much cleanser am I supposed to use? Enough so my face is white and then
massage it in until I can’t see it or just a small amount? Is it
supposed to lather?
much cleanser to use will depend on a few things. First, how big your
face is and second, how much you prefer to use. Practically speaking, if
you use too much, you’re just wasting product. Conversely, if you don’t
use enough, you probably aren’t getting a good cleanse.
So what’s too much? Honestly, I think you will just
know—it will probably feel like you are rubbing cleanser on cleanser
rather than cleanser onto skin. If you use too much, it will just feel
like you have too much product to work with. And using too little product?
you don’t use enough, you won’t be able to spread the product across
your face, leaving many places unwashed.
Using too little may cause the
cleanser to almost absorb into the skin like a moisturizer.
A cleansing product
is meant to remove surface debris from the skin, not to penetrate like a
moisturizer. And you really don’t want to massage it in until you can’t
see it. In fact, if you have massaged the product in too long or
perhaps used too little, the cleanser may have gone into your skin. In
this case, I would “bring it up” by adding a little water to it with
your hands, then splash-rinse to remove.
find that using about a half dollar-sized dollop of cleanser is enough,
but you want to use an adequate amount in order to cover your entire
face. The product I use has a pump, and I use about two to three pumps
for each cleansing. If it doesn’t feel like enough once I’ve gotten it
on my face, I’ll just add another pump or two. Sometimes just adding a
little bit of water makes the cleanser go further. Just don’t water it
down so much that it can’t clean your skin.
and see. The main thing is to use enough to enable you to spread the
cleanser over your entire face and neck. To cleanse, simply apply the
cleanser, massage for a few seconds, splash-rinse, and then towel dry.
cleansers generally do not lather. Gel-type cleansers and most soaps
will lather, depending on the sulfates in the ingredients. (Sulfates
make soaps soapy.)
I decided to have myself filmed giving my signature skin care treatment just before I closed up my Boulder location (6/2017) and retired from giving facials. I continued my mail order business for another year before retiring from the skin care industry altogether at the end of May 2018.
I had my facial videotaped because I wanted to let any aestheticians who might be interested see how I gave my facials and if there is any information to glean from the video—great. And for those of you who were my facial clients, I thought you might be curious about what and how I was doing each step during your facial treatments with me.
My normal facial was anywhere from 60 minutes to an hour and 15 minutes. This video is under 45 minutes so most of my movements are a bit faster and at the least abbreviated. Therefore each step has as little time in between as possible (again, for the video only), so your experience during an actual facial was surely more relaxing and definitely took more time.
Many thanks to my wonderful, long-term client Brooke who agreed without hesitation to be the model for this project, which was literally the very last facial I gave, ending my 33+ year career.
For any of you interested in seeing a video of my facial treatment, CLICK HERE to watch it on YouTube.
Time Resist Creme Nuit (Night Cream: nuit means night in French)
As you may have already read in Time Resist Creme Jour and the general overview More new products from Yonka-Paris: TIME RESIST Day & Night Creams (both links below), I don’t have a ton of experience with TIME RESIST. I do have my opinions and I have already stated them in those posts, but I can say this without reservation: if my skin care salon was still operational, I very much doubt I would be selling a lot of these creams. Call me old-fashioned but I simply like—no love—so many of the “old” Yonka creams, and I have yet to be a big fan of their new launches in the past many years.
I also find it difficult to sell creams that are almost twice as expensive as others in the line (Time Resist right now is $122 per jar; many other “older” Yonka creams are $50-$80) and may or may not do “better” with a client’s skin. Perhaps I’m just not a great sales person. But I am a truth-teller. I have yet to be able to explain cogently to a client why something 2x as pricey is really that much better than a lower priced cream they may already use and have loved for years. This is exactly the way I feel! I don’t want to tear away from what I love.
Still, the benefits of the Time Resist creams looks exciting on paper for sure. I was leaving my business just as these creams were coming out so I don’t have real client-based critiques and as I’ve said, I had an intolerance to something in both the day and night versions so couldn’t really give them a long-term try myself.
Now that I’m heading toward the end of my career in skin care, you all will have to forge ahead on your own. Not in terms of general information on how to take care of your skin, but specifically on these or any other new Yonka creams that come out past my retirement.
Give these creams a try and see what you think. Let me know if you’re willing so I can post some actual user comments. The ingredients in Time Resist cannot be denied for their technological and innovative nature. We’ll just have to see if these stand the test of time like so many other wonderful Yonka creams.
From Yonka headquarters: At night, the skin launches its restoring program to fight the damage built up during the day. Euglena gracilis and silk tree extracts, combined with youth activators, help replenish and re-energize your skin. The TIME RESIST night cream reduces signs of tiredness and refines skin… For a fresh feel as soon as you wake up! Aging is a part of the natural life cycle, which is predetermined at birth. Aging skin reveals the effects of time passing and the skin can thin, wrinkle, and loose its density and radiance. External factors (pollution, smoking, alcohol, sun, etc.) speed up these phenomena. The TIME RESIST duo is therefore a precious ally for your skin: it provides it with advanced natural ingredient technology that neutralizes the effects of these external factors: controlling the visible signs of aging.
At the heart of these velvety and hydrating formulas is an all-new synergy that combines new-generation plant-based stem cells with the anti-inflamm'aging Youth Energy lipoaminoacid, to uphold your skin's youth. At night, the Euglena gracilis and silk tree extracts replenish and revitalize your skin so it appears firm and fresh upon wakening.
In time, wrinkles are visibly smoothed, skin is plumped, signs of tiredness are diminished and your complexion is much brighter.
Sacha inchi oil, euglena gracilis extract, silk tree extract—anti-fatigue, smoothing
Directions for use:
In the evening:
After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
Apply TIME RESIST Creme Nuit over face and neck
Then useyour favorite Yonka eye cream
Discover a new application gesture with the touch & slide airless jar. it delivers the right dose of cream by pressing down once on the cap. This economic innovation is safe and maintains the beautiful aromatic pleasures of Yon-Ka products.
TIME RESIST Creme Jour (Day Cream: jour means day in French)
These new Yonka products came out just as I was about to close my skin care salon in Boulder and move out of state. I went to my last product information class in 2018 with Time Resist products as the headliner.
As you can read in my post linked below (More new products from Yonka-Paris: TIME RESIST Day & Night Creams, which is an overview of these products in general), I’m not a huge fan of jars, even though there is a reason Yonka strayed from their decades-long use of tubes and opted to start using air-tight jars.
I have tried these creams (both day and night versions) and found I have a sensitivity to one or more of the ingredients. My eyes simply couldn’t handle something in these creams so I gave them away to a client to use and to get a critique from (something I never received!).
My point is: I don’t have a lot of experience with Time Resist. From the seminar I attended and reading what I can find about them, these creams pack a powerful punch of new technological ingredients and although they are pricey, I recommend giving them a try if you are looking for the latest in anti-aging products.
From Yonka headquarters:During the day, your skin faces a number of aggressions. It needs a cream that can protect it while making it more beautiful. In addition to youth activator ingredients, the TIME RESIST Day Cream is also enriched in filling spheres and hyaluronic acid, to smooth skin and restore its bounce.
Aging is a part of the natural life cycle, which is predetermined at birth. Aging skin reveals the effects of time passing and the skin can thin, wrinkle, and loose its density and radiance. External factors (pollution, smoking, alcohol, sun, etc.) speed up these phenomena.
The TIME RESIST duo is therefore a precious ally for your skin: it provides it with advanced natural ingredient technology that neutralizes the effects of these external factors: controlling the visible signs of aging. At the heart of these velvety and hydrating formulas is an all-new synergy that combines new-generation plant-based stem cells with the anti-inflamm'aging Youth Energy lipoaminoacid, to uphold your skin's youth. Protected throughout the entire day, technologically advanced microspheres enriched with hyaluronic acid visibly smooth wrinkles and give the skin more bounce. In time, wrinkles are visibly smoothed, skin is plumped, signs of tiredness are diminished and your complexion is much brighter.
Plant-based Saponaria Pumila stem cells, Youth Energy lipoaminoacid, wakame extract—youth activating, redensifying (I’m not sure I even know what that means!)
We tend to worry about our hands (the tops of our hands) long after the damage has occurred, which makes this area one of The Forgotten Places. If you’re young, start now to take care of your hands, so they will reflect this care when you’re older. And even if you are older and haven’t taken very good care of this area, it’s never too late to start. Your skin will always reflect the care you give it. Here are a few suggestions.
First, whenever you exfoliate your face and neck, exfoliate the tops of your hands. It’s a small area, so it doesn’t take much time (or product), but getting rid of the dead cells here will go a long way in keeping your hands looking youthful and feeling smooth.
Next, after you have applied moisturizer to your face and neck, smooth any excess product on your hands. If they are chronically dry, apply a special hand cream or the cream you’re using on your body before you go to bed. Try to apply it as often as you can throughout the day as well.
Another suggestion is to wear gloves. They can really help to keep the tops of your hands hydrated as well as protected from the elements. I have clients who sleep with gloves on to ensure an overnight moisturizing effect. Rubber gloves are great if your hands are in water a lot or even a little. Wear them while doing the dishes or any other time your hands will be immersed in water. Driving with gloves on will help keep the damaging sun off your hands. Wearing gloves in cold weather will go a long way toward protecting the tops of the hands from damage, not only from the sun, but also from the dry, cold air.
Finally, wearing sunscreen on the tops of your hands is important. When applying sunscreen to your face and/or body, don’t forget the tops of your hands.
Unlike many drugs, before getting a prescription for Accutane, several
requirements must be met. Why? Because Accutane carries with it
significant risks. For male patients, the concerns are fewer. But for
females, the potential for severe birth defects is probably the number
one concern while on this medication. Because of this, no female patient
is allowed to begin Accutane therapy if she is currently pregnant (no
matter how far along) and definitely no pregnancies should occur while a
woman is taking this potentially harmful medication.
is strict monitoring for pregnancy during these treatments. Any female
about to take Accutane must first take one, and in some cases two,
pregnancy tests to ensure there is no possibility of a birth before
going on this drug.
a female patient is or might become sexually active during the course
of treatment, she is required to:
use two different forms of birth
control at least one month prior to treatment
throughout the entire
course of treatment
and then for at least one month following the
discontinuation of Accutane treatment
Regardless of sexual activity,
female patients must take birth control pills for the duration of
treatment. There are even strict policies that require a negative
pregnancy test before a female patient can pick up her next month’s
supply of Accutane at the pharmacy.
formal consent form must be signed before initiating treatment with
this drug. It mentions the obvious and most notable potential for severe
birth defects and the patient’s agreement to take birth control for the
duration of treatment. It also goes into great detail about depression
and the possible signs of a depressive mental state while on Accutane.
Please continue to read about Accutane use to help you understand the risks (and possible benefits) associated with taking this powerful drug. For more information, see:
Here is a fun radio show interview I did with Beth Aldrich and Dan Balth on their weekly radio show: Conversations with Beth and Dan. It was recorded in 2006 in Chicago, Illinois.
I had a lot of fun talking with them about skin care and related subjects; I hope you enjoy listening to us!
CLICK HERE to listen to the show on youtube (duration 22:27).
Conversations with Beth and Dan is a co-production of the Men's Media Network and For Her Information Media. Executive producers are Beth Aldridge and Dan Balth. Produced and directed by Andy Metran in Metran Studio Chicago. Copyright 2006, all rights reserved.
Dry skin, or what I call true-dry (oil-dry) skin, is a condition where your sebaceous (oil) glands are not producing enough oil to lubricate your outer skin. The outer skin is kept moisturized by both water at the surface (and from the air) as well as sebum being excreted from your oil glands. Simply put, true-dry skin does not produce enough oil to keep the outer skin moist.
True-dry skin needs to be artificially lubricated with moisturizing creams, so you want to keep high-quality moisturizers on at all times. True-dry skin needs exfoliation as well since any dead cell buildup will make the skin feel even drier.
True-dry skin can be a frustrating condition, especially if you are not using products that are moisturizing enough. Once your skin stops producing enough oil to keep the surface of your face moisturized, tightness and perhaps even flakiness can be a part of your everyday life.
I’m not a soap lover, but someone with true-dry skin really should avoid soap at all costs. This alkaline product will just make your already dry skin feel drier. Many gel cleansers have a foaming action, and these can also be too drying if you have dry skin. The best cleansers to use are cream washes or milk cleansers. These generally will not strip your skin and shouldn’t leave your face feeling dry after cleansing.
Always use a toner—without alcohol, of course! I recommend finding one with moisturizing ingredients in it, like glycerin. And your moisturizers (day and night creams) should have quality vegetal oils in them that will ensure a good all-day or all-night hydration for your oil-deficient skin.
Note: If you don’t have true-dry skin, none of the above recommendation are for you! Even if your skin feels dry. Dry skin—true-dry—simply doesn’t produce enough oil to lubricate the skin’s surface and therefore needs special products to super-hydrate and moisturize.
I recently purchased some products for dry skin as well as an oil-based serum for hydration. I have been mixing a drop of the serum with the moisturizers and have even tried using the night cream during the day. I have also been exfoliating and using a glycerin-based toner for dry skin. My skin is still very dry and flaky. I have been using Ponds® cream during the day and Vaseline® at night. A dermatologist told me to use the Vaseline, and it worked pretty well, but my pores stayed clogged.
Instead of putting one drop of the serum into your creams, try putting five or so drops on your face before applying your creams. In other words, cleanse, tone, apply five or more drops of serum to your entire face, massage the oil in, and then apply your day or night cream over that. And if you feel like you need it, go ahead and add some of the oil to your moisturizers as well. If you are using a glycerin-based serum or even a vegetable oil-based product, these shouldn’t cause you to become clogged (as long as you have true-dry skin).
Vaseline and anything else that has a high concentration of petroleum will usually clog the pores. These substances have a large molecular structure and aren’t able to penetrate the skin. They remain on the surface as occlusive covers. This not only can clog the pores, but it also inhibits your skin’s natural elimination and absorption action.
If you think you have dry skin because it feels dry but you still have oil-based problems (most notably breakout and/or blackheads), there are numerous articles on this blog detailing dehydrated skin along with many other skin conditions. Without accurate information, you might make mistakes when picking out products for your skin.
As an aesthetician, my main focus is the skin on the face. Throughout my career I have also stressed the
importance of treating your neck tissue the same as your face. I also
talk about the tops of the hands, an area that receives a lot of sun
throughout our lives. But there are other areas that I call The Forgotten Places
that you will want to pay attention to.
Along with the neck and hands,
these sometimes neglected places consist of the décolleté (the area above the breasts or chest and below the neck), the ears, the eyes (eye area), the elbows,
and balding heads. The skin all over our bodyages, not just on the
face, so read the articles (listed below with links) to learn more about what to do for these all important yet forgotten places.
caring for The Forgotten Places, there are three main things you’ll
want to keep in mind. They apply to your body as a whole, but in the
forgotten places blog posts, you’ll be concentrating on those places you
tend to forget. These three steps include using sunscreen, exfoliating on a regular basis, and using a moisturizer or hydrating cream. If you start caring for The Forgotten Places now by incorporating these three steps, you can enjoy healthy, well cared for skin all over.
One reason these places look forgotten is because they receive quite a
bit of sun. Sun damage brings with it loose, sagging skin along with
pigmentation spots (also called age, sun, and liver spots), and the
potential for cancer. Start now (it’s never too late) and remember to
include The Forgotten Places when you’re applying sunscreen to your face
Exfoliation. Because exfoliation is so essential to the overall health of your skin,
it is important to exfoliate thoroughly and often in most of The
Forgotten Places. Getting rid of the dead skin buildup will enliven your
skin, making it feel smoother and look healthier.
Finally, extra care needs to be given to The Forgotten Places to ensure
they get adequate hydration, day in and day out. Keeping the skin well-moisturized makes it feel soft and supple, keeping dry and flaky skin
Your skin is alive and responds to care. Any attention you give The
Forgotten Places will be remembered and reflected in the healthy look
and feel of these different spots. With just a few short minutes per day, you can
help to extend the life of these areas and enjoy healthy
Here are all The Forgotten Places that are currently posted: