AHAs in cleansers—why?

I find it so interesting and curious when I see alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in certain facial products. Why do manufacturers put AHAs into cleansers? Cleansers are on your skin only briefly, 10-20 seconds tops. A moisturizing product is on your skin for almost 24 hours per day. If you are using alpha hydroxy acids for their intended purpose (exfoliation), doesn’t it make more sense to use creams that contain AHAs rather than cleansers? If you are going to use a cleanser with AHAs (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing just superfluous, in my opinion), don’t spend more money for these special ingredients.

For more information, see:

• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?
• Do I really need to clean my face?
• CLEANSERS 101: What IS a cleanser? What to look for and what NOT to use—updated

Yonka’s CREME PG—for oily skin

From Yonka headquarters: CREME PG is a restorative moisturizer that protects and hydrates as it regulates the over-production of sebum (oil). Aromatic essences, humectants and emollients work synergistically to rebalance the hydrolipidic film and regulate breakout-causing bacteria. 

Translation: the essential oil content in this cream along with hydrating ingredients help to keep the hydrolipid film (the acidic or proper pH, water (hydro) and oil (lipid) film that is how your skin is naturally balanced), which helps to regulate oil production.

Eliminating shine and purifying oily skin, Creme PG helps balance sebaceous (oil) secretions, tightens dilated pores, and keeps makeup fresh and long-lasting. Creme PG helps stimulate the skin’s ability to repair as the epidermis (outer skin) is balanced and feels smooth to the touch—not oily. Your skin is infused with superior anti-inflammatory and antiseptic clinically proven phyto-sources to regulate and control oil production. Creme PG helps to neutralizes acne bacteria that cause blemishes. It leaves a soft, matte finish that inhibits oiliness.

To say that this (or any) cream “tightens dilated pores” is, in my opinion, unrealistic. But this cream does help to regulate the oil production of your skin, therefore reducing oiliness, shine, and keeping your skin hydrated at the same time. I highly recommend this cream to truly oily skin types. I have had many clients have much success with it over the years.

Essential ingredients:

• Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—oxygenating, balancing
• Burdock root—antioxidant, antibacterial, purifying 
• Climbing ivy—strengthens capillaries, clarifying 
• Seropeptides (soy)—healing, hydrating 
• Retinol (vitamin A acid)—activates cell renewal smooths 
• olive oil

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply a pea-sized dollop of CREME PG over face and neck
• Then use eye cream

If you have oily and especially problem skin, please read the following along with many other articles available on this blogsite:

• Oily Skin explained
• Why you want to use a moisturizer
• What NOT to use on your breakouts + a little known breakout contributor

Melanie’s acupuncture story

Melanie has been a client of mine for years. I have always enjoyed our health and diet discussions during her monthly visits. She is an avid reader about diet and how it affects the body. She is a fit, thirty-something mother of three wonderful boys.

 

Melanie has always had some problems with breakouts—generally around her mouth and chin area. Through the years, I have cautioned her to keep her cell phone away from her face. She is on the phone all day long and as you might guess, resting the phone on your face can and will cause problems—eventually if not immediately.

Melanie has pared down the amount of sugar in her diet, yet her problems persist. Something else you need to know about Melanie: she has never had a normal menstrual cycle. This is a very important key to this story. As with so many bodily functions, menstruation is a clue to a woman’s health. If you are not menstruating, or your cycle is abnormal, it is your body warning you that something is out of balance.

Because of her monthly irregularities, for years I have encouraged Melanie to start getting regular acupuncture treatments. This is exactly the kind of imbalance that I believe acupuncture is so proficient at helping to normalize. When the hormones are out of whack, it can and does throw off so many of our body’s normal cycles. This keeps us from being in a balanced state of health; this keeps us from enjoying our daily lives.

Years ago I moved from Dallas to Chicago to open another skin care salon. When I would return for my quarterly trips to Dallas, Melanie was always on my schedule. On one of my Big D visits and having not seen Melanie for over 5 months, I was pleased to see her skin had made an obvious improvement. Melanie told me that she finally committed to experimenting with acupuncture and had been going regularly for the past year. Well, not so regularly as you will find out.

She started to go and saw improvements in her skin and also in her menstrual cycle; things did seem to be changing for the better. But then life took over, and Melanie was unable to keep her regular appointments with her acupuncturist. Over the past summer, she hardly went for treatment and finally fell off the wagon completely. What she noticed was surprising to her, but is what convinced her to start up again. Melanie noticed, once she wasn’t getting acupuncture treatments, that her period was becoming nonexistent again and her skin problems were also returning. She hadn’t given much credence to the whole alternative treatment course she had begun months earlier. But now, the evidence of how beneficial the treatments had been was in.

Melanie once again began getting regular acupuncture treatments, but this time she was more dedicated to not missing any appointments and going as prescribed by her acupuncturist. She saw and felt undeniable results after this second go-round with acupuncture. Melanie insists it is acupuncture alone that has regulated her menstrual cycle and therefore, finally, helped to clear up her persistent skin problems.

For more information, see:

• Acupuncture explained
• Why you want to get Acupuncture
• Wholistic or Holistic: However you spell it—make the healthy choice

Yonka Products for Post-Cosmetic Surgery

I wanted to give you some information on Yonka products that can be helpful if you’ve recently had cosmetic surgery. Your surgeon may also have given you products or recommendations for what to use post-surgery. I have had many clients use the following, especially Serum Vital (renamed Elixir Vital), all with good results—especially for scarring. 

Click on any product name to be taken to its corresponding article on this blog.

I just had cosmetic, facial surgery

• Nutri+ (formerly Yonka Serum)
• Elixir Vital (formerly Serum Vital)
• Advanced Optimizer Duo
• Any Yonka eye cream—especially Phyto-Contour, which is great for edema (puffiness)

If you haven’t already, please read the following for more helpful information:

• Yonka-Paris products for Your Skin Type

Yonka’s ADVANCED OPTIMIZER GEL LIFT: Anti-aging hydration for the neck, décolleté, and bust

From Yonka Headquarters: ADVANCED OPTIMIZER GEL LIFT dramatically lifts, firms and smoothes the delicate neck, decollete, and bust areas. This fresh, naturally aromatic gel contains innovative hibiscus and soy peptides, which in clinical tests boosted collagen production and GAGs, essential structural components of the skin, for dramatically improved firmness and smoothed texture.

With twice daily use of Yon-Ka Advanced Optimizer Gel Lift, the tissues of the neck, decollete and busts appear more youthful. Cool, gentle, and quickly absorbed, deliciously and naturally aromatic, this gel envelops, smooths, and restores firmness to the delicate area of the neck, décolleté, and bust. The skin is refined and its tone improves rapidly; the breast contour becomes firmer.
 

Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of products that proclaim to “firm” skin—Yonka products or otherwise. However, Gel Lift is a wonderful hydrating gel that is an integral part of keeping the neck and especially the décolleté (the area above the breasts and below the neck) well tended to.
 
I am not disputing what Yonka has to say about Gel Lift—well, I guess I am in a way. Again, I don’t believe you can dramatically (noticeably) “firm” skin, therefore all the references to firming in this or any description of a product goes right by me. I do believe in supporting the structure of skin and helping to reinforce that. To me, this doesn’t “firm” skin, but does add to the integrity of the tissue, which must help with the aging of skin. And both of those Gel Lift does. Plus, I can’t ignore how much my clients love this product! It may not be firming skin, but it does a wonderful job of keeping that particular area hydrated and looking great! One client writes:

I’ve been using the Optimizer neck stuff [aka Optimizer Gel Lift], and I have to say that I do see an improvement in my neck. Never thought I’d say that! Although I think the skin on my neck looks better, I can’t say it seems firmer. It’s just that the aging that has happened to my neck looks much less noticeable, and nothing else I’ve tried really did that. So, once again—yay Yonka!

Essential ingredients:

• Hibiscus peptides, silicon-rich horsetail extract—firmness booster, stimulate collagen production, remineralizes supporting tissue
• Soy peptides—restructuring
• Sweet almond proteins—shaping, lifting
• Marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, plant glycerin—hydrating, smoothing, helps elasticity

Directions for use:

Use a nut-size dollop of gel in the morning and/or evening. Apply it in smoothing motions from the chin to the base of the neck and use circular motions to massage it onto the bust, moving up towards along the neckline.

For more Yonka products, see:

• Advanced Optimizer Duo—Serum & Cream for Anti-Aging
• Cellular Code Serum—for mature skin
• Yonka-Paris skin care products defined