The Extras—Do more to have healthy skin

There are two steps you’ll want to add to The Basics on a weekly or biweekly basis that are important for maintaining healthy, problem-free skin. I call these two steps The Extras. Although they are called “extras,” I really consider them to be “essentials.” These important steps are exfoliating and using a clay mask. The Basics are your daily maintenance, but The Extras can take your skin one step closer to being its best.

Exfoliating removes the dead cell buildup on your face, leaving your skin feeling soft and smooth. It’s an overaccumulation of dead skin and excess oil that can cause your pores to clog, resulting in blackheads, whiteheads, and potentially breakout. Removing a few layers of dead cells on a regular basis is an important step that helps to clean out the surface skin, removing oil and debris that has accumulated; refine the texture of your skin, leaving it feeling smooth to the touch; exfoliation helps your moisturizer do a better job since the cream has less dead skin to absorb into. You will hear me say this a lot: Exfoliation is paramount to healthy, clear skin.

A clay mask deep cleans the pores and soothes the surface of your skin. Clay draws to itself, lifting out superficial debris from all of the pores the clay is spread on. Clay also can temporarily diminish redness, helping to soothe irritations. Clay is also good for stimulating blood circulation, which is always a plus for healthy-looking skin. I have written many articles about the importance of clay, especially if problem skin is an issue. Start by reading the articles below that also have more links to even more information to understand how beneficial this step is to your overall healthy skin care routine.

For more details, see the following articles:

• All About Exfoliation will help you understand the hows and whys of this important process
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program will give you more information on what your daily routine could (should) look like
• At-Home Facials—A DIY How-To—to get even more anti-stress results from The Extras

For more information about clay masks, see:

• Why use a Clay Mask 
• How to use a Clay Mask—Important Instructions
• Blemish Help Quick Tip

Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!

The following is a case where knowledge really is power.

A client came in for a facial, complaining of congestion all around her nose and cheeks. She had experienced this for over a year and was unable to get any clear answers as to what might be going on with her skin. During the treatment, I asked what had changed in her life a year or more ago—especially with her skin care routine. She did change skin care products right around then, but she didn’t feel this was the problem.

After looking at her skin, I agreed that it was indeed congested. I really felt it was product-induced rather than a problem with too much oil production. Why? The pores were clogged in a way that just didn’t seem consistent with overproduction of oil from within. Her skin had a spongy quality to it, like it was getting too much moisture. It looked puffy and felt oversaturated.

My client admitted to using too much product when she moisturized and that she’d previously switched to dry skin products. She was doing this because her skin felt “dry,” although she wasn’t oil-dry just dehydrated. These two conditions can feel the same (“My skin feels dry.”) but the treatment, whether for true-dry or dehydrated skin, is not the same. Minus the congestion and current problems, her skin was normal or normal to oily. My recommendations were: 

• Step one: stop using so much product!
• Step two: start using products for combination or normal-to-oily skin (her skin type)
• Step three: exfoliate and use a clay mask as often as possible. Two to three times per week would be a good start, and then once a week after the congestion has diminished

Exfoliating will help remove accumulated surface dead skin that can make skin feel dry. Clay can greatly improve the condition of her pores, helping to clean out the superficial debris and keep her pores from enlarging.

This client did what many people do—she treated her normal to oily dehydrated skin like true-dry skin by over-moisturizing. Understanding the condition of your skin—specifically the oil content of your skin—is crucial to treating it properly.

I see this over and over again: A client like this one thinks because her skin feels dry she actually has true-dry skin. And in many instances that just isn’t the case. Hopefully you’ll read information here and on my website and have a better understanding about the difference between dry and dehydrated skin. Then, after applying this knowledge, you can enjoy the benefits of proper skin care.

My client’s skin, by the way, has dramatically improved. After switching to a more appropriate moisturizer for her actual skin type as well as using less product, the spongy quality to her skin has all but disappeared. And the congestion she was experiencing has been cut in half at least.

This misunderstanding between true-dry skin and dehydration is something that keeps coming up with my clients—and their problem skin. Sometimes (not always, of course) the problem is misinformation. For more information and clarification on this important subject see:

• Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin
• Still confused about “dry” vs. dehydrated skin?
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Determining Skin Type

Teenage Skin—what you need to know

Many of my clients have asked what they can do for their teenagers’ problem skin. Or sometimes they simply want to start their teens on a good skin care program, but don’t know where to begin. Whether your kids have problem skin or not, there are some basic habits teenagers should try to develop that can have a positive effect on their skin. I have written this section specially for them.

1. Keeping your skin clean is of paramount importance. Generally, you use soap to wash your face. This presents problem number one. Almost all soaps have high alkalinity. Alkaline cleansers should not be used, especially by people (young or old) having problems with their skin. Alkalinity strips all surface oil and water off your skin, leaving it depleted. The oil glands will usually pump out more oil to compensate for the loss.

Adding to this excess oil, your skin might become dehydrated from the soap. So your face may feel dry (although it’s simple dehydration), yet will look and feel oily at the same time. Confusing, isn’t it? Liquid Aveeno or Cetaphil cleansers would be good alternatives to soap. They are inexpensive and do a good job of cleansing. 

So keeping the skin clean with a non-alkaline cleanser is the first rule to follow. Just as I would instruct adults, you should be washing your face both in the morning and in the evening. Getting into good skin care habits early on will benefit you down the road.

2. Rinse off your face immediately after exercising. This is very important. All that salty sweat is basically toxic waste (toxins) being released from your body. It is coming out of your body, and you need to complete the elimination by thoroughly rinsing your face with water until you can’t taste the saltiness anymore. Many clients who were experiencing sweat-related problems had a significant reduction in their breakouts using this quick rinse-off method. 

3. Don’t wash too much. If clean is good, then surely washing several times throughout the day must be better, right? Well, it’s not. Since soap dries out the surface of your skin, you are essentially forcing your oil glands to pump and pump and pump to keep the surface lubricated. Even using non-alkaline cleansers can overstimulate the oil glands, giving rise to oilier skin. Although it is important to keep the skin clean, you don’t want to create more oil. Washing twice a day is a good guideline—and always after sweating. If you feel the need to wash another time in the day, then do so. But in general, don’t wash too much.

4. Abrasive scrubs are out if there are problems with infection (red bumps, pimples, blemishes, zits, and/or acne). Blemishes can easily be opened up or irritated with the abrasive particles contained in a scrub. Like open wounds, a scrub can leave these blemishes subject to even more infection and makes them take longer to heal. If no infection is present, scrubs are fine to use—as long as they are used with care. You never want to rub too aggressively with a scrub. Please be sure your skin is already wet when applying the scrub. Never use one on a dry skin. Why? Too much pulling and not enough glide.

5. Pimple-drying agents should not be used on problem skin. This includes oxy products, blemish pads, etc. These products are very harsh, to say the least. They’re being used on skin that is infected and inflamed. This tissue needs soothing, calming, antibacterial products used on it, not harsh, caustic creams.

6. Food does affect your skin. There are plenty of books and many doctors who will disagree with me on this issue. However, I have seen too much evidence to believe otherwise. It just doesn’t make sense that what you eat doesn’t affect everything about you, including your skin. It’s like saying I can fill up my car’s gas tank with orange juice, and this won’t affect how it runs. A car requires a certain type of fuel to run efficiently, and so does your body. If you put low-quality foods into your system, sooner or later your system (your body) will rebel.

During the teen years (I know this was true for me), eating healthy, well-balanced meals isn’t necessarily the norm. There tends to be a lot of sodas and sweets, and usually a more than occasional fast-food burger and fries. Even if your stomach can survive this, it is doubtful your skin will—not for any extended length of time. I think your body can tolerate all kinds of abuse for a short period of time, but after your time is up, your body will rebel. It will start creating symptoms of overload. One of these “symptoms” is breakout.

And to top that off, kids are bombarded by advertisements in teen magazines to use oxy this or “zit remover” that. As I’ve said before, these products do little more than irritate the skin and put the irruption in a dormant (inactive, not cleared up) state. Become aware of how food may be affecting your skin.

7. Don’t pick. I know this is an impossible request. I feel it is my duty to at least address this issue even though I’m quite sure faces will be picked at by their owners. It’s human nature. But truly, my recommendation is to leave your face alone.

When to start your kids on a skin care program. When your children are starting puberty, it would be beneficial to start them on a good skin care program. If they aren’t having any problems with their skin, have them begin washing their face with a non-alkaline cleanser. Do this at least nightly, and for an even better routine, morning and night. That’s a good start, and later down the road you can add other products (toners and moisturizers, exfoliators and masks) when needed.

At such a young age, and if no problems are present, their skin is functioning optimally and won’t need a lot of extra care. And when I say morning and night, I completely understand the likelihood of that is low. Many of my adult clients don’t wash twice a day. Hopefully you can get your kids to wash at least once and hopefully two times every day. Miracles do happen :+)

If your teens are having problems, it’s time to get them started on a good program of cleansing, exfoliating, and using a clay mask to help keep their breakouts to a minimum. Exfoliating and using a clay mask are additional steps that can help make a difference in their skin.

Numerous clients have found good results for their teenagers’ skin by following the previously mentioned steps. Not all teenagers are going to follow a skin care routine, but I have found if they see good results from following a simple program, they will be more prone to following through with it on a regular basis.

For more information, see:

• Starting your youngster on a skin care routine If by chance (or luck!) your teenager does not have any skin issues, this will give you some added tips and suggestions for a simple, daily routine.
• CLEANSERS 101 to learn more about what cleansers to use and get information on how to determine the alkalinity of any product.
• A Note to All Pickers—you know who you are!!! for more information if you just can’t stop this habit.

Stress plus going off the Pill can equal breakouts—a client profile

I’m 27 years old, and I have very oily skin. In the past, I’ve had overall good skin. I’ve always had a good regime; your 3-step program plus exfoliating and using a mask at least once a week. I also see my aesthetician every few months. But for the past 6-8 months I’ve developed a lot more breakouts. And now I have dark spots left over from the bigger blemishes.

I know more or less what is adding to my problem: I got off birth control pills about six months ago (I was on them for about two years), I just went back to school, and I work a lot of hours at my job. So my stress level is definitely high right now. I welcome any suggestions you might have. Too bad your salons are so far away from me!

This emailer exemplifies how stress can cause dramatic effects in your body, which affects your skin. She has a lot of stress from work and school, plus the added stress of going off hormone medication (the Pill). Six months ago she got off birth control pills; six months ago her skin became problematic. I tell my clients that it can take six months to a year or more for your body to readjust after going off the Pill. For some it may be a longer or shorter timeframe, and for others going off the Pill may not affect their skin at all. Patience is an important practice to exercise.

Have you recently gone off birth control pills and are now experiencing breakout? Did you just begin taking the Pill and find you have problem skin? You must question all things, including stress, as either contributing to your skin’s condition or helping it to clear. (The spots she is referring to are probably due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.)

As I will continue to say, the breakouts are there for a reason, or reasons. I like to look at problem skin as your body sending you a message, a signal that something needs to change in order for the skin to clear up. Hopefully you can identify the cause or causes of your problem skin. Remember: knowledge is power. Be honest with yourself and with how you are contributing to the breakouts. Whether it’s through diet, poor skin care habits, or something else, own up to your part of the process and take some steps to help your body free itself of the toxins it is expelling through your skin. 

Treat the system, not just the symptom.

For more information, see:

• What is Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
• “I don’t eat much sugar”—really?
• What is causing your breakouts?

Quick Tip: How to use a Toner

The following is an exact copy about how to use a toner from a section in TONERS 101: WHAT is a toner and WHY use one? Also HOW & WHEN to use a toner? It is an important tip that many people may not know about, so I include it here as well. Take a look at the full article to read more information about this important step in your daily routine.

Most likely you have always put toner on a cotton pad and gone over your face with it. Or you may have been splashing it on like an aftershave. I recommend spraying toner on your face as the optimum way of applying it. This method is quick, economical, and the most effective way to apply toner evenly onto your face. It feels refreshing as well, and you don’t need to keep cotton around.

If your toner doesn’t already come in a spray bottle (Yonka toners do), empty spray bottles are easy to find at any beauty supply or grocery store. So just purchase one, pour your toner in it, and spray away. You’ll be so happy you did! It’s a quick and easy way to apply your toner, and it also is a refreshing blast of hydration for your face. For men, this spray method will eliminate the use of cotton that tends to stick in the beard.

For more information, see:

• Do I really need to use a toner?
• TONER: What to use and what NOT to use
• TONERS 101: WHAT is a toner and WHY use one? Also HOW & WHEN to use a toner?