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Friday, February 5, 2016

Fed Up with Chin Hairs?

How can I prevent chin hairs? Why are they starting to grow, and how do I get rid of them?

Chin hair growth usually starts around perimenopause when a woman’s hormone levels are starting to go through yet another change. During this time, estrogen levels start to wane, leaving more testosterone to run wild, creating such things as coarse, dark hair on a woman’s chin. Who said getting older isn’t all fun and games?

You can’t magically prevent chin hairs any more than you can prevent hair on your body from growing. Electrolysis and laser hair removal are two procedures that can help keep hair from coming back once it is treated. Read the posts under hair removal (see link below) on these two procedures to find out how to help get rid of these unwanted hairs. I don’t recommend waxing the area; you will be removing too much innocent hair and may set yourself up for darker hair growth in the area. And tweezing usually winds up in disaster—especially if you are the type of person who doesn’t know when to leave things alone once you’ve gotten started tweezing.

I have seen many clients over the years who are concerned about hair growth on their chin. When I inspect this area, may times I find they have been shaving the hair there. What this does is create a very obvious coarseness to the skin (a razor is too harsh for that delicate skin), and just like the stubble growing out of a man’s face, stubble will result from shaving any area, including your chin. Usually the offending hair is dark, but I have occasionally seen white hair growth on the chin. Whichever color the hair is, it can be coarse and even causing some irritation, neither of which is desirable.

When I find a client who is shaving her chin for this or any reason, I implore her to stop shaving immediately! When you shave an area to get rid of a few (or many) stray hairs, you are indeed shaving off all hair in the area. And contrary to some people’s belief, the hair then has the potential to grow back darker and thicker than it was before. Since it is usually only a few hairs that are growing in the area, you run the risk of stimulating even more hair growth if you shave. Some people are lucky and dark hair doesn’t show up after shaving the chin, but it can affect the skin there as well as affecting all the hair in the area, not just one or two stray problem hairs.

My recommendation is to find a good electrolysis technician and to give this hair removal technique a good try. It would be more expensive than shaving, obviously, but the results could very possibly be long-lasting or permanent. (Laser hair removal for light-colored hair is available, where in the past it was only effective on dark hair.) If you have experienced irritated skin where you have been shaving, this will improve if you stop shaving, and having electrolysis treatments can take care of the reason you were shaving in the first place.

When shaving (and waxing as well), you are getting rid of so many unoffensive hairs in the process of removing the few bad ones. I recommend looking into electrolysis or laser hair removal before using these other, less effective and potentially harmful procedures.

For more information, see:
Ladies, pleasedon't!

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Yonka’s HYDRA+: For Extra Hydration—without adding oil (formerly Hydralia; formerly Dermol)

UPDATE 4/2017:
Yonka has once again changed this product. Hydralia, which was the rebranded Dermol, is now called HYDRA+. It works essentially the same as Hydralia/Dermol.




Does your skin feel tight after you put on your moisturizer? Do you have true-dry skinskin that doesn’t secrete enough oil? Do you have oily skin, but your skin still feels dry? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you might want to consider adding Yonkas HYDRA+ to your skin care routine. 

The main ingredient in this super-hydrating elixir is glycerin. Unlike a true oil, glycerin adds moisture to the skin without leaving your skin feeling oily. Hydra+ can be added to both your day and night cremes, helping to super-hydrate your skin. This product is a must have in winter and a great addition to your program—anytime.

Essential ingredients:

  • PCA, vegetable glycerin, brown algae, lactic and citric acidshydrating 
  • Indian chestnut, raspberry, blackcurrant, vitamin B5soothing 
  • Vitamin Cantioxidant 
  • Magnesiumrevitalizing

Directions for use:

  • Clean your face with your favorite Yonka cleanser  
  • Then spray liberally with your Yonka Lotion toner  
  • Next, add a few squirts (equaling approximately 4-8 drops) of HYDRA+ to whatever cream you are using—both morning and evening  
  • Apply mixture to your face and neck Finish with eye cream
     
    Mixing Hydra+ with your day cream allows your makeup to look fresher and last longer, and you won’t have to worry about dry, flaky skin.

    Enjoy using Hydra+ and say bye bye to dry, dehydrated skin. This one product will make a great addition to your healthy skin care routine.

    For more information on other Yonka products that will help keep your skin hydrated, see:

    Monday, February 1, 2016

    Products and rosacea: What to AVOID

    Trial and, possibly, error...!
    If you have rosacea, when it comes to what products to use on your face, mild is the one word that comes to mind. You want to find non-irritating, mild products to use on your rosacea. You will want to avoid anything that is going to irritate your skin. This may seem like an obvious recommendation, but I still get people who come into my office who don’t heed the most obvious advice. Even if they know they shouldn’t do something, many times they do it anyway. Thus the saying, “Throw caution to the wind.”

    For any of you with rosacea, your daily routine won’t really change; you will still do your cleanse, tone, hydrate (The Basics 1-2-3) program morning and night. What you use will be the biggest trial and error experiment you have had to date. Even if I could give specific product recommendations here, they wouldn’t work for everyone. I know it is frustrating not knowing what to use, and no doubt you have already gone through a lot of different products—hopefully finding some that work for you and your rosacea.

    Soap may be an irritant if you have rosacea. I’m not a very big fan of soap—in fact I’m not a fan at all. I recommend using liquid cleansers (milks and gels) over soap any day—every day. The ingredients that make soap soap are too harsh for the skin on the face, especially if you have a condition like rosacea. In other words: Don’t use soap! (Read MYTH: Soap is a good cleanser, link below.)

    Although I never recommend anyone use products that contain alcohol (the bad kind: SD and ethyl), rosaceans want to be especially careful to avoid this harsh and reaction-causing ingredient. Your toner should not have alcohol in it. Again, this is true for anybody, but especially for those with rosacea. Look for soothing ingredients like allantoin, camomile, and lavender as good ingredients to have in a toner. Some natural-type products may say for sensitive skin, which would be the toner you would naturally reach for, right? But still, look at the ingredients.
    See category toners for more information on this essential step
    The toner for sensitive skin in the Yonka line (Lotion PS) is also for a drier skin type. It contains special ingredients in it to moisturize a true-dry (oil-dry) skin, which would be a disaster for an oilier skin type. So if you tend to have an oilier complexion, you will want to use extra caution when choosing a toner for sensitive skin. If you do end up with a toner that is too much for your skin, take it back and try one for a skin type more closely related to your own. Remember: your skin type is first and foremost based on oil content.

    Moisturizers will vary, and the trial and error method may be what you have to go through in order to find the perfect moisturizer for you. Know that you will want to avoid AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). I would also avoid glycolic peels in a facial, retinoic acid products like Retin-A and Renova, and most vitamin C products, which will probably be irritating to your skin.

    Basically acid compounds, like AHAs, citric, and retonic, will worsen the symptoms of rosacea. Acids tend to dilate and irritate skin they are used on, so avoid them in the products you use. If you get facials, make sure the aesthetician has an awareness about rosacea and how to treat it in a facial.

    For more information, see:

    Saturday, January 30, 2016

    Antioxidant Sources

    Antioxidants are an important component to a healthy body (and therefore healthy skin). Below are some of the antioxidant sources available today. Some in supplement form, others from food sources. Acquainting yourself with where you can find antioxidants for your diet is crucial to keeping your insides functioning on the highest of healthy levels.

    Antioxidants help rid the body of free radicals; free radicals contribute to the destruction of healthy cells. If you are eating a balanced diet with a high fruit and vegetable content, you are probably getting lots of antioxidants. But diets are not so balanced for many people. I’m not a big believer in taking pills, especially using supplements as a way of substituting for a poor diet. However, due to our modern lifestyles and busy schedules, supplementing is not only inevitable, but probably necessary. Here are some of the many supplement sources to add more antioxidants into your diet.

    Alpha lipoic acid and protective are synonymous. A powerful antioxidant, alpha lipoic acid has the ability to actually help regenerate other antioxidants that have been wounded in the process of ridding the body of free radicals. Alpha lipoic acid can also be very helpful in regulating blood sugar levels. This is something that diabetics and people who suffer from hypo- or hyperglycemia may want to know about. I am interested in alpha lipoic acid not only for its antioxidant abilities but also for its benefits with inflammation; both of these factors have an effect on the health of your cells. And as with many of the supplements available in the anti-aging range, anything that increases the health of your body will naturally be reflected in healthier-looking skin.

    Alpha lipoic acid in supplement form is fairly expensive. As an ingredient in skin care products, alpha lipoic acid is outrageously expensive. Even if these products did work wonders for your lines and wrinkles, unless you are well-off financially, you will never be able to afford to keep up this habit. You’ll just have to age with the rest of us and find less expensive ways to keep your skin looking clear, healthy, and if you must, young. I’m still not convinced putting alpha lipoic acid, vitamin C, or any other anti-aging miracle ingredients topically on your skin is truly effective against aging. I prefer to eat my vitamins, whether in food or with supplements.

    There is no RDA (recommended daily allowance) for alpha lipoic acid; recommendations vary from 10mg to 600mg daily. Doses over 100mg might have the effect of lowering blood sugar levels in some individuals, even non-diabetics. I am prone to hypoglycemia so I closely monitored how I felt when I first started experimenting with alpha lipoic acid. When I took 100-200mg per day, I had no adverse reaction in regard to my blood sugar levels.

    Note: Alpha lipoic acid should not be confused with alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 essential fatty acid. They are both beneficial for different reasons.

    Also known as ubiquinone, Coenzyme Q10 (more commonly called CoQ10) has shown signs of rejuvenating brain cells in laboratory animals. There is no conclusive evidence yet to show there is an appreciable difference in the human brain, but tests are underway to bring new information to the forefront. What is known is CoQ10 is a powerful antioxidant. It has been shown to help boost the power of vitamin E in the fatty part of cells. This is the part that can sustain the worst free radical damage. These fatty cells are concentrated in the brain, so taking CoQ10 may help to protect the all-important brain. There is no established dosage for Coenzyme Q10.

    Grape seed extract enjoyed a bit of popularity a few years ago, but has since slipped behind so many of the up and coming antioxidants. Grape seed extract, however, is an excellent source of a complex of antioxidants called OPCs (oligomeric proanthocyanidin complexes). You can take capsules ranging anywhere from 250-1000mg daily. It is the OPCs in red wine that is thought to be good for certain health issues. Grape seed extract is the best all around source for OPCs, so don’t drink wine as your only source for this complex of antioxidants!

    If vitamin C isn’t the best-known antioxidant, surely it is the bestknown vitamin. It started when we were kids, hearing how vitamin C helps to keep the common cold away. In fact Vitamin C and the Common Cold is the title of a wonderful book written by Dr. Linus Pauling. Among many other contributions (both social and scientific), Linus Pauling is perhaps best known by the general public for his research and advocacy of high-dosing vitamin C. This investigative pioneer began ground-breaking research into the value and disease-fighting ability of vitamin C, and lived to the ripe age of 93 (1901-1994). He truly was an example of his research and work in nutritional studies.

    Now we know that vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants. It is helpful with brain function as well as repairing free radical damage. One of the more interesting benefits of vitamin C is its ability to improve the quality as well as the quantity of brain transmissions. Translation: it helps your brain function optimally.

    Vitamin C helps with many other bodily functions. It helps in the production of collagen, which is the supporting structure of your skin. It is the collagen and elastin fibers that break down through sun exposure and the natural aging process, creating lines and wrinkles on our faces as well as flaccid or sagging skin. This antioxidant also helps with bruising as well as the healing of wounds and burns.

    Vitamin C is water-soluble and not manufactured by the body. Therefore, we have to get this antioxidant through our food and/or supplementation. Vitamin C is found in numerous foods you are probably already eating. Because most of this vitamin leaves through the urine, you might consider taking it in supplement form as well.

    Taking anywhere from 500 to 1000 milligrams daily is thought to be sufficient to help protect the brain. Even in large doses, vitamin C doesn’t seem to be toxic. Of course, too much of anything is not a good thing. You will know if you’ve taken too much vitamin C because you’ll get loose bowels or possibly diarrhea. Some people even use high-dosing of vitamin C in order to clean out their colon. If you experience diarrhea, whether you are inducing this type of evacuation or because you are sick, you must also increase your water intake to compensate for the loss of water through these eliminations.

    Vitamin E, sometimes known by the name tocopherol, is an important vitamin if you are interested in your brain having maximum help to ward off free radical invasion. This antioxidant works on the fatty parts of the cells that comprise the brain. Research is increasing to see if vitamin E can help fend off such debilitating brain diseases as Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s.

    You want to take natural vitamin E. How do you know if it’s natural? It will always have a “d” in front of the chemical name, such as d-alpha tocopherol. Tocotrienols are another form of vitamin E, and can be found alone or in the mixed tocopherol supplements. The mixed vitamin E supplements might contain d-alpha as well as d-beta, d-delta, and d-gamma tocopherols. The mixed forms of vitamin E are said to be the best for brain protection. In most of the literature I’ve read, it says taking 400 IUs (international units) of vitamin E is sufficient; taking more, especially over 800 IUs, can get you into trouble. Most notably, it has blood thinning abilities at these higher doses. I would stick with the lower 400 IUs per day, unless instructed otherwise by your health care practitioner.

    The antioxidants you just read about are the most powerful, but certainly not the only ones available. Other antioxidants include:
    • bilberry, an herb
    • cysteine, an amino acid
    • ginkgo biloba, an herb
    • glutathione, a protein
    • green tea 
    • melatonin, a hormone
    • selenium, an enzyme
    • superoxide dismutase, an enzyme
    • vitamin A as well as beta carotene 
    • zinc, a mineral

    However you get antioxidants into your body (through food or supplementation), do be sure you are getting these all-important free radical fighters in your daily diet.

    For more information, see:
     

    Thursday, January 28, 2016

    Yonka for Men: FOAM GEL cleanser

    LOTION YK is a spray toner created by Yonka especially for men that doubles as an aftershave. If you arent using a toner or if your aftershave makes your skin feel sensitive, give *Lotion YK a try.

    *Lotion YK contains a higher percentage of citrus than the other Yonka toners, and for some people too much citrus can cause irritation. If after using Lotion YK your skin feels irritated, please give one of the other spray lotions a try for your toner and aftershave. Several of my male clients who have sensitive, true-dry skin use Lotion PS as their toner and aftershave with great success. Lotion PNG is what someone with a normal to oily skin type would use as a toner and also as an aftershave spray.

    Skin toners seem to be mystifying for a lot of people. Toners are not cleansers, as I explain in MYTH: Toners are the second step in cleansing (link below). Toners are an important step in your daily maintenance routine. They help to superficially hydrate the skin; they balance the skins pH after cleansing, which is very important; and for men, after shaving the face, toners can really help soothe the skin and reduce irritation and inflammation.

    Essential ingredients:
    • Essential oils from citrus (lime, orange, grapefruit and lemon)
    • Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—balancing, revitalizing, purifying

    Directions for use:
    After cleansing:
    • Spray LOTION YK over face and neck before moisturizing
    • Apply Yonka day and/or night treatment cream (moisturizer)

    Other than using twice daily after cleansing and/or after shaving, this wonderful aromatic toner can be used as often as desired