AHAs: all links so far

alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

• AHAs in cleansers—why?

• Bumps on your arms? It could be keratosis pilaris

• Ingrown Hairs—what they are and what to do about them?

• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?

• What is topical vitamin C?

yonka’s aha products

• Alpha-Contour

• Alpha-Fluid

• Alpha-Peel

ALPHA-FLUID from Yonka-Paris (formerly Fruitelia PS)

Yonka has been making changes to their products in the last few years, and in doing so they’ve discontinued a lot of products—some favorites of mine and my clients. In some cases they just changed a name here and there and kept the products and ingredients the same. Alpha-Fluid is from that category.

Formerly Fruitelia PS (they did completely discontinue Fruitelia PNG), Alpha-Fluid is the exact same product with a different name. Why this change was made and they decided to remove the AHA product for normal to oily skin (PNG), I don’t know. Although, as you’ll read below, I’m not a huge fan of AHA products in general, for clients with problem, oily skin that was congested, Fruitelia PNG actually did a good job to help keep the congestion down. And since Fruitelia PS is specifically for a dry (oil-dry) skin type, I wouldn’t think Alpha-Fluid then would be a good choice for someone with normal to oily or problem skin. But without further questioning to which I have no answers, here is the information formerly for Fruitelia PS with the names changed to Alpha-Fluid.

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From Yonka headquarters: ALPHA-FLUID (formerly Fruitelia PS) is a moisturizer that employs the exfoliating ability of AHAs. Thanks to fruit extracts naturally rich in alpha hydroxy acids, this creamy emulsion is quickly absorbed and gently renews as it hydrates and revitalizes the skin. This cream stimulates the renewal of the epidermis, smoothes wrinkles and fine lines, softens the complexion, and restores the skin’s natural glow and freshness. Alpha-Fluid leaves your complexion clear, reduces roughness, and smooths out wrinkles and fine lines.

As many of you know, I’m not a fan of AHAs—for the most part. In certain circumstances they can definitely help skin. Where AHAs along with other acid products fall short for me is their action on the delicate capillaries of the face. Acids irritate; that is a normal response to an acidic compound. With the irritation comes a dilation of the capillaries. On paper, that isn’t much of an issue, but in practice it can cause or further redness in even those without much redness in their skin.

I have used Yonka products for over 30 years. When the Fruitelia products came out about 15 years ago, I wasn’t a huge fan. And now, all these years later, I am still not a fan. I have seen a progression of redness in the skin of my clients who love to use this product or a new client who has been instructed to use this AHA cream. I have only a handful of clients on this cream, which has pretty much been the case since these 2 creams were announced because of the reasons I have just given—the beginning of redness or the furthering of redness in people’s skin. It just isn’t a product I reach for. With that said I know many aestheticians love this and other AHA products. 

I’m a big believer in trying things to see if you like them and if they work for your skin. If you are sold on the benefits of AHAs, then by all means, try Yonka’s Alpha-Fluid. However if you notice more redness in your skin after using this cream, please discontinue use and choose a Yonka product that won’t threaten the sensitivity of your capillaries.

*Remember: Alpha-Fluid is the former Fruitelia PS*

Essential ingredients:

• Lemon, orange, sugar cane, maple, blueberry, rich in AHA (fruit acids)—anti-wrinkles, renovating, hydrating 
• Mimosa tenuiflora, marine peptides—regenerating, smoothing 
• Cereal germ oil—nourishing, protecting 
• Rice oil, vitamin E—antioxidants 
• Wild pansies—astringent, purifying
• Calendula—soothing, softening[PS version]
• Titanium dioxide—physically blocks harmful UV rays 
• Essential oils of grapefruit and geranium—regenerating 

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply a pea-sized dollop of ALPHA-FLUID over face and neck 
• Then use eye cream

For more information, see:

• Yonka—Discontinued: All links so far
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?
• Sensitive Skin explained  

Ingrown Hairs—what they are and what to do about them?

Ingrown hairs are basically hairs that have lost their way. Instead of moving directly up the hair follicle, which is cylindrical like a tunnel, the hair curls around and remains either close to the surface of the skin or actually makes its way back down to the base of the follicle. This inability to reach the skin’s surface and eventual exit above it causes an ingrown hair.

Ingrown hairs are a problem for many people, but men tend to have the most trouble with ingrown hairs on their faces, which look like irritated bumps on the skin. This is especially true for African-American men because dark-skinned people generally have curly and coarse hair. Curlier hair has a more difficult time finding the surface of the skin. These ingrown hairs may cause inflammation to occur, which is a condition called pseudofolliculitis barbae.

Ingrown hairs generally form after the hair in a particular area has been cut, waxed, or in some other way removed. Some say that pulling the hair out against the natural grain (most waxing procedures follow this rule) can cause the hair to break just below the surface. Then when the dead cells set in, the hair can’t find an exit, causing an ingrown hair.

Exfoliation is really important if you’re prone to ingrown hairs—no matter where you get them. If they occur on your face, using a scrub or other exfoliator on a regular basis should help to alleviate the problem. This is where alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) may come in handy. Several of my male clients have seen good results with their ingrown hair problems by using products that contain this ingredient. AHAs help to dissolve the intercellular glue that holds cells together, which can be helpful in the case of ingrown hairs. AHAs may work well for women who find ingrown hairs are a problem in the bikini line area.

Women who get ingrown hairs on their legs can try using AHAs, but because of the large surface area of the legs this could get quite expensive. Using exfoliation gloves may be your best bet. The gloves give you the ability to regulate pressure and therefore not irritate the skin. Do be careful not to rub too hard with these gloves. They are abrasive and too much of a good thing can turn bad.

Exfoliation gloves can be found at most stores where cosmetics are sold. They’re easy to use and are machine washable. Unlike a loofah, you can get them clean and bacteria free between uses. They aren’t very expensive so you could get several pairs and just throw them in the wash after each use. They make great gifts too. Put them in a basket with bath and body products and maybe a scented candle, and you will make someone very happy.

If you have irritation bumps with the ingrown hairs, be careful when you shave over this area. You can easily break open the skin and cause further irritation and possibly spread infection.

A product called TendSkin (see upcoming post) has been helpful for some people with ingrown hairs. Be careful to follow the directions and do not use on a large area of the face. Men’s skin tends to be less sensitive than women’s, but even so, if you are a man and have ingrown hair in your beard area, be careful to apply this product appropriately. If you experience irritation with TendSkin, discontinue use immediately and refer back to some other products and techniques for helping with ingrown hairs. You don’t ever want to use a product that is causing more harm than good.

In the end, no matter where the ingrown hairs are forming, exfoliation is the best course of treatment before trying to remove them. Read other posts on this frustrating condition: , What are razor bumps?, and many more articles under the category hair removal.

For more information, see:

• Ingrown Hair—Men’s Edition: Q & A
• Tend Skin Lotion for problems with ingrown hair
• Hair removal options

Yonka’s ALPHA-PEEL—AHA renewing gel (formerly Alpha-Complex)

UPDATE: 2017
Alpha-Complex has a new name: ALPHA-PEEL. I was told the formulation has not changed, only the name. Therefore I will simply change all references to Alpha Complex to the rebranded name, Alpha-Peel.

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From Yonka headquarters:
ALPHA-PEEL is an AHA resurfacing, regenerating, anti-wrinkles concentrate. With an 8% concentration of AHA-rich fruit extracts, this renewing gel gently eliminates dead cell buildup that accumulates and can cause clogged pores and dehydration. It reveals a new fresh radiant skin, with smoothed wrinkles and lines, with refined texture.

As you may already know, if you have redness, irritation, rosacea, couperose, or sensitive skin, I would use this or any other AHA product with caution. Due to the acid compounds in this or products like it, AHAs can exacerbate any red, irritated skin condition, especially couperose and rosacea. Don’t trade one thing (smoother skin) for another (skin irritation). There is another way to exfoliate that is actually preferable—for everyone (in my opinion), which is Yonka’s Gommage. See link below.

Essential ingredients:

• Botanical AHA’s 8% (glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and citric acids)—exfoliating, refining, hydrating, stimulates cell renewal
• Mimosa bark extract—regenerating, speeds healing, remineralizes, antioxidant
• Aloe vera—regenerating, soothing
• Hyaluronic acid—hydrating
• Beech tree extract—enzymatic action on cell renewal
• Vitamin B-5 (panthenol)—stimulates the metabolism

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply ALPHA-PEEL to the face and neck
• Avoid the lips and eyelids
• Use day or night treatment cream over the gel
• Apply eye cream

Note: You may experience a slight tingling sensation the first few times the product is applied. If you ever, with this or any product, feel a burning sensation, quickly remove the product (probably best to use your facial cleanser) and apply a soothing, cool compress.

For more information, see:

• What IS Gommage?
• GOMMAGE YONKA—Soft Peel Miracle
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?

What is topical vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a very important vitamin—internally. It is neither manufactured nor stored in the body, so you must get it daily from food or from supplements. Vitamin C is also important to healthy skin. It is an antioxidant, meaning it helps to keep free radicals from invading your cells’ oxygen stores. And vitamin C helps in the formation of collagen.

It sounds great to think you can apply a topical product to the skin and have it penetrate down to the inner skin or dermis, affecting the collagen fibers. But there is no evidence to show that vitamin C can penetrate down that far into the true skin. However, because topical vitamin C products are generally made with citric acid, they can help to smooth texture and decompose cells (exfoliate). Remember, citric acid is in the alpha hydroxy acid family. So using vitamin C topically may help with exfoliation, but it is doubtful that anything more than that will occur. Also, the acidic nature of topical vitamin C may cause skin sensitivity and possibly redness.

I recommend getting adequate amounts of vitamin C in your diet. I do not believe in the abilities of a product, in this case topical vitamin C, to work miracles where miracles are virtually impossible. Your skin acts as a barrier, keeping foreign substances from entering your body. Keep in mind that if a cream or ointment has the ability to cause a structural change to the skin, especially in the basal layer and down into the dermis, it will be classified by the FDA as a medicine or drug, not just a cosmetic. Drugs are dispensed by prescription only.

I have yet to meet a client who has had any sizable results from using a topical vitamin C product. Many agree that these products are expensive and do not deliver the expected results. In many cases the vitamin C caused sensitivity in even non-sensitive skins.

As an example of someone who not only loves these types of products but who is also possibly incurring damage, years ago while I was getting ready to do a national TV show, one of the producers said she used and loved vitamin C products. As I was speaking with her, I couldn’t help noticing she had a lot of capillary damage on her cheeks. It gave her a rosy glow, but it was still capillary damage. I recommended she discontinue using the C products to try to halt the progression of the redness.

She did say she already had some capillary damage before she started using the C products. She probably had sun damage, which definitely can cause capillary issues, and was using the vitamin C product to help combat premature aging from the sun. I would still recommend not using the acid product—even if just for an experimental period—to see if the redness diminished. If it did, this would be a sure indication that the topical vitamin C was causing more redness and probably more capillary damage.

Acids irritate; that is a fact and a function of what they do. Is the irritation and subsequent redness worth any “anti-aging” benefits vitamin C products may or may not provide? Perhaps today your answer will be yes. But remember that years from now you will probably, naturally, have some capillary damage due to sun expose and just plain age. Please use caution when using these kinds of acidic compounds along with any products or procedures that may cause capillary dilation and damage. Keep tabs on how your skin looks and feels and proceed accordingly.

For more information, see:

• Emergen-C—a little effervescence for your health (for an easy way to get vitamin C in your daily diet)
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A

AHAs in cleansers—why?

I find it so interesting and curious when I see alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in certain facial products. Why do manufacturers put AHAs into cleansers? Cleansers are on your skin only briefly, 10-20 seconds tops. A moisturizing product is on your skin for almost 24 hours per day. If you are using alpha hydroxy acids for their intended purpose (exfoliation), doesn’t it make more sense to use creams that contain AHAs rather than cleansers? If you are going to use a cleanser with AHAs (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing just superfluous, in my opinion), don’t spend more money for these special ingredients.

For more information, see:

• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?
• Do I really need to clean my face?
• CLEANSERS 101: What IS a cleanser? What to look for and what NOT to use—updated

Yonka’s Eye Treatment Creams & Gels

Yonka has created three wonderful eye creams:

• Nutri-Contour
• Phyto-Contour
• Alpha-Contour

Each one has many attributes; all are wonderful for keeping the eye area hydrated and nourished. If you are not clear on the purpose of using eye cream, please see EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product (link below).

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NUTRI-CONTOUR is the eye treatment I recommend to my clients most often. The reason is because it is hydrating, preventing that delicate eye area from dryness and the appearance of wrinkles.

It is an oil-based cream vs. a water-based gel, giving it lasting ability. Optimal use is morning and evening—at least, and any time in between. I instruct my clients to simply feel the skin under their eyes. If it feels dry, then apply more eye cream, even if it is in addition to your regular morning and evening application during your Basics routine.

From Yonka headquarters:
NUTRI-CONTOUR repairing eye, lip cream is an anti-free radical cream rich in antioxidant vitamins. It successfully delays aging signs and helps diminish the appearance of expression lines. The perfect eye-lip daily shield, loaded with moisture. Essential vitamins are replenished into the eye and lip contours, warding off dehydration and wrinkles. Perfect for every day use; doesn’t leave delicate tissues with a heavy greasy feeling.

Essential ingredients:

• Hazelnut oil—repairing, nourishing
• Chamomile, vitamin PP—soothing, softening
• Vitamin F—prevents dehydration
• Vitamin E—antioxidant

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of NUTRI-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles. Sorry!

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ALPHA-CONTOUR. I love this eye gel. It goes on smoothly and feels fresh and wonderful.

In general, gels have less long-term hydrating abilities than creams. Gels are water-based; creams are oil-based. However I love the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) content in this gel. AHAs help to dislodge dead skin that is sticking together, basically helping to exfoliate skin merely by its application.

I’m not a huge fan of AHAs, as you might have read in previous articles, however for the undereye area I do think AHAs are a worthwhile ingredient. If you want to learn more about why I’m not in favor of using these acids on the face, read What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not? (See link below.)

I have several clients (myself, included) who use Alpha-Contour for their nasolabial folds (smile lines) and the vertical lines above the lips. Because it’s a gel, it soaks in quickly and isn’t heavy like a cream would be—especially on the upper lip area. Like any cream (or gel) this product will not erase wrinkles, but due to Alpha-Contour’s AHA content, it can help to make the lines look less noticeable. And truly, with the exfoliation benefits of AHAs, Alpha-Contour can indeed help to lessen the lines.

I like this gel eye treatment better in the warmer, summer months. I usually recommend Nutri-Contour for most clients in the winter. A cream stays on longer and gives more moisture than a gel will (this gel, included), and in Colorado, because of the dry air, we need all the help we can get when it comes to moisturizing. But don’t let that stop you from using this eye gel. It really is a personal favorite.

From Yonka headquarters:

ALPHA-CONTOUR for wrinkles and fine lines is an avant-garde technology gel for eyes and lips that insures the utmost avoidance against the aging process. It helps to eliminate aging cells and replenishes moisture to skin. This lightweight gel works to actively reduce frown lines and furrows and instantly melts pleasantly into the skin.

Alpha-Contour works with aging skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin starting to show the negative signs of aging around the delicate eyes and lips can benefit from continuous use. Botanical AHA’s found in this gel stimulate cell renewal to help skin heal itself from the inside out 

Essential ingredients:

• AHAs (fruit acids from lemon, orange, sugar cane, maple, and blueberry)—anti-wrinkle, renovating, hydrating
• Hyaluronic acid—hydrating
• Mimosa tenuiflora, marine peptides—regenerating, smoothing
• Essential oil of peppermint—refreshing
• Essential oil of lavender—calming   

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of ALPHA-CONTOUR gel on lines around eyes (and if you want to, the upper lip area, as mentioned above)
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Remember: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft; they do not erase wrinkles!

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PHYTO-CONTOUR is a treatment cream formulated specifically for puffiness and dark circles. Because this is in a cream base, Phyto-Contour is also hydrating to that delicate under-eye area. It has a high concentration of rosemary essential oil. This make the cream aromatic and can cause tearing in some people.

Yonka recommends the following when using Phyto-Contour—“To give the rosemary fragrance time to dissipate, and to prevent tearing, keep your eyes closed during application.” 

Unless you are applying a thick layer of this eye treatment, I think you will be OK to keep your eyes open. I will, however, recommend that you use caution if you wear contacts. Some people do “tear up” with the rosemary essence, so be careful. But do use this wonderful, aromatic eye cream. It is oh, so Yonka and oh, so wonderful

From Yonka headquarters:
PHYTO-CONTOUR for puffiness and dark circles is a delicate eye cream that works deep down to produce an immediate sensation of freshness. This cream uses extracts of rosemary to visibly decongest fluid buildup and lines around the eyes. Dark under-eye circles are lightened, giving an appearance of alert, awake eyes. Under-eye bumps are alleviated and the delicate skin around the eye is visibly lifted.

 
Phyto-Contour works hard to decongest puffy, tired eyes. The multi-purpose works to guarantee a visible lift and imparts a soothing de-stressing sensation while lightening dark circles under the eyes. 

Essential ingredients:

• Rosemary—firming, toning, draining 
• Beech bud peptides—restructuring, smoothing
• Aloe vera, plant glycerin—hydrating
• Vitamin E—antioxidant  

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of PHYTO-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes and/or where you experience puffiness
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

For extreme puffiness, like after an evening of too much sugar, wine, or even crying, see An effective treatment for puffy eyes using Yonka’s Phyto Contour for a “morning method” of using this anti-puffiness eye treatment. Phyto-Contour can really help to reduce edema (puffiness) and even lessen dark circles—temporarily, but definitely noticeably.

For the last time: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles! No matter which Yonka eye cream you use—or perhaps an eye treatment from a different product line—use eye cream! It is an important step in your daily skin care routine.

For more information on eye creams along with links to the articles mentioned above, see:

• EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product
• Will my puffy eyes ever go away? Help!
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?

What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?

Exfoliating is the most important thing you can do for your skin. Getting rid of the mounting dead cell layers will go a long way to restoring and maintaining healthy skin. Exfoliation gives your skin more clarity, cleaner pores, and a much smoother texture. Alpha hydroxy acids are one way to achieve this well-exfoliated surface.

Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, dissolve the intercellular cement that binds your skin cells together. These acids essentially loosen the glue between the cells, allowing them to slough off more readily. This creates smoother skin, steps up circulation, and can lessen the lines caused from dehydration. I’m referring to superficial lines—not deep wrinkles. The results vary, but in general you should experience an improvement in the texture of your skin with the use of AHAs. They really can make the surface of your skin incredibly smooth, which helps with the dehydrated (dry) feeling that is so common. You may also experience less debris clogging your pores after using AHA products. I have seen this type of improvement in some of my clients with chronic congestion problems.

Alpha hydroxy acids are sometimes termed fruit acids since several of the acids come from fruit sources. There are many different kinds of AHAs available for use in skin care products. Some of these acids are glycolic, derived from sugarcane; lactic, from sour milk and other sources such as bilberry or passion fruit; tartaric, from grapes and aged wine; and citric, from citrus fruits such as lemon and orange.

AHAs are what I term passive exfoliators. Just by the mere fact that they are sitting on your skin, they are helping to decompose cells, leading to a smoother texture. But it is my belief you still need to actively exfoliate (with a gommage or scrub) on a regular basis to get the optimum effects from passive exfoliation. In doing so, you help to eliminate much more of the buildup that the AHAs have broken down.

For example, let’s say you pour paint thinner (AHAs) on a sidewalk (your skin) covered with paint (dead skin cells). The paint thinner dissolves and breaks up a lot of the paint, but until you get a hose and really blast the sidewalk with a powerful stream of water (an active exfoliator), the decomposed paint just sits there. Putting AHAs on your skin helps to decompose skin cells, but until you actively exfoliate, you are only doing half the job—and only receiving half the results.

If you are prone to couperose (capillary damage) or if you have sensitive skin, be careful with AHAs. And if you have rosacea, AHAs are definitely out! Their acidic nature makes them an irritant, which can cause a mild to strong burning sensation on skin that is sensitive. I have found AHAs also heighten redness in my clients with couperose. In some cases where the AHAs are really helping to unclog pores, the payoff is greater than the slight redness it may be causing. Just be aware AHAs can cause further damage to the fragile capillaries. If you continue to feel a stinging or burning sensation when using AHAs, I’d take the hint and stop using them. As prevalent as alpha hydroxy acids are, they are not for everyone. Listen to the clues your skin is giving you.

Something else that is a point of concern is the use of “mono acids” (meaning one). Glycolic is probably the most commonly used mono alpha hydroxy acid. When you continue to use an acidic compound over a long period of time (especially in high strengths) thinking that if a little is good then more is even better, it can be too severe for your skin to tolerate. Your skin can become irritated, which in turn can cause edema (water retention or puffiness). This reaction can cause a negative breakdown of healthy tissue, not just the decomposing of surface dead cells. There are companies who recognize this dilemma and are putting out multiacid AHA products. Using multiple acid formulas is preferable to mono acid products because you are utilizing acid compounds from several sources instead of just one. In the long run, the skin will react better to this variety.

How strong is too strong? Lower-strength (3% or less) AHA compounds do not present a threat to the health of your skin and can be used daily without concern. When using high-strength AHAs (10% or more), it is much better to use them on a semiregular basis rather than using them every day. Again, high-strength products can become too much of a good thing.

Many AHAs on the market—especially glycolics—are synthetic. One of the large chemical companies here in the U.S. produces most commercial-grade glycolic. The technology was first developed for glycolic acid to be produced from sugarcane, its organic source. Then synthetics were substituted. My personal preference is organic over synthetic. You get the whole synergistic effect of the natural extract instead of an imitation. If the AHAs in a product come from organic sources, most likely they will state that on the ingredient list.

Another thing you may have heard about is BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids. The basic difference between AHAs and BHAs is this: AHAs dissolve intercellular cement—the gluelike substance that binds cells together. BHAs break down the cells themselves. Betas dissolve dead tissue with a protein-dissolving action similar to enzymes, like papaya and bromaline (from pineapple). Salicylic acid, for instance, is a beta hydroxy acid derived from willow bark.

Compared to many of the trends and fads on the market today that are of no benefit, I think AHAs and BHAs are actually beneficial. They’re not for everybody, but they can give you good results without incurring too much, if any, damage. The premise behind many of the products and procedures in skin care is to exfoliate the skin, and alpha hydroxy acids deliver. They aren’t the be-all and end-all, and they certainly don’t take the place of actively exfoliating and deep cleaning your skin, but AHAs can smooth your complexion and help keep your pores from clogging as well as providing your skin with a healthy, radiant appearance.

For more information, see:

• Retin-A—some basic info
• What are glycolic peels
• Couperouse Skin explained