Humidity and its effect on your skin

What effects does humidity—especially during the summer months—have on my skin?

Humidity, like during a rainy day (or season), is actually good for the skin. It simply helps to hydrate whatever it comes in contact with, therefore your skin. So normal humidity from moist weather superficially hydrates your skin (even in a dry climate like Colorado).

Humidity during the summer and in extremely humid locations (like Houston, TX for instance) can cause the oil glands to become more active. This makes oily skin oilier. Because humidity during the summertime can make us sweat more, this can translate to more breakouts.

When I was working in Dallas, I had many more clients with issues of what I’ll call humidity breakout than I do here in Colorado, where the air is very (very) dry. Keeping the skin clean and well-exfoliated, no matter where you live or what your skin type, is my best advice. How?

• Using a non-alkaline cleanser (daily, morning and night)
• A clay-based mask for deep cleansing (1-2 times weekly)
• And whatever your exfoliator of choice is to remove the dead cell buildup (which is hopefully Yonka’s Gommage!)

Scrubs (both for face and the body) are excellent at gently removing dead skin and debris off the surface of your skin. A scrub is a good exfoliation choice at any time and especially if you’ve been out sweating on a hot summer’s day.

Don’t let sweat dry on your skin, or you may experience tiny bumps or irritations just beneath the surface of your skin—wherever you have been sweating, face and/or body. If you don’t have access to water or for whatever reason cannot rinse the sweat off your skin, do so as soon as you can. You really don’t want sweat to dry on your skin!

Treating skin that is affected by humidity isn’t that different from helping to clear breakout and problem skin caused by another reason. The main difference is you can always cut down on sugar or whatever may be causing a breakout diet-wise, but you can’t just pick up and move away from a humid environment that you might call home. Keeping your skin clean and well-exfoliated is always your best bet for healthy-looking skin.

For more information, see:

• What is a clay mask and why use one? 
• What IS Gommage?
• Proper pH & your skin care products
• NO SWEAT: What happens when sweat dries on your skin?

Machines used in facials—are they necessary?

Does the facial salon you go to use machines?

Machines are very common, and below I have listed those most often used in facials. The salon you go to may employ all or none of them. Keep in mind machines lack the sensitivity of human contact. Studies show the tremendous healing benefits of touch. It calms the nervous system, and gives you, the client, a sense of connection to the aesthetician. If machines are used every step of the way, I’d think twice before getting a facial at that salon. That is just my opinion. My preference is to make educating my client the number one purpose of the facial, along with utilizing the soothing touch of massage throughout my treatments. If you happen to like machines, by all means—go for it!

Steam machine. This is probably the most widely used piece of machinery. Almost every facial offers steam at least once, and in some cases several times throughout a skin care treatment. The mist coming from the arm of the machine superficially hydrates the outer skin and softens debris held in the pores, ideally making extractions easier. I have found, however, that once the steam is removed, the debris inside the pores hardens along with the outer skin, making extractions more difficult (and by the way—more painful!).

The heat from the steam stimulates circulation, which helps to nourish the cells, although the heat may become too intense for several skin conditions. If you have acne, capillary damage, redness, or sensitive skin, you are not a good candidate for steam. In fact, you should avoid it. If you find yourself in a treatment where steam is used, and you have one of these skin conditions, ask the aesthetician to either move the steam farther from your face or do away with it all together.

Steam is a superfluous step in many ways, but most facials incorporate it. A beneficial time to utilize the steam machine is during the clay mask. Request that it be used then in order to keep the clay moist. Be aware, your aesthetician may balk at this suggestion, but explain that you don’t want the clay to dry on your face or the steam on your bare skin.

For more information on the use of steam on your face, read Is steam good for my skin? as well as that section in One facial experience—not a great one (links below).

Brush machine. The brush machine eliminates dead surface cells by using a rotating brush attached to a motorized unit. The brushes spin at various speeds, come in different textures, and are generally made of goat hair. Your choices for exfoliation in a facial are sometimes limited to the brush machine or a scrub. Neither is terribly effective, but unless the product line the salon uses has other options for exfoliation, you may be faced with this machine. Most salons now include mild to strong acid peels for exfoliation within the facial.

One problem I have with this machine is sanitation. The brushes are used on everyone who has been to that salon for a facial. Of course they are properly sanitized (you hope), but how long has a particular brush been in use? My opinion about the use of a professional electric brush in a facial is similar to using at-home brush machines, like the Clarisonic. 

This machine should never be used on acne, red, or sensitive skin. It should never be used on skin with broken capillaries. It’s not the worst thing in the world, but at the very least, human touch is once again replaced by a machine.

The vacuum. Yes, that’s right—a vacuum. I can’t believe these are still used today, but they are. In case you come across the vacuum in a facial, just say “NO!” Its purpose is to suction out embedded dirt and debris from the pores. Unfortunately, it can cause capillary damage due to the suction and is very ineffective at cleaning out the pores. A vacuum should be used on a floor, not on your face.

Galvanic current. This machine uses a low-level current and two terminals, or poles. One pole is positively charged; the other is negatively charged. Sometimes these poles are called “active” and “indifferent.” The client holds the negative or indifferent pole, and the active pole is placed on the skin, creating a circuit.

The purpose of this machine is to make products penetrate deeper into the skin as well as soften tissue and stimulate circulation. It is my contention that products applied manually penetrate far enough into the skin without the need to incorporate electrically charged machines. I find these devices disruptive to the natural flow of the facial. They aren’t used very often, although some salons subscribe to the benefits of machines and will employ galvanic current. 

High-frequency. This machine uses infrared light that is either violet or orange-red. The light is directed through a glass electrode that is in turn applied to the skin. (When the machine is turned on, it sounds a bit like Dr. Frankenstein’s laboratory.) The uses for a high frequency machine are to stimulate circulation, warm the surface of the skin, as well as to disinfect the skin.

The client’s entire face is gone over with a mushroom-shaped electrode, or individual blemishes can be zapped by lifting the electrode off the skin just over the problem spot. This lifting causes a slight shock or spark that has a concentrated, germicidal effect, destroying bacteria. High-frequency is also used to aid in the penetration of products.

Here again, there is only so far a product can go into the skin. I don’t feel the need to use a machine to penetrate products when a pair of hands can do the job. Manually applying products soothes the client with human touch as well. Many skin care salons utilize the high-frequency machine, so you will probably come in contact with it. You might want to give it a try to see if you enjoy this form of treatment.

I don’t use any machines in my facial. I prefer to use my hands and let the products do their magic. Machines leave me cold, and stimulating someone’s skin this way doesn’t feel right to me. Earlier in my career I had access to a high-frequency machine. I rarely used it because I felt it was doing little to improve my clients’ skin and added a strange, cold indifference to the facial. Employing foreign objects with peculiar, electrical noises in place of the soothing nature of human touch didn’t create the relaxing environment I wanted to provide for my clients. 

Oxygen facials. These treatments usually combine products with special oxygen-related ingredients, along with pure oxygen applied directly to the skin. The products supposedly reduce the function of the skin so the oxygen can penetrate through the skin’s barrier. Then a blast of oxygen from a tank is applied to your face, and voila—your skin miraculously absorbs this added oxygen! Actually, most doctors agree that although this is surely a harmless treatment, you cannot make oxygen penetrate into the skin this way.

Having a blast of oxygen directed at your face may feel good and may do wonders for your circulation, but the oxygen carried in your blood is what is feeding and nourishing the skin—from the inside out. There are many people, many professionals, who may disagree with me. There are also a lot of people making money selling these kinds of facials. I have a very different approach to skin care. It rarely, if ever, incorporates the latest trends or fads that are presented to the public.

Perhaps mine is an old-fashioned approach. I don’t, however, see any great improvements in skin after having trendy treatments (such as oxygen facials) or using the latest miracle product. If you’re curious about this or any other procedure or skin treatment, check it out and see for yourself whether or not you receive the results that are promised. Oxygen facials tend to be quite expensive, so be forewarned.

What about oxygen bars? These booths or bars administer large amounts of oxygen, which is supposed to be purifying. The truth is, your body breathes in oxygen and exhales carbon dioxide perfectly without any help. Trust your body and seek to cleanse and purify it through proven, effective means such as diet and exercise. Again, I know people will disagree with me, people who have gone to oxygen bars. My response to them is—great! In life you have to find what works and what doesn't work for you. I prefer to spend my money on products that will affect my skin on a daily basis. In short: to each his or her own.

Please don't ever use one of these!

Comedone extractor. This is a metal instrument that looks similar to a knitting needle. It has a small, donut-shaped hole at one end. As the hole encircles the blackhead and pressure is applied, the extractor helps to drive debris out of the blackhead.

As the name implies, it is to be used on comedones, the technical term for blackheads. Used on closed pores, a comedone extractor could lead to disaster. I highly discourage letting anyone use one of these instruments on you. The aesthetician has little or no sense of how much pressure she is applying. At the very least, this can cause capillary damage, not to mention the insensitivity of unyielding metal on your face. I would never use one of these in a treatment or even on my own skin at home. See Just say NO to comedone extractors! to read about a client’s experience (and it’s not a good one) with the use of a comedone extractor in a facial she had.

I have to say it one more time: Please—do not use a comedone extractor on your skin or let an aesthetician use one on you either!

PLEASE: Don’t use these either!

Lancets. A lancet is a disposable pin or needle-like implement originally designed for diabetics to prick a finger in order to draw blood and test their blood sugar levels. Lancets are used in facials to make a tiny opening in a closed pore or pustule so the debris can gently be nudged out through the opening. Not to fear, a lancet is not used to dig into the blemish. In the hands of a skilled aesthetician, it can be an effective tool to help with extractions.

Some of you may love having facials with some of the machines listed above. As with many things in any particular facial treatment, it all comes down to preference. Everyone is different; almost every facial and aesthetician is different. If during a facial the professional uses a machine that you aren’t familiar with and especially if you don’t want it used on you, stop her and ask her to explain why she thinks the machine is necessary for your skin before she actually uses it on you. You always have a choice in any kind of treatment, facial or otherwise, so be sure to ask questions and feel confident before going forward.

For more information, see:

• What to expect in a facial treatment where I go over some questions you might want to ask your aesthetician before and during your next facial treatment
• Is steam good for my skin? 
• One facial experience—not a great one
• Facial Brushes: Yes or No?

Top 10 reasons for not wearing sunscreen: What’s your excuse?

Wearing hats and sunscreen is the best way to keep your skin from incurring too much sun damage while you’re having fun outside. If you don’t wear sunscreen—and no hat either?!—perhaps now would be a good time to start. Below are the top 10 excuses people have given me for not wearing sun protection.

1. It makes my skin feel greasy.
2. It burns.
3. It doesn’t work.
4. I just sweat it off.
5. I want to get color.
6. Skin cancer doesn’t run in my family.
7. I never burn, so why use it?
8. It’s too much trouble.
9. I forgot to put it on.
10. Wearing sunscreen makes my face feel hot.

Let me address these concerns:

1.) If wearing sunscreen makes your face feel greasy, you could simply be wearing the wrong product. There are more and more sunscreens available that are made with ingredients that will keep a matte finish vs. causing an oil slick. If you indeed have an oilier skin type, I recommend wearing sunscreen during the day as your day cream. There is no need to pile a sun product on top of a moisturizer—the sunscreen is a cream, so you should get adequate moisturizing qualities from using it alone. 

2.) If your sunscreen causes any sensation like burning, itching, peeling or anything else—don’t use it! Those responses are your skin telling you to remove it now. Unfortunately, sometimes finding a sunscreen that works for your skin can involve a bit of trial and error, but I assure you it is worth the effort. Throughout your life there will be countless occasions where you will need a good sunscreen, so finding one is imperative.

3.) Once in a while I’ll have a client complain that even though they had sunscreen on, they still got color. It’s as though the sunscreen didn’t work. I am here to tell you: it did! None of these clients got sunburns, therefore the sun product did its job. Sunscreens aren’t meant to keep all UV rays away (only being inside away from windows can do that), they are made to keep your skin from burning.

4.) Sweating sunscreen off is a big concern as well as then reapplying it.

5.) I understand the desire to “get color” and therefore sunbathing or simply not wearing sunscreen to let the UV rays have there chance to turn your skin color darker. Any time you wear sunscreen you are still getting sun; however, the higher the SPF, the less color you will receive. So could we make a compromise here? How about wearing a lower SPF on the days or during the activities where you are trying to darken the color of your skin. Then have a higher SPF handy for those times when you not only don’t want to get color, but when you know you’ll be out for an extended period of time and will most likely burn without it.

6.) Congratulations that so far you have not had skin cancer in your family. Frankly, that is so rare. Melanoma, the deadliest of skin cancers, is less likely than other forms like basal cell carcinoma, but I assure you skin cancer can happen even if you haven’t had a lot of UV exposure in your lifetime. Resting on the laurel that it doesn’t run in your family seems, to me, like not only a flimsy excuse for not wearing sun protection, but a potentially deadly one as well. Please wear some sun protection at least some of the time when you’re out and about in the sun. Skin cancer is the most preventable form of cancer. Don’t tempt fate.

If you wear SPF, you shouldn’t burn

7.) Sunscreen is worn to help keep some of the damaging rays of the sun off your skin. These powerful UV rays cause tanning, burning, and skin cancer. I would say unequivocally that you should wear sunscreen to help keep skin cancer away—although it’s not a panacea; skin cancer can find you sunscreen or not and even if you never get sunburns.

8.) If wearing sunscreen is too much trouble, perhaps visiting a dermatologist who is removing a cancerous lesion from a client’s face might convince you otherwise. I will say that wearing sunscreen is not a guarantee that skin cancer won’t be in your future, but it certainly helps, as do hats and shade. If you just will not wear sunscreen, would you consider wearing a hat?

9.) Simply forgetting to put on sunscreen does happen, of course. I think out of sight, out of mind; try keeping your sunscreen out on your bathroom cabinet so you might better remember that it needs to be applied before you go out.

10.) If your face feels hot from wearing sunscreen, perhaps if you try a different, lighter-textured sun product this could solve the problem. (See #1—Sunscreen makes my skin feel greasy.) There are lighter, milky-type creams vs. heavy, thick creams you can use that shouldn’t cause that hot feeling.

For more information, see:

• SUNSCREENS: The WHAT & WHY plus the importance of REAPPLYING
• Basal Cell Carcinoma: David’s story for an eye-opening look into one person’s skin cancer experience
• Hats, Hats, Hats! Protect your skin in the sun 

The Forgotten Places: The Hands

We tend to worry about our hands (the tops of our hands) long after the damage has occurred, which makes this area one of The Forgotten Places. If you’re young, start now to take care of your hands, so they will reflect this care when you’re older. And even if you are older and haven’t taken very good care of this area, it’s never too late to start. Your skin will always reflect the care you give it. Here are a few suggestions.

First, whenever you exfoliate your face and neck, exfoliate the tops of your hands. It’s a small area, so it doesn’t take much time (or product), but getting rid of the dead cells here will go a long way in keeping your hands looking youthful and feeling smooth.

Next, after you have applied moisturizer to your face and neck, smooth any excess product on your hands. If they are chronically dry, apply a special hand cream or the cream you’re using on your body before you go to bed. Try to apply it as often as you can throughout the day as well.

Another suggestion is to wear gloves. They can really help to keep the tops of your hands hydrated as well as protected from the elements. I have clients who sleep with gloves on to ensure an overnight moisturizing effect. Rubber gloves are great if your hands are in water a lot or even a little. Wear them while doing the dishes or any other time your hands will be immersed in water. Driving with gloves on will help keep the damaging sun off your hands. Wearing gloves in cold weather will go a long way toward protecting the tops of the hands from damage, not only from the sun, but also from the dry, cold air. 

Finally, wearing sunscreen on the tops of your hands is important. When applying sunscreen to your face and/or body, don’t forget the tops of your hands.

For more information, see:

• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands
• Pigmentation is so one-sided for some helpful tips
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream for a truly great (and effective) hand cream

Yonka’s Eye Treatment Creams & Gels

Yonka has created three wonderful eye creams:

• Nutri-Contour
• Phyto-Contour
• Alpha-Contour

Each one has many attributes; all are wonderful for keeping the eye area hydrated and nourished. If you are not clear on the purpose of using eye cream, please see EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product (link below).

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NUTRI-CONTOUR is the eye treatment I recommend to my clients most often. The reason is because it is hydrating, preventing that delicate eye area from dryness and the appearance of wrinkles.

It is an oil-based cream vs. a water-based gel, giving it lasting ability. Optimal use is morning and evening—at least, and any time in between. I instruct my clients to simply feel the skin under their eyes. If it feels dry, then apply more eye cream, even if it is in addition to your regular morning and evening application during your Basics routine.

From Yonka headquarters:
NUTRI-CONTOUR repairing eye, lip cream is an anti-free radical cream rich in antioxidant vitamins. It successfully delays aging signs and helps diminish the appearance of expression lines. The perfect eye-lip daily shield, loaded with moisture. Essential vitamins are replenished into the eye and lip contours, warding off dehydration and wrinkles. Perfect for every day use; doesn’t leave delicate tissues with a heavy greasy feeling.

Essential ingredients:

• Hazelnut oil—repairing, nourishing
• Chamomile, vitamin PP—soothing, softening
• Vitamin F—prevents dehydration
• Vitamin E—antioxidant

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of NUTRI-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles. Sorry!

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ALPHA-CONTOUR. I love this eye gel. It goes on smoothly and feels fresh and wonderful.

In general, gels have less long-term hydrating abilities than creams. Gels are water-based; creams are oil-based. However I love the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) content in this gel. AHAs help to dislodge dead skin that is sticking together, basically helping to exfoliate skin merely by its application.

I’m not a huge fan of AHAs, as you might have read in previous articles, however for the undereye area I do think AHAs are a worthwhile ingredient. If you want to learn more about why I’m not in favor of using these acids on the face, read What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not? (See link below.)

I have several clients (myself, included) who use Alpha-Contour for their nasolabial folds (smile lines) and the vertical lines above the lips. Because it’s a gel, it soaks in quickly and isn’t heavy like a cream would be—especially on the upper lip area. Like any cream (or gel) this product will not erase wrinkles, but due to Alpha-Contour’s AHA content, it can help to make the lines look less noticeable. And truly, with the exfoliation benefits of AHAs, Alpha-Contour can indeed help to lessen the lines.

I like this gel eye treatment better in the warmer, summer months. I usually recommend Nutri-Contour for most clients in the winter. A cream stays on longer and gives more moisture than a gel will (this gel, included), and in Colorado, because of the dry air, we need all the help we can get when it comes to moisturizing. But don’t let that stop you from using this eye gel. It really is a personal favorite.

From Yonka headquarters:

ALPHA-CONTOUR for wrinkles and fine lines is an avant-garde technology gel for eyes and lips that insures the utmost avoidance against the aging process. It helps to eliminate aging cells and replenishes moisture to skin. This lightweight gel works to actively reduce frown lines and furrows and instantly melts pleasantly into the skin.

Alpha-Contour works with aging skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin starting to show the negative signs of aging around the delicate eyes and lips can benefit from continuous use. Botanical AHA’s found in this gel stimulate cell renewal to help skin heal itself from the inside out 

Essential ingredients:

• AHAs (fruit acids from lemon, orange, sugar cane, maple, and blueberry)—anti-wrinkle, renovating, hydrating
• Hyaluronic acid—hydrating
• Mimosa tenuiflora, marine peptides—regenerating, smoothing
• Essential oil of peppermint—refreshing
• Essential oil of lavender—calming   

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of ALPHA-CONTOUR gel on lines around eyes (and if you want to, the upper lip area, as mentioned above)
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Remember: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft; they do not erase wrinkles!

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PHYTO-CONTOUR is a treatment cream formulated specifically for puffiness and dark circles. Because this is in a cream base, Phyto-Contour is also hydrating to that delicate under-eye area. It has a high concentration of rosemary essential oil. This make the cream aromatic and can cause tearing in some people.

Yonka recommends the following when using Phyto-Contour—“To give the rosemary fragrance time to dissipate, and to prevent tearing, keep your eyes closed during application.” 

Unless you are applying a thick layer of this eye treatment, I think you will be OK to keep your eyes open. I will, however, recommend that you use caution if you wear contacts. Some people do “tear up” with the rosemary essence, so be careful. But do use this wonderful, aromatic eye cream. It is oh, so Yonka and oh, so wonderful

From Yonka headquarters:
PHYTO-CONTOUR for puffiness and dark circles is a delicate eye cream that works deep down to produce an immediate sensation of freshness. This cream uses extracts of rosemary to visibly decongest fluid buildup and lines around the eyes. Dark under-eye circles are lightened, giving an appearance of alert, awake eyes. Under-eye bumps are alleviated and the delicate skin around the eye is visibly lifted.

 
Phyto-Contour works hard to decongest puffy, tired eyes. The multi-purpose works to guarantee a visible lift and imparts a soothing de-stressing sensation while lightening dark circles under the eyes. 

Essential ingredients:

• Rosemary—firming, toning, draining 
• Beech bud peptides—restructuring, smoothing
• Aloe vera, plant glycerin—hydrating
• Vitamin E—antioxidant  

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of PHYTO-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes and/or where you experience puffiness
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

For extreme puffiness, like after an evening of too much sugar, wine, or even crying, see An effective treatment for puffy eyes using Yonka’s Phyto Contour for a “morning method” of using this anti-puffiness eye treatment. Phyto-Contour can really help to reduce edema (puffiness) and even lessen dark circles—temporarily, but definitely noticeably.

For the last time: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles! No matter which Yonka eye cream you use—or perhaps an eye treatment from a different product line—use eye cream! It is an important step in your daily skin care routine.

For more information on eye creams along with links to the articles mentioned above, see:

• EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product
• Will my puffy eyes ever go away? Help!
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?