recommendations (new!)

• A reader’s question about different product lines

• A teenager’s skin care routine & questions + a few suggestions

• Is Cetaphil OK to use as my facial cleanser?

• Mid-40s with oily, irritated skin: Questions from someone who has “spent a fortune” on skin care

• Neutrogena On-the-Spot acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide (new!)

• One product for ALL SKIN TYPES: this is simply NOT possible! (new!)

• Premature aging and what to do now

• Product talk with a new client: Helping her with Yonka specifically and her routine in general  (new!)

• Recommendations for a few clients with sensitive skin who are looking for all-in-one type products (new!)

• Sometimes less is more when it comes to skin care (new!)

Also see

• Products—Finding What’s Right: all links so far

• Products—Misc: all links so far

If you are looking for Yonka product recommendations 

• Yonka Product Recommendations: all links so far (new!)

Recommendations for a few clients with sensitive skin who are looking for all-in-one type products

I am looking for a hydrating night cream that will also provide some exfoliation or cell renewal. My skin is reasonably sensitive, so I can’t use retinol products. What would you recommend for face and body?

The conventional approach for this person would be to put her on an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) cream that would both moisturize and have some exfoliating abilities. But conventionally is not the way I would help her. She has already told me her skin is sensitive, so any of the acid products (including AHAs, topical vitamin C, and products with retinol in them) would not be wise for her to use. These types of ingredients will simply further her sensitivities.

I am not a fan of a product having several jobs. I think a moisturizer should moisturize and, in this case, a separate exfoliator would be in order to give this woman the exfoliation and cell renewal she is looking for. Why is it that we want all-in-one products? Because exfoliation is so important to all skin and ages, it is imperative to do this step separately, rather than use a moisturizer with exfoliation capabilities. Those abilities are limited, I assure you.

My recommendation for this person would be to get a good night cream that is appropriate for her particular skin type, and also purchase a good exfoliator that she can use on the sensitive skin she describes. This is where a gel-type peel or gommage comes in handy. It will do an excellent job of getting rid of the dead cells, which also helps to step up cell renewal, while at the same time not irritating her sensitive skin.

My skin seems to be a little red lately on the cheeks. I am 55 years old, so my skin needs some firming abilities and a good moisturizer. Can you give me some ideas?

Do you use AHAs or Retin-A on your skin? The cheek area usually seems to show the signs of capillary damage more so than other parts of our faces. I think this is primarily because when we get flushed, it usually shows up in the cheeks. So be sure not to use AHAs or any other irritating ingredients, including retinols and topical vitamin C products. Also if you get your face in the hot shower water, over time this will definitely cause redness in the cheek area, among other places.

As far as firming, there is nothing short of surgery that will truly lift the skin or firm it up. At 55 you are probably showing the signs of what 55-year-old skin looks like. This may not be consistent with how you want it to look, however.

There really is no cream that will tend to all of the needs of this client. She wants something to help with redness, sagging skin, and hydration. As an aesthetician, I would try to tackle the most prominent problem first. If, for instance, this person really did have a lot of redness, that is where I would concentrate my efforts. Any cream she uses will have moisturizing abilities, but no cream will really be able to firm flaccid skin. I would counsel her on the need to keep hot and cold water off her face and to be aware that sun exposure also affects capillaries, along with alcohol, smoking and caffeine. These can all affect the redness on her cheeks.

If her skin was dehydrated and true-dry and the redness was minimal, I would probably concentrate on having her exfoliate to alleviate any dead cell buildup that may be inhibiting superficial hydration. If her skin was true-dry (oil-dry), I would give her a hydration booster (a glycerin or even oil-based liquid) and an overall good moisturizer for her skin—one that had the capability to help the redness.

It’s not uncommon for people to try and get as much as they can from one product. But when it comes to skin care, especially the facial skin, you always need to start with skin type (how much oil your skin is or isn’t producing) and then look at any other particulars. With this information hopefully you will be able to make informed decisions when it comes to your skin care products.

For more information, see:

• Determining Skin Type 
• One product for ALL SKIN TYPES: this is simply NOT possible!
• Age-appropriate products

A client with super sensitive skin: The trial & error of finding products

I have super sensitive skin and can’t use any products with fragrance. I have avoided using anything for years, and now at 55 I have crepe paper skin (neck, arms, legs). I want to know what to do about it and what products you recommend? Also, what should I use on my face? I’ve been using Cetaphil (cleanser only) on your recommendation and that doesn’t bother me. Finally, what is a derma roller* and should I be using one?
*See link below for my answer to this question.

Since you are so sensitive, you know more than I will about what you can and cannot use from the trial and error you’ve been through. Surely you’re using something to moisturize your face that doesn’t bother it. So really, I’d keep using what you’re using since it isn’t irritating. Hopefully we’ll find something you can add to the moisturizer that will help to give your crepey skin some extra hydration. Hydrating elixirs can be added to your creams to add extra moisture without adding more oil.

As far as your age and the crepey, flaccid skin you are experiencing, this is—I’m sorry to say—not out of the ordinary. Skin thins with age and at 55 you are lucky you’re just now noticing less firm skin. Keeping the skin on your entire body well-hydrated and exfoliated will help to some degree while the natural aging process continues to take hold and do its normal job of breaking things down. Exfoliation especially will help with blood circulation and can bring a healthier look to all skin. But you can’t really change the skin getting thinner with age—unless you go back in time.

You could try a Cetaphil moisturizer for sensitive skin for your face. Since you don’t have problems with their cleanser, perhaps their creams will work for you too. All of these types of products are inert—without active ingredients (like essential oils) that might irritate your super sensitive skin. I think that would be a good starting place.

Try using Cetaphil on your body as well to help keep the dry skin to a minimum. If you aren’t using a body cream each and every time you’re out of water (bath or shower—or even swimming), your skin will look and feel even dryer and have that crepey look.

Many products like Cetaphil have moisturizers for face and body—all in one. Normally I would be against using one cream for everything, but in your case with your super sensitive skin—and especially if you find one that works for you—I would recommend it absolutely.

My primary suggestion for anyone, sensitive skin or not, is The Basics: Cleansing, using a pH balanced toner, and moisturizing. Every day, ideally twice per day. All of your products need to be proper pH in fact. Even though it’s very important to get rid of the dead skin off the surface, with your sensitivities I’d hold off for now until you have products for your Basics routine in place. After that we can look into some exfoliation products that might not (hopefully) irritate your skin.

For more information, see:

• Is Cetaphil OK to use as my facial cleanser?
• pH: all links so far
• “What is a derma-roller and should I be using one?” Questions from clients (coming soon)

Sometimes less is more when it comes to skin care

I have found out that if I do too much for my skin it becomes dry, red, and I get more small pimples. If I do nothing then I occasionally get pimples. What do you recommend?

You may be using products that are actually irritating your skin. Normally when you do extra steps to take care of your skin, it will show this care and look more radiant and healthy. That you are having the opposite experience may reflect poorly on your products, but then again, it may just be how your skin is. I recommend finding a place to get a facial in your area. Then you can have someone take a good look at your skin and give you advice on how best to take care of it. Be sure to take your products in to show the aesthetician. She may have some insight as to the types of products you are using and why you are having such negative results.

Doing “too much” in almost any area can do more harm than good. Too much exercise (especially done incorrectly) can cause injuries. Eating too much food can overload your digestive system and cause anything from indigestion to constipation, weight gain and more. Too much stress? We all know about that! And when it comes to your skin, doing too much may indeed cause problems. But this is especially true—and inevitable—if the products you are using are inappropriate for your skin type and/or meant to “dry things out.”

Your skin will always tell you whether it likes a particular product or not. If you ever feel irritation, burning, or any sort of tingling sensation—and definitely redness upon application, this is your skin telling you it does not accept that particular product. If, just like this emailer, your skin becomes dry and red, it could be an allergic reaction. Even if an allergy is not the case, it is certainly your skin rebelling.

Getting small pimples with overdoing may go along with an allergic reaction. Again, it could just be a simple intolerance to the product being applied. Getting small blemishes with no skin care routine, that is exactly what can happen for sure! Keeping the skin clean—at the very least—is the most important thing you can do, along with keeping your skin hydrated, in order to keep problems from occurring.

I’m not a big believer in doing a lot to your skin nor using dozens of different products every day. If you like doing a lot, then by all means go for it. What I do and what I instruct my clients to do for optimal skin care is fairly basic. I recommend what I term The Basics (daily cleansing, toning, and hydrating) and The Extras (weekly exfoliating and clay masking). I think if you accomplish some or all of those steps you can achieve the healthy skin you’re looking for.

For more information, see:

• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care
• Determining Skin Type 
• Product talk with a new client: Helping her with Yonka specifically and her routine in general

One product for ALL SKIN TYPES: this is simply NOT possible!

No one moisturizer can truly “fit” every skin type

I am using a moisturizing lotion for all skin types. It says that it is “a light, non-greasy, easily absorbed lotion for daily use,” “pH balanced,” “fragrance free,” and “dermatologist tested.” I always thought a lotion was very light, but after I put it on, my face becomes so shiny. Why is that, and should I use oil-free products instead?

My first instinct is that this lotion has mineral oil or some type of petroleum derivative as a top ingredient. These types of products won’t penetrate well because mineral oil tends to sit on the surface of your skin without being absorbed. Technically, I suppose, “lotion” does connote a lighter texture, whereas a “cream” could have a heavier consistency. This might not always be the case, so be careful when choosing products. As an aesthetician, I use the two terms interchangeable. And to confuse matters, Yonka’s toner is called “Lotion.”

“Oil-free” products may have fillers in them that are the same of worse than oils. There is nothing wrong with oil in products, in fact they are necessary ingredients. It’s the type of oils that becomes important when shopping for your skin care products. Rather than oil-free products, I would recommend using creams (or lotions) that contain vegetable oils vs. mineral oil or petroleum. You may not find such an animal at the drug store, but most other places (department stores, health food stores, salons) should provide many choices of mineral oil-free moisturizers.

I recommend this reader try to locate a product for normal to oily or oily skin. Using any product made for all skin types is like saying one size fits all. This may work with a cleanser, since it goes on and comes right off your skin, but when it comes to moisturizers, you definitely want to purchase a product that if for your particular skin type.

That this product is pH balanced and fragrance free is good. Being “dermatologist tested” doesn’t necessarily mean a product will be good or right for your skin. With all the descriptions this lotion had, it just goes to show you that you can’t rely on product packaging. Sometimes you just have to try the product before you know if it will work for you. That’s why I’m a big believer in knowing the return policy of the store where you are purchasing your products.

Unless you have no-problem skin, or in some cases a drier (oil-dry) skin type, using a one-size-fits-all moisturizer will probably not work for you. And if you have oily skin, you will no doubt have the same results as this emailer: your skin will feel oily and greasy because a product for all skin types is really a product for certain skin types only. You just don’t know which type it is for by the label.

For more information, see:

• Oily Skin explained
• Why you want to use a moisturizer
• Mid-40s with oily, irritated skin: Questions from someone who has “spent a fortune” on skin care

Neutrogena On-the-Spot acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide

I found a product from Neutrogena that is a spot treatment for blemishes. Do you know this product, and what are your views?

The product is Neutrogena’s On-the-Spot Acne Treatment. The package says “maximum strength,” and “less irritation, won’t dry out skin” and contains 2.5% benzoyl peroxide. This is far from “maximum strength,” however this lesser percentage of benzoyl peroxide, which is a drying ingredient, is actually preferable to the higher 5% and 10% versions.

Looking at the inactive ingredients, bentonite clay is listed second after water. That means this product is primarily clay along with the benzoyl peroxide. I tried it on a few blemishes, and although I find geranium oil and/or clay mask dotted on my skin helps to diminish the spots more effectively, I did find this product to be OK. It was also without the usual drying effects of higher strength benzoyl peroxide spot treatments.

Note: This Neutrogena product will leave a whitish film wherever it is applied; bentonite clay has an off-white color to it. Dotting other clays can leave anything from a greenish to a brown color, depending on the clay’s color. Essential oils like geranium or lavender will leave no visual sign you are wearing it, just a strong aromatic.

If you have true acne, this type of spot treatment is only going to take you so far. Acne is the external manifestation of internal issues—always concerning hormones but exacerbated by sugar specifically and a poor-quality diet in general. You can’t effectively use an umbrella in a hurricane, but if you choose to use this product hopefully it will help with your infected blemishes.

For more information, see:

• Help for Breakouts
• Trends & fads in skin care
• Mid-40s with oily, irritated skin: Questions from someone who has “spent a fortune” on skin care

A few age-conscious clients looking for product recommendations

I am interested in a night cream. I am 27 and very age conscious, so the product needs to be anti-aging. I have combination skin—dry cheeks and a slightly congested t-zone area with some broken capillaries throughout my skin.

The first thing I would say in response to this email is this person needs to give up the anti-aging concerns, at least at first. Let me reiterate: you need to prioritize how to treat your skin. The first and foremost concern is the amount of oil your skin is producing. This emailer has combination skin, which means that she has a little too much oil production in the common areas of her nose, forehead and chin. Her cheeks probably aren’t truly dry; they may feel that way, but I imagine the skin on her cheeks is normal. She may, however, be even slightly dehydrated, making her skin feel dry where she isn’t as oily.

Starting with normal to oily skin is really where she needs to focus. The concern she has about aging is justified, of course. She is 27 years old and is just at the beginning of seeing the aging process start. What I want to tell her is: just wait! The lines and wrinkles that you may just have inklings of now will deepen with time, no matter what you do (short of cosmetic procedures). Perhaps reading Ageless Beauty—Part I and Part II will help to influence how she perceives the aging process. Starting at this early age, still in her 20s, could really make a difference in the long-term. 

If she was to go to the department store looking for anti-aging products, she would probably leave with things that would cause problems and not help her skin. No doubt “anti-aging” products would contain ingredients for true-dry (oil-dry) skin; ingredients that would work for that type of skin, but on her skin they could increase the congestion she mentioned at best, and at the worst, cause breakout.

Can you see how you can’t get caught up in the marketing words used in skin care products? You must stick to your guns and buy products based on the number one priority: oil or lack of oil produced by your oil glands. If you veer off course, you will be contacting me with a concern about your problem skin, when the cause could be something as simple as using products that aren’t appropriate for your skin type. Even if this person was 55, she still might not need a product that has a lot of oils and emollients. It all would depend on the amount of oil in her pores.

This emailer’s second concern was broken capillaries. This probably causes her skin to be a bit sensitive. But again, she doesn’t necessarily want to buy products specifically for sensitive skin. It all depends on if those same products will work for her normal to oily skin type. Even in the line I sell (Yonka-Paris), many of the products for sensitive skin are better utilized by those who have normal to dry skin. If a client has oily or combination skin and is also sensitive, I will always treat the oil first.

Products—any product—shouldn’t cause irritation or aggravate sensitive skin. So using products for normal to oily or combination skin shouldn’t cause her skin to react. If she can find sensitive skin products that don’t also create more congestion in her pores, great. As always, it will be a trial and error process, no matter whose products you are using.

Based on this young lady’s comments, this is how I would prioritize what she needs to look for in skin care products:

• First, treat the normal to oily skin with skin type appropriate products.
• Second, know what to do and what not to do for the broken capillaries. See Couperose Skin explained (see link below).
• Lastly, if aging—or aging well—is a concern, be armed with knowledge about the truth and the myths of products and procedures in regard to aging.  

She would do well to watch the amount of sun exposure she is accumulating as well as look at her diet to see where she may need some adjustments that could help her body in the short and long run. Aging, first and foremost, is genetic. Premature aging and aging in general is next due to sun exposure (especially overexposure). And diet can create health or dis-ease in our bodies.

Another young lady wrote:

I’ve started noticing a couple of (gasp!) wrinkles around my mouth and eyes. Any suggestions? Yes, I am wearing sunscreen and a hat!

Yes, wrinkles will come, and there is only so much you can do. When you have the first inklings of lines appearing, it may be disconcerting. You’re going from nothing to something. Hopefully, you’ll get used to the lines because they will get deeper with time.

Sun plus time equals aging. This equation is age old and undeniable. Wear sunscreen and sunglasses to prevent excessive squinting; all those things you know to do—do! Eye cream is vital if you aren’t already wearing it daily, and hats are absolutely necessary when in the sun. If you find a good one, let me know—I’m always on the lookout. And exfoliating is crucial to help keep the dead cell buildup off your face, making the lines look less severe.

I’m sorry I don’t have a miracle cure for you. But you can always go to the department store—they are full of miracles! It’ll cost you, and it’s doubtful you’ll see any big results, but they are selling miracles! Decide what is important: how you look or who you are. Miracle cures can be found in someone else’s books, blogs, or products. With me you will get the truth, and the truth is we are all aging every second of every day. How are you going to use your time?

For more information, see:

• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A
• Couperose Skin explained

—not usually in jars of cream, tho

Important comments about my product recommendations

I found your book to be very helpful, and my skin has improved a great deal using your suggestions. However, unless I missed it, you didn’t provide recommendations for what specific product brands to use.

I have written many articles under the category Product Recommendations, and if you have read any of them you will find a common theme: there are not recommendations for name brand products. Although in some cases here and there I do recommend a specific product (usually cleansers), it would be next to impossible for me to know about, have used and researched on my own skin all the thousands of skin care product brands available. However, when it comes to Yonka products, it is there where I hold a great deal of personal and professional experience, and those specific recommendations are peppered throughout this blog, most notably in articles under Yonka product recommendations.

As much as I understand why you want individual product names, my gift to you is to help you understand your skin and about products in general, so you can be armed with knowledge when you go to purchase your products. Sure, it would be great if I would name specific brands, especially inexpensive products, but even then, those products wouldn’t be right for everybody. In Timeless Skin I mentioned a few cleansers by name, then I received emails from several readers who couldn’t use one or both for various reasons.

Throughout my career many people contacted me to purchase the products I sold (Yonka-Paris) but some of my favorite emails have been from those of you who took the information you learned in Timeless Skin and Skin Care A to Z and went out and purchased products (wherever) that ended up helping your skin. Not because of the product line per se, but because you knew what type of products to look for, when to use what, and what ingredients to seek out or avoid. I want to educate you, the consumer, on the finer things to look for and to know about your skin. Then, armed with this information, you can choose what to use. Yes, this can be a daunting task, but I have empirical data (from you!) that proves it can be done.

For more information, see:

• Product talk with a new client: Helping her with Yonka specifically and her routine in general
• A few age-conscious clients looking for product recommendations
• A 30-something client with sun damage, looking for products and a good facial: Q & A

Product talk with a new client: Helping her with Yonka specifically and her routine in general

My acupuncturist speaks very highly of you and Yonka products. She recommended I email you regarding a new skin care regime for my skin. I have dry skin that is prone to blemishes. I was taking Spironolactone* because my skin had really gotten out of control. My dermatologist said it was hormones and the only solid way for clear skin was to block those hormones. The Rx has run out and I haven't gone back for a renewal. I’m interested in a new option and would love to hear from you.
*From Google: Spironolactone is a medication that contains anti-androgen activity. Androgens are male sex hormones, like testosterone. As anti-androgens block the effects of excess male hormones, Spironolactone is often prescribed to sufferers struggling with acne.

First of all, your dermatologist is right: skin issues are hormone driven. Period. Stress can affect your hormones, sugar consumption can affect your hormones, deepening on your age, perimenopause or menopause affects hormone levels. Many things affect your hormones, but it is hormones that cause breakouts. Because that medication is blocking androgen hormones I would truly love for you to find an alternate way to help your breakout and not continue to block anything—hormones or whatever.

It would be helpful for me to know a bit more about you and your skin: What products do you currently use (and what are their functions? ie: cleanser, toner, etc)? To shorten this article, I have included this client’s answers right after my questions.

1. These are the products I currently use: Cetaphil gentle cleanser for all skin types; CeraVe facial moisturizing lotion PM (I use this morning and night); Revitalift intensive overnight mask (I always use at night and sometimes in morning if my skin looks or feels dry; CeraVe Skin renewing Night Cream for extra moisture (sometimes); Revitalization eye cream or CeraVe eye repair cream; Arnica gel on inflamed spots; Clearasil Rapid action treatment cream for blemishes; Bobbi Brown eye make remover (when needed); Tretinoin cream for blocked pores and ’11’ wrinkles between eyes
2. Your age 43
3. Have you had facials and if so, what did the aesthetician(s) say? I have never had a professional facial! Huh, never realized that.
4. Do you pick at your skin? If a blemish has a head I will relieve the pressure but I don’t pick at my skin. 
5. How much sugar do you eat (honestly) in a day? Raw sugar in take: 4-6 tablespoons with 24 oz of coffee; maybe a cookie (regular size, not the kind as big as your head); I don’t drink sodas but I do drink sweet tea made with Splenda (I don’t drink that very often, maybe 1-2 times per week). Of course, the holidays make sweets readily available—I’ll watch my diet more closely and see what I come up with.

Yonka products can definitely help you. However, problems come from the inside. That is just something basic you really need to understand so you don’t look to the outside product world to “heal” your skin issues. And—I know I can help you!

Over the years I've used many products from department store to drugstore. My dermatologist stated the higher priced cleansers aren’t any different then the drugstore products. At times I believe this and at times I don’t. All purchases can be emotionally supported and driven. I’ve started using essential oils and I’m enjoying them a lot. The main factor is their scents, which is very important to me. I’ve been reading your blog and am interested in the dry vs dehydrated debate because I think I am both! 

Right off the bat—4 tablespoons of sugar every day is a lot if you’re sensitive to sugar! Have you read any of my articles on sugar and skin care? If not, you might glean some important information from them. This one is an eye-opener: Sugar in your precious Frappuccinos!

I’ve realized it was 3T with 24 oz of coffee, not 4-6T. However this morning I had 1.5 teaspoon per 8 oz cup and feel like that is change with no real effort. So, yay on that one! Can’t wait to hear your skin care recommendations. Many thanks!

OK, still—3T daily is a lot of sugar if you are sensitive to it. And I’m going to take a wild guess and say that you are! Good for you for lessening without hesitation your intake. Keep that up and see how it goes. Taste-wise, at some point, your sipping experience won’t be satisfying, but if you go slowly it just might work.

When it comes to products, I think Cetaphil is fine to cleanse with. See link below. For a topical blemish treatment, I would start using lavender essential oil on your inflamed spots vs. arnica. Arnica isn’t bad, just not as effective and not an antibacterial like essential oils are.

The creams you’re using are typical for what is available in the retail market. Here are the Yonka products I recommend. Click on the name to go to that product’s blog. I’ve also included a few other articles about the products you may find interesting and/or helpful:

• Is Cetaphil OK to use as my facial cleanser?
• Lotion PNG—use this AM/PM. I would start with this “normal to oily” product vs. the other toner for “dry” (oil-dry) skin. As you are working on lessening blemishes, I feel the dry skin toner might cause problems—for now    
• Yonka toners: Which one should I use? 
• Creme 15—for now, use in AM & PM. I would get through at least one tube of this cream. Using it morning and night it’ll probably take about 2 months. If your skin is significantly better before that and you feel like using a different cream(s), I’ll recommend something else that may have a little more moisture for your 40+ skin. 
• I highly recommend Hydra+ (formerly called Hydralia) if you feel you need more moisture/hydration. Due to your comments, I think you’ll need this product.
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum
• Juvenil is another blemish control product, but since you love essential oils and I have recommended lavender essential oil for a topical treatment for your places, I’ll just leave you the information that’s in the article linked here so you’ll have another product in your arsenal.

I would start there and see how things go after a few weeks. Really, your skin should reflect better health immediately, but I would use the products for a few weeks before making a determination on their effectiveness.

For more information, see:

• Sugar & Skin Problems
• Gaining control of problem skin—important recommendations
• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?

Premature aging and what to do now

I am 36 years old and have lots of sun damage. I’ve had several precancerous moles removed from my body, so I know my face has really gotten it, too. I am starting to notice: deep furrows between my brows (it’s hereditary), large pores on my cheeks and forehead, lines on my forehead, sun (or age) spots on my cheekbones and around my eyes, loss of elasticity around my eyes, a thinning of the skin around my eyes, and these horrible cords are starting to develop on my neck!

I am confused about what to do in the morning. I want to wear sunscreen during the day because of all of my sun damage, but I also want to address my age-related concerns. How many of these products can I combine together? Will putting too many layers on my face start to clog my pores? Would AHA products help with my sun damage? See how confused I am?!

At 36 and already having suspicious places removed, it is obvious this woman has had a lot of sun in her life. With the description of all her “problem” places, I’d say that the sun exposure she’s received so far has indeed caused premature aging. I would have to see her in my salon to make an accurate assessment, but 36 is young to have so much going on.

Since this emailer has already had precancerous growths removed, I would absolutely insist she wear sunscreen every day, rain or shine. There is no point in trying to reverse the signs of aging while at the same time throwing caution to the wind and not inhibiting further damage.

The changes she is noticing in her skin are the signs of aging. Lines deepen, pores may tend to enlarge, and the skin can definitely start to thin. With accelerated aging due to over exposure to the sun, this process, well—accelerates. That means that at 36 years old she may be experiencing aging skin that someone in their late 40s or even 50s may start to show. Sun not only can cause skin cancer, but premature aging as well.

Addressing the age-related problems is not so easy. What I would address is her acceptance policy on the inevitable. I realize that is not what she or any of you want to hear, but that is the truth as I see it. We are all aging on a daily basis, and this emailer is starting to really see the changes that are occurring in this natural process. Of course, she may be experiencing some acceleration in the aging of her skin because of past (and current) sun exposure.

She’s right—if she piles on too many creams to handle all of her concerns, she will probably end up with rebellious skin, which might mean breakouts. My recommendations would be to

• Wear a good sunscreen daily
• The age or sun spots she is complaining about will fade if she keeps direct sunlight off her face, and wearing daily sunscreen will help to a small degree with that as well
• Absolutely use eye cream if she isn’t already
• If pore enlargement is a problem, using a clay mask will at least keep the pores cleaned out (but won’t shrink her pores)

She could go the route of surgery for her neck concerns. A cosmetic surgeon seeing the actual person will be better able to assess the situation. She could use Botox for her furrowing brow and maybe even a peel or laser for her aging concerns. All of these procedures and more are available to all of us if we want to change our appearance. However, this surgical approach is not my approach.

Now in my 56th year, I understand how surprising it can be to look in the mirror and see more rapid changes occurring on and around the face. My philosophy has been and continues to be about accepting the aging process (with grace). Fight if you want to, but choose your battles wisely. You can spend a lot of money either through surgery or expensive products promising to make you look younger. Finding the beauty in the aging process is the route I chose to take time and time again.

For more information, see:

• AGING Gracefully: all links so far 
•  Trends & Fads: all links so far
• Product Recommendations: all links so far

Mid-40s with oily, irritated skin: Questions from someone who has “spent a fortune” on skin care

I have spent a small fortune on skin care products over the past 20 years, most of which didn’t work or agree with my skin. I have tried every major department store line along with many “natural” lines via mail order. I am about ready to give up!

I am 44 years old and have oily skin that is easily irritated. I have large pores, blackheads, and am now getting slightly dry on the surface. My skin never feels comfortable. I have to wear foundation, which I hate. Otherwise as soon as the oil builds up on the surface, my skin becomes reddened and irritated.

I have never felt pretty and have always been very self-conscious about my skin. Although I do experience an occasional pimple, I refuse to use those harsh acne product lines. Can you recommend products that will help to balance and clear my skin? I would love to find a line that I could stick with that I was certain would be beneficial and not harmful to my skin. I really don’t know what to do with my skin.

Unfortunately, these comments are true for many people. If you have problem skin, it may be very difficult for you to find relief in the land of department store products. These types of products are for the masses and don’t necessarily have the capability to deal with real skin problems. Additionally, the people selling the products aren’t necessarily the most knowledgeable when it comes to skin and how to treat it.

I am 44 years old and have oily skin that is easily irritated. I have large pores, blackheads, and am now getting slightly dry on the surface. My skin never feels comfortable. The oiliness and irritation are the most important things to treat with her skin. To reiterate, department store products probably aren’t geared to help this skin type. The dryness she is experiencing may be due to ingredients in her products meant to help with the oil by drying the surface skin out. Again, something I talk about as being a poor way to treat a problem, and consequently, causing her more angst.

I have to wear foundation, which I hate. Otherwise as soon as the oil builds up on the surface, my skin becomes reddened and irritated. I have never felt pretty and have always been very self-conscious about my skin. I’m not sure how foundation is helping her problem although it can certainly be contributing to her problem skin. To me, using a powder would be more appropriate. Powders contain talc and talc helps to absorb oil. Regardless of the past, I truly believe she can get to a place where she feels good about her skin.

Although I do experience an occasional pimple, I refuse to use those harsh acne product lines. This is a smart, intuitive response that I’m glad she is listening to!

Can you recommend products that will help to balance and clear my skin? I would love to find a line that I could stick with that I was certain would be beneficial and not harmful to my skin. I really don’t know what to do with my skin. I would like to know the nature of the irritation. Is it always there or do products incite the irritation to appear? If the sensitivity is being caused by products, try to figure out a common denominator and look for products that don’t have the known irritants in the ingredient list. One way to find out what is causing the sensitivity is to take The 72-Hour Test (link below).

As far as the blackhead problem, doing The Extras (exfoliating along with using a clay mask) at least once per week (two or even three times may be necessary) will go a long way to help your skin stay less congested, which is important to help eliminate blackheads. Foundation, depending on its ingredients, may be furthering your blackhead problem. Since it is sitting on your skin all day, foundation can create not only blackheads but enlargement of the pores too. Using geranium essential oil on the spots (infected blemishes only) will help them to go away faster.

In short, use products for oily skin that don’t have drying ingredients in them. Try using powder instead of foundation. Along with The Basics for your skin type, do The Extras. This program isn’t complicated, it just gets complicated by the enormity of product choices available on the market. Narrow down your choices (using products for your skin type only) to simplify your program.

For more information, see:

• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care
• The Extras—Do more to have healthy skin
• Powder vs. foundation: which is better for my skin?
• Allergic Reactions to Products & The 72-Hour Test

Is Cetaphil OK to use as my facial cleanser?

If you are looking for an inexpensive product that does a good job of cleansing and is the correct pH for your skin, give Cetaphil a try. You can usually find it at any grocery or drug store in America. There is no guarantee that it will work for you, but it’s a good start. It is inactive (synthetic) and doesn’t cause reactions—for most people. That said, I have had several people contact me after trying Cetaphil and reacting to it.

If Cetaphil does not work for you, consider finding pH papers (see links below) so you can test any cleanser on the market to make sure it will be pH balanced at the very least. Cetaphil is certainly not the only cleanser, but it is easy to find and inexpensive, and that is why I continue to recommend it.

I know that you recommend cleansing with Cetaphil, but believe it or not it makes my skin rashy. You also talk about pH balance. Do you have a list of cleansers that you recommend? For some reason I cannot seem to find a cleanser that will get me back to the clear skin I have always had.

This client has heightened sensitivities, evidenced by her inability to use an inert (inactive) product like Cetaphil. Still, I have had several people tell me Cetaphil bothered their skin, and therefore they couldn’t use it. Perhaps in another publication I will indeed list popular and commonly found products, cleansers included, along with a pH test for each one. But for now, I highly recommend purchasing the test papers and finding cleansers you can use based on your own test results. This way you can buy products that are easy for you to find, that you like, and most importantly that are the proper pH. 

With that said, a cleanser is not going to “get you back to the clear skin you have always had.” Clear skin, if you are prone to problems, involves so much more than using an appropriate cleanser. Hormones rule the oil glands and are affected by stress, diet, and your skin care habits. Please read through this blog and if you have them, my books too, to get general as well as specific information about how to truly create healthy skin (—for a lifetime).

Cetaphil does contain sodium lauryl sulfate, which is a soap derivative found in many cleansing products. It is doubtful you will find it in higher-grade milk cleansers, for instance. Although there is nothing inherently wrong with sodium lauryl sulfate*, it is not the best ingredient for the face. If you find you have problems using Cetaphil, it may be this particular ingredient that your skin finds disagreeable. Still, if you are looking for an inexpensive cleanser, Cetaphil is a good choice.

*If you lookup sodium lauryl sulfate you can find alarmist arguments about why you shouldn’t use it. I am not in that camp, but perhaps some of you reading this article disagree with me. In life and especially in skin care, I choose my battles. The use of sodium lauryl sulfate simply is not one of them—for me.

I realize a lot of this article talks about some ill effects of Cetaphil, but in general I have found that most people can use it without issue. When I was writing Timeless Skin I used an entire bottle of Cetaphil, forgoing my normal (and favorite) Yonka cleanser. It took several months to get through the container, and I found Cetaphil to be good at surface cleaning without drying or otherwise adversely affecting my skin. This is why I feel free to recommend it. Give Cetaphil a try and see how it works for you.

For more information, see:

• CLEANSERS 101: What IS a cleanser? What to look for and what NOT to use—updated 
• HOW TO test the pH of your skin care products—DO THIS! (coming soon)
• Here is a cleanser you DON’T want to use on your face!

A reader’s question about different product lines

Recently “Anonymous” left a comment on one of my blog articles. I thought I’d answer the question here. To make it easier for the writing process, I will assume this is from a female reader:

Hello, I like Yonka as well. I also use PCA Skin and some Pevonia. What do you think of these lines? Many friends use Dermalogica, but I think it is too chemically based. What is your opinion? Thanks!

There are hundreds—no—thousands of skin care products available today. Although I happen to be familiar with the products mentioned in this comment, my feelings about skin care products including Yonka are pretty straightforward. So while not specifically commenting on these lines, I will offer my thoughts in general.

In my opinion, the most important thing regarding skin care products is to use them—using something vs. nothing. Obviously what you use and how the products react with your skin is equally important. As this reader mentions, some of her friends use Dermalogica but perhaps that particular product line won’t work for her skin.
 
As a side note, although I don’t have specific recommendations for any of these 3 lines, I do love Dermalogica’s Dermal Clay Cleanser. Before I ever used it, I had been recommending for my clients with problem or oily skin to mix 1/2 clay mask and 1/2 cleanser for an extra strength facial wash. (See link below for Advanced Steps for Cleansing.)

Yonka along with every other product line isn’t for everyone. There is no one product, procedure, or skin care routine that works for every single person. Time, money, and how it works for the skin are some of the considerations when using facial products. What I know for sure is that when I have a client who comes in and doesn’t really have a good, basic skin care regime and they start with just The Basics, each and every person sees a positive difference in their skin.
    

I always recommend Yonka products because they work for many different kinds of skin, and I love them! I have over 30 years of experience with Yonka—personally as well as professionally. That doesn’t mean they are the only game in town, just the only one for me.

As I mention in many of the articles on this blog, trial and error is usually the course you need to take when choosing skin care products. If you go to an aesthetician you trust, more than likely you will use what he or she recommends. Taking a good friend’s recommendation can also be an avenue to finding products that work for you. Still, you’ll have to use them for a period of time to see if they are a good fit for your skin or not.

If you’re interested in the product lines this reader was inquiring about, here are their website links:

• Physician’s Choice of Arizona (PCA)
• Pevonia
• Dermalogica  

For more articles helping you choose products as well as information for your skin care routine, see:

• Advanced Steps for Cleansing
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care
• Yonka-Paris products defined