Monday, January 22, 2018

“I have rosacea—can I still get a facial? And should I?”

I am interested in finding an aesthetician, however, I have rosacea. Could you please tell me how you would treat this if I came in for a facial. 

This potential client has a very good question. And kudos to her for asking first before she booked an appointment. I initially emailed her back and requested a phone conversation. A question like hers is not so easy to answer in a concise manner. Nor did I want to do a cold email vs. having a conversation with her. Obviously she is concerned about how a potential facial professional is going to treat her skin, and I knew if I had an opportunity to actually talk with her I could ease any concerns she had.

One of her first questions is if I would use microdermabrasion on her skin. Apparently she had been to several aestheticians who (mistakenly) thought microderm and rosacea were a good combination. I explained I didn’t have microdermabrasion available, and if I did I certainly wouldn’t use it on a person with rosacea. Nor do I have a steam machine andagainthat would never be recommended for rosacea or in my opinion anyone. Steam produces heat, heat is not good for redness and/or rosacea.

In my facial, there are certain products I won’t use if I have a client with rosacea. Instead of the citrus gel peel I have (Yonka’s Gommage 303), I use one with stinging nettle and other ingredients meant to soothe redness (Gommage 305)*. There are a few mild liquid peels that I won’t put directly on the affected areas where the rosacea is located (Yonka’s MicroPeel and Alpha Exfoliator).

I have several clients with rosacea who come in for regular monthly facials without any problems. If you have rosacea, you can carry on a regular skin care treatment schedule; you just want to take extra care to make sure where you get your facials is helping to calm your skin down rather than causing flare-ups.
*Yonka has discontinued Gommage 303 and rebranded 305, which is now called Gommage Yonka and is the only gommage in the Yonka line now.

As I was explaining how I would treat her skin, I mentioned that in my experience 98% of rosacea clients leave my office looking less red with diminished inflammation. However, there is that remaining 2%. Once in a great while someone with severe redenss or rosacea will have an adverse reaction to the facialas gentle as it is. I wanted to “warn her just in case she was in this small percentile. Although she appreciated the heads up, she and I both felt that since she had had many facials in the past without a worsening of her redness, it was unlikely to happen in her facial with me.

The products I’ve used for over 30 years (Yonka-Paris) are great for even the most sensitive of skins. Contrary to what some think (perhaps people without firsthand experience), essential oils are great for redness and sensitivity. Paula Begoun and others think they cause redness, which they can, but that is not true for all essential oils. In the hands of smart manufacturers and knowledgeable aestheticians essential oils can help with all kinds of skin sensitivities. As you’ll learn from other articles on this blog, in less concentrated forms, essential oils are very soothing for redness as well as being anti-inflammatory agents.

Bottom line: If you have a skin condition, whether it is rosacea, breakout or another issue youre concerned about, please do as this lady did and contact a potential practitioner and ask questions! I always appreciate a prospective client coming to me with their concerns. UsuallyalwaysI can allay their fears and give them information that will help them make the decision to give my facial a try. And usuallyalwaysthey are happy with the results!

For more information, see:

Friday, January 19, 2018

Hair removal Q & A

I have hair above and below my lip and on my chin—yuck! I use a cream remover from Sally Hansen® right now. What do you think?

Instead of using a depilatory cream on your sensitive upper lip area, I recommend trying to lighten that hair with a facial bleaching cream. If the hair bothers you and dying it is not an option, as long as this depilatory cream doesn’t cause irritation on your upper lip (or chin), I guess that is the best option for you. Getting waxed is, of course, a very common practice, but I would use the depilatory cream before I would have those places waxed.

If the hair is really something that bothers you and needs constant attention, you may want to research getting either electrolysis or laser hair removal to eliminate the hair altogether. These are sometimes painful and expensive procedures, but either one can alleviate the need to be concerned about removing the hair once it is permanently removed.

Remember this important point: If you use a depilatory cream or wax the area, you will be taking off all the hair in that area, not just the hair you are concerned with—just like when you shave. In the waxing link below, I give more information on why you may not want to take this route for hair removal.

For more information, see:

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

Ageless or age less?

I ♥ Helen Mirren! A true example of aging gracefullyand beautifully
Ageless or age less?

Depending on where your head is at, you will look at these words and interpret them very differently. You may see the word ageless, and you might see the words age less. Which type are you?

It’s like the famous young lady/old woman perceptual illusionwhere you are shown a picture and the brain switches (or can) from seeing two different women. Some people initially see an old woman’s face with a large bulbous nose. But other viewers see the profile of a much younger, beautiful woman wearing a hat. The picture can mean something different depending on the viewer’s interpretation. And so do the words age and less.

Put together, these two words form a philosophy and a concept of timelessness. It is a graceful term and is truly without ending. Ageless connotes quality and has an almost regalness to it. The words age and less convey the pervasive thought-form of society today. Age less could be the headline in a newspaper article or magazine. Age less could be a new scientific breakthrough to help you defy the effects of time. With ageless there is no time, just beauty.

Take a look and determine how you see and use these words: age and less. I prefer to live my life with ageless beauty vs. trying to age less. It’s semantics, just words, but it can have an impact on your life philosophy and world view.

For more information, see:

Saturday, January 13, 2018

Facial steamers & your skin

I’m using a facial steamer daily to help clear up congestion, and I’m somewhat concerned about what 15 minutes of facial steaming a day might be doing to my skin.

I have been giving facials and taking care of my client’s skin for over 30 years. I have many clients who have asked me the same question. My main problem with these at-home steamers is they require your face to be fairly close to the machine, similar to steaming over a hot pot of water. Because of this close proximity mixed with the heat of the steam, you can cause capillary damage very easily. Using these steamers daily—just don’t do it! Use only once a week if you must.

At-home facial steamers may seem like a great item to have around the house, but my recommendations are this: If you have to use it, put a clay mask on your face and then steam (never steam a bare face), or sell it in your next garage sale.

For more information, see:

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

Yonka’s CREME TEINTEE—tinted suncream: DISCONTINUED

Im not quite sure how I missed this one, but November 2017 Yonka discontinued Creme Teintee. This product joins many that were taken out of the Yonka-Paris skin care line in 2017. I didnt have a lot of clients using this tinted moisturizer, but I did have some who loved it. Like it or not, its time to say goodbye to yet another Yonka product. As of right now, there is no replacement for Creme Teintee.

CREME TEINTEE is a cream that provides a “natural tan.This smooth day cream with natural pigments provides 2-in-1 action: hydrating the epidermis (outer skin) as well as protecting it from low levels of damaging sunlight. Finally, Creme Teintee leaves the complexion glowing with a beautiful golden hue.

Creme Teintee blocks the most harmful UV rays and guards against free radical damage with a powerful antioxidant trio (vitamins A, C, and E). Used over your hydrating cream for normal to dry skin types or as your moisturizer if you have oilier skin, Creme Teintee is a wonderful alternative to foundationleaving your skin hydrated with a sun-kissed glow.

Here is a comment from one of my clients who has used this product for many years:

I love this product! It gives me a bit of a sun-kissed healthy color without the damage of the sun. (This is especially helpful in Chicago, where it is overcast 6 months of the year.) I have been using Creme Teintee every morning for about 10 years. It allows me to skip foundation on all but the most fancy of events.

When Yonka announced it was going to discontinue this product, I asked Carolyn to set aside as much of it as she could. I was thrilled when they decided not to pull Creme Teintee, as it is part of my daily Yonka regimen. [After rumors of this product being discontinued, Yonka halted that process—then decided to take it out after all.]

Essential ingredients:
  • Pumpkin seed oil, cereal germ oil, beeswax, UVB filter—nourishing, protecting 
  • Vitamins A, C, and E—antioxidants that are repairing and help to prevent free radical damage
  • Yonka “Quintessence (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—vitalizing
Directions for use:
  • In the morning after cleansing and toning
  • Apply CREME TEINTEE as your day cream or if you have a drier skin type, apply over your chosen moisturizer. It’s tinted, so it will give your skin an immediate glow
  • For optimum results, use Gommage 303 or 305 once or twice a week before using Creme Teintee

Please be advised that Creme Teintee should not take the place of your regular sunscreen if you are going to be in the sun for any appreciable amount of time. This product does provide UVB protection, but not enough for long-term sun exposure. See link below for other products in the Yonka line with SPF.

For more information, see:

Sunday, January 7, 2018

Yonka’s CREME 11 is leaving—please, hand me a Kleenex

OK, this is getting out of hand!!! Having been a representative for Yonka-Paris for over 3 decades, I find it disappointing to find out so many of these wonderful product are being removed. I just posted the discontinuation of Creme 83. Now Creme 11 is about the bite the dust.

Not only will it not be sold in the retail arena, it will no longer be available to aestheticians to use in facials. This cream, for me as a professional, is a must-have—absolutely. To be without Creme 11 when someone comes to see me who has rosacea, redness, sensitivity of any kind—I just can’t imagine not having this wonderful creme to help ease their symtoms.

Yonka does have a new replacement product coming out in February 2018. It is not available for us to try yet, but as soon as I can get a hold of some, I will give it a go and let you know my thoughts.

Yonka is changing so fast and furiously it leaves me speechless. So many cremes that have been top sellers for decades have now been discontinued and are gone. Because for so long Yonka hasn’t made any changes to the line, I have felt content and secure in my ability to recommend at-home products as well as treat different conditions in my facial room. I can only hope the replacement for Creme 11 (and Creme 83, another effective sensitive skin cream that was recently taken out of the lineup) is as wonderful if not better than these two creams.

I admit, I don’t love many of the replacement products Yonka has come up with. They are pricey compared to the creams they are replacing; I’ll assume the same will be true with the new sensitive skin product(s)—83 and 11 were both in the mid-$50 range. The newer creams from Yonka have many “advanced” ingredients, which does raise the price of manufacturing, however the older versions have been just wonderful for over 30 years.

I will leave the following original post in its entirety to commemorate Creme 11. I just don’t want to erase what I have said about it—yet.

Yonka has come out with a new replacement for Creme 11: Sensitive Masque. Don’t get me started on this horrible name change! Click below to be taken to that product page.

Yonka’s CREME 11—for redness & sensitivity is a wonderful cream for anyone who has sensitive skin, couperose, and even rosacea. All of those skin conditions will generally have redness, something Creme 11 is effective against.

Whenever I meet a new client who has any of the above, I sample Creme 11. It is usually only a matter of days before I hear from the person wanting to come and pick up a tube of this soothing, anti-redness cream.

I highly recommend Creme 11 if you have redness, rosacea, if you’re sensitive to many or all products; I have had great success with this cream. It is best for normal to dry or true-dry skin. (Usually if someone has oily or problem skin—even if its red and sensitive—Creme 15 would be a better choice for them.) Here is a glowing recommendation from a 66-year-old client of mine who just started using this cream to help with sensitivity and redness:

Creme 11 is FANTASTIC. My skin has never been happier or looked better! I never want to be without it. Thank you!

Essential ingredients:
  • Chamomile, arnica, yarrow, German chamomile, horse chestnut, hamamelis, mallow—soothing, calming
  • Cereal germ oils—nourishing
  • St. John’s Wort, horsetail extract (rich in silicon)—regenerating
  • Yonka Quintessence (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—balancing
Directions for use:

In the *morning and/or evening: 
  • After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner 
  • Apply a pea-sized dollop of CREME 11 over face and neck 
  • Then use eye cream

*Although labeled a “night cream,” I have several clients who use Creme 11 morning and evening. I’m not a stickler (or true believer) in day creams being used only for day and night creams only for night. Some people only can afford or simply only want to use one cream morning and night. And in the case of Creme 11, sometimes I want a client with very sensitive skin to use this cream both day and night so their skin can get the anti-inflammatory, healing, and balancing attributes of this cream 24/7.  

For more information, see:

Thursday, January 4, 2018

Yonka’s CREME 83 for sensitive skin: DISCONTINUED

To say another one bites the dust is getting to be a tired phrase lately. Yonka obviously is taking a new direction, getting rid of many of their tried and true (and oldest) moisturizing creams in their line. Creme 83 is the latest casualty.

When I worked at The Spa at the Crescent, it was this cream that enabled us to finally change from an ineffective product line to the wonders of Yonka-Paris. This other line didn’t have a specific product for sensitive skin, so under the auspices of introducing Creme 83 into the treatment room for this skin type as well as selling it to sensitive skin clients, we were able to secure a place for Yonka at The Spa. From there we eventually got rid of the other product line in favor of using Yonka exclusively.

Although that story might be fun to know, it doesn’t help you if you have sensitive skin and have been using Creme 83. Yonka has ensured us that a new sensitive skin alternative will be coming out in the near future.

When I’ve had clients with normal to true-dry skin that is red, irritated, and/or sensitive, Creme 83 was the product I recommended for day and Creme 11 at night. Creme 11 helps to calm redness and doesn’t cause any skin sensitivity while it’s on your skin. It has almost no discernible scent and is also loaded with skin soothing ingredients. However, Creme 11 is also going away very soon, which (don’t get me started) is yet another disappointment.

Although Creme 11 is currently available, it has technically been discontinued. Once Yonka headquarters runs out of stock, this lovely sensitive skin cream will also no longer be available. As mentioned, Yonka is coming out with a new product to replace Creme 83 and Creme 11, but so far there has not been anything to sample. Once I can give it a try, I will relay my thoughts on this replacement cream. To say my fingers are crossed is an understatement.

Creme 11 is no longer available. Yonka has replaced it with SENSITIVE MASQUE:

Yonka’s CREME 83 for sensitive skin that is normal to dry is designed for delicate skin prone to (oil) dryness, this smooth, fast-absorbing cream eases discomfort, softens the epidermis, and provides protection from harsh weather conditions.

When I have a client who has normal to true-dry skin that is red, irritated, and/or sensitive, Creme 83 is the product I recommend for day and Creme 11 at night. Creme 83 helps to calm redness and doesn’t cause any skin sensitivity while it’s on your skin. It has a lovely lavender fragrance and is also loaded with antioxidant and skin soothing ingredients. If you have irritated, red skin give Creme 83 a try. To remind you, true-dry is skin that lacks oil vs. simple dehydration.

Essential ingredients:
  • Calendula extract—soothing    
  • Olive oil, beeswax—nourishing, protecting
  • Vitamins A, C, and E—antioxidants, regenerating
  • Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—vitalizing, balancing

Directions for use:
In the morning:
  • After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
  • Apply a pea-sized dollop of CREME 83 over face and neck 
  • Then use eye cream

Monday, January 1, 2018

BODY: Moisturizing & Hydration

Keeping the skin on your body soft and smooth comes from both exfoliation and moisturizing. If you exfoliate without moisturizing afterward, your skin won’t feel hydrated and may look dry. If you moisturize without exfoliating, you are applying cream over dead cell buildup, lessening the effectiveness of any cream.

There are many different ways to get rid of dead cells on your body, clearing the way for hydration. At the bottom of this article is a link to another post about the different ways you can exfoliate your body (BODY: The many ways to exfoliate). Be sure to read up and incorporate both exfoliating and moisturizing into your daily body care routine.

After exfoliating, the next step in keeping dry, flaky skin from taking over your body is moisturizing. And like I mentioned with scrubs, I use inexpensive lotions on my body as well. Why? Mainly because the area I’m covering is large (compared to my face and neck), so I’ll go through a lot of the product. Plus, the skin on the body is very different than that on the face, and therefore the quality of ingredients (which greatly affects the price) isn’t as important. You certainly can use expensive products, but I find the less expensive brands do a good job when it comes to moisturizing the skin on your body.

The key to keeping dry skin away is to use moisturizer daily after every bath or shower. Remember, tap water is filled with high levels of chlorine; chlorine is extremely drying to the skin (and hair too). In order to combat the drying effects of this chemical, you’ll want to moisturize your skin. This essential step is an easy habit to get into. Once you start remembering to use body cream or oil, your skin will get used to feeling moisturized and you won’t forget to cover it with products.

Body lotions and body oils. Body lotions or creams (I use these two terms interchangeably) are the most common way to keep the skin on your entire body well hydrated. I recommend using a different type of moisturizer for different climates and seasons of the year. In the summer or if you live in a continually warm climate, moisturizing lotions or creams are best. Lotions are usually light in texture and add just enough moisture to the skin without feeling heavy.

In the winter or in cold, drier climates I recommend using body oils. They will be a lot more hydrating, and in cold or dry climates this added layer of oil will most likely be needed. You can use body oils in the summer and creams in the winter, but I find creams aren’t hydrating enough in cold weather, and oils are too heavy in hot weather. Another suggestion is to combine a lotion or cream with an oil and smooth this mixture all over your body. If one alone doesn’t feel right, experiment and come up with what works best for you.

Sometimes you’re told to apply body products on semi-wet skin. The theory is that lotion will lock in any water left on the surface of your skin. However, I find this technique thins out the moisturizer, making it less hydrating. I prefer to towel off completely and apply cream over my dry skin. I do find using body oil on my damp skin is helpful. The oil is thick, and the water droplets help to spread the oil evenly over my skin.

Bath oils. These products are another way to help keep your skin moisturized. After soaking in a tub where you’ve added bath oil, your skin will feel very smooth and well hydrated. They are usually aromatic delights as well—more incense for your home. Simply pour some of the product in your bath water, climb in the tub, and your skin will soak up the oil. As long as they don’t cause irritation due to ingredients that your skin can’t tolerate, bath oils are a good way to lubricate rough, dry skin.

When using bath oils, there are a few things to keep in mind:
  • First and most important, the oil will make the porcelain slippery, so be very careful when you’re getting in and out of the tub. 
  • Then when the water drains out, since some of the oil will be left behind, wipe off any existing oil so an accident doesn’t occur. 
  • Also, any leftover oil will cause an oily bathtub ring. 
  • Because oil floats on the surface of water, you’ll need to splash the parts of your body that aren’t submerged in the bath water. This will ensure that your entire body receives the benefits of the hydrating oil.

Humidifiers. A humidifier helps keep dehydrated and dry skin away. Sleeping with a humidifier lets water vapor permeate the air for as long as you are sleeping. It’s a painless way to get moisture in the air, which will have a positive effect on your skin—all over. You can find these machines just about anywhere: Target, Bed Bath & Beyond, and big box stores, too.

Moisturizing your body doesn’t take much time, it’s simply a matter of incorporating this step into your daily routine. Once you see the results, the few extra minutes you spend taking care of your body will be time well spent.

Quick Tip:

If you don’t have any bath oil, you can use a body oil in the tub instead. Just pour a small amount into the bath (a little goes a long way), hop in, and soak it up. You can also use baby oil or even an oil from your kitchen.

For more information, see: