.

.

Saturday, March 19, 2016

A reader’s question about different product lines

Recently “Anonymous” left a comment on one of my blog articles. I thought I’d answer the question here. To make it easier for the writing process, I will assume this is from a female reader:

Hello, I like Yonka as well. I also use PCA Skin and some Pevonia. What do you think of these lines? Many friends use Dermalogica, but I think it is too chemically based. What is your opinion? Thanks!

There are hundredsnothousands of skin care products available today. Although I happen to be familiar with the products mentioned in this comment, my feelings about skin care products including Yonka are pretty straightforward. So while not specifically commenting on these lines, I will offer my thoughts in general.

In my opinion, the most important thing regarding skin care products is to use themusing something vs. nothing. Obviously what you use and how the products react with your skin is equally important. As this reader mentions, some of her friends use Dermalogica but perhaps that particular product line won’t work for her skin.
 
As a side note, although I don’t have specific recommendations for any of these 3 lines, I do love Dermalogica’s Dermal Clay Cleanser. Before I ever used it, I had been recommending for my clients with problem or oily skin to mix 1/2 clay mask and 1/2 cleanser for an extra strength facial wash. (See link below for Advanced Steps for Cleansing.)

Yonka along with every other product line isn’t for everyone. There is no one product, procedure, or skin care routine that works for every single person. Time, money, and how it works for the skin are some of the considerations when using facial products. What I know for sure is that when I have a client who comes in and doesn’t really have a good, basic skin care regime and they start with just The Basics, each and every person sees a positive difference in their skin.
    
I always recommend Yonka products because they work for many different kinds of skin, and I love them! I have over 30 years of experience with Yonkapersonally as well as professionally. That doesn’t mean they are the only game in town, just the only one for me.

As I mention in many of the articles on this blog, trial and error is usually the course you need to take when choosing skin care products. If you go to an aesthetician you trust, more than likely you will use what he or she recommends. Taking a good friends recommendation can also be an avenue to finding products that work for you. Still, youll have to use them for a period of time to see if they are a good fit for your skin or not.

If you’re interested in the product lines this reader was inquiring about, here are their website links:
For more articles helping you choose products as well as information for your skin care routine, see:

Thursday, March 17, 2016

Acidophilus 4-1-1

What is acidophilus? Acidophilus, or technically lactobacillus acidophilus, is the friendly bacteria found in your intestines. These health providers are always present in varying numbers, helping to defend their territory against pathogens and invaders.

There is a balance of friendly and unfriendly bacteria in the colon. This balance is so vital to the health and vitality of your colon that making sure you have enough friendly bacteria is of great importance. This is especially true if you are or have been taking antibiotics. As you will read, antibiotics take a toll on friendly bacteria. In essence, taking acidophilus helps to balance. It helps restore a healthy intestinal environment so jobs like digestion and elimination go smoothly day in, day out.

Acidophilus and antibiotics. Antibiotics, as we all know, are important tools for our health. And just like many things in life, they can also have adverse effects, especially if overused or abused. In some cases colitis, which is essentially inflammation of the bowel, has been linked with taking antibiotics.

For anyone currently taking antibiotics or even if you have just recently been on a round of antibiotics, I highly recommend taking acidophilus. Why? To reinstate and ensure a healthy balance of good bacteria in your colon, which was probably destroyed or in some way altered by the use of antibiotics.



The following is reproduced with permission of The Mc Graw-Hill Companies (1999). It comes from a wonderful little booklet called The Friendly Bacteria: How Lactobacilli and Bifidobacteria Can Transform Your Health, by William H. Lee, R.Ph., Ph.D.

Antibiotics: The Destructive Lifesavers

Antibiotic drugs have a valued and necessary place in therapy, and have been focally instrumental in saving immense numbers of lives. They are an effective emergency measure, destroying disease-producing bacteria in a manner which seemed miraculous to those who first experienced and observed their action. Many diseases, such as pneumonia, which had been at best life-threatening, became routinely curable.

But antibiotic means, literally, “against life.” When the “life” that is destroyed is that of harmful micro-organisms, all well and good. Antibiotics are not selective, though, and, like aerial bombing, are not geared to spare the friendly organisms which inhabit the same space as the hostile ones. After a course of antibiotic treatment, the intestinal flora are severely diminished, the good along with the bad.

At the least, this is likely to cause some digestive upset, anything from diarrhea and flatulence [gas] to severe constipation. As a routine precaution, many people have now learned to add yogurt [plain, not flavored with sugar added] to their diets—making sure that it has live cultures and is not pasteurized—after such treatment, or to take a guaranteed high-potency supplement of acidophilus or bifidobacteria.

An upset stomach* is not the worst result of the destruction of your population of friendly bacteria. In their absence, other organisms normally present and innocuous can seize the opportunity offered and expand their numbers explosively and dangerously.

One of the most prevalent and troublesome—and sometimes deadly—of these organisms is the yeast Candida albicans.
*As I tell my clients, usually when they are talking about their stomach, as in a stomach ache or upset stomach, they usually mean their small intestine or transverse colon. Why do I say this? Because when I ask them to point to the place they are talking about, they point to the area around the belly button, which is where these organs are located. The stomach is much further up and to the left.



Although antibiotics are taken to restore our body’s health, they also create a threat to the bacterium in the intestines that are designed to support health. Antibiotics have a place in the world of medicine and treatment, but their overuse is common and can cause real problems.

Treating problem skin with antibiotics is a good example of this. I have come across hundreds of people who have been on antibiotics for their skin for years! This cannot be a good thing! After reading the previous excerpt from the acidophilus booklet, I hope you begin to understand that long-term use of antibiotics—for whatever reason—can be a real threat to your body’s balanced state of health.

What and when to take acidophilus. There are approximately 11 trillion bacteria in residence in your intestines. Eleven trillion! That’s about 3 1/2 pounds of bacteria—the good kind. I mention this not only because it is an amazing fact, but also because some clients have expressed concern over taking acidophilus, which can (and should) contain up to a billion live bacteria in a single dose. When you compare these numbers, a billion vs. 11 trillion, it doesn’t seem so daunting.

After talking with several health care professionals, they all agree you want to take acidophilus that requires refrigeration. These supplements usually come in capsule form, although powdered acidophilus is also available. There are several brand names, so I recommend talking to a qualified person who works in the herb and supplement section of your health food store. They will (or should) be well-versed in what the store offers and what the best source of acidophilus is for you. Directions vary on when to take acidophilus, but generally it is recommended to take one to three capsules 20 to 60 minutes after eating.

I started taking acidophilus after I was on antibiotics. Now that I’ve stopped the antibiotics, should I keep taking acidophilus?

I would continue taking acidophilus because it is just so important for colon health. Perhaps after a few months off antibiotics and taking acidophilus you could stop, but I would give your colon plenty of time to regroup and regain a healthy balance after antibiotic use. There isn’t any reason that I know of to stop taking acidophilus. It will do you no harm to continue using it, whether or not you are currently taking antibiotics.

For more information, see:

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Yonka-Paris ELASTINE JOUR—Anti-wrinkle day cream for true-dry skin


From Yonka headquarters: ELASTINE JOUR is the ideal time-defying day cream to regain the tone and well-nurtured look of younger skin. Vital skin proteins are stimulated as it visibly reduces fine lines, smooths texture, and imparts radiance. Elastine Jour delivers vital nutrients while controlling moisture loss of the epidermis [outer skin]. It also firms the tissues and inhibits the skins loss of elastic support. Finally, Elastine Jour softens fine lines and wrinkle depth while energizing the epidermis and renewing its vitality.

Elastine Jour and Elastine Nuit complement each other, and when used together as your day and night creams, they create a regenerative program with 19 essential amino acids that smooths wrinkles and fine lines and helps the epidermis to restore its natural elasticity. 

Essential ingredients:
  • Elastin peptides, milk peptides—anti-wrinkle, smoothing
  • Shea butter—repairing, protecting
  • Serine, hydroxyproline—hydrating, reconstructing
  • Vitamins C, E—antioxidants
  • Vitamin A—regenerating
  • Lactic and citric acids—hydrating
Directions for use:
In the morning (Jour means day in French):
  • After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner 
  • Apply a pea-sized dollop of ELASTINE JOUR cream over face and neck
  • Then use your favorite Yonka eye cream

Im not a stickler about using day creams only for day and night creams only at night. With that said,  I do prefer using two different creams for day and night because you get the benefit of many different ingredients vs. the ingredients from just one cream. When you get down to it, using creams period is the most important thing for the health and hydration of your skin. Using one (or more) moisturizer that is the right one for your skin type trumps everything else in my opinion.

For more information, see:

Monday, March 14, 2016

Blackheads in all the wrong places

I don’t know exactly what blackheads are. The pores on the sides of my nose are dark. I’m assuming these are blackheads. What should I do to keep them from getting worse?

Basically, blackheads (also termed comedos or comedones) are clogged pores. The pore, which is a tiny opening on the surface of the skin, can collect skin cells, excreted oil, as well as debris in the air. This mixture can oxidize, causing it to turn a dark color. That is probably what you are seeing on the sides of your nose. 

The best thing to do is to make sure you are cleaning your skin properly on a daily basis and if possible, using a clay mask once or twice a week. Clay has a deep cleansing effect, helping to unclog the pores, which is just what you need to use on blackheads. For daily maintenance do The Basics, and for some additional steps, The Extras (see links below).

What can I do about blackheads around my lips? I recently had a facial and the aesthetician removed them (it hurt!). What, if anything, can I do to prevent them?

Depending on the skill of the aesthetician, extractions can be uncomfortable. The area just at the lip line is a very sensitive area and therefore extractions there can be painful. Hopefully your facialist is preparing the skin as best she can to soften the skin before extraction.

With all that said, I do recommend having these blackheads removed professionally during a facial. As I mentioned (and as you found out), the area around the lip line is very sensitive, and if these places are not extracted properly (you try too hard or extract incorrectly), the tissue can swell and potentially cause infection, which is usually what happens if you attempt to remove the blackheads at home. If you decide to extract these blackheads yourself, follow the rules of extraction (see the “picking” article link below) and proceed with caution. In other words, go slowly.

The tissue of the lip is less flexible than the skin on your face. These blackheads are usually located right on the edge of the lip tissue and the facial skin. So the clogged pore, even if it is small, will have a harder time dislodging from this area.

Always have your fingers wrapped in tissue (Kleenex®). Also, don’t skip putting a dot of clay mask on each place you have extracted. And don’t wear lipstick immediately after extraction! If you have to extract, do it at night before you go to bed. This way the places have all night long to recuperate.

Note that wherever you extract on your lips, it will probably swell more so than when you extract places on your face. This is due to the difference in the tissue. The swelling will recede, especially with the application of clay.

For more information, see:

Sunday, March 13, 2016

A few new aestheticians looking for help

I am a new aesthetician, and I bought a skin care business recently. When I first approached the previous owner over a year  ago, I wanted to find out if there was a way I could work for her—learn the industry a little bit better. Since I’ve used the same product she used for over fifteen years, I thought that was what I wanted to work with. Being the excellent saleswomen she is, I bought the business. Now I am in the process of learning what it means to be successful.

I love your blog and your website. I especially like what you have to say about “anti-aging.” Your approach to healthy skin sounds so similar to what I would like to step into and be able to offer. Kind of intimidating knowing you are out there, with so much experience and knowledge.

I am right now learning everything I can. I give an amazing facial, I was fully trained by the previous owner and by the skin care company, too. I know we are technically competition, but honestly I would like to team up with you somehow and learn from you. I wonder if there is any way this can be mutually beneficial. What do you think?

Wow, well congratulations to you! Starting a new business—and new career—is a lot to bite off. I wish you all the best of success in your new adventure. As far as “competition”— there really is no competition. People go to who they like and use the products they prefer. Our businesses are in reality completely different. 

As far as learning from me, yes, I have been an aesthetician for over 30 years and have run my salon business for 22 years. I certainly have accumulated a lot of knowledge during all this time. But ultimately you will be learning from your clients, your business, your self every day from here on out. Words can only take you so far, it is experienceface after facethat will give you the expertise you are looking for.

The first few years after school was where my education really began. I read a lot and studied what interested me as it pertained to skin care. Choosing a path that interests you and trusting that eventually, after a few years under your belt, you will start to emerge as the aesthetician you see yourself being is what I recommend. It’s practical experience (over time) that will make you great.

Several aestheticians have contacted me to say how much the two books I have written have helped them understand skin and its care. [This blog] has a lot of my personal experiences as an aesthetician  along with cases from my client files that may be helpful to read about. Finally, last year I created a new blog for professionals; its called Help for Aestheticians: Starting a Business (see link below). There you will find many articles about how to run a skin care (or any personal service) businessor at least how I have successfully run mine.

Best wishes to you on your journey!



Hi Carolyn,
I am a practicing aesthetician and am trying to build a clientele. I am experienced, but I took some time off to have my children and also during this time my husband was deployed. So now I’m back!

I hear people say things like, “Don’t facials hurt?” and “I break out after facials” or “I have sensitive skin.” I think it’s mostly because they aren’t using the right products. So how do I get these people to make appointments for facials with me? I’m starting to get pretty discouraged because I know my stuff and I feel like I’m good at what I do! Thanks so much for your time.


My business has always been and continues to be built on referrals. Although I can’t actually tell you how to “get these people to make appointments per se, I would recommend the following or some version of it:
  • Give your services away to people you think would be good candidates and who would possibly give your name out to their friends
  • Offer a referral appreciation discount
  • Conduct some free seminars locally, and talk about the answers to all the frustrations you mentioned in your email to me. Address those issues, and hand out a coupon to the seminar attendees for a discount on their first facial with you

If you know your stuff—share it. The rest will follow.

If you are an aesthetician or plan on becoming one, please visit my blog Help for Aestheticians: Starting a business. Here you will find lots of information written just for you.

For more information, see: