Yonka’s LIFT+ (formerly Galbol 90)—firming, hydrating concentrate

UPDATE 2017:
LIFT+ is the rebranded product that replaces Galbol 90. Same product, different name.

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LIFT+ from Yonka headquarters: With the combined effects of 20 plant extracts that promote firming, regeneration and hydration, this non-greasy concentrated fluid is quick to absorb and provides top level strength and firmness for skin that is lacking in tone. The epidermis [outer skin] becomes smoother and tightens. Lift+ reveals a fresh radiant skin, with smoothed wrinkles and lines, and refined texture.

Admittedly, I don’t sell much Lift+. Although I think it has many attributes, I am not (as you may know from reading my blog) a big believer in changing—dramatically, anyway—the natural coarse of the skin. This includes gravity’s pull and the eventual sagging of tissue. So the “firming” abilities of this product are something I cannot vouch for. And as far as it having hydrating abilities, there are several other Yonka products that will do a better job of adding moisture to your skin (see link below). However, Lift+ does have many wonderful ingredients. Don’t let me stop you from trying this anti-aging concentrate. Not every product is for every person, but Lift+ might just be the product for you.

Essential ingredients:

• Hops—regenerating
• Sage—tightens, supports skin’s structure
• Hypericum—restorative, balancing
• White nettle—reinforces tensile strength
• PCA, plant glycerin—hydrating
• Yarrow—firming, astringent
• Silicium derivative—toning, strengthens the tissues 
• St. John’s Wort, coltsfoot—regenerating
• Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary) 

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Pump the bottle of LIFT+ concentrate 3 to 4 times
• Apply to the face and neck. Pressing it on, due to its liquid nature, is probably best
• Then use your day or night cream
• Apply eye cream

For more information, see:

• Yonka’s discontinued Serums and their replacement Boosters
• MYTH: The Fountain of Youth exists...really!
• Yonka Serums & Concentrates: all links so far

True-Dry Skin explained—again + Q & A

Dry skin, or what I call true-dry (oil-dry) skin, is a condition where your sebaceous (oil) glands are not producing enough oil to lubricate your outer skin. The outer skin is kept moisturized by both water at the surface (and from the air) as well as sebum being excreted from your oil glands. Simply put, true-dry skin does not produce enough oil to keep the outer skin moist.

True-dry skin needs to be artificially lubricated with moisturizing creams, so you want to keep high-quality moisturizers on at all times. True-dry skin needs exfoliation as well since any dead cell buildup will make the skin feel even drier.

True-dry skin can be a frustrating condition, especially if you are not using products that are moisturizing enough. Once your skin stops producing enough oil to keep the surface of your face moisturized, tightness and perhaps even flakiness can be a part of your everyday life.

I’m not a soap lover, but someone with true-dry skin really should avoid soap at all costs. This alkaline product will just make your already dry skin feel drier. Many gel cleansers have a foaming action, and these can also be too drying if you have dry skin. The best cleansers to use are cream washes or milk cleansers. These generally will not strip your skin and shouldn’t leave your face feeling dry after cleansing.

Always use a toner—without alcohol, of course! I recommend finding one with moisturizing ingredients in it, like glycerin. And your moisturizers (day and night creams) should have quality vegetal oils in them that will ensure a good all-day or all-night hydration for your oil-deficient skin.

Note: If you don’t have true-dry skin, none of the above recommendation are for you! Even if your skin feels dry. Dry skin—true-dry—simply doesn’t produce enough oil to lubricate the skin’s surface and therefore needs special products to super-hydrate and moisturize.

I recently purchased some products for dry skin as well as an oil-based serum for hydration. I have been mixing a drop of the serum with the moisturizers and have even tried using the night cream during the day. I have also been exfoliating and using a glycerin-based toner for dry skin. My skin is still very dry and flaky. I have been using Ponds® cream during the day and Vaseline® at night. A dermatologist told me to use the Vaseline, and it worked pretty well, but my pores stayed clogged.

Instead of putting one drop of the serum into your creams, try putting five or so drops on your face before applying your creams. In other words, cleanse, tone, apply five or more drops of serum to your entire face, massage the oil in, and then apply your day or night cream over that. And if you feel like you need it, go ahead and add some of the oil to your moisturizers as well. If you are using a glycerin-based serum or even a vegetable oil-based product, these shouldn’t cause you to become clogged (as long as you have true-dry skin).

Vaseline and anything else that has a high concentration of petroleum will usually clog the pores. These substances have a large molecular structure and aren’t able to penetrate the skin. They remain on the surface as occlusive covers. This not only can clog the pores, but it also inhibits your skin’s natural elimination and absorption action.

If you think you have dry skin because it feels dry but you still have oil-based problems (most notably breakout and/or blackheads), there are numerous articles on this blog detailing dehydrated skin along with many other skin conditions. Without accurate information, you might make mistakes when picking out products for your skin.

For more information, see:

• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Is Your Skin Truly Dry or Just Thirsty?
• Determining Skin Type

MYTH: White lab coats mean excellence in a facial salon

White lab coats. They are supposed to connote cleanliness, even more so a medical environment. But white lab coats are simply white articles of clothing. I have seen for myself that sometimes a salon is trying to create a pseudo-medical atmosphere by wearing lab coats.

The medical community commands a certain level of respect and credibility, and we automatically associate lab coats with medicine. One of the buzz words in the skin care industry is “paramedical” and in my opinion, medicine has very little to do with facials and this type of topical skin care.

Not that medicine doesn’t have a place in many facets of life, but a facial is not supposed to be a medical procedure. It’s a relaxing treatment of topical (and cumulative) value to the skin. Any treatment going deeper than the surface skin is probably more of a medical procedure and should be performed by a medical doctor.

I’m certainly not saying that there is anything inherently wrong with aestheticians wearing while lab coats, but as a prospective client, look beyond what you see and ask lots of questions.

For more information, see:

• Myths Dispelled: all links so far
• One facial experience—not a great one
• What to expect in a facial treatment

Winterizing Dos and Don’ts to Keep Your Skin Happy, Healthy, and Hydrated

It’s 20 degrees outside, but inside your home it feels like summertime. You look in the mirror and, to your horror, you look 20 years older. As if that wasn’t bad enough, your legs look like an alligator traded skin with you while you were sleeping. Are you plagued with dry, flaky skin that itches, looks red, and just feels uncomfortable? If so, read on to see what you can do (and what you should stop doing) to help your skin get through another blistery winter.

First things first. The “dryness” you feel on your face (and you may see as flaky skin) is most likely not technically “dry skin.” It is probably dehydrated skin. For a quick skin type primer: True-dry skin is oil dry. In other words you don’t emit enough oil naturally, and therefore don’t have blackheads, whiteheads, or breakouts. Dehydrated skin is water dry. Anyone (true-dry, oily, even problem/acne) can have dehydrated skin. If your skin looks flaky and feels tight, that is dehydration. This is true for the skin on your body as well.

Now for a quick explanation of what causes dehydration: Cold, dry air (like what you’d experience outside in a cold winter climate—or any day in Colorado) or hot, dry air (like the kind in a house that feels like summertime inside, even when it’s 20 degrees outside). In other words, all the conditions of a chilly winter season make your skin a prime target for dehydration. Following are some of the dos and don’ts to keep your skin healthy, happy, and hydrated throughout wintertime.

DO use a humidifier to help keep the air in your (warm) home moist. If you don’t want one in your living room, be sure to use a humidifier at night in your bedroom (and your children’s bedrooms—it’ll help keep them from getting sick). You’re sleeping, hopefully, 6-8 hours each night. The moist air from the machine will definitely improve the hydration level of your skin. And not just your face, but your whole body!

DO exfoliate your skin—all over! Use a body scrub (a sugar scrub is great!) or loofah sponge for your body and try a gel exfoliator, like Yonka’s Gommage, for your face. Facial scrubs and enzyme peels can also be used on your face. Exfoliating gets rid of the surface dead skin, revealing the soft, moist skin underneath. This will make your skin feel less tight and dried out. This step is essential, so exfoliate 2-3 time per week!

DON’T use a heavier moisturizer to hydrate your skin. Although in theory this sounds good, in reality it can clog your pores and cause breakout. If you have true-dry (oil-dry) skin, you may be able to get away with using a thicker cream. But if you still get blackheads and especially if you break out, do not use a heavy moisturizer. Exfoliating will go a long way to helping your day and night cream(s) do their job by alleviating excess dead skin that can make your face feel like it needs a heavy product.

DO use hydration helpers in your moisturizers. Add several drops of glycerin to your creams (day and night). Glycerin helps to add moisture to your creams without adding extra oil. Adding more oil to an already oilier skin type would mean catastrophe. I found a glycerin and rosewater product at a local drug store and put it in a plastic bottle with a dropper. Five to ten drops should be enough. Yonka makes a wonderful glycerin product that also includes many essential oils: Hydralia (see link explaining in full this product below).

Another hydration helper for your dried out winter skin is aloe vera gel, which can be found at most grocery or health food stores. Cleanse, use your toner, then apply a generous amount of aloe vera gel to your face and neck. Let it dry, then put on your moisturizer over that. Aloe is 99% water, so it helps hydrate your outer skin throughout the day. There are several articles about aloe on this blogsite.

DON’T use hot water. Hot water, whether in the shower or a bath, evaporates moisture from the skin, which definitely causes dehydration. But I love hot baths. They work wonders to warm my whole body up when I’m cold. In other articles about how to take care of your skin in the winter, they say not to take hot baths. OK for them, but not me! Call me crazy, but I’m just not going to take a cool shower or bath in the dead of winter! Bring on the hot water! 

To combat what the hot water may be removing from your skin, DO use oils. Adding a few capfuls (4-5 tablespoons) of oil to your bath will take away the alligator look to your skin. You could use expensive bath oils, extra virgin olive oil that your cook with, or even inexpensive baby oil. Since oil is lighter than water and will float on the surface, be sure to massage the water and oil into your skin while in the bathtub. The oil will help to lock in high levels of moisture to your skin. Be sure not to slip and fall when you get out of the tub, and wipe the excess oil off the tub to insure no one after you will have an accident. (Seriously, this is important!)

You can take the same oils as mentioned above and massage them into your skin while you’re in the shower. Don’t use these oils on your face, they are too heavy for that skin and could cause breakout. When you get out of the shower or bath, just pat your skin dry vs. rubbing. If you rub, you will take all that precious oil off your skin.

Oatmeal is another great skin hydrater. Aveeno makes oatmeal bath treatments that come in convenient packets. Just pop one into the bath and enjoy hydrated, less itchy and dry skin. This treatment is also great for sunburns and eczema. 

Winterizing your skin doesn’t take a lot of time or effort, but if you don’t do something to combat the cold, winter conditions your skin will suffer. So hydrate, exfoliate and enjoy another winter, wherever you live.

For more tips and information, see:

• Are you a “Bath Person”? 
• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Is your face in need of extra hydration? Try Yonka’s Hydralia or Advanced Optimizer Serum

Yonka’s CREME 93—for normal to oily skin

CREME 93 is a balancing, protecting hydrating cream that is smooth and fast-absorbing; Creme 93 is perfect for skin that is producing a bit too much oil. This regulating cream, with its delicate aroma of ylang-ylang, restores and preserves the balance of normal to combination skin, purifies the complexion, and controls T-zone shine.

From Yonka headquarters: Balance combination skin with this purifying age prevention cream that mattifies, protects, and normalizes and helps set makeup. Vitamin-enriched with a delicate and natural aroma, this balancing cream treatment features the essential oils of lime and Indonesian white flowers as well as anti-oxidant vitamins that protect from free radical damage. Clean, mattified skin and perfect makeup hold.

Years ago, Yonka changed the formulation for this cream—thankfully. Before that I rarely recommended Creme 93; now I have many clients using this oil-regulating cream. When I had normal to oily skin, I used this cream and loved it. Admittedly, I am a fan of the essential oil ylang-ylang. It has a lovely, sweet aromatic. More importantly, ylang-ylang does an excellent job of helping to balance oil secretions, making an oilier skin feel less oily. I highly recommend Creme 93.

Essential ingredients:

• Essential oils of lime and ylang-ylang—purifying, balancing
• Vitamins C and E—antioxidants
• Vitamin A—regenerating
• Olive oil—protecting 
• Yonka “Quintessence” (essential oils of thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary)—purifying, balancing

Directions for use:

In the morning and/or evening:

• After cleansing and spraying on Yonka Lotion toner
• Apply a pea-sized dollop of CREME 93 over face and neck
• Then use eye cream

For more information, see:

• What moisturizer should I use?
• Yonka Moisturizers: all links so far

How NOT to apply eye cream

I don’t recommend applying cream on the upper eyelid. Read why:

Where one should apply their eye cream seems to be a big mystery to a lot of people. Looking over photos on the Internet reinforces my opinion that most people apply it incorrectly. I have included some photos from what look like homemade how-tos in order to give you my take on how to—or rather how not to apply your eye cream.

There are several things that are wrong about the eye cream application in the photo above. I will say, however, that perhaps the cream was applied how and where it was for the sake of the photograph—to show up better. But since I wasn’t at this lady’s home when she took the photo, I will give a critique of how it looks like she was going to apply her eye cream and why you don’t want to do it this way.

First of all, she has applied way too much product. The skin around your eyes is the thinnest anywhere on your body. Therefore it cannot absorb much of anything—including a thick, emollient hydrating cream. Less is more when it comes to how much eye cream to apply.

Next is where she has applied it. Actually—no. I really can’t get past how much cream she has used! Once she pats that into her skin, well patting probably won’t work. There is just too much product!

The young woman in this image has also applied way too much cream and, similar to the first photo, not in the right areas. First, using too much product can and will cause edema (puffiness) because the skin is thin around the eyes and it simply cannot absorb much cream. Next, you really don’t need to apply your eye cream so far into the nose area. Look in the mirror, squint, and where your lines are forming is essentially where you want the eye cream to go. Applying cream in the middle part of the eye area toward the nose may also cause edema or even dark circles. This tissue doesn’t have the capability of taking in all of that cream. 

I don’t recommend applying eye creams above your eyes, on your upper eyelids, because it leaves the potential for the eye cream to migrate (move) down into your eyes. If you apply eye cream on your eyelid at night before going to bed, that would be OK. You will be asleep with your eyes closed all night so the cream should stay put. But then again, why apply eye cream on an area that simply doesn’t need it? Your eyelid doesn’t generally wrinkle or age. It’s under the eyes that you want to put the eye treatment you’re using—where your wrinkles are forming. This is where you want to apply eye cream.

For more information, see:

• EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product
• Eye Creams 101: What to use?
• The Forgotten Places: The Eye Area

Yonka-Paris HYDRA N°1 products: CREME, FLUID & SERUM

This new group of Hydra products from Yonka is interesting. Admittedly, I am a diehard, old school Yonka user. I love the aromatics of their original products and I miss some of the items they have discontinued in recent years.

With that said, I do like the Hydra collection. I think they work best for a 25-45 year-old age range. For me, at 55, I didn’t feel they were hydrating enough—even when used with my most favorite product: Optimizer Serum. Perhaps in the summer months they will work for a drier (oil-dry) skin type; that just wasn’t the case for me. However—I do live in the (very) dry air of Colorado, so the lack of moisture on the skin is definitely exaggerated here.

Give these Hydra products a try. They are high-quality Yonka-made products. They do have nice aromatics, which is always a plus. They will help your skin look and feel its best.

The following information is from Yonka headquarters:

HYDRA N°1 CREME—Best for repairing and hydrating dry, sensitive, and dehydrated skin. Hydra N°1 repairs skin’s natural protective barrier to restore its ability to maintain optimal moisture while relieving dehydration. Forming a soothing, hydrating veil, Hydra N°1 Creme also repairs damage and increases firmness for a smoother, brighter, and more youthful complexion.



Restores skin’s defensive barrier to prevent dehydration. Immediately replenishes moisture. Soothes irritation and redness. Firms, providing anti-aging benefits. Paraben-free and non-comedogenic.

Reinforce your skin as a natural barrier with this hydrating cream moisturizer that is specially formulated for dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skin* conditions. Vitamin-enriched, it infuses the skin with age-fighting and repairing ingredients to prevent visible signs of aging caused by dehydration. This comforting cocoon also works against environmental pollutants and is most effective when paired with Hydra N°1 Serum. 

*This is where I have to part ways with what skin types this or any cream is meant for. Dry—true-dry/oil-dry—skin is a very specific condition. This is a skin that lacks oil production. Dehydrated skin could be any skin type: acne, oily, normal to oily, or oil-dry skin. The same is true for sensitive skin—it could be acne, oily or true-dry. As I’ve written in many articles, you first need to determine your skin type (true-dry, oily, etc.) before choosing a cream to use. Sensitive and dehydrated are conditions that may require particular products, but it’s the oil content of your skin that needs to be addressed first.
 

Essential ingredients:

• Hyaluronic acid, imperata cylindrica, aloe vera, and glycerin—instantly and intensely hydrate, plumping skin and reducing fine lines
• Olive phytosqualene—maintains optimal hydration
• Yeast extract and silicon—rebuild and increase skin density
• Hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, and shea butter—heal and fortify skin’s natural barrier
• Vitamin B5—soothing 

Directions for use:

Every morning and evening:

• After cleansing and using Yonka spray Lotion toner
• Apply to HYDRA N°1 CREME to your face and neck
• Then use eye cream
• For very dehydrated skin, apply Hydra N°1 Serum before the cream, in the morning and evening. In addition, use Masque N°1 (renamed Hydra N°1 Masque) once or twice a week. 

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HYDRA N°1 FLUID—This hydrating fluid is best for what Yonka calls “mattifying hydration” for normal to oily skin that feels “very dehydrated.” (If you feel “very dehydrated”—exfoliate!)

From Yonka headquarters: Hydra N°1 Fluide instantly boosts hydration and helps skin retain moisture while normalizing oil production. Quick absorbing and non-oily, Yonka Hydra N°1 Fluide plumps and firms skin, reducing signs of aging for a glowing, youthful complexion without shine.

Provides instant moisture that lasts throughout the day. Mattifies for non-shiny surface.
 Redensifies to reduce signs of aging.
 Results in smooth, hydrated, and matte skin.
 Paraben-free and non-comedogenic.



Enjoy deep, long-lasting hydration with this quickly absorbed hydrating fluid that has supreme age prevention benefits. Enriched with the super-humectant hyaluronic acid, its light texture makes it perfect for normal to oily skin types. It hydrates skin to its deepest layers, leaving it mattified and comfortable and preventing visible signs of aging caused by dehydration.

Essential ingredients:

• Hyaluronic acid—instantly and intensely hydrates, plumping skin and reducing fine lines
• Imperata cylindrica, sodium PCA, and polysaccharide—maintain optimal hydration
• Silica—mattifies
• Olive phytosqualene, aloe vera, and glycerin—hydrate and fortify skin’s natural barrier

Directions for use:


Morning and evening:


• After cleansing and using Yonka spray toner

• Apply HYDRA N°1 FLUIDE to face and neck
• Then apply eye cream

• For very dehydrated skin, apply Hydra N°1 Serum before the fluid, in the morning and evening. In addition, use Hydra N°1 Masque once or twice a week.

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HYDRA N°1 SERUM—For intensive hydration, Hydra N°1 Serum instantly penetrates deep into the epidermis [outer skin] to replenish moisture, relieving dehydration and irritation. With its double dose of highly hydrating ingredients, Hydra N°1 Serum has a soothing gel texture that absorbs quickly while it cools and revitalizes your skin. This serum’s anti-aging ingredients that firm from within to reveal a glowing, youthful complexion. Always paraben-free and non-comedogenic.



The perfect emergency remedy for very dehydrated skin. With its true long-lasting, intense hydration activating complex, this creamy and refreshing gel is the perfect emergency remedy for very dehydrated skin: quickly absorbed, it replenishes the skin’s hydration levels.
 
The anti-aging and hydrating effects are enhanced when used in association with the CREME or the FLUIDE. 

Comfort dehydrated skin with this long-lasting hydrating serum that prevents visible signs of aging caused by dehydration. Enriched with a double dose of hyaluronic acid light, imperata cylindrica grass, and aloe vera, this creamy and refreshing gel is quickly absorbed and seeps deep into pores, making it the perfect emergency remedy for very dehydrated skin. It intensifies the effects of Hydra N°1 Crème and is great for mature skin.

When I was testing these products, I found that this “intensive hydration” serum was not as hydrating as (my favorite!) Optimizer Serum. 

Essential ingredients:

• Imperata cylindrica, polysaccharides, aloe vera, serine, sodium PCA, glycerin—instantly replenishes moisture and maintains lasting hydration

• Olive phytosqualene—maintains optimal hydration

• Yeast extract, hyaluronic acid, silicon—rebuilds and increases skin density



Directions for use:


Morning and evening
:

• After cleansing and using Yonka spray toner

• Apply HYDRA N°1 SERUM to face and neck (pump 2 or 3 times)
• Then apply Hydra N°1 Crème for dry or sensitive skin or Hydra N°1 Fluide for normal to oily skin. In addition, use Hydra N°1 Masque once or twice a week.
• Finish by applying eye cream

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For more information, see:

• HYDRA Nº1 MASQUE (formerly Masque N°1—my FAVORITE Yonka product)
• Questions about Yonka’s Hydra N°1 products & hydrating masks
• Excellence Code Masque: mask or moisturizer?

Your skin care book inspired me to get into the business!

I recently purchased your book, Timeless Skin. I’ve only had it one day and I can’t put it down! You provide a wealth of information on the skin and its care. I purchased the book so I could learn more about the skin, how it works, what’s best for it. In August I will be attending a skin care academy, taking their Esthetics course because I want to become a licensed aesthetician. 

You don’t know how inspired I was when I picked up your book. I’m constantly searching for informative and accurate information on skin care. There are lots of books on the market and I hadn’t found one yet that was written by an aesthetician until now. Your book is wonderful and I hope you have continued success! I would like to know if you have any tips/advice for someone like me just starting out.  It would be most appreciated. Thank You!

I always appreciate hearing from readers, both laypeople and professionals—or in this case a soon-to-be professional—alike. I have already answered her question about what to do when you’re first starting out in the skin care field in the articles with links below. 

Knowledge is power, so I always recommend reading and doing your research, finding the best avenue for you in the skin care world or whatever field of endeavor you are interested in. Good luck to one and all! 

For more information, see:

• Starting your career in skin care
• Another Aesthetician Helped with Timeless Skin
• A few new aestheticians looking for help

I also have a blog for professionals with numerous articles on how to set up your business plus much more:

• Help for Aestheticians: Starting a business