Pregnancy: Some factors that may be affecting your skin

When you’re pregnant, your appetite is somewhat turned upside down. First you may not be able to keep food down, then you’re not able to eat enough. And no doubt you will be craving many foods you don’t normally eat. All of this can cause problems with your skin. This is not the time to restrict what you are eating. Do, however, try to eat a balance of healthy foods, such as the classic fruits and vegetables your body needs. Water is as important as ever along with following your doctor’s prenatal vitamin regimen.

A second factor, stress, should not be overlooked as contributing to your skin problems even after you’ve given birth. Just the time factor (not having enough of it) can be a huge contributor to skin problems you may be experiencing. Incorporating anti-stress activities can help take some of the tension out of your body as well as your face. Try taking a healing bath or meditating—undisturbed—for 15 minutes. Now is the perfect time!

Perhaps your grateful husband can buy you a gift certificate for a full body massage, a facial, or a “day of beauty” at your favorite spa or salon. If money is an issue, try an at-home facial. Simply doing a few extra things to your skin along with taking quiet time when you can, even if it’s only for a few minutes, can make a big difference--body, mind and soul.

Once you’ve given birth, it’s really important to have time to recoup your energy. Ask your husband to take care of the baby while you draw a luxurious bubble bath, complete with candles and relaxing music. Fifteen or 30 minutes is a short amount of time for him, while for you it can make all the difference in the world. Do whatever you can to find some “me” time and recharge your batteries. Remember, anything is possible. Sometimes all you have to do is ask.

Try not to worry about the changes that may be taking place. You may not have the skin, the body, or the kind of time you had prior to your pregnancy and your child being born, but usually the body bounces back in time. And remember: you just created a miracle!

For more information, see:

• Pregnant with Problem Skin
• At-Home Facials—A DIY How-To 
• HEADSPACE: Get your meditation on
• Bathtime Quick Tips

Don’t worry—your problem skin will clear up!

A word about food as products: I’m not a fan

I’m not a fan of using homemade, kitchen/food products on your face. Regarding the photo above, I would recommend eating the avocado. As a mask, sure, it will hydrate your skin and possibly have vitamin benefits for your skin’s surface. However, it is inside your body where the benefits of this heavenly fruit are best utilized and needed. Ingesting the vitamins and nutrients from an avocado affects your whole body, not just the dead, outer skin on your face as when used as a mask. If these homemade skin care products are good enough to eat, then you should eat them, not put them topically on your skin. Your body can utilize the nutrients in food much more readily than your skin can.

Homemade products can be too intense and concentrated for a lot of peoples’ skin. If you feel the need to blend something up for your face, go right ahead. It probably won’t be harmful to your skin although most likely it will be of little help, and in my opinion it’ll be a waste of yummy food you could be eating.

Note: If you indeed decide to use food on your face, please monitor any feelings of sensitivity or irritation. If you feel any uncomfortable sensations, immediately remove the homemade product and reach for a manufactured one next time.

For more information, see:

• Help for Breakouts
• Problem Skin Q & As—Part I
• What is a clay mask and why use one

Same advice for these tomatoes: eat them, please!

Exfoliation Quick Tips for Facial Scrubs

• Don’t use scrubs as your cleanser. They don’t have the ingredients to break down oil like a cleanser does. Use scrubs to exfoliate and stimulate circulation.

• If your scrub feels irritating, add it to your cleanser and gently go over your face and neck. See Advanced Steps for Cleansing for more information and to understand why, even though I just said don’t use your scrub as your cleanser, adding it to a cleanser is OK.

• Don’t forget to exfoliate your neck. Just like with your Basics 1-2-3 Program, you want to include your neck in everything you do to your face.

Cute photo, but she’s using scrub on dry skin

• Always use scrubs on wet skin. Used dry, a facial scrub can drag and pull your skin.

• Never use scrubs around the eye area. You don’t want to use any abrasive products on this delicate tissue.

• Exfoliating prior to an event (like a wedding or photo shoot) can help your skin look its best. Read An Exfoliation Quick Tip for a Quick Pick-Me-Up to find out how.

• Don’t use scrubs on skin with a lot of breakout or acne. Scrubs are way too irritating on this sensitive and susceptible skin.

• Using your facial scrub in the shower will help lessen the mess when it comes time to rinse your face.

For more information on exfoliation from head to toe, read:

• All About Exfoliation
• BODY: The many ways to exfoliate
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program for proper skin care

“But You Didn’t”—a poem from a 12-year-old, sentiments on Memorial Day

Most of my adult life I’ve been told I look younger than my (chronological) age. That is always nice to hear! But when I was young, I was constantly told I seemed older than I was. In my single digits and early teens I wrote a lot of poetry. Below is something I wrote for a school assignment on the Vietnam War. I was 12 years old when I wrote it (1973), and I think it is indicative of being mature beyond my years back then.

“But You Didn’t”                                  

                                                           

Remember the time you lent

me your car and I dented the fender
I thought you’d drill me...

but you didn’t

Remember the time I spilled

coke on your new rug

I thought you’d kill me...

but you didn’t

Remember the time I forgot

to tell you the dance was formal
and you came in jeans,

I thought you’d hate me...

but you didn’t

Remember the countless times

you’d try to be serious, and I’d giggle,
I thought you’d leave me...

but you didn’t

Remember all the times I’d flirt
with other guys, just to make you jealous, and you were,

I thought you’d drop me...

but you didn’t

There were plenty of things you did to put up with me,

to keep me happy, to love me, and there were

so many things I wanted to tell you after you

returned from Vietnam...

but you didn’t.

Blessings to all who have ever served, who are serving now or in the future, and to those who have lost their lives in service to country.  

Thank you. 

Microdermabrasion Q & A + one client’s experience (and it’s not a good one!)

This procedure should be termed microepidermabrasion. Micro means very small or involving minute quantities or variations; derma refers to the dermis or inner layers of the skin, but in the case of microdermabrasion it is—hopefully—only affecting the epidermis or outer skin; abrasion means to wear away by friction, through abrading.

I would like to know how you feel about microdermabrasion. I am 35 years old and fine lines are starting to show, especially around my mouth (smile lines) and forehead. Do you think products would work just as well? The procedure is quite costly, $900 for 6 treatments. I’m trying to decide if it’s worth it or not. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Microdermabrasion is expensive, yet it is a superficial exfoliation of the outer skin. Anything more than that would not be allowed to be performed by a mere aesthetician. It can help to reduce the appearance of the fine lines, but not the actual lines themselves. Keeping your skin regularly exfoliated at home can help you achieve similar benefits as microdermabrasion at a fraction of the cost.

I asked this reader if she exfoliated at home, and her answer was no. She had tried Retin-A, but it burned her skin and made it peel, so she stopped using it. She wasn’t actively exfoliating (vs. passive exfoliation like AHAs or Retin-A) on a regular basis—or at all. She wanted to stop wearing foundation but was having a hard time getting used to not wearing it.

I would recommend exfoliating at home first before you invest in microdermabrasion. This way you can find out the benefits of regular dead skin removal, which reveals soft, supple skin underneath.

I know many people enjoy the benefits of microdermabrasion, but I also have heard stories—firsthand accounts—from some of my clients about negative experiences with this procedure. Following are a few client’s stories.

Gowri’s microderm story. I came into the facial room to see my client who hails from India. Gowri has beautiful light brown skin, and like many darker skinned people, she has some trouble with hyperpigmentation. She went to investigate microdermabrasion to see what all the fuss was about and had an unfortunate experience.

Apparently the aesthetician working on Gowri’s skin was a little overzealous in wanting to get rid of her dead skin. There was a pimple in the middle of Gowri’s forehead, a spot that had been there for a while, and it resisted leaving (clearing).

Perhaps in an attempt to “get rid of” the blemish, the aesthetician must have kept the microdermabrasion machine on that spot for a long time because what she actually did was create a hole in my client’s skin! I couldn’t believe it! Not only was there a visible hole, but since Gowri is from India, she is prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This shows up as dark brown spots at the site of inflammation or infection. In Gowri’s case, she had a medium-sized dark spot at the site of this hole left by the microdermabrasion treatment. 

Over time the skin healed, and because Gowri was diligent about sunscreen and covering her face in the sun, the dark spot went away as well. Both of these processes took some time, but I am happy to report her skin looks great. Needless to say, Gowri won’t be getting any more microdermabrasion treatments.

Another client of mine who likes to experiment with new and different procedures tried microdermabrasion. She said it actually hurt, and now she has red patches on her cheeks from the treatment. I have been giving her facials for over 10 years, and her skin is very delicate and sensitive. She is not a good candidate for any kind of abrasive procedures or products; no wonder she didn’t enjoy microdermabrasion.

I have had one microdermabrasion experience. I asked the aesthetician to only exfoliate one half of my face (left or right side). Although she didn’t know I, too, was an aesthetician, I’m sure she found my request quite odd. I told her (and this is true) that I wanted to be able to see and feel the difference from the microdermed side and the side without the procedure.

My experience, although limited, is this: My skin on the side that received the microdermabrasion felt very sensitive for several days after the facial. Honestly, I couldn’t feel any appreciable difference in texture from one side to the other. But the sensitivity the exfoliated side felt was enough to keep me from having this procedure done again. My skin, by the way, is not what I would describe as sensitive.

Microdermabrasion isn’t for everyone. I encourage all my clients to experiment and see what works best for them. Microdermabrasion isn’t—or shouldn’t be—any more than superficial exfoliation, so it should be a safe procedure. However, any treatment given by someone who is unqualified could turn out to be disastrous, so be sure if you do get microdermabrasion you are going to someone who knows about skin and all the possible effects of this procedure—not just the benefits.

Microdermabrasion is fairly commonplace in many facials today and it is also a safe procedure (unless you have an aesthetician who doesn’t understand skin or how to use the machine). I still think microdermabrasion is too expensive for what you get. Doing your at-home exfoliation (especially utilizing Yonka’s gommage) can, in my opinion, give you similar results without compromising the health of your skin or your wallet.

For more information, see:

• What is Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation?
• What IS Gommage?
• Microdermabrasion—What’s all the fuss about?

Camping & Your Skin: The Essentials

When I go camping with my husband, we backpack and therefore I don’t have much room to bring my cosmetics with me. Do you have any “bare minimum” suggestions for products I can take camping that wouldn’t take up too much room in my pack?

Through the years, I have had many clients and friends ask me how to go about taking care of their skin while under unusual circumstances. One friend was on her way to Washington state to summit Mount Rainier, while several clients have gone on no-frills safaris in the wilds of Africa. Whether you are scaling a mountain, on safari, or you’re just a weekend camper, you will want to take only the essentials to save room yet save your face at the same time.

When I go camping, it is usually the no-frills kind. No bathrooms, no water other than a (very) cold stream near the campsite, and sometimes not even that. If there is no stream, I am left with water from a canteen to brush my teeth and wash my face. Needless to say, this limits my routine to the bare bones. And admittedly, although I usually do my morning routine, the evening routine doesn’t always get accomplished. After sitting around the campfire in the deep darkness of night, sometimes just climbing into the tent to go to sleep is my top priority.

I’m telling you this to say don’t worry about skipping your routine if your circumstances dictate it. I don’t go camping very often, and I certainly take exceptional care of my skin every day of my life otherwise. So if you find yourself unable (or maybe just unwilling) to do all the right things, don’t worry about it. Just know that you will have some catching up to do once you get home, and your skin may show the signs of improper care, which may include congestion (more blackheads than you normally have) and flakiness from lack of exfoliation.

My skin usually goes through a minor breakout during a camping trip, but frankly I’m more focused on the environmental beauty I am surrounded by and not on how I look. Fortunately, there are no mirrors out in the woods, so out of sight, out of mind!

If possible, get a facial after your trip. This will ensure that your neglected skin will get all the attention it needs. If you can get a facial before you go, do—before to prepare, after to repair. A good clay mask done right after returning from a camping trip will do wonders to immediately perk up your skin as well as clean out your pores.

Travel companions. The first order of business is getting any products you plan to take with you in travel sizes. If these smaller versions aren’t available, make your own. You can find small plastic containers at almost any drug or grocery store. If your products are housed in glass or metal, they probably need to remain in containers made out of those materials, rather than plastic.

If the product line you use offers sample sizes, get hold of some (you may have to purchase them, or sometimes they are given away) and take these with you instead of your travel-size products. Saving space is always the name of the game. If you end up bringing samples, be sure to take a few self-sealing plastic bags with you to use as “trash cans” for your used sample containers. When you go camping, especially backpacking, you always take out whatever you bring in, and this includes trash.

The following are the most important ingredients in your basic travel kit:

• Cleanser (To cleanse day and night.)
• Sunscreen (Used amply and frequently.)
• Moisturizer (Used at night, and even under your sunscreen if you need the extra moisture, and as your eye cream if you can’t take a separate product.)
• Lip balm (Your lips will thank you for this one!)
• Toner in a spray bottle (If room allows.)

Keeping your skin clean and protected from the sun are the top two concerns to focus on. With that said, you have the added challenge of limited space in your pack and limited time to stick to a routine. The following suggestions are based on special, limited circumstances and are in no way recommendations for normal, daily skin care at home. When I have gone camping, if I was able to brush my teeth morning and night, it was an accomplishment!

The first ingredient in your camping travel kit is a non-alkaline cleanser. If water is limited, I recommend a change from how you are cleansing at home. First, spend a few more seconds applying the cleanser to your face. Next, only if water is limited, wipe the cleanser off with a towel; then rinse with water from your canteen or, if available, a stream. If stream water is your only option, you won’t want to splash too much of that ice cold water on your face. It’s damaging to your capillaries. Toweling or wiping off cleanser is not a practice I recommend if you are at home—there you want to splash-rinse with water. But in these limited circumstances, this wiping off procedure will require less water in order to get the cleanser off your face.

In the morning, after you have removed the cleanser as thoroughly as possible and rinsed with water, pour on the sunscreen! And be sure to take some with you when you go hiking. Sunscreens work on a temporary basis only, and one application in the morning will not last throughout the day. It should be waterproof (or water-resistant) so you won’t sweat it off. Please, don’t go on any excursion, especially camping, without lots of sunscreen!

At night, cleanse and use your night treatment cream. If you can take your eye cream, great. But if space is limited, use your night cream around your eyes. Again, this is less than ideal, but it is practical. When in doubt, improvise.

Don’t forget lip balm. Carry it around wherever you go and use it often throughout the day and at night before you go to sleep. Lip balm will help save your lips from becoming dry and chapped. This is especially important if you are in high altitudes or in a desert climate. Try to find a non-petroleum lip balm and be sure to get one with SPF. Lips need protection from the sun’s rays just as much as your skin does.

This is super small—perfect!

If space allows, I highly recommend taking your toner in a travel-size spray bottle. This step adds hydration (water) to your face as well as other soothing ingredients to help balance your skin. (Do I need to include that I am not talking about toners with SD or isopropyl alcohol in them?) Because toners are liquids, I recommend putting the bottle in a self-sealing plastic bag—just in case. You don’t want any surprises when you open your pack.

If you are camping but have access to a bathroom, then you will be able to follow your regular at-home routine much more easily. You may not want to bring every skin care product you normally use at home, but you certainly can bring more than what I have mentioned. The previous recommendations are based on having very limited space and resources, yet allow you to keep your skin in pretty good shape during your time away from home.

Whatever your trip involves, have a great time, wear plenty of sunscreen, and do what you can to keep to some sort of routine, pared down as it might be. Remember—life is short so do what you can skin care-wise and otherwise enjoy your outdoor experience. Happy trails!

For more information, see:

• Camping: My “Skin Care” 
• New Cleanser from Yonka: EAU MICELLAIRE for a really great type of cleanser to have on hand while camping
• Too Busy for Skin Care?

Humidity and its effect on your skin

What effects does humidity—especially during the summer months—have on my skin?

Humidity, like during a rainy day (or season), is actually good for the skin. It simply helps to hydrate whatever it comes in contact with, therefore your skin. So normal humidity from moist weather superficially hydrates your skin (even in a dry climate like Colorado).

Humidity during the summer and in extremely humid locations (like Houston, TX for instance) can cause the oil glands to become more active. This makes oily skin oilier. Because humidity during the summertime can make us sweat more, this can translate to more breakouts.

When I was working in Dallas, I had many more clients with issues of what I’ll call humidity breakout than I do here in Colorado, where the air is very (very) dry. Keeping the skin clean and well-exfoliated, no matter where you live or what your skin type, is my best advice. How?

• Using a non-alkaline cleanser (daily, morning and night)
• A clay-based mask for deep cleansing (1-2 times weekly)
• And whatever your exfoliator of choice is to remove the dead cell buildup (which is hopefully Yonka’s Gommage!)

Scrubs (both for face and the body) are excellent at gently removing dead skin and debris off the surface of your skin. A scrub is a good exfoliation choice at any time and especially if you’ve been out sweating on a hot summer’s day.

Don’t let sweat dry on your skin, or you may experience tiny bumps or irritations just beneath the surface of your skin—wherever you have been sweating, face and/or body. If you don’t have access to water or for whatever reason cannot rinse the sweat off your skin, do so as soon as you can. You really don’t want sweat to dry on your skin!

Treating skin that is affected by humidity isn’t that different from helping to clear breakout and problem skin caused by another reason. The main difference is you can always cut down on sugar or whatever may be causing a breakout diet-wise, but you can’t just pick up and move away from a humid environment that you might call home. Keeping your skin clean and well-exfoliated is always your best bet for healthy-looking skin.

For more information, see:

• What is a clay mask and why use one? 
• What IS Gommage?
• Proper pH & your skin care products
• NO SWEAT: What happens when sweat dries on your skin?

Machines used in facials—are they necessary?

Does the facial salon you go to use machines?

Machines are very common, and below I have listed those most often used in facials. The salon you go to may employ all or none of them. Keep in mind machines lack the sensitivity of human contact. Studies show the tremendous healing benefits of touch. It calms the nervous system, and gives you, the client, a sense of connection to the aesthetician. If machines are used every step of the way, I’d think twice before getting a facial at that salon. That is just my opinion. My preference is to make educating my client the number one purpose of the facial, along with utilizing the soothing touch of massage throughout my treatments. If you happen to like machines, by all means—go for it!

Steam machine. This is probably the most widely used piece of machinery. Almost every facial offers steam at least once, and in some cases several times throughout a skin care treatment. The mist coming from the arm of the machine superficially hydrates the outer skin and softens debris held in the pores, ideally making extractions easier. I have found, however, that once the steam is removed, the debris inside the pores hardens along with the outer skin, making extractions more difficult (and by the way—more painful!).

The heat from the steam stimulates circulation, which helps to nourish the cells, although the heat may become too intense for several skin conditions. If you have acne, capillary damage, redness, or sensitive skin, you are not a good candidate for steam. In fact, you should avoid it. If you find yourself in a treatment where steam is used, and you have one of these skin conditions, ask the aesthetician to either move the steam farther from your face or do away with it all together.

Steam is a superfluous step in many ways, but most facials incorporate it. A beneficial time to utilize the steam machine is during the clay mask. Request that it be used then in order to keep the clay moist. Be aware, your aesthetician may balk at this suggestion, but explain that you don’t want the clay to dry on your face or the steam on your bare skin.

For more information on the use of steam on your face, read Is steam good for my skin? as well as that section in One facial experience—not a great one (links below).

Brush machine. The brush machine eliminates dead surface cells by using a rotating brush attached to a motorized unit. The brushes spin at various speeds, come in different textures, and are generally made of goat hair. Your choices for exfoliation in a facial are sometimes limited to the brush machine or a scrub. Neither is terribly effective, but unless the product line the salon uses has other options for exfoliation, you may be faced with this machine. Most salons now include mild to strong acid peels for exfoliation within the facial.

One problem I have with this machine is sanitation. The brushes are used on everyone who has been to that salon for a facial. Of course they are properly sanitized (you hope), but how long has a particular brush been in use? My opinion about the use of a professional electric brush in a facial is similar to using at-home brush machines, like the Clarisonic. 

This machine should never be used on acne, red, or sensitive skin. It should never be used on skin with broken capillaries. It’s not the worst thing in the world, but at the very least, human touch is once again replaced by a machine.

The vacuum. Yes, that’s right—a vacuum. I can’t believe these are still used today, but they are. In case you come across the vacuum in a facial, just say “NO!” Its purpose is to suction out embedded dirt and debris from the pores. Unfortunately, it can cause capillary damage due to the suction and is very ineffective at cleaning out the pores. A vacuum should be used on a floor, not on your face.

Galvanic current. This machine uses a low-level current and two terminals, or poles. One pole is positively charged; the other is negatively charged. Sometimes these poles are called “active” and “indifferent.” The client holds the negative or indifferent pole, and the active pole is placed on the skin, creating a circuit.

The purpose of this machine is to make products penetrate deeper into the skin as well as soften tissue and stimulate circulation. It is my contention that products applied manually penetrate far enough into the skin without the need to incorporate electrically charged machines. I find these devices disruptive to the natural flow of the facial. They aren’t used very often, although some salons subscribe to the benefits of machines and will employ galvanic current. 

High-frequency. This machine uses infrared light that is either violet or orange-red. The light is directed through a glass electrode that is in turn applied to the skin. (When the machine is turned on, it sounds a bit like Dr. Frankenstein’s laboratory.) The uses for a high frequency machine are to stimulate circulation, warm the surface of the skin, as well as to disinfect the skin.

The client’s entire face is gone over with a mushroom-shaped electrode, or individual blemishes can be zapped by lifting the electrode off the skin just over the problem spot. This lifting causes a slight shock or spark that has a concentrated, germicidal effect, destroying bacteria. High-frequency is also used to aid in the penetration of products.

Here again, there is only so far a product can go into the skin. I don’t feel the need to use a machine to penetrate products when a pair of hands can do the job. Manually applying products soothes the client with human touch as well. Many skin care salons utilize the high-frequency machine, so you will probably come in contact with it. You might want to give it a try to see if you enjoy this form of treatment.

I don’t use any machines in my facial. I prefer to use my hands and let the products do their magic. Machines leave me cold, and stimulating someone’s skin this way doesn’t feel right to me. Earlier in my career I had access to a high-frequency machine. I rarely used it because I felt it was doing little to improve my clients’ skin and added a strange, cold indifference to the facial. Employing foreign objects with peculiar, electrical noises in place of the soothing nature of human touch didn’t create the relaxing environment I wanted to provide for my clients. 

Oxygen facials. These treatments usually combine products with special oxygen-related ingredients, along with pure oxygen applied directly to the skin. The products supposedly reduce the function of the skin so the oxygen can penetrate through the skin’s barrier. Then a blast of oxygen from a tank is applied to your face, and voila—your skin miraculously absorbs this added oxygen! Actually, most doctors agree that although this is surely a harmless treatment, you cannot make oxygen penetrate into the skin this way.

Having a blast of oxygen directed at your face may feel good and may do wonders for your circulation, but the oxygen carried in your blood is what is feeding and nourishing the skin—from the inside out. There are many people, many professionals, who may disagree with me. There are also a lot of people making money selling these kinds of facials. I have a very different approach to skin care. It rarely, if ever, incorporates the latest trends or fads that are presented to the public.

Perhaps mine is an old-fashioned approach. I don’t, however, see any great improvements in skin after having trendy treatments (such as oxygen facials) or using the latest miracle product. If you’re curious about this or any other procedure or skin treatment, check it out and see for yourself whether or not you receive the results that are promised. Oxygen facials tend to be quite expensive, so be forewarned.

What about oxygen bars? These booths or bars administer large amounts of oxygen, which is supposed to be purifying. The truth is, your body breathes in oxygen and exhales carbon dioxide perfectly without any help. Trust your body and seek to cleanse and purify it through proven, effective means such as diet and exercise. Again, I know people will disagree with me, people who have gone to oxygen bars. My response to them is—great! In life you have to find what works and what doesn't work for you. I prefer to spend my money on products that will affect my skin on a daily basis. In short: to each his or her own.

Please don't ever use one of these!

Comedone extractor. This is a metal instrument that looks similar to a knitting needle. It has a small, donut-shaped hole at one end. As the hole encircles the blackhead and pressure is applied, the extractor helps to drive debris out of the blackhead.

As the name implies, it is to be used on comedones, the technical term for blackheads. Used on closed pores, a comedone extractor could lead to disaster. I highly discourage letting anyone use one of these instruments on you. The aesthetician has little or no sense of how much pressure she is applying. At the very least, this can cause capillary damage, not to mention the insensitivity of unyielding metal on your face. I would never use one of these in a treatment or even on my own skin at home. See Just say NO to comedone extractors! to read about a client’s experience (and it’s not a good one) with the use of a comedone extractor in a facial she had.

I have to say it one more time: Please—do not use a comedone extractor on your skin or let an aesthetician use one on you either!

PLEASE: Don’t use these either!

Lancets. A lancet is a disposable pin or needle-like implement originally designed for diabetics to prick a finger in order to draw blood and test their blood sugar levels. Lancets are used in facials to make a tiny opening in a closed pore or pustule so the debris can gently be nudged out through the opening. Not to fear, a lancet is not used to dig into the blemish. In the hands of a skilled aesthetician, it can be an effective tool to help with extractions.

Some of you may love having facials with some of the machines listed above. As with many things in any particular facial treatment, it all comes down to preference. Everyone is different; almost every facial and aesthetician is different. If during a facial the professional uses a machine that you aren’t familiar with and especially if you don’t want it used on you, stop her and ask her to explain why she thinks the machine is necessary for your skin before she actually uses it on you. You always have a choice in any kind of treatment, facial or otherwise, so be sure to ask questions and feel confident before going forward.

For more information, see:

• What to expect in a facial treatment where I go over some questions you might want to ask your aesthetician before and during your next facial treatment
• Is steam good for my skin? 
• One facial experience—not a great one
• Facial Brushes: Yes or No?

Top 10 reasons for not wearing sunscreen: What’s your excuse?

Wearing hats and sunscreen is the best way to keep your skin from incurring too much sun damage while you’re having fun outside. If you don’t wear sunscreen—and no hat either?!—perhaps now would be a good time to start. Below are the top 10 excuses people have given me for not wearing sun protection.

1. It makes my skin feel greasy.
2. It burns.
3. It doesn’t work.
4. I just sweat it off.
5. I want to get color.
6. Skin cancer doesn’t run in my family.
7. I never burn, so why use it?
8. It’s too much trouble.
9. I forgot to put it on.
10. Wearing sunscreen makes my face feel hot.

Let me address these concerns:

1.) If wearing sunscreen makes your face feel greasy, you could simply be wearing the wrong product. There are more and more sunscreens available that are made with ingredients that will keep a matte finish vs. causing an oil slick. If you indeed have an oilier skin type, I recommend wearing sunscreen during the day as your day cream. There is no need to pile a sun product on top of a moisturizer—the sunscreen is a cream, so you should get adequate moisturizing qualities from using it alone. 

2.) If your sunscreen causes any sensation like burning, itching, peeling or anything else—don’t use it! Those responses are your skin telling you to remove it now. Unfortunately, sometimes finding a sunscreen that works for your skin can involve a bit of trial and error, but I assure you it is worth the effort. Throughout your life there will be countless occasions where you will need a good sunscreen, so finding one is imperative.

3.) Once in a while I’ll have a client complain that even though they had sunscreen on, they still got color. It’s as though the sunscreen didn’t work. I am here to tell you: it did! None of these clients got sunburns, therefore the sun product did its job. Sunscreens aren’t meant to keep all UV rays away (only being inside away from windows can do that), they are made to keep your skin from burning.

4.) Sweating sunscreen off is a big concern as well as then reapplying it.

5.) I understand the desire to “get color” and therefore sunbathing or simply not wearing sunscreen to let the UV rays have there chance to turn your skin color darker. Any time you wear sunscreen you are still getting sun; however, the higher the SPF, the less color you will receive. So could we make a compromise here? How about wearing a lower SPF on the days or during the activities where you are trying to darken the color of your skin. Then have a higher SPF handy for those times when you not only don’t want to get color, but when you know you’ll be out for an extended period of time and will most likely burn without it.

6.) Congratulations that so far you have not had skin cancer in your family. Frankly, that is so rare. Melanoma, the deadliest of skin cancers, is less likely than other forms like basal cell carcinoma, but I assure you skin cancer can happen even if you haven’t had a lot of UV exposure in your lifetime. Resting on the laurel that it doesn’t run in your family seems, to me, like not only a flimsy excuse for not wearing sun protection, but a potentially deadly one as well. Please wear some sun protection at least some of the time when you’re out and about in the sun. Skin cancer is the most preventable form of cancer. Don’t tempt fate.

If you wear SPF, you shouldn’t burn

7.) Sunscreen is worn to help keep some of the damaging rays of the sun off your skin. These powerful UV rays cause tanning, burning, and skin cancer. I would say unequivocally that you should wear sunscreen to help keep skin cancer away—although it’s not a panacea; skin cancer can find you sunscreen or not and even if you never get sunburns.

8.) If wearing sunscreen is too much trouble, perhaps visiting a dermatologist who is removing a cancerous lesion from a client’s face might convince you otherwise. I will say that wearing sunscreen is not a guarantee that skin cancer won’t be in your future, but it certainly helps, as do hats and shade. If you just will not wear sunscreen, would you consider wearing a hat?

9.) Simply forgetting to put on sunscreen does happen, of course. I think out of sight, out of mind; try keeping your sunscreen out on your bathroom cabinet so you might better remember that it needs to be applied before you go out.

10.) If your face feels hot from wearing sunscreen, perhaps if you try a different, lighter-textured sun product this could solve the problem. (See #1—Sunscreen makes my skin feel greasy.) There are lighter, milky-type creams vs. heavy, thick creams you can use that shouldn’t cause that hot feeling.

For more information, see:

• SUNSCREENS: The WHAT & WHY plus the importance of REAPPLYING
• Basal Cell Carcinoma: David’s story for an eye-opening look into one person’s skin cancer experience
• Hats, Hats, Hats! Protect your skin in the sun 

The Forgotten Places: The Hands

We tend to worry about our hands (the tops of our hands) long after the damage has occurred, which makes this area one of The Forgotten Places. If you’re young, start now to take care of your hands, so they will reflect this care when you’re older. And even if you are older and haven’t taken very good care of this area, it’s never too late to start. Your skin will always reflect the care you give it. Here are a few suggestions.

First, whenever you exfoliate your face and neck, exfoliate the tops of your hands. It’s a small area, so it doesn’t take much time (or product), but getting rid of the dead cells here will go a long way in keeping your hands looking youthful and feeling smooth.

Next, after you have applied moisturizer to your face and neck, smooth any excess product on your hands. If they are chronically dry, apply a special hand cream or the cream you’re using on your body before you go to bed. Try to apply it as often as you can throughout the day as well.

Another suggestion is to wear gloves. They can really help to keep the tops of your hands hydrated as well as protected from the elements. I have clients who sleep with gloves on to ensure an overnight moisturizing effect. Rubber gloves are great if your hands are in water a lot or even a little. Wear them while doing the dishes or any other time your hands will be immersed in water. Driving with gloves on will help keep the damaging sun off your hands. Wearing gloves in cold weather will go a long way toward protecting the tops of the hands from damage, not only from the sun, but also from the dry, cold air. 

Finally, wearing sunscreen on the tops of your hands is important. When applying sunscreen to your face and/or body, don’t forget the tops of your hands.

For more information, see:

• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands
• Pigmentation is so one-sided for some helpful tips
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream for a truly great (and effective) hand cream

Yonka’s Eye Treatment Creams & Gels

Yonka has created three wonderful eye creams:

• Nutri-Contour
• Phyto-Contour
• Alpha-Contour

Each one has many attributes; all are wonderful for keeping the eye area hydrated and nourished. If you are not clear on the purpose of using eye cream, please see EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product (link below).

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NUTRI-CONTOUR is the eye treatment I recommend to my clients most often. The reason is because it is hydrating, preventing that delicate eye area from dryness and the appearance of wrinkles.

It is an oil-based cream vs. a water-based gel, giving it lasting ability. Optimal use is morning and evening—at least, and any time in between. I instruct my clients to simply feel the skin under their eyes. If it feels dry, then apply more eye cream, even if it is in addition to your regular morning and evening application during your Basics routine.

From Yonka headquarters:
NUTRI-CONTOUR repairing eye, lip cream is an anti-free radical cream rich in antioxidant vitamins. It successfully delays aging signs and helps diminish the appearance of expression lines. The perfect eye-lip daily shield, loaded with moisture. Essential vitamins are replenished into the eye and lip contours, warding off dehydration and wrinkles. Perfect for every day use; doesn’t leave delicate tissues with a heavy greasy feeling.

Essential ingredients:

• Hazelnut oil—repairing, nourishing
• Chamomile, vitamin PP—soothing, softening
• Vitamin F—prevents dehydration
• Vitamin E—antioxidant

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of NUTRI-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles. Sorry!

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ALPHA-CONTOUR. I love this eye gel. It goes on smoothly and feels fresh and wonderful.

In general, gels have less long-term hydrating abilities than creams. Gels are water-based; creams are oil-based. However I love the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) content in this gel. AHAs help to dislodge dead skin that is sticking together, basically helping to exfoliate skin merely by its application.

I’m not a huge fan of AHAs, as you might have read in previous articles, however for the undereye area I do think AHAs are a worthwhile ingredient. If you want to learn more about why I’m not in favor of using these acids on the face, read What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not? (See link below.)

I have several clients (myself, included) who use Alpha-Contour for their nasolabial folds (smile lines) and the vertical lines above the lips. Because it’s a gel, it soaks in quickly and isn’t heavy like a cream would be—especially on the upper lip area. Like any cream (or gel) this product will not erase wrinkles, but due to Alpha-Contour’s AHA content, it can help to make the lines look less noticeable. And truly, with the exfoliation benefits of AHAs, Alpha-Contour can indeed help to lessen the lines.

I like this gel eye treatment better in the warmer, summer months. I usually recommend Nutri-Contour for most clients in the winter. A cream stays on longer and gives more moisture than a gel will (this gel, included), and in Colorado, because of the dry air, we need all the help we can get when it comes to moisturizing. But don’t let that stop you from using this eye gel. It really is a personal favorite.

From Yonka headquarters:

ALPHA-CONTOUR for wrinkles and fine lines is an avant-garde technology gel for eyes and lips that insures the utmost avoidance against the aging process. It helps to eliminate aging cells and replenishes moisture to skin. This lightweight gel works to actively reduce frown lines and furrows and instantly melts pleasantly into the skin.

Alpha-Contour works with aging skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin starting to show the negative signs of aging around the delicate eyes and lips can benefit from continuous use. Botanical AHA’s found in this gel stimulate cell renewal to help skin heal itself from the inside out 

Essential ingredients:

• AHAs (fruit acids from lemon, orange, sugar cane, maple, and blueberry)—anti-wrinkle, renovating, hydrating
• Hyaluronic acid—hydrating
• Mimosa tenuiflora, marine peptides—regenerating, smoothing
• Essential oil of peppermint—refreshing
• Essential oil of lavender—calming   

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of ALPHA-CONTOUR gel on lines around eyes (and if you want to, the upper lip area, as mentioned above)
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

Remember: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft; they do not erase wrinkles!

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PHYTO-CONTOUR is a treatment cream formulated specifically for puffiness and dark circles. Because this is in a cream base, Phyto-Contour is also hydrating to that delicate under-eye area. It has a high concentration of rosemary essential oil. This make the cream aromatic and can cause tearing in some people.

Yonka recommends the following when using Phyto-Contour—“To give the rosemary fragrance time to dissipate, and to prevent tearing, keep your eyes closed during application.” 

Unless you are applying a thick layer of this eye treatment, I think you will be OK to keep your eyes open. I will, however, recommend that you use caution if you wear contacts. Some people do “tear up” with the rosemary essence, so be careful. But do use this wonderful, aromatic eye cream. It is oh, so Yonka and oh, so wonderful

From Yonka headquarters:
PHYTO-CONTOUR for puffiness and dark circles is a delicate eye cream that works deep down to produce an immediate sensation of freshness. This cream uses extracts of rosemary to visibly decongest fluid buildup and lines around the eyes. Dark under-eye circles are lightened, giving an appearance of alert, awake eyes. Under-eye bumps are alleviated and the delicate skin around the eye is visibly lifted.

 
Phyto-Contour works hard to decongest puffy, tired eyes. The multi-purpose works to guarantee a visible lift and imparts a soothing de-stressing sensation while lightening dark circles under the eyes. 

Essential ingredients:

• Rosemary—firming, toning, draining 
• Beech bud peptides—restructuring, smoothing
• Aloe vera, plant glycerin—hydrating
• Vitamin E—antioxidant  

Directions for use:

• After your Basics 1-2-3 Program (cleanser, toner, moisturizer)
• Apply a small amount of PHYTO-CONTOUR cream on lines around eyes and/or where you experience puffiness
• Use morning and night and anytime in between

For extreme puffiness, like after an evening of too much sugar, wine, or even crying, see An effective treatment for puffy eyes using Yonka’s Phyto Contour for a “morning method” of using this anti-puffiness eye treatment. Phyto-Contour can really help to reduce edema (puffiness) and even lessen dark circles—temporarily, but definitely noticeably.

For the last time: eye creams keep the tissue around the eyes soft. They do not erase wrinkles! No matter which Yonka eye cream you use—or perhaps an eye treatment from a different product line—use eye cream! It is an important step in your daily skin care routine.

For more information on eye creams along with links to the articles mentioned above, see:

• EYE CREAM: WHY you want to use it & HOW TO apply this all-important skin care product
• Will my puffy eyes ever go away? Help!
• What are AHAs? Miracle ingredients or not?