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Wednesday, April 26, 2017

Dark Circles Q & A

I have very dark circles that are genetic and require concealer. I have had difficulties with eye creams that don’t blend well with concealer or somehow increase the dryness or are too oily, making the concealer settle and crease in the wrinkles beneath my eyes.

I was looking at an alpha hydroxy eye cream for wrinkle prevention. I also saw an eye cream that said it helped with the dark circles. But I am not sure whether either of these would work with concealer and makeup during the day. I was hoping perhaps you could help me.

Dark circles (darkness under the eye area) is a big concern for a lot of people. Below I will answer this reader’s question part by part in hopes to make sense of how to take care of this eye area concern.

I have very dark circles that are genetic and require concealer. Genetic is the operative word here. If you know your dark circles stem from a genetic predisposition, then please know that no product, miracle or not, is going to rid you of your genetic “gifts.” How do you know if they’re genetic? Look at your parents and even their parents. If you see dark circles wherever you turn, then you are just carrying on the family tradition.

I have had difficulties with eye creams that don’t blend well with concealer or somehow increase the dryness or are too oily, making the concealer settle and crease in the wrinkles beneath my eyes. Eye cream shouldn’t make the skin around your eyes feel dry. You may be having an allergic reaction or an intolerance to one or more of the ingredients. If the eye cream makes the skin too oily, you may be putting too much on (only use a small amount, but often), or it just may be too rich a cream for your skin. When you use concealer around the eyes, it will crease inside the wrinkles no matter if you use eye cream or not. Like foundation (both contain pigment), concealer will usually accentuate the lines and wrinkles.


I was looking at an alpha hydroxy eye cream for wrinkle prevention. I also saw an eye cream that said it helped with the dark circles. But I am not sure whether either of these would work with concealer and makeup during the day. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) do help with lines and wrinkles because they decompose microscopic bits of skin, leaving the surface of your face smoother and the texture refined. They don’t prevent wrinkles—nothing really does. Creams that say they help with dark circles might help, but only to a certain degree.

As far as AHAs or creams for dark circles working with your concealer, you will have to experiment and see. After applying your eye cream, try waiting at least 5-10 minutes before putting the concealer on. This might help with some of the creasing.

I am thinking of having surgery to remove my dark circles. Do you think there is something else I can do to get rid of them?

Surgery can only take adipose (fat) from that area; it will do nothing for the capillaries or blood vessels. I am not a proponent of surgery. Toxins in our bodies will contribute to the darkness around the eyes. The skin is very thin and shows vascular changes quite easily. So, if your internal health is optimal, usually the darkness will subside, unless of course you are genetically predisposed to dark circles.

I know from personal experience that on the morning after eating sugar, I have noticeable dark circles under my eyes. I believe this is due to an inflammatory response (similar to an allergic reaction) that sugar causes in my body. The same holds true for alcohol consumption. I see the same response (dark circles) after a night of even moderate drinking.

Eating sugar, drinking alcohol, smoking cigarettes, not getting enough sleep at night, and other environmental factors can all contribute to your problem. Change what you are putting in your body (really, give this serious consideration) and see what effects it has on your dark circles.

For more information, see.

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Yonka’s discontinued Serums and their replacement Boosters

I have worked with Yonka products for over 30 years. In the last five years, this product line has gone through more changes than in the previous twenty-five. Some changes I like, others I don’t. In all of the articles I write I give you my honest opinion as an aesthetician working with this line of products. I can say that I will always continue to use Yonka-Paris products, but I hope in my heart Yonka doesn’t loose its soul with all the changes taking place.

Here are the new Booster serums that will replaces some of the oldest products and formulations in the Yonka line. In one case, Hydra+, this replaces a recently replaced product. And Defense+ is a brand new product in the line. Read on to find out about these new additions.
   


Yonka Serum is one of the oldest and most loved products in the Yonka lineup. Nutri+ booster is its replacement. 

As an aesthetician I have no say-so in the changes that take place with the products I use. It is sometimes a difficult task to encourage and support my clients to purchase and use a newer product when the “old one” was working just fine. I have yet to get a sample of this new serum, but I can only hope it hasn’t changed from the basic formulation of Yonka Serum.

Here is the information that Yonka headquarters has provided about this serum booster:

NUTRI+ (replaces Yonka Serum)

Nutrition Booster with cereal germ oils
Are you feeling tired? Is your skin lacking comfort? Bid adieu to signs of tiredness, discomfort and dryness with NURTI+. Its incredible vitamin-packed cocktail give your skin an instant boost.

Its secret: cereal germ oils with a nourishing and regenerating action, combined with the 5 Quintessence Yonka essential oils [thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary]. Now revitalized and nourished, your skin is positively glowing.

Skin is nourished: 89%
Shows a boost in energy: 74%

The percentages the company uses (based on tests Yonka has performed on real people) seem wonderful at first glance but as a professional I don’t quantify products in this way. To say a skin care treatment gives your skin a “74% boost in energy” seems not only impossible to provereallybut it just sounds ridiculous to me. Regardless, using percentages is the new way Yonka is choosing to present their product information. Perhaps you, the consumer, like this kind of language. Anywhoif Nutri+ is anything like Yonka Serum, it will be a lovely, true-oil product that will help hydrate and boost circulation in your skin.

For more information, see:


Hydra+ replaces the very recently replaced Dermols replaced by Hydralia. Confused? For years Yonka had glycerin-based hydration boosters called The Dermols (1, 2 and 3). The three different Dermol products were replaced in 2012 with one homogenized version called Hydralia. At the time, I made my thoughts known: I was disappointed that these 3 distinctly different products had all of the sudden become one. And now, Hydralia has been morphed into the new booster: Hydra-plus.

I have used this product in treatment. Like Dermol 3, Hydra+ also has blackcurrant extract. When Hydralia came out, I was disappointed Dermol 3 had been discontinued. It was great for sensitive, couperouse, and rosacea skin. With that said, the scent of Dermol 3 wasn’t everyone’s favorite. Now Hydra+ has this distinct blackcurrant aromatic. My hope is this doesn’t turn a lot of people off of Hydra-plus. I love this scent, but many people do not. Hydra+ works just like the Dermols and Hydralia did. I just hope the aromatics aren’t a turn-off to those who don’t relish the type of scent coming from blackcurrant. And since Hydra+ is replacing Hydralia, this will be the only glycerin-based, non-oily choice for adding extra hydration without increasing oil. Here is what Yonka headquarters has to say:

HYDRA+ (replaces Hydralia)

Hydration booster with blackcurrant
When your skin feels thirsty and taut, there is no time to lose. HYDRA+ is a real boost of hydrating active ingredients, including vegetable glycerin, which quenches its thirst instantly and efficiently. The 100% natural blackcurrant extract reinforces the cream's soothing feeling as soon as it is applied. Your skin is immediately softer, more comfortable and more supple.

Skin is better hydrated: +30% hydration

For more information, see:


Lift+ replaces Galbol 90. For me this is a non-event. I never used nor sold Galbol 90. I have always felt it was a superfluous product. I don’t believe a product, Yonka or not, can truly “lift” tissue that is sagging due to age and gravity. However, both this and Galbol 90 have exceptional ingredients. I just couldn’t ever find room for it in my skin care routine or recommend it to my clients. But try it and see if you get results. Let me knowI love hearing success stories!
 
LIFT+ (replaces Galbol 90)

Firmness Booster with rosemary

When your skin lacks tone, get things moving with Lift+. Core ingredients: 20 plants including rosemary with its firming and toning action, combined with the 5 Quintessence Yonka essential oils [thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary]. Skin is firmer and more toned. Face and neck shape is redefined.

Skin is firmer and toned: 90%

For more information, see:


Defense+ is a totally new product from Yonka and does not replace any existing product in the line. Can it reduce the “appearance” of wrinkles by 25%? I will let you know once I have tried this product out. I have yet to receive any in depth information from Yonka regarding Defense plus. Once I do, I will pass it on to you. 

DEFENSE+ 
Antioxidant Booster with pine tree polyphenols

UV rays, pollution, smoking, etc. Say no to the free radicals that weaken your skin and accelerates the aging process. Fight back by using Defense+. Its pine bark polyphenols, known to be incredible antioxidants, enhance your skin's resistance to external aggressions, and its cocktail of organic oils helps reconstruct the skin's protective barrier. Featuring the heart and soul of the Yonka brand DNA, 5 proprietary essential oils: Quintessence Yonka essential oils. Now resilient and better protected, your skin will become more radiant and beautiful, and signs of aging will be reduced.

Complexion is brighter: 75%
Complexion dullness is reduced: 80%
Overall wrinkle appearance: -25%



I will continue to update you on all the changes going on with Multaler, Inc/Yonka-Paris. I think change is basically good, but some changes are easier to take than others!

For more information, see: