Facials: all links so far

facials

• To all FACIAL SALONS: I am so sorry! (Covid-19)

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• “8 Secrets Your Aesthetician [perhaps] Won’t Tell You” BUT I WILL!!! (new!)

• A DIY At-Home BACK FACIAL—with a friend’s help of course! (new!)

• Facial frequency: How often should I get a facial?

• Getting rid of BACK BREAKOUT: facials, nutrition, and client questions (new!)

• “I have rosacea—can I still get a facial? And should I?”

• Machines used in facials—are they necessary?

• My facial experience at “Jane’s Salon”

• My facial experience at “Mary’s Salon”

• MYTH: European facials are guaranteed to be A+

• MYTH: Facials make your skin break out

• One facial experience—not a great one

• Real Men Get Facials Too

• To steam or not to steam in a facial treatment

• What to expect in a facial treatment

• Why get a facial? The benefits of a professional facial treatment explained

• Why so many questions, Carolyn?

• Where to look for a great facial

Getting rid of BACK BREAKOUT: facials, nutrition, and client questions

I get a lot of breakout on my back. It is practically impossible for me to reach this area. What can I do to help the problem, and why does my back break out in the first place?

First off, because we are dealing with skin, its location is less relevant than you may think. As long as you are producing infected blemishes, you want to essentially treat them the same no matter where they appear on your body.

When it comes to treating the skin on your back, it can be challenging. But there are ways you can get to that skin, even if you have to employ another person in the process. The answer to why you are breaking out there is the same as if you were having breakouts on your face. Internally something is out of balance, and in my opinion, diet is most likely at the root of the problem.

Watch your sugar intake. As I have written about in many articles, this (sugar) is a common ingredient that can and does cause a lot of problems with skin—namely breakouts. Water is one of the best things for your body. If you aren’t currently drinking enough (or any) water each day, start now to drink more water, which helps to rid toxins from your body. If you sweat a lot, are you able to rinse it off your back? Or does the sweat just sit there on your skin for long periods of time? This can be a source of irritation and potential breakout, especially if you are sweating during workouts. Rinse the sweat off your entire body before it has a chance to dry on the skin. 

If you can afford it, get a back facial at a salon or spa. Call first to be sure they offer this service and if you have the time, go by the establishment and see where you will be receiving the treatment before you even make an appointment. Why? Some facial chairs just don’t translate into good tables for back facials. You want a versatile chair that will ensure your comfort during the process. The salon may have you lie on a massage table, which is fine. Ask them to prop up your feet if that makes you feel more comfortable. They probably have a bolster to put under the tops of your ankles for this very purpose.

If a professional facial is out of the question, I have written a comprehensive article on how to tend to back breakout at home, which also relates to any problem skin you may have on your chest as well (listed below). You can give yourself a back facial, but for obvious reasons much of the surface area of your back will simply be left untreated. You really need another person’s help in order to get to the entire back area. 

What is the most effective way to get rid of acne on the chest and upper back? Do you have any practical tips on how to take care of that area? It seems that it’s easier to take care of acne on the face, but on the chest it’s a lot harder. The only time I can really cleanse in these places is when I take a shower in the AM.

In one way, breakout is breakout. How you’d treat problem skin on your face is just about the same as how you’d handle chest and/or back acne. The biggest difference, of course, is location and simply put—your face is much easier to reach than your back.

As I’ve said over and over again—problem skin, be it acne, simple breakout, or the occasional pimple, is a multifaceted process when it comes to clearing things up. Without evaluating your diet (what you put into your body, both eating and drinking) as well as looking at your age (hormonally, where are you at?) then of course how you are taking care (or not taking care) of your skin—both face and body— on a daily basis, it is doubtful you will be able to tackle the problem skin you are experiencing with much success.

There are many medications to be taken and I have written about that here on this blog. In the case of chest and back acne (true acne, not just occasional breakout), sometimes taking an oral and/or a topical medication is the only way to treat the problem in these locations. I’m definitely an advocate of proper everything else before leaning on mediations, but sometimes doing something short-term (taking a pill) can help jumpstart a new lifestyle program that, if you have acne, will no doubt need to happen.

I understand the frustration with not being able to reach these areas and treat them as easily as you can your face, but give the suggestions in this and other articles on breakout a try, look for that trusted helper, and continue reading on how to treat breakout that will give you more guidelines and helpful hints and will hopefully make it easier for you to have clear skin all over.

For more information, see:

• A DIY At-Home BACK FACIAL—with a friend’s help of course!
• Dermatology, skin care & 2 sets of belief systems
• NO SWEAT: What happens when sweat dries on your skin?
• Geranium (or lavender) essential oil—spot remover for breakouts: How to use it and how NOT to use it

A DIY At-Home BACK FACIAL—with a friend’s help of course!

I have seen articles and videos on giving yourself a back facial. If this is the avenue you want to take, go for it! However, I think you will have a better, more thorough experience if you simply ask a friend for help, perhaps a family member or even your roommate. If there is someone in your life you trust to do a good job, ask them to give you a back facial. You could get a back facial as often as you can find someone to give one to you. Just like any treatment for blemishes on your face, the more kind attention you give problem skin, the better it is for helping the healing process.

Here are some instructions for your back facial treatment:

• After taking a shower to get yourself cleaned off, lay a towel or two down on the floor and lie face down.
• Have your helper use a mild scrub mixed with water on your back. If you have large red and pus-filled blemishes, a scrub is not a good idea. It is important to exfoliate back there, but you certainly don’t want to break open the spots and possibly spread the bacteria to other places on your skin.
• Other than scrubs, a gel-peel (like a gommage) or another type of non-abrasive peel, like a papaya enzyme peel, would be preferable. If you don’t have access to an exfoliant or if it would be inappropriate to use one, just skip to the next step.
• After the scrub (or other exfoliator) is removed, apply a clay mask.
• Usually back breakouts are in the upper region, near the shoulders. If your entire back is broken out, you will probably go through a lot of mask, but it is very helpful to get it on the spots. If you don’t have enough mask to go over the entire area, be sure to dot clay liberally on all the blemishes individually—even if they cover your whole back. If possible, spread the clay over the entire area as mentioned above.

• Ideally you want to keep the mask moist. This way you won’t dry out the outer skin. You can either spray the mask with toner or filtered water. Or, if you are so inclined, your assistant can take tissues and soak them in either toner or water and place them on your skin as a compress where the clay has been applied.
• Leave the mask for 15 minutes or so.
• Then you can either shower to remove the clay or your helper can remove it with a warm (not hot) washcloth. Just be sure not to rub hard or scrub with the washcloth.
• After the mask is cleaned off, I suggest spraying one last application of toner on the area and massaging it in.
• If you have any medications or special products you are using for the blemishes, apply those last. Geranium or lavender essential oil would be a good choice to help treat the individual spots. (Both of these and essential oils in general are written about extensively on this blog. See categories.)

I have one last recommendation: Don’t let your helper pick at your blemishes unless he or she knows how to extract properly. I have heard countless stories of partners who actually relish popping their mate’s spots. I suppose it is just a natural maternal instinct that we have. But if done incorrectly, this process can cause more harm than good. However, some places may need to be extracted.

Please understand, facials, whether for your back or your face, will not eliminate your skin problems completely. Your breakout originates from a systemic imbalance, and treating the symptom (breakout) topically will only go so far. Treating the problem from the outside can and will help it on many levels, but I want to be sure you are also taking steps to figure out the real cause of the problems. Without figuring out the cause of the imbalance along with action taken toward healthier lifestyle habits, no amount of facials, back or otherwise, will fix the problem at hand.

For more information, see:

• Back Breakout—What NOT to Use
• A Note to All Pickers—you know who you are!!! (Please read up on how to do this—if you must—for the best results!)
• Sugar & Skin Problems
• Geranium (or lavender) essential oil—spot remover for breakouts: How to use it and how NOT to use it

Easier said than done

To all FACIAL SALONS: I am so sorry! (Covid-19)

I love that. Stay strong everyone!

Fellow aestheticians and small business owners have been on my mind quite a bit lately for obvious reasons. To say I dodged a bullet because I recently retired isn’t really the truth. As some of you know my home was a total loss in the October 2017 North Bay fires after closing my Boulder salon and moving a few months before, but that is beside the point. I don’t feel like I dodged a bullet, I was ready and willing to close up shop and do a slow glide into retirement. But I am certainly glad I’m not having to deal with this pandemic as a business owner, initially being required to close the doors and then dealing with all of the new regulations being placed on the personal service industry and small (and large) businesses nation- and world-wide.

We’ve all been affected; I lost my “retirement job” walking dogs and am currently out of work. Like so many, I’m able to work, but in my case everyone is home with their animals (lucky animals!). It’s a loss, for sure, but it is nothing in comparison to those of you who are struggling to keep your salons and spas alive. Having run my business for 24 years, I am well aware of all the hills and mountains that need to be climbed—sometimes daily—to keep a business afloat. Add to that being willing but unable to open due to restrictions in place where you live and work, it’s just such a sad state of affairs. (As of 9/2020 businesses in California where both the server and client cannot wear masks are still unable to open. That means all facial salons!)

Because I still hold facial licenses in 4 different states, I get emails from each state commissioner about the new rules and regulations for opening a salon back up—if that’s even possible—and how things won’t be going back to “normal” any time soon. I’m not a fan of the phrase the new normal, but in this instance I think it’s the only way to describe what will come out of this after all is said and done. There will be a new way of getting back to a normal way of doing business that simply doesn’t and won’t exactly match the way it was pre-pandemic.

In my salons, clients always thought they were my only client because it was a rarity that 2 people were in my office at the same time. I scheduled things that way intentionally because for me it felt like a best business practice. I loved it when clients would mention they noticed they were the only person in the office from the time they walked in the door to the time they walked out.

Now, with new restrictions, it is inevitable that most if not all clients in salons, be it hair, nails, skin, or waxing—even massage and acupuncture clinics—will feel the same way. Interesting that now this “best business practice” that I employed perhaps won’t feel as good to people since it will be a forced way of doing business. Hopefully there will be clients who like the anonymity and will take comfort in being so well-attended to without distraction.

No one, except perhaps epidemiologists, could have predicted this epidemic and certainly not on the scale it has become here in the U.S. Watching how salons are having to comply with federal and state mandates, opening then closing and waiting to reopen again, I can’t imagine how tough it is for all salon owners and facial employees—without the ability to do your jobs and see the clients that you love. And when you all can reopen, it will be interesting to see how those jobs will have changed and what they will look like going forward.

I was reading an article recently in Allure Magaine online (click here if you’d like to read it) about how facials in particular are being affected by Covid-19. In it, a dermatologist (Dr. Nada Elbuluk) was quoted saying she didn’t think now is a good time to get a skin care treatment. “A facial involves exposure to mucosal sites (eyes, nose, mouth), and prolonged contact between the person giving the facial and the person receiving it. It’s not possible for a person receiving a facial to be wearing a mask so it places that person at higher risk of exposure during the procedure.” How I see it, the risk goes both ways.

I can say for a fact I hated wearing a mask when I was giving facials. The only time I did—and I did it throughout my career—was when a client would come in sick and I had to wear one. I can also say without question that 50% of the time I would still get sick even after wearing a mask and being very careful to clean everything thoroughly once that person had left the office. Because client and aesthetician are essentially sharing air during a facial, I was adamant about people not coming in when they were sick.

Now wearing a mask will be the norm. Perhaps forever, no one knows, and because of this I feel for all of the aestheticians in the world. Maybe others aren’t so annoyed with wearing a mask while giving a facial, but for me these face coverings are hot and they move when you look down so you have to constantly adjust them during the treatment. And along with the muffled conversation while explaining things to a client, wearing a mask gave me a feeling of being removed from the intimacy of the service.

For an extra layer of protection, many if not all facial salons will also employ face shields. Having never given a facial with one but knowing how much I disliked wearing a mask, I can only imagine how strange (and certainly, possibly, uncomfortably hot) it will be for practitioners to be so covered up during a personal service. Necessary—absolutely, comfortable—doubtful.

Wearing thin rubber gloves could also become a part of the aesthetician’s new “uniform.” Yet another way to create a protective barrier between provider and client, yet another way to be once removed from the touch and feel of the wonderful sensory experience (for both giver and receiver) that is a facial treatment. I am so sorry for all of these changes.

From Wikipedia: This too shall pass is a Persian adage translated and used in multiple languages. It reflects on the temporary nature, or ephemerality [lasting for a short time], of the human condition.

Sometimes (always?) when someone dies, you’re not quite sure what to say to the bereaved. With this pandemic I think the same thing is true. This too shall pass, we’ll get through it, it’ll be over one day, be thankful for all the good in your life. I don’t know if anything said can really help the multitudes of people who are suffering through these times, but what I do know is life—eventually—will get back to a familiar, albeit different, “normal” place.

Another quote from the Dalai Lama keeps coming to mind: If a problem can be solved, there’s no need to worry, and if it can’t be solved, worry is of no use. It’s similar to The Serenity Prayer by Reinhold Niebuhr: God, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, courage to change the things I can, and wisdom to know the difference.

Blessings to all everywhere and also to those who have passed away during this pandemic. My heart and thoughts go out to all of you.

For some hopefully helpful articles, see:

• The Webs We Weave
• Axioms for Life
• HEADSPACE: Get your meditation on (they have a one-year-free special for those who are currently unemployed)

Absolutely!

“8 Secrets Your Aesthetician [perhaps] Won’t Tell You” BUT I WILL!!!

I found an article on “secrets” your aesthetician won’t necessarily tell you online one day. I thought I’d take each one and give my 2¢ for what it’s worth. Are these all really secrets? It’s a matter of opinion, but many of the items here are simply common sense to me. As you will see I agree with a few things but disagree with others. I thought going through this list might be helpful to those wanting to know more about not just finding a facial salon but also things to think about when you’re talking with your aesthetician. Click on the title to be taken to the article 8 Secrets Your Esthetician Won’t Tell You by Sarah Carrillo.

1) We can scar your face

As Snyder* mentioned earlier, not all estheticians are thoroughly trained on extractions and other potentially scar-inducing procedures. If you leave the salon with irritated or scarred skin, that means your esthetician messed up and used products or techniques that weren’t right for you. The bottom line: Ask about your facialist’s training or get recommendations from friends before you lay down on the table. 

*Arielle Snyder is the aesthetician who was interviewed for the 8 Secrets article.

Unfortunately, I agree with her comments that in most cases, aestheticians do not receive sufficient training on how to do extractions correctly. I’m not sure how helpful it is to find out the training your facial person has had. I received almost no training at the skin care school I attended, yet if I do say so myself, I’m a master of my trade and over the years have become proficient with extractions. Many of my clients have told me horror stories about their past experiences and how happy they are to have me doing their extractions now. As I’ve written about in other articles, getting facials from a brand new aesthetician has its downsides. Upsides, too, but it can take years of giving facials before you are truly exceptional working with skin—especially doing manual extractions.

As far as scarring goes, I suppose anyone (including you!) who is working on your face could cause a scar if they aren’t being careful or just aren’t aware of possible damage they could be doing. In all the years I’ve been working giving facials I can’t actually remember anyone coming in who was “scarred” by another aesthetician. I have had facials where the person was going way too hard with extractions and I just said “stop please.” If it doesn’t feel right (it never feels good), listen to yourself and ask them to bypass the extractions for now. If you really need extractions it might be time to find another aesthetician.

2) You can get the same results at home
Well, almost. Snyder points out, “Human touch is extremely healing, so there’s nothing like having a good esthetician work on you.” But, she also concedes, with the right tools and guidance you can do an at-home facial and get great results.

She says that while most of her clients come in every four to eight weeks, others only come in every few months or even once a year. They can get away with this by doing things right at home. 
“If you have a proper routine going at home and do your own mask treatments, you don’t need to come in that often,” Synder says. 

Although I agree you can achieve similar results at home if using good products and procedures, there is nothing like having someone else do all the work for you. Whether getting monthly facials or just once or twice a year, treating yourself to your favorite facial is an important part of self care—if, of course, you love facials. Doing your own nails or massaging your calves may get you similar results as going to a nail salon or massage therapist, I do believe that putting yourself in the hands of a competent professional has far-reaching results that you cannot duplicate at home. In my facial there are a few products that aren’t sold to the public and make a big difference in my clients skin, steps that can’t be done at home. I would say if you are the type of person who is dedicated to doing The Extras along with your Basics routine you can achieve similar results but definitely not the same effects of having regular facial treatments.

3) You can ignore our sales pitches
A good esthetician will want to set you up with the right at-home routine, so don’t be surprised when she recommends products. Snyder points out that estheticians do a lot of research on the product lines they use, and you might as well use that knowledge to your advantage. But at no point should you feel pressure to buy, Snyder says. “I don’t pressure anyone to buy anything, the decision is completely theirs! But a good at-home program is crucial in caring for your skin.”



I agree wholeheartedly. I am not a sales person, I let the products I sell do all the work. I always send first-time clients home with samples of what they could purchase from the line of products I sell (Yonka-Paris). In the privacy of their own home, clients can see the results they (hopefully) get from using high-quality skin care.

I’ve always said I “sell” like I prefer to be “sold”—hands off! I don’t like being followed around in a store by a sales person trying to pressure me into something I’m not interested in and I treat my clients the same way. I let the products and my facials do the talking, and although I educate my clients as best I can, even then if they don’t seem interested I back off. No one likes to be pushed into anything.

4) We love popping pimples, but we aren’t taught how to do it
“I can’t speak on behalf of all estheticians, but I personally enjoy ’popping pimples,’ or what we professionally call extractions,” Snyder says. However, she points out that extractions aren’t taught in detail at most schools, which means some estheticians aren’t well trained in the skill. She says it’s up to individual estheticians to get additional training on this—particularly if they’re just starting out—so it’s worth asking your facialist if she’s well trained before she starts popping. 

I can say emphatically I am not one of those people who love to “pop pimples.” I even dislike that phrase! I do extractions and I do them well because they are an integral part of a proper facial treatment—as long as they are needed. But it is true that students aren’t really given much information on how to perform extractions. As I mentioned above, finding out about someone’s training is not necessarily going to tell the whole story. And even if you are going to a fledgling aesthetician, she may already be proficient with extractions, although that’s somewhat doubtful. At the same time, you could be getting a facial from someone who has been working for 10 years and still may not be “good at extractions.” I do agree with the second half of this “secret” and that’s unfortunate since extractions are a part of the facial where skill is essential.

5) Never trust a zitty esthetician
You know the saying “never trust a skinny chef”? Well, the same goes for estheticians. “If it is evident that the esthetician herself has exceptionally bad skin, it speaks to how she takes care of herself—so how can she take good care of you?” Snyder says.

I have to respectfully disagree with the above statements. A “skinny chef” certainly doesn’t connote a “bad chef” in my book. But it is certainly true that if your aesthetician wears a lot of makeup you really can’t ever see her skin. It is not an indictment if someone likes to wear makeup, but I think covering your skin up if you’re giving facials is a mistake. You want to instill confidence in your clients and one sure way is to don beautiful, healthy skin with little or no makeup covering it up.

With that said, I realize there are people giving facials that have problems with their skin. Not every professional knows all the “right” information to help clear up even their own skin conditions. For myself, whenever I had a sugar breakout (earlier in my career—in my 20s and 30s) I would always show and tell my clients about it because I could then educate them on the dos and don’ts when it comes to sugar and other things that make skin break out. Also if I was having a “bad period” breakout—again, another chance to impart knowledge. So for me, although I stopped wearing any makeup (even lipstick!) in 1990, covering up skin problems would have been a lost opportunity in terms of talking about it with a client. And as far as a “zitty esthetician” goes, perhaps have a conversation with her and see if she is “untrustworthy” or simply working on healing her problem skin.

6) We know if you’ve been picking
If you’ve been going to town on that zit with your dirty fingernails (in your car), your esthetician will notice the disgusting results—even if she doesn’t give you a guilt trip. “Usually it is evident by scabbing or infected sores [the clients] have created,” Snyder says.

I can’t speak for any other aestheticians, but I definitely can tell when someone has “picked” at their skin. I once had a client say I could tell what kind of car she drove by looking at her skin! She obviously meant that I can see all when it comes to someones face and specifically their skin. Unless the person doing the “picking” is really good at it and does it correctly (see link below), self-extraction by a non-professional is quite obvious.

7) You don’t actually need that peel or microdermabrasion
Snyder says she often has clients insisting on a “really strong peel,” microdermabrasion, or a trendy treatment they read about in a magazine. For most people—and especially anyone with sensitive skin—these treatments aren’t necessary. 
The lesson here: Find an esthetician you trust, and listen to what she recommends.

Finding someone you trust is essential of course. It’s your face we’re talking about here so trust is key. But I will say this as well: go to more than one aesthetician. Sometimes seeing what another facialist does (or doesn’t) do will guide you as to who to see on a regular basis. Give a few people a try for information-sake. You may like the products one uses better than another; you may like certain techniques better; you may decide to see more than one aesthetician ongoing, which is totally fine. If you’re unsure about your caretaker, give others a try to give you better perspective.

When it comes to strong peels and the like, my views are well-documented in many articles on this blog. And as far as “add on” products and procedures once the facial has started—I am totally against that practice!

8) You won’t see immediate results

Sad, but true: Facials won’t give you instant gratification like Botox or Juvederm, Snyder says. So are you blowing $80 or more on an hour of mere relaxation? Not quite. “Over time, clients who invest in facials and proper skin care find that they age gracefully and more naturally without requiring so many nips and tucks.” So basically, think of it as a way to pay now and save on fillers—or even more drastic measures—later.

I couldn’t disagree more! At least I disagree when it comes to Yonka facials—or perhaps just my Yonka facial. Most first-time clients are amazed at how good their skin looks after the treatment. It’s never a guarantee, but facials certainly can give you immediate results. 

I will say there is a definite quality to a client’s skin who has been coming in on a monthly basis for years. Sometimes I will see a client in my office for the first time who has been getting regular facials for a long time. I can see it as plain as day—softer, smoother texture and an unmistakeable quality that says “I take care of my skin.”

Every aesthetician is different; I have very specific views on taking care of skin based on my 3-decades plus career. Find someone you like as a person and who is a qualified professional, someone who is very good at her job. In the end the choices are all yours when it comes to your skin and who is going to take care of it. As a side note: I don’t feel that any of the above are true secrets, but still good information for you to have when looking for a facial salon to frequent.

And for any male aestheticians reading this, I say it at the beginning of my books and I’ve said it on this blogsite: When I call aestheticians (or clients) she and her it is simply to avoid the awkward he/she, him/her grammar. I appreciate any and all who call themselves aestheticians!

For more information, see:

• What to expect in a facial treatment
• Are you addicted to picking at your skin? If so—please read this!
• Aesthetician no nos (upcoming)

My facial experience at “Jane’s Salon”

Whenever I move to a new city or town, I like to get facials in all the hot spots from those who would soon be my “competitors.” I actually don’t see other aestheticians as competition per se; we are all so individual both in personality and ability along with the products we use and sell, there really is no competition. I suppose if there was a great Yonka aesthetician working in an office next door to me I would have some reservations, but short of that I don’t feel competitive.

In my quest to do some research, I wanted to get facials from a few big-wigs to see what residents of my new location had been exposed to. I went into my exploration with high hopes—really; I wanted there to be great facials here in town. If for no other reason than I could get regular facials on my off days!

I’m not going to name names here. My point in publishing this information is not to bash fellow business owners; I want to give you my experiences with different facials—supposedly top notch facials—to show you what can happen even when you are going to the best. This all, of course, is my opinion and my opinion only.

I have certain likes and dislikes—as a client—going into a facial. And I cannot extricate myself from being an aesthetician when I get facials, either. I offer my clients the types of treatments and education that I personally would want if I was a layperson. Therefore all of this colors my opinions and decisions about what is a good facial and what isn’t. Because of the not naming names, I will call this aesthetician “Jane” from “Jane’s Salon.”

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Jane was knowledgeable and explained everything thoroughly in her broken English. At Jane’s Salon they have add-ons, something I’m not a fan of. I signed up for a particular facial, and with all the add-ons, I could have gone into debt. The extras were $25-$45 to start with. To her credit, Jane didn’t push me into anything, but there is certainly a lot of opportunity to spend big bucks at Jane’s Salon.

As I have done in other facial critiques, I didn’t write too much about the facial procedure itself in this article, and I wish I had. With this particular facial I had more opinions about how I felt more than what was done—such as:

• I liked the art mural in the facial room and the robes and slippers that were supplied.
• I was cold throughout the treatment, even though I did speak up and more blankets were applied.
• There was a constant and annoying chirping noise, which made it impossible to relax. The noise was coming from one of the facial machines, I was told.

After the actual treatment was over, a “facial finisher” came into the room to give me a hand massage; perhaps she was an intern. This lady said my skin looked amazing—yet it was dark in the room, as I mentioned to her. “I have a trained eye,” was her response. I inquired about a few ingredients in the products the salon sold, and she got flustered and left the room.

Over all, it was a sub-par experience. I’d rate it a 4 out of 10—not too good. It was a $99 facial with an additional $30 since I requested Jane herself. $129 total. It was interesting for me as an aesthetician, but disappointing for me and my skin as a client. If I didn’t understand the world of skin care like I do, I think this facial would have been confusing for me. Lots of machines, lots of foreign skin care talk. Oh, well. I’ll keep looking for the next best thing.

I actually wrote at the beginning of my notes (notes I jot down in my car after a facial treatment—otherwise I’ll forget): “Oy vey! My skin feels like I want to wash it after the facial treatment.” This, unfortunately, is a common experience. I have felt that way after many facials and I have heard from clients feeling the same way. This, by the way, is not how your skin should feel after a facial!

This salon is right next door to a popular hotel, so I’m sure they get a lot of business from out-of-towners who come in once while they’re in town and never come back to the salon. For the client, I would imagine even if it was a so-so facial, it’s of no major consequence since they probably won’t be back in town to get another treatment any time soon. That doesn’t excuse a sub-par treatment, but it does explain how someone can stay in business.

For more information, see:

• Where to look for a great facial
• One facial experience—not a great one
• My facial experience at “Mary’s Salon”

“I have rosacea—can I still get a facial? And should I?”

I am interested in finding an aesthetician, however, I have rosacea. Could you please tell me how you would treat this if I came in for a facial. 

This potential client has a very good question. And kudos to her for asking first before she booked an appointment. I initially emailed her back and requested a phone conversation. A question like hers is not so easy to answer in a concise manner. Nor did I want to do a cold email vs. having a conversation with her. Obviously she is concerned about how a potential facial professional is going to treat her skin, and I knew if I had an opportunity to actually talk with her I could ease any concerns she had.

One of her first questions is if I would use microdermabrasion on her skin. Apparently she had been to several aestheticians who (mistakenly) thought microderm and rosacea were a good combination. I explained I didn’t have microdermabrasion available, and if I did I certainly wouldn’t use it on a person with rosacea. Nor do I have a steam machine and—again—that would never be recommended for rosacea or in my opinion anyone. Steam produces heat, heat is not good for redness and/or rosacea.

In my facial, there are certain products I won’t use if I have a client with rosacea. Instead of the citrus gel peel I have (Yonka’s Gommage 303), I use one with stinging nettle and other ingredients meant to soothe redness (Gommage 305)*. There are a few mild liquid peels that I won’t put directly on the affected areas where the rosacea is located (Yonka’s MicroPeel and Alpha Exfoliator).

I have several clients with rosacea who come in for regular monthly facials without any problems. If you have rosacea, you can carry on a regular skin care treatment schedule; you just want to take extra care to make sure where you get your facials is helping to calm your skin down rather than causing flare-ups.
*Yonka has discontinued Gommage 303 and rebranded 305, which is now called Gommage Yonka and is the only gommage in the Yonka line now.

As I was explaining how I would treat her skin, I mentioned that in my experience 98% of rosacea clients leave my office looking less red with diminished inflammation. However, there is that remaining 2%. Once in a great while someone with severe redenss or rosacea will have an adverse reaction to the facial—as gentle as it is. I wanted to “warn” her just in case she was in this small percentile. Although she appreciated the heads up, she and I both felt that since she had had many facials in the past without a worsening of her redness, it was unlikely to happen in her facial with me.

The products I’ve used for over 30 years (Yonka-Paris) are great for even the most sensitive of skins. Contrary to what some think (perhaps people without firsthand experience), essential oils are great for redness and sensitivity. Paula Begoun and others think they cause redness, which they can, but that is not true for all essential oils. In the hands of smart manufacturers and knowledgeable aestheticians essential oils can help with all kinds of skin sensitivities. As you’ll learn from other articles on this blog, in less concentrated forms, essential oils are very soothing for redness as well as being anti-inflammatory agents.

Bottom line: If you have a skin condition, whether it is rosacea, breakout or another issue you’re concerned about, please do as this lady did and contact a potential practitioner and ask questions! I always appreciate a prospective client coming to me with their concerns. Usually—always—I can allay their fears and give them information that will help them make the decision to give my facial a try. And usually—always—they are happy with the results!

For more information, see:

• Sensitive Skin: Q & A
• Treating Rosacea: Eliminate? Control? Fix? Cure?
• Rosacea Q & As

My facial experience at “Mary’s Salon”

When I first move to a new city where I plan to open a skin care office, I like to find out about the top facial salons—the best places to get a facial treatment in that particular area. Sure, I like to know what the competition is like, but more so I want to know what my future clients have had available to them skin care-wise compared to what I offer.

The following is one experience I had when I moved to a new city where I eventually opened a Carolyn Ash Skin Care salon. I offer this information because knowing what to look for—and what to look out for—can be helpful when getting a facial. These are my experiences and my opinions, they may not be yours. Some of the things I don’t like in a facial may be one or more of your personal favorites. For obvious reasons, I am using alternate names for this salon as well as the aesthetician who gave me this facial treatment.

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I was introduced to “Mary” and I immediately liked her. She had a pleasant demeanor and was very direct. She had been working in skin care in one form or another for 25 years and seemed to know her stuff. She started out in electrolisis (hair removal), moved on to permanent makeup, then skin care and facials currently. By the way, Mary owned the salon, although she also had a few aestheticians on staff.

I appreciated the time she was taking to greet me and introduce herself. I found out we have similar philosophies about skin care even though she didn’t know I was in her same field. (As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I generally don’t announce I am an aesthetician when getting a facial. Not because I want to spy but because in the past, when I have let aestheticians know, invariably there is a lot of shop talk. Whether I’m getting a facial for pleasure or research, I don’t want to talk about the business. And in this case, I simply wanted to see how Mary's facials were for an average client coming into her salon.)

Mary wore heavy makeup and foundation so I never got to see what her skin really looked like. I understand many people like to cover their so-called facial flaws (or some people simply like to wear makeup), but in this context I think it’s a negative—not being able to see the skin of your skin care consultant. If the aesthetician you’re going to for advice doesn’t have “good” skin, then will she really be able to help if you have issues now or in the future?

First, there was a very long form to fill out with many questions I believe she should answer regarding my capillaries, skin condition, and so on. With over 30 years of clients coming to see me, a very small percentage actually know what a capillary is! I certainly don’t want them answering questions about their skin, capillaries included, that are answers I, the professional, will find out for myself accurately and from experience once I have taken a look at their skin.

After introductions and filling out the long form, there was a 45-minute consultation face-to-face with Mary. She took lots of photos of my face, then, which I liked, she did an ultra violet light test. This shows sun damage on the surface of the skin along with how oily your skin may or may not be. I thought this particular step was a high-value service being offered. Probably every person who sees the results from one of these tests about the amount of sun damage they have acquired will be shocked. Any sun exposure equals some form of damage to the tissue. Whether it’s superficial or deep down damage, ultra violet light causes disturbances to the skin.

Next, I was led into the treatment room. The facial bed was OK on the comfort scale. I’ve been in more comfortable chairs in the past, but at the same time I’ve also had very uncomfortable beds when getting facials. This particular one was just in the middle. The room was kind of blah without much personality. Sometimes this is a plus; I’ve been in facial rooms that were overdone or decorated in a way that wasn’t soothing to me. Still, this room lacked oomph.

One thing I noticed immediately—there was no music. This might be a personal preference, but as an aesthetician I wouldn’t dream of giving a facial without relaxing music playing in the background. Music, if it’s the right kind, can make a huge difference in the comfort and relaxation level of every client. Without music, the client will be focusing on every sound the practitioner makes, including her breathing. The absence of music was a big negative to me.

After cleansing my skin, she introduced a facial scrub. This particular product was way too abrasive for my skin, probably because she used a rotary facial brush as well. As an aesthetician, you really can’t tell how a scrub is affecting a client’s skin sensitivity, and the clean up (removing every single little particle) is next to impossible. Luckily I have Yonka’s Gommage along with other liquid exfoliators available to use in my facials vs. having to suffer through using (and removing) a messy scrub.

She then pointed the steam machine toward my face. I am not a fan of steam at all. I have written several articles about why this is the case (one is listed below), but the bottom line is—I don’t want steam on my face! However, when getting a facial from an unknown aesthetician, I like to just let them do what they do, therefore I did let her steam my face for several minutes. She left the room, so I turned the machine off early, otherwise I would have asked her to remove it from my face.

Next came the endless extractions. In a word: OUCH! Her technique made the extractions so painful, and because she was relentless in her quest, this process made me want to jump out of the chair and get away! Then she started extractions in my ears. Although I actually did appreciate her thoroughness (not many facialists will look in the ears let alone extract them), again—ouch!

Extractions certainly aren’t ever the “fun” part of a facial, but I can only hope that all of my clients could say that the extractions in my facial were less painful than elsewhere. I certainly know they are less painful than from Mary (sorry, Mary)!

Now it was time for the facial massage. Ah, finally some relaxation! Unfortunately, I was not impressed. If the practitioner you go to doesn’t have a good “touch,” the massage stage of a facial loses an important opportunity to thoroughly relax you. Since I was the client here, I was so disappointed to not receive a wonderful massage. I was not only not relaxed, I was left wanting more.

After massaging, she applied a gel-type hydration mask. Hopefully whatever she used was meant to calm down my no-doubt ravaged and inflammed face after all of those extractions. I believe a clay mask is the best thing for the skin bar none. It helps to soothe redenss and takes away inflammation along with other attributes. I have many articles about the benefits of clay masks—for all skin types, not just problem skin. It is my preferred mask almost 100% of the time.

There were more machines used on my skin, then some quiet time when Mary stepped out of the room. This facial (and I imagine all treatments from this salon) utilized so many machines, which I personally find unnerving. As you can read in the article listed below, I am not a fan of using machines nor having them used on me in facials. Mary used high frequency, galvanic, a brush machine, steam, and spray toner. These were things we used and were trained on in skin care school. It was disappointing to see them all used here.

At the end of the facial, I was happy my skin didn’t feel oily, which is something that happens all too often. After many facials, I can be found wiping the heavy, oily creams off my face after a treatment. Although my skin wasn’t greasy after this facial, it did look a bit ravaged and red.

My general feeling was the whole facial felt disconnected from me, the client. Mary was just going over the steps of the treatment, but it didn’t have heart. Steps without soul. Oddly our interaction started off with a lot of connection and interaction, so I was surprised the facial left me wanting. I left the salon feeling very confident in what I have to offer and disappointed in the treatment I received. But I didn’t need the ego boost—I was looking to see what potential clients of this city were getting facial-wise.

I was also hoping I would find an excellent treatment that I could get routinely (monthly) as I recommend to my clients. Although I can do most of my facial steps at home, it’s never the same—just like giving yourself a massage. It is oh, so much better when someone else is doing all the work for you.

I will continue to look for a good or dare I say great facial. In the meantime I will continue to relay my experiences to you here so perhaps you can glean something that will help you when it comes time to find a place to get a facial treatment.

For more information, see:

• Why get a facial? The benefits of a professional facial treatment explained
• What to expect in a facial treatment
• Where to look for a great facial
• Machines used in facials—are they necessary?