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Monday, February 16, 2015

Oily Skin explained

What is oily skin? This is a condition where the sebaceous glands are producing too much oil. The passageway from the oil gland to the skin’s surface is via the hair follicle. Along this route, if too much oil is being produced, a traffic jam or backup will occur. This backup produces any number of problems: blackheads (comedos or open pores), whiteheads (milia or closed pores), pustules (debris inside a closed pore is infected with pus), and potentially acne (infected cysts deep within the skin).

Why is it oily? Your skin can be oily for a number of reasons.
  • Of course, you may be predisposed genetically to having oily skin (one or both parents had oily and/or problem skin). 
  • Diet plays a big role in how much oil is being produced.
  • Climate (temperature) will affect your oil gland activity.
  • Heat stimulates glandular activity, so a hot summer’s day can cause your skin to be oily.
  • Puberty and the onset of hormonal surges can cause oily skin to appear.
  • Even the beginning of menopause can bring about fluctuations in the oil glands that can cause more oil to be produced for a period of time.
  • Soap, because of its stripping action, can signal your glands to compensate by pumping out more oil.


In general, your skin is oily because your sebaceous or oil glands are producing too much oil. The excess oil will just sit on the surface of your skin, making your face look and feel oily as well as causing a buildup of oil and debris in your pores.

What to use on oily skin. Keeping oily skin clean is of the utmost importance. What you are cleansing it with is equally important. Contrary to popular opinion, you don’t want to “dry out” oily skin. Drying it out sounds logical, but this method is ineffective and won’t clear up problems. However, you do want to keep the surface cleaned out. This is done through using non-alkaline cleansers on a twice-daily basis (morning and evening). For a deep and thorough cleansing, use a clay mask once or several times per week. Finally, exfoliating actively with a gommage or scrub will help keep the dead skin buildup to a minimum. It is dead skin and oil that clog the pores, so keeping the skin clean and well exfoliated will help curb congestion.

For more information, see:

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Where to look for a great facial

Finding a good professional facial involves two key elements. First, you need to find a qualified and experienced aesthetician (a person licensed to perform facials). Then you want to find someone who uses quality products. Both the aesthetician and the product need to be good for the facial to be worth your time and money. You may have to go through some trial and error before you find the perfect facial for you.

The easiest way to find someone who is good at her craft is through a friend’s referral. You want suggestions from someone who has had a lot of facials, a person whose opinion you respect. If your friends don’t get them, ask if someone they know can steer you to a good place for a facial. If you’ve just moved to a new town, ask everyone you meet for a referral, and if the same name keeps coming up, you can start there. (Prior to my books being published, my entire business was built from referrals. It’s the best advertising there is.) If you can’t get a referral, do an Internet search and start calling salons.

When a client moves out of town, I call around to salons in her area to gather information that will help me determine where she might find a good facial. I recommend doing this yourself if you don’t know where to go. Believe it or not, these initial calls will tell you a lot. Keep in mind, you’re looking for a professional. Ask to speak to the aesthetician if she’s available. If not, you’ll have to settle for whoever can answer your questions. Here’s what to ask: 

1. What type of business is it? Is it a full-service salon with hair, nails, and massage, or exclusively skin care? Is it a salon with several aestheticians or an individual running her own business? The individual business owner is more likely to provide the most private environment. She may, however, be leasing space within a large salon, so if size matters to you, be sure and ask. Large salons tend to be less private, with many people coming in and out of them all day long. Some people like more privacy; others enjoy the energy of a busy salon. 

2. Which products does the salon use? If you’re not familiar with the products they use, don’t worry. Eventually you’ll have firsthand experience with different product lines and can make an educated decision about their effectiveness with your particular skin. If you know the products they use, you may or may not need to ask further questions.
Are samples available? I rarely sell products to a first-time client. Not that I won’t, but I prefer to send my client home with samples so she can determine, in the privacy and comfort of her own home, if they are worth the investment. High-quality, effective products will sell themselves without high-pressure sales tactics. If you can’t sample the product (and even if you can), be clear about the salon’s return policy before you decide to buy. 

3. How long has the aesthetician worked there? Is she new? Has she worked in five different places in the past two years? If she’s worked there a long time, at least you know she’s stable and probably has a large and satisfied clientele. If you are just going for an occasional facial, these particular questions aren’t going to be very important to you. But if you are looking for a salon or an aesthetician to get regular facials from, keep this in mind: you are looking to build a relationship. The aesthetician’s personality, her knowledge about skin care, her reliability, stability, etc., are all going to be important qualities to look for. If she tends to move around a lot, and you like her facials, you may find yourself moving around with her. This may not necessarily be a negative, although it could get quite inconvenient for you. 

4. How long has she been an aesthetician? The first few years after skin care school are when your education truly begins. Right after school and without practical experience, you simply don’t know as much as you will in later years. A novice aesthetician is not what you are looking for. Does she use the product herself? You’d be surprised how many people don’t use the products they sell. That’s a very bad sign. The skill of the aesthetician plus her commitment to a quality product are what make a facial great. 

5. How long is the facial? The person you speak to may ask you, “Which one?” I’ll tell you right now I’m not a fan of “menus” when it comes to facials, yet most salons will have one. In my own business, I have one facial that includes everything possible for each individual’s skin to be its best. I do not add costly steps while “en route,” nor do I believe the client should be deciding what her skin needs. It’s not a restaurant where you order what you want; it’s a treatment based on a professional analysis of what’s going on with your skin. The aesthetician should decide the course of treatment for the client, not the other way around. Facials usually last from one to one and a half hours. Anything less than an hour may not be enough time to have quality work done. In recent years I have added a one-hour facial that I provide for those who are stretching to afford a facial and for younger, teenage clients. It is simply a pared-down version of the original.

6. Does the salon use machines? Here are some of the machines and other items that might be used in a facial: steam, brush machine, the vacuum, galvanic current, high-frequency, oxygen facials, comedone extractors, and lancets. See Machines used in facials—are they necessary? for detailed information about all the different machines that you may encounter in a facial.

7. What about extractions? I am wary of a place that doesn’t provide this service. I’ve heard more than one story of clients in desperate need of extractions who find themselves in a salon that refuses to do them. Conversely, I know many clients who truly needed few or no extractions and were “mashed” needlessly. Once again, the skill of the aesthetician comes into play. But an aesthetician or a salon with a “no extractions” policy is saying that they are unwilling to treat all skin conditions. They will not be able to give you what you potentially need. If you know you need extractions, asking this question will quickly eliminate any salon that refuses to do them. If you positively don’t need extractions, or you simply abhor extractions and don’t want them done, then going to a salon that doesn’t provide that service won’t be a problem for you.

8. How much does the facial cost? Prices vary, so you’ll want to call around and know the going rate for facials in your area, so there are no surprises. If one facial is a lot more expensive than the next, you’ll want to find out why. Price is another area where menus come into play. And again, this is another reason I don’t like them. I believe each person should get a whole and complete facial dictated by his or her individual needs. One facial may cost less than another, but perhaps you won’t get everything your skin needs for the lesser price.

Is the price all-inclusive or can extras be added? Unfortunately I have heard many stories of clients who went in to get a $90 facial and came out paying $130 or more. Ouch! There is a little trick you’ll want to watch out for, and it goes something like this: you go into the salon you’ve chosen expecting a $90 facial. But as the aesthetician works on you, she keeps mentioning how dehydrated you are or repeatedly noting some other problem. “You need deep exfoliation,” she says. And you agree. Then when you get your bill, you may be surprised to find you agreed to an extra $20 or $30 service! Make sure to ask if the facial includes everything or if exfoliation, masks, ampoules, etc., are an extra charge. If some of these are not included, you still may want to add them, but certainly you want to know the cost beforehand. A facial, in my opinion, should include everything needed for that client during each treatment without extra charges being tacked on.

9. What will my skin look like afterwards? Your skin should look radiant. It should be clean, clear, and healthy-looking. Unless you have problem skin that requires a lot of extraction, your skin should not be red, irritated, or feel greasy with excess cream needing to be wiped off. Your skin should look and feel great.
10. Will makeup be applied after the facial? There are two reasons you don’t want to apply makeup after a facial. First and foremost, your skin has just been thoroughly cleansed. The last thing you want to do is cover it up with makeup. Second, it is a signal you’ll no doubt be in for a big sales pitch. You’re a captive audience when someone is applying makeup to you, and it can cause even the strongest resister to cave in. Let your skin have a break from makeup for a while. Perhaps the salon wants to use makeup to hide the work they did in the facial. Remember, your skin should look great afterwards. Why cover it up? You may be going out right after a facial and need to apply some makeup. Go ahead, but don’t make it an after-facial habit.

For more information, see:

Pregnant with Problem Skin

The only difference between problem skin when you’re expecting and when you’re not is just a matter of control. When you are pregnant, your body and how it functions is essentially out of your control. I tell my clients (especially first-time pregnancies) to (metaphorically) throw theirs arms up in the air and resign themselves to these changes. This is usually not welcome news.

Having a relaxed attitude about the changes that occur in your body—and your skin—is very important. Consider adopting The Serenity Prayer (by Reinhold Niebuhr): “God, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change; courage to change the things I can; and wisdom to know the difference.” When you’re pregnant, serenity and wisdom will be your greatest allies. You can control your skin (raging hormones) just about as well as you can stop your belly from growing. If you realize early on that you are not in control of your body and the baby is, you will fare a whole lot better.

Case history one. A client of mine, Merry, was pregnant with her first child. Merry, then 27, had been coming to me for a little over five years. Her skin has always been clear with a few blackheads around her nose and chin along with constant slight dehydration. She has a sensitivity to sugar, but unless she has overindulged in the sweet stuff or it’s “that time of the month,” her skin doesn’t usually breakout.

Soon after she got pregnant, her skin began to go haywire. At first she came in with mild breakout, which for her skin was unusual. As the weeks progressed, so did her breakouts until finally around the third month she basically had acne. She went from coming in for facials once a month to having one weekly. She needed all the extra help she could get.

Luckily Merry has a good head on her shoulders. She realized she couldn’t really do anything about the hormones that were surging in her body. And she knew she wouldn’t be able to take anything orally for the skin eruptions since she was pregnant. She decided to wait it out, hoping her skin would eventually adjust.

I had Merry on a program of constant at-home care. First I recommended a lot of exfoliating with a gel-type peel (like Yonka’s Gommage) to help rid the surface skin of dead cells, which could lead to more congestion. Next she used a clay mask that helped draw impurities and plugs up toward the surface and soothed her irritated skin. I also had Merry dot clay on any spots that were infected and sleep with the dots on overnight. She used a clay mask on her entire face several times per week. Exfoliating and using a clay mask were essential in keeping her skin under control—from the outside.

Geranium oil was another important addition to Merry’s skin control program. It is easy to use and is essential in helping tackle problem skin. When you dot a small amount on any infected areas, the antibacterial properties in this essential oil will curb bacterial growth and help to clear the blemish without drying it out. As I’ve explained in articles on problem skin, you want to attend to the breakout with products that not only help to clear your skin, but also soothe the irritations as well. Although I’ve never had a pregnant client whose doctor said “no” to essential oil use, do consult with your OB/GYN before using essential oils.

I am happy to say Merry’s skin eventually returned to normal. It took about four months after the birth of her child to clear up, but she no longer has any new breakout. She did have some temporary discoloration from the problem skin she experienced. Pustules and deep cysts take weeks—sometimes months—to completely clear from the skin. Even after the infection and redness is gone, the damaged tissue still has to make its way up to the surface and be sloughed off. Be patient and know that in most cases, your skin will eventually return to normal.

Case history two. Another client, Melissa, has a different kind of skin malady brought on by pregnancy. Melissa has beautiful, flawless skin. She is 38 years old, the mother of a 2-year-old son, and is 6 months pregnant. When she was pregnant with her first child, she started noticing brilliant red “dots” on her face as well as her upper chest or décolleté area.

She was pretty concerned about this redness since her skin is milky white, making these dots very prominent. I assured her they were part and parcel of her pregnancy. I knew this because earlier in my career, I had gone through a total of three pregnancies with one client who developed these same red spots with every pregnancy. After each baby was born, eventually the dots disappeared.

Technically, these bright red or purplish dots are called spider angiomas, and may appear due to an excess of estrogen. They are basically dilated capillaries that look like red lines radiating from a central red dot. Once the baby is born, the hormone levels return to normal, and the dots will usually disappear on their own within three to six months.

Sure enough, about three months after Melissa gave birth to her son, the dots started to disappear. Cut to the present: pregnant again, and lo and behold, the red dots have reappeared. Now, as with so many things after the first pregnancy, Melissa has a proven history of developing these spots and the relief of knowing they do go away.

As I have said, your body is not your own during pregnancy. Things that show up in that nine-month time period many times will go away—on their own—soon after you have given birth and/or finished breast-feeding. Remember, nothing is forever, and this includes skin irregularities developed during pregnancy. Keep your eye on the prize—the miracle you are creating!

For more information, see:
Anne Geddes, of course!

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Helpful hints to lessen sugar intake

Perhaps you’ve read Sugar Addicted? Try a three-day sugar fast (see link below) and decided to give up sugar for a while. Maybe it was a New Year’s resolution, deciding it was time to make a positive change and sugar had to go. Whether you’re skilled at letting the sweet stuff go or need some helpful hints, the suggestions below may be new to you, and my hope is these ideas help you to lessen sugar in your diet to bring you closer to balanced health.

Don’t eat sugar two days in a row. If I follow this rule, the addiction doesn’t have a chance to set in, I get to exercise my will, and I can have sugar every now and then. This doesn’t mean it’s OK to eat it every other day. It means don’t go on a run of eating sugar for days on end. Have some cookies one day if you haven’t had sugar in a while and just want to indulge. But stop there. Otherwise you will get your system readdicted and you’ll have to go through the withdrawal process all over again. Don’t start another chain of events. Don’t link one day of eating sugar to the next. You want to break the chain, not start one.

Another alternative is to go sugar-free Monday through Friday and allow yourself a moderate amount of sugar on the weekends. It’s like a reward for being good most of the week. It is the excessive intake of any toxic substance that creates the downfall of health. I’m not a big believer in complete denial or deprivation; moderation is the key here. Allow yourself some pleasure, but keep your sugar intake in check. Remember, you control how much sugar you eat; don’t let sugar control you.

If you don’t crave it, don’t eat it. Sometimes eating sugar is just a habit. Jars or bowls of sweets are lying around your home or office, so you constantly have visual cues to eat the sweet stuff. If this is true, it will be hard to just walk past that dish full of jelly beans or M&Ms, but you’ve got to give it a shot. Sometimes you have to forgo the good stuff to get to the great stuff, which in this case is clear skin (if you know you're sensitive to sugar). So if you aren’t going crazy with a sugar craving, pass up the sweets.

Don’t buy things you know you’re going to eat. If you are anything like me, when it comes to the junk foods you love, you have faulty willpower. I sometimes buy a sugary food thinking, “Well, I just want it around in case I have an uncontrollable craving.” And the truth is, at the moment I hold that item in my hands, I know in my soul that I will be eating it as soon as I get home. This is not to say I don’t give in to my cravings from time to time. But if something is sitting around my house, and it’s one of the junk foods I like, I will eat it. So my suggestion is this: don’t buy foods to keep around the house you know you don’t really want to eat or shouldn’t eat. When that major craving comes along and you decide to give in, go out and get the sweets you crave at that moment and be done with it. Make it a one-time deal. Don’t keep poor-quality foods lying around in your kitchen calling you to “come and get it.”

Not buying the sweet things you like may seem like a simple concept, but just wait till you’re in the grocery store eyeballing all those sweet delights. You may think to yourself, “I’ll just get one (box, bag, or pint) and keep it for emergency sugar attacks.” Or you may think if you buy your favorite candy you’ll be able to eat “just one.”

My objective is to take you to the land of awareness, and to help you realize you have the ability to affect the health of your skin. In order to do this, you need to understand the correlation between sugar and your skin problems. It is within your power to say yes or no to sugar. Now you can decide if you want to contribute to your breakouts or not.

For more information, see:
Um—I think it was not within her power quite yet

Monday, February 9, 2015

An Exfoliation Quick Tip for a Quick Pick-Me-Up

Exfoliating prior to a special occasion will have a twofold benefit for your skin.
  • First, it will remove dead cells, making the surface smoother and helping your makeup go on better.
  • It will also stimulate circulation, making your skin look luminous.
Dont hesitate—exfoliate!

For a few more tips, see: