MYTH: European facials are guaranteed to be A+

Europe is known for its product lines. Skin care really began in Europe, as did the utilization of spas, going to the baths, and hydrotherapy. But to characterize something as being European should not be an automatic cinch for a service or person being of high quality in the context of a skin care salon.

Many salons in the US offer European facials. To me, the phrase European facial would indicate a facial given in Europe. I suppose it could be a facial given by a European aesthetician, or perhaps the product that is being used is from Europe. But I really think it’s a meaningless term used to elevate the quality of a facial treatment.

Many times the word European is used to connote some special, sophisticated training. Training is obviously very important, but where the education takes place doesn’t necessarily mean it was or was not good training. Quality depends on many factors. It is the talent of the individual along with education, training, and experience in the field that creates a good aesthetician.

So when a salon says it offers a European facial, ask “What exactly does that mean?” For example, I am an American, trained in America, using French products. Am I giving a European facial?

For more information, see:

• Myths Dispelled: all links so far 
• Where to look for a great facial
• What to expect in a facial treatment

What are razor bumps?

Razor bumps are basically ingrown hairs that have become red and/or infected, otherwise known as pseudofolliculitis barbae. An ingrown hair is where your (usually previously shaved) hair decides to navigate back down into the skin instead of coming out onto the surface. Because these hairs are coarse, they can wreak havoc on the tissue below.

They usually cause red, irritated bumps that resemble blemishes, but they are actually small irritations caused by the ingrown hairs. Once this sensitive tissue meets with a razor, small red bumps (razor bumps) follow. Although ingrown hairs cause inflammation and irritation, there is usually not a bacterial infection present as with true folliculitis. Pseudofolliculitis tends to happen more with curly-haired men, especially African-Americans.

The first course of treatment for ingrown hairs is exfoliation. By exfoliating the outer, dead skin layer, often the hair finds an easier path to the outside. When exfoliating, a gel-type, nonabrasive peel would be preferable to using a scrub. If a scrub is all you have at the moment, don’t get too aggressive with it or you can cause more irritation, but be on the lookout for a gentler, gel-type product.

Give exfoliation a try and see if it solves your ingrown hair problems. If you can, try not shaving so closely with your razor. This can help to alleviate some of the irritation. If nothing seems to work, another option—although maybe not for everyone—is to let your beard grow out.

If you’re having problems with skin irritations around your beard area that won’t go away, it could be true folliculitis. This is a bacterial infection (staphylococcus) in your hair follicles caused by any number of things, even contaminated washcloths. If you think you have folliculitis, you may want to consult your dermatologist, who can prescribe topical or oral antibiotics to get rid of the bacteria present in your skin.

With the following articles, you should be able to start understanding the difference between folliculitis and pseudofolliculitis barbae:

• What is Folliculitis? 
• Ingrown Hair—Men’s Edition: Q & A

For information about exfoliation, see:

• All About Exfoliation
• Yonka’s GOMMAGE—gel exfoliator

Don't be confused. Keep reading to understand the difference between these two frustrating skin conditions.

Anti-aging with Kinerase?

Kinerase is the name for a nonprescription cream that used to only be available from a doctor’s office but can now be found in the retail environment. It is said to help retard the aging process. It utilizes the natural growth hormone in plants called N6- furfuryladenine. It is this plant hormone that helps the leaves stay healthy, moist, and alive. Kinerase is available in both a cream and a lotion; each contain 0.1% of the plant hormone ingredient. The lotion is lighter, for normal to oily skin types; the cream is for true-dry (oil-dry) skin. Kinerase can be used in conjunction with your regular skin care products, as well as with makeup or even sunscreens.

Unlike Retin-A or Renova® or other anti-aging counterparts, this treatment does not (according to most information available) cause redness, irritation, or flaking of the outer skin. In fact, it is often used after peels (whether strong or gentle) to help ease skin irritation or redness that might have occurred.

For the most part, Kinerase is best used on skin that has been damaged by the sun. In clinical studies some improvement has occurred in both wrinkles and pigmentation, although only modestly. It can be used by women who are pregnant or nursing, something some other topical anti-aging products prohibit.

Although I haven’t used this product, the word from my clients who have is that they saw little or no improvement (or detrimental effects) with their skin. They didn’t see any significant changes in their lines and wrinkles, or with the small amount of hyperpigmentation a few of them have on their faces.

I chalk this product up to the ravenous appetite of some consumers and the cosmetic industry as a whole for products that will stop, impede, or otherwise change the most natural act we will go through in life: aging. Out of 24 ingredients listed on the jar, the anti-aging component N6-furfuryladenine was the very last ingredient. Maybe that is enough to affect a change in the skin, but it seems like this is an expensive moisturizer with a little bit of the anti-aging plant hormone in it.

You may want to try this product (as directed) and see if it helps with your pigmentation issues and/or lines and wrinkles you have. Your experience may be different than the experiences I have heard about. I am a big proponent of experimenting, something I like to do. This will give you first-hand experience with whatever you want to find out about—in this case, Kinerase.

For more information, see:

• Trends & fads in skin care 
• Radiance—what makes a woman radiant
• 20 Ways To Keep Your Skin From Aging

Acne and imbalance—What to do

Acne is an exterior sign of internal imbalance. If you have acne, look at your diet, any hormone fluctuations you may be experiencing, and how you are taking care of your skin (or not). All of these have to be in balance in order to control and eventually clear acne.

If you have acne, products and facials—although helpful—are not the sole answer. I believe you must also look to your diet. Please don’t discount the possibility that what you are putting in your mouth is having an effect on your skin. I highly recommend getting in touch with a clinical nutritionist or someone who really understands the relationship between food and skin. I believe you have to go to the source of the problem (in this case, food being a potential contributing factor) rather than merely treating the symptom, which is problem skin. Hormones are the primary cause of skin problems, but food does have a secondary effect.

For those of you with acne, I recommend following The Basics (cleansing, toning, and hydrating with a moisturizer specifically made for problem skin), along with diligent exfoliating with a gel peel (gommage), plus a clay mask. Whenever there are problems with the skin, exfoliating and masking should be done at least two or three times per week.

I also recommend taking a good look at your sugar consumption, something that a lot of people tend to disregard as an issue with skin problems. I can tell you as a practicing aesthetician for more than 30 years and also someone who is sensitive to the sweet stuff, sugar is a major contributor to many peoples’ skin breakouts and also acne. (Although this photo depicts blood sugar issues from sugar, the problems I’m talking about is skin breakouts and oilier skin. But blood sugar issues are certainly caused by ingesting even a little sugar.)

In order to really treat acne, I truly believe you must get your entire house in order. Don’t just look for topical or oral medications from your dermatologist to work miracles on your skin. It really takes a commitment to proper eating habits, a good skin care program, staying away from picking at the skin, and sometimes using prescription topical or oral medications to further reduce the lesions on your face.

I also want to say that if you are a teenager with acne, the element of time is another important component to helping your skin issues to disappear. Sad but true, sometimes you just have to get through the hormone surges your body is going through over time before your skin will clear up. All the other items I’ve talked about in this article will definitely help your skin, so don’t give up!

For more information, see:

• MYTH: Food doesn’t affect skin
• Sugar & Skin Problems  
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care

Yonka-Paris LOTION PNG—Spray toner for normal to oily skin

LOTION PNG is the Yonka toner for normal to oily skin types. This aromatic mist will immediately soothe your soul. With essential oils of thyme, lavender, geranium, cypress, and rosemary your mind will be entranced and your skin will be pH balanced. Used after cleansing, these wonderful aromatic toners can be used throughout the day—whenever you want to have the Yonka Quintessence experience!

This white spray toner has a higher concentration of essential oils than does Lotion PS (for normal to true-dry skin). This makes Lotion PNG better for helping with excess oil production as well as blackheads and breakout. (PNG translates to pour normale à grasse in French; for normal to oil in English.)

This toner is acidic on the pH scale, helping to rebalance your skin after cleansing. Bacteria can’t thrive in an acid environment; your skin is naturally acidic on the pH scale. Using LOTION helps to keep bacteria away while maintaining balance for the oil glands.

Essential ingredients:

• Yonka’s “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)

• Thyme (Spain)—antiseptic 
• Lavender (Provence)—healing, soothing, stimulates cell metabolism
• Cypress (France)—clarifying
• Geranium (Egypt)—balances oil production
• Rosemary (Morocco)—detoxifying

Directions for use:

After cleansing:

• Spray LOTION over face and neck
• Use your favorite Yonka moisturizer
• Then apply eye cream

Other than using twice daily (after cleansing), this wonderful aromatic toner can be used as often as desired. LOTION makes an excellent aftershave for men; it is very soothing.

Both Yonka spray toners (Lotion PS and Lotion PNG) are truly wonderful. If you are not currently using one, I highly recommend incorporating one of these aromatic spritz toners into your daily Basics routine.

Not sure what toner to use? Please read: 

• Yonka toners: Which one should I use?
• If you use Yonka’s spray toner, please read this for a helpful tip!

For important information on pH and how to test your toner or any skin care product, see:

• Proper pH & your skin care products  
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care