Saturday, July 4, 2020

Is this rosacea? A client’s questions about her skin and using Yonka products

What is happening with my skin?! I have had this on my cheeks (somewhat less than this usually) for a few months at least. I’m using [Yonka] Juvenil and Creme 15 at night. I was using Optimizer Creme for day but switched to Creme PG. What do you think it is? Maybe I need drugs??

Thank you for sending photos. That is so helpful! Well, it looks like the beginnings (or middle) of rosacea. There is a pink to deep red color, bumpy texture that can look like breakout, and it’s located (high up) on the cheek area. I recommend going to a dermatologist to get confirmation, but from that photo, I’d say it is rosacea.

Have you had the steam machine used in facials by chance? Or do you frequent steam rooms? Do you find that you flush (especially in that cheek area) during exercise? I can say that when I was around 52, I started to show signs of rosacea and I attributed it to hormones once again changing at that time. I am guessing the same might be true for you.

Are you heading into perimenopause?  (This client was nearing 50 when she emailed me.) Have you had any changes in your monthly cycle? Hormone changes that might cause irritability, hot flashes or just all around heat, sensitivityemotionally and body-wise?

Now the question is what to do! Regarding drugs: There are some prescription medications that can be helpful for rosacea if that is indeed what is going on. First, I’d recommend going to your dermatologist and get diagnosed. The doctor can prescribe some things for you or better yet give you some samples to try. There are several topical rosacea medications that may or may not help your symptoms. Some medication and products work for some people, but one size does not fit all when it comes to rosacea.

I wouldn’t use hot water on your skin—ever. If you are a bath person, I highly recommend putting a thickish layer of Creme 15 or Creme PG (or any cream that you know doesn’t irritate your skin) on your cheek areas before going in the bath to protect that skin and keep it from flaring up with the heat. Usually I recommend a clay mask while taking a bath, but with rosacea—because it creates such sensitivity—I wouldn’t use clay, just a sensitive skin moisturizer or hydrating mask that you know doesn’t irritate your skin under normal circumstances.

If it is indeed rosacea, it’s a tricky thing to treat. What works for one person doesn’t for another. As for my own skin, if I eat any sugar, it will cause flareups with my cheeks. Darn it! When I was younger sugar made me breakout, now—I get red cheeks.

If I haven’t adequately answered you, please ask more questions. See your dermatologist, don’t use hot water, and as far as products go Creme 11 is goodbut if you still have oilier skin, Creme 15 is a good second-best choice. (Creme 11 has been discontinued and its replacement is Sensitive Masque—don’t get me started on why in the world Yonka named a moisturizing cream a mask.) I wish I could see you for a facial!

Thanks!! I’m definitely in perimenopause, and the redness definitely gets worse with heat. Yes, I’ve had steam with facials. Can I still use [Yonka] Gommage? Should I use Creme 11 and/or Creme 15 as day creme? I have one new Pamplemouse (the grapefruit cream) as well. Should I set aside the Optimizer Fluid & Creme? Would a light benzoyl peroxide wash help? Thanks! Wish I were there!! 
  • I wouldn’t use a BP washif you don’t have access to the Yonka milk cleanser, I’d use something like Cetaphil, which can usually be used on even the most sensitive skin.
  • Yes to gommaging. That is always good and shouldn’t flareup the redness. Just be watchful as you start massage it off. If that seems irritating, just do all the steps except leave it on a bit longer and rinse it off. Rinsing is not optimal as far as exfoliation benefits, but is perhaps better for the rosacea if the regular sloughing technique irritates your skin or causes excessive redness (something that does not happen under normal, non-rosacea circumstances).
  • No more steam in facials! Your aesthetician may balk at that, but tell her no. I’ve had facialists say “I can’t do extractions without steam,” but that is not true although it may be true for your person, I don’t know. As an example: I’ve never used steam machines since my 1st year in skin care32 years ago. Is your aesthetician a Yonka person? If so, she can definitely do extractions (if you need them) by using a particular Yonka product meant to assist that process: Hydra+ (formerly Hydralia, originally Dermol 1). To be fair, I have had Yonka facials with aestheticians who were not familiar with using Hydra+ prior to  and during extractions. (Such a shame!)
  • I think Optimizer Serum is always a good idea for extra hydration without adding extra oil to the surface of your skin. Anything you’re using is fine as long as you don’t feel irritation and you don’t see redness after application. If Optimizer Serum or anything else does irritate then stop using it. Otherwise, I think all Yonka products are appropriate for your skin. Yes, Creme 11 (now Sensitive Masque) is a good cream for the redness.
  • Pamplemousse, as long as you don’t feel heat upon application or while it’s on your skin, should also be fine. Grapefruit is of course citrus and citrus can cause sensitivity. Let your skin and any redness and/or irritation be your guide.

Same client, different photo
Rosacea is tricky; rosacea is very individual. Having experienced a touch of rosacea firsthand, I can say that it truly has a mind of its own. As with all things body, rosacea, when it flares up, definitely is caused by particular things. For me the heat of a bath and red wine and too much sugar are sure to stir the redness in my cheeks. These are all common triggers for many people. And now, being in menopause, heat of any kind also can cause the redness to appear. Sometimes just being in my office suite that runs on the hot side causes a flareup when I’m there.

Rosacea certainly isn’t the end of the world, but it makes appearances when you least want it to and for sometimes unknown (to you) causes. Like most things in life, the squeaky wheel gets the grease, and so is the case for rosacea.

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