Hands: all links so far

hands

• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands

• Forgotten Places: The Hands

• Nails: Fingernail Health Q & A

• Nails: Help for Hangnails

• Pigmentation is so one-sided

• Winter Skin 101

Also see

• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing, Comforting Hand Cream (replaces Nutri-Protect) (new!)

Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing, Comforting Hand Cream (replaces Nutri-Protect)

Nutri-Protect was the first hand cream Yonka-Paris came out with in 2013. It was yummy and fabulous on so many levels. To state the obvious, I loved this cream! And, like so many favorites in the last many years, Yonka for whatever reason decided to take this product out of their lineup. I’m happy to say Yonka did replace Nutri-Protect with CREME MAINS Repairing, Comforting Hand Cream. (Mains means hands in French.)

The professional size (for treatment rooms) says Creme Mains et Pieds (hands and feet) and I totally agree! By just using a small, pea-sized amount of this cream on both your hand and your feet, your nose will be in heaven and your skin will be super-hydrated. The scent is different than Nutri-Protect. In a way I miss that aromatic, but the lovely scent of Creme Mains makes up for it.

The ingredients in this hand treatment are almost identical to its predecessor Nutri-Protect, but like Masque Nº1 and its replacement Hydra Nº1 Masque, some ingredients are in a different order on the list. When it comes to Creme Mains, this makes for a different, more orange/mandarin aromatic than the precious hand cream. Still wonderful, still Yonka-yummy.

From Yonka headquarters: Take it everywhere you go to care for your hands, nails and cuticles. This ultra-comforting cream repairs and protects very dry and rough skin via a specialized formula, a combination of shea butter, vegetable glycerin, grape seed oil, bisabolol and vitamins A, C and E. A hand treatment gem that promotes their beauty and comfort.

This hand cream is a great solution to fight the dryness of your skin caused by the accrued use of using hand sanitizer. Recognized efficacy: Skin is nourished and repaired: 89%. (As you can read in other posts, sometimes these percentage numbers seem ridiculous in terms of hard science, but in this case since it’s a hand cream and not going on your face, it’s not such a big deal to me.)

Yonka Paris Creme Mains Comforting Hand Cream Features & Benefits:

• Superior repairing, nourishing, comforting treatments for hands, nails, and cuticles
• Fast absorbing, non-oily
• Repairs and relieves even extremely dehydrated, irritated, chapped skin
• Ultra moisturizing formula leaves hands incredibly supple and comfortable
• Promotes and preserves hands youthfulness
• Protects against unforgiving external stressors
• Paraben-free
• 97% ingredients of natural origin

Essential ingredients:

• Shea butter—repairing, nourishing, protective
• Grape seed oil (rich in essential fatty acids)—restructuring
• Vitamin B5, bisabolol—comforting, soothing 
• Vegetable glycerin—hydrating
• Vitamins A, C, E—antioxidant, regenerating
• Essential oils of sweet orange, grapefruit, mandarin, and magnolia—refreshing phyto-aromatic effects

Directions for use:

• Apply CREME MAINS cream to dry, clean hands
• Massage in well
• For damaged or cracked hands, apply frequently during the day
• For very damaged hands, apply a thick layer of cream and wear cotton gloves overnight
• Remember: A little goes a long way
• For an extra treat: use on your feet, too!

Due to the pandemic we are all using a lot of hand sanitizer, which is usually very drying, along with washing our hands more than we have in the past. Your hands, nail, and even cuticles will appreciate having this soothing, smoothing cream on especially at the end of a long day. Take it with you during the day and keep it on your bed table at night. Happy hands, happy life!

For more information, see: 

• The Forgotten Places: The Hands
• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands
• Yonka Body Products: all links so far

Nails: Fingernail Health Q & A

The following are two of the most frequently asked questions and their answers from my favorite nail professional, Sharon Bayles. This is an excerpt from by second book, Skin Care A to Z.

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Why do my nails peel?

Many factors could be to blame for this annoying problem. It’s usually environment or chemical stresses. Your nails are porous, so excessive washing can make them brittle, as mentioned before.

Never use polish removers with acetone (very drying) or polish with sensitizing ingredients like toluene, nitrocellulose or formaldehyde. If your nails have always peeled, you have your parents to thank for that gene! Buffing is an excellent option because it helps to hold the peeling ends together, and it shines like a polish would without the chemicals. Buy a good buffing cream and a chamois buffer and shine away! Note that buffing is great for most nails to diminish ridges and peeling ends, but should be avoided if skin or nail disorders like psoriasis or dermatitis are present.

How can I get my nails to grow?

Having regular manicures by either yourself or a licensed professional is the fastest way to healthy nails. Always incorporate a good massage to your hands and pull on the fingers to tips to get the blood circulating. You will see results with this consistent care. Second, don’t think you have to have talons to have great nails. Be realistic and honest. Most of us know our nail length “limit.” Keeping nails trimmed at or below this limit will eliminate a lot of breakage.

When looking for a manicurist, be sure to find a qualified professional. Ask her how many natural nail manicures she does. This is important because you could get roped into wearing fake nails before you know it. Believe me, this “quick fix” could take your nails years to recover from all the damage. Some damage could even be permanent.

And my last tip is to always wear sunscreen on your hands. In the years to come you’ll thank yourself as you hear your friends complaining about their “spots.”

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Thank you, Sharon, for helping to explain the answers to these important questions.

For more information on taking good care of your hands and nails, see:

• Nails: Help for Hangnails
• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands
• The Forgotten Places: The Hands

Nails: Help for Hangnails

What is a hangnail?

A hangnail is simply dead skin that has pulled away from the fingernail area. If you’ve never experienced these annoying yet painful skin irritations, you are one in a million. I am sure you have found that if you pull the dead skin off, it leaves a little tear in the skin, and these tiny little pieces of skin really can hurt when they are tearing off from the finger. So—don’t pull the skin off—but do cut it with nail clippers, and get as close to the surface as possible without cutting your finger. And if it still hurts, and to ensure infection doesn’t set in, put a tiny drop of an essential oil (preferably lavender, which is very soothing) on the area then put a Band-Aid® on it until it heals.

How can I best take care of the skin around my fingernails? I get lots of hangnails, and they hurt! Please tell me what I can do (or not do) to stop them from happening.

Frequently washing your hands throughout the day can create an environment for problems with the skin around your nails as well as the nails themselves. The absorption and subsequent drying of water on your hands (through washing dishes, baths, and even simply washing your hands in soap and water) can cause brittle nails and skin that tends to create hangnails. Wearing rubber gloves whenever possible is always a good idea. It may seem like a nuisance at first, but once you are used to wearing gloves, your hands will reflect this new type of care.

Putting a healing oil on your cuticles can help to keep hangnails away. Because hangnails are dead skin gone bad, keeping that skin soft and flexible will help to keep those painful tears from happening. After bathing or taking a shower is a good time to push the skin of the cuticle back, which helps to keep that tissue from tearing. Nighttime is the best time for this application. The oil will stay put longer, and that’s when everything regenerates anyway!

Finally, getting regular manicures, even if you don’t have long nails, is another good way to keep hangnails away and just keep up with overall maintenance of your hands. I don’t have any nails since I have to keep them short for my work, but I love to get manicures. It keeps my nailbeds in good shape, and I love the massaging that comes with a professional manicure. Treat yourself even now and then or on a regular basis and hangnails can be a thing of the past.

For more information, see:

• Lavender: A Medicine Cabinet Must!—updated
• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands 
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream for an amazing moisturizer. It’s super yummy!

The Forgotten Places: The Hands

We tend to worry about our hands (the tops of our hands) long after the damage has occurred, which makes this area one of The Forgotten Places. If you’re young, start now to take care of your hands, so they will reflect this care when you’re older. And even if you are older and haven’t taken very good care of this area, it’s never too late to start. Your skin will always reflect the care you give it. Here are a few suggestions.

First, whenever you exfoliate your face and neck, exfoliate the tops of your hands. It’s a small area, so it doesn’t take much time (or product), but getting rid of the dead cells here will go a long way in keeping your hands looking youthful and feeling smooth.

Next, after you have applied moisturizer to your face and neck, smooth any excess product on your hands. If they are chronically dry, apply a special hand cream or the cream you’re using on your body before you go to bed. Try to apply it as often as you can throughout the day as well.

Another suggestion is to wear gloves. They can really help to keep the tops of your hands hydrated as well as protected from the elements. I have clients who sleep with gloves on to ensure an overnight moisturizing effect. Rubber gloves are great if your hands are in water a lot or even a little. Wear them while doing the dishes or any other time your hands will be immersed in water. Driving with gloves on will help keep the damaging sun off your hands. Wearing gloves in cold weather will go a long way toward protecting the tops of the hands from damage, not only from the sun, but also from the dry, cold air. 

Finally, wearing sunscreen on the tops of your hands is important. When applying sunscreen to your face and/or body, don’t forget the tops of your hands.

For more information, see:

• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands
• Pigmentation is so one-sided for some helpful tips
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream for a truly great (and effective) hand cream

Pigmentation is so one-sided

This, of course, is an exaggeration.

Recently I had a client come in who had just seen her dermatologist. We were talking about pigmentation and “sun spots” on the skin. Her dermatologist pointed out how she had more pigmentation on the left side of her face, especially around the cheek and chin area as well as her upper neck. My client was shocked to find out that this was due to driving in her car. I see this a lot—even on my own face; there is usually more dark pigmentation on the left side of the face, the side closest to the window of the car. This dark pigmentation is caused from sun exposure—exposure while sitting in your car driving. And if you are rarely the driver but are frequently a passenger in the front seat, you’ll see this discoloration on your right side.

Your hands are also receiving a lot of sun while they are up or around the steering wheel. Look down at your hands next time you’re driving and you’ll see what I mean. Early in my skin care career I (unbelievably) used to wear white gloves when I drove. I felt like a debutante, but I also knew I was keeping the sun off my hands and therefore keeping sun damage away. I progressed to gloves that matched my skin tone, which were harder for onlookers to see (!), and sometimes I would wear my gym gloves. It doesn’t matter what type of gloves you wear, if you are concerned about getting dark spots on the tops of your hands as you age—wear gloves.

The dark areas of discoloration on the tops of the hands (or the face), also known as “liver spots,” “sun spots,” or the dreaded “age spots,” are simply pigmentation spots caused by sun exposure. Those names, by the way, are all describing the same thing. Consider keeping gloves in the car to protect your hands while driving. 

For more information, see 

• Hyperpigmentation: A few Q & As 
• Let Bed Bath & Beyond save your skin! This article will tell you an easy way to keep sunlight from getting to your face and neck while you’re driving (sun your visor can’t protect you from)
• What is Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation?

These gloves would be pointless since they don’t cover the very place you’re trying to protect: the tops of the hands.

Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands

Years ago I came to a place in my life where I could not stand to have dry, scaly hands anymore! Getting through a Chicago or Colorado winter is really challenging unless you have a plan. My hands are in water a lot because of my profession; during each facial my hands are in water or liquids many times. When I’m home, the last thing I want to do is compound my already dry hands with more hard water. So at home I have succumbed to wearing rubber gloves. I wear them to do the dishes, I wear them to clean the house, I wear rubber gloves whenever I want to keep water—especially hot water—off my hands.

At first, I felt silly and confined. But I bought rubber gloves that really fit my hands, and therefore my dexterity is improved over when I was wearing more oversized gloves. I can feel through the gloves, and my hands don’t suffer with exposure to water or cleaning supplies. Putting a little talc, like baby powder, inside the gloves will help your hands get in and out of them easier.

Wearing rubber gloves may sound like an obvious solution, but I have asked many people who have problems with dry hands, and most have not yet discovered the benefits of wearing them. I noticed an immediate difference in the level of dryness of my hands once I started to use rubber gloves. I didn’t have to apply lotion as frequently, and my skin just felt better in general. I don’t do special hand treatments, like paraffin or warm oil with gloves. These would be wonderful, but I just don’t have the time or inclination to do any more than I have to do to have smooth-feeling skin on my hands. Give rubber gloves a try!

For more information to help your hands, see:

• Forgotten Places: The Hands
• Pigmentation is so one-sided 
• Nails: Help for Hangnails  
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream

I don’t personally use these, but why not? Have fun!!

Winter Skin 101

Since almost the entire country is experiencing cold, in fact freezing or below freezing temperatures (like we are in Colorado), I wanted to post several ideas to help you save your skin this winter. Hopefully most of the following information you already know, but I thought it was a good time to give a refresher course in Winter Skin 101. I’m starting from the bottom (feet) up.

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BEST FOOT FORWARD (heels)

I don’t know about you, but my heels get deep cracks in them once the weather turns permanently cold. Not only is it unsightly with the skin getting rough and flaky, but those cracks can really deepen and even become infected—Ouch! If this tends to happen to you, start now to keep that skin soft, supple, well-exfoliated, and of course crack-free.

First, purchase a heel buffer, like what a technician uses in a pedicure. Each night before you go to bed and every time before you get in the shower (or bath), buff away at those heels. You want to use this buffer on dry skin. If your skin is moist, the cells stick to the surface and are harder to eliminate. Then after your bath or shower or before you turn in for the night, be sure to moisturize the heels as well. This will help keep the skin from getting too rough, hopefully mitigating any neglect that caused the dry heel problem in the first place.

For a more intensive treatment: while you’re home for at least an hour or so (perhaps before you go to bed at night), put an intensive treatment cream on your heels. I’m a fan of balms because they are thicker than creams and have a better healing ability. (I have a Shea butter balm that I love.) You can find these types of products at expensive department stores or stores like Target and Walgreens. Check in the skin care aisle and you should be able to find something that fits your budget. There is even a product available that treats dry, cracked and chapped cow udders (yes, you read correctly!)—called Bag Balm—that can help with your dry, cracked heels. When I was a little girl my mom introduced me to Bag Balm and it really does really; it’s also fairly inexpensive. No matter what you end up purchasing, these heavier creams or balms are what you’ll want to use on your dry, cracked heels—often.

After applying your treatment product liberally to your heels, put on socks. It’s best if you don’t have to do much walking around so the cream has a better chance of staying on your skin vs. absorbing into the socks. I like to keep the balm on my nightstand and put it on my heels before I get into bed. If you read or watch TV at night, this foot treatment would be a good thing to do during that time.

I have found my heels don’t even start to crack if I plan ahead and start doing these foot treatments before it gets too cold, then continue treating them throughout the winter. Hopefully you will find relief, too, and you’ll have happy feet all winter long.

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ALLIGATOR SKIN ANYONE?

Exfoliation is step number one for softer, more hydrated skin—whether on your face (see below) or your body. There are several different products and procedures you can use to get rid of dead skin cells. Just remember: always exfoliate first, them moisturize.

If you are not currently moisturizing your entire body every time you get out of the shower or bath, you need to start now—before your skin starts to look and feel like an alligator’s! I can’t go even once without slathering my whole body with lotion after a shower or bath. I admit this is a habit I had to force myself to get into, but now, years later, it is just that—a habit. I haven’t always applied body creams, but once I experienced the hard, cold winters in Chicago (and now Colorado), it became an absolute must. Since it only takes a few seconds to apply, I highly recommend starting this practice each and every time you come out of water. It will do your skin a world of good.

Because there is a lot of surface area to cover, I tend to use inexpensive creams on my body. I am in and out of water frequently (I take lots of baths in the wintertime), so I’ll go through a lot of product. Also, my body lotion must have a pump dispenser. As silly as it might sound, I don’t like having to pick up the bottle, open the top, and shake or squeeze a cream out. Body lotion with a pump dispenser is the solution for me.

Start now to get your whole body exfoliated and moisturized, and keep that alligator skin away. You’ll save yourself a lot of uncomfortable moments once the really cold weather comes to stay for another winter.

For more details, see BODY: The many ways to exfoliate. 

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LEND ME A HAND

Recently a Boulder client was complaining about the fact that her hands get so dry during the winter, and actually somewhat all year round. For those of you who aren’t familiar with Colorado, the air is very dry causing all kinds of dry skin problems—head (including hair!) to toe. Add to the dry air cold winter temperatures and your skin—everyone’s skin here—is in sometimes desperate need of hydration.

My recommendation for this client was to do something similar to what I’m having you do to your dry, cracked heels. For an effective intensive hand treatment:

• Buy thin, surgical gloves (found at stores like Target and possibly your local grocery store)
• Choose a time where you will be home for at least an hour or so and your hands won’t need to be in water (and out of these gloves)
• Liberally apply your foot balm or any other moisturizer (even a simple body lotion will do)
• Then slip your hands into these gloves. They will create an environment where the cream can have a deep moisturizing effect

If you can sleep with the gloves on (or socks for that matter, conditioning your heels) that would be a good way to treat your dry hands all night long. Personally, I can’t have anything on my hands or feet while sleeping, but if you can—do!

Obviously, keeping lotion on your hands whenever possible is a good idea. My hands are in and out of water all day when I’m working, so having lotion on them in between treatments keeps them from getting dried out. I have hand lotion on my nightstand, and also on my coffee table at home. I don’t have to reach far to put some soothing hydrating cream on my hands wherever I am, home or work. Also see:

• Dry Hands? A simple solution for happy, hydrated hands   
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream

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FACE IT—YOU HAVE TO EXFOLIATE!

We’ve now arrived at your face. How many times have I discussed exfoliation? A lot! And why is that? Because it is so important!—especially during the winter months when our skin gets exposed to the extreme elements. Heat from inside our homes and other buildings (including our cars), which takes water out of the air, along with the cold air outside causes dehydration, plain and simple. The best way to treat dehydration is exfoliation.

Please, no hard brushes on the face!

One of the key characteristics of dehydrated skin is an over-accumulation of dried out skin cells. This can make your skin feel rough to the touch and look somewhat sallow or lacking color. Removing some of those dead cells on a regular basis makes your skin feel smooth and soft along with helping to keep it well-hydrated.

You know my favorite way to exfoliate is Yonka’s Gommage. You could also use more common exfoliators, like facial scrubs and AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) products. Whatever you choose to use, exfoliate at least once a week, more often if you’re feeling dried out or flaky. Don’t skip this step! It is essential to helping your facial skin get through the rough winter months.

If you’re not quite clear about what exfoliation is or why you want to exfoliate, see All About Exfoliation to get the full scoop.

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IT ALL ADDS UP

In several of the articles I’ve written concerning dehydration, I’ve included information about adding hydration helpers into your moisturizers to help make them more emollient. Yonka’s Hydra+ (formerly Hydralia) is one such product. Hydra+ is a glycerin-based elixir that adds extra moisture to your skin without adding additional oil. Glycerin is a humectant; it attracts moisture to itself. It makes for an overall good hydrating ingredient in moisturizers and concentrates such as Hydra+. There are, of course, alternatives to using a Yonka product specifically. You could go to the store (Target or Walgreens, for instance) and get a glycerin product. In the past I have found glycerin with rose water, and recently I found straight glycerin (99.5%).

You’ll want to add 4-6 drops of your hydrating elixir into your day and/or night cream, basically mixing your cream and the elixir together in your hands then applying to your face and neck. The same application goes for Hydra+—you’d put 1-2 squirts into your creme, mix, and apply. If you feel you need to add a few more drops, go right ahead. Glycerin is not an oil, so it shouldn’t make your skin feel oily—just hydrated.

Adding glycerin to your creams is a small step that will do an amazing job of super-hydrating your skin. You’ll want to use hydration helpers day and night throughout the winter until it starts warming up or until you don’t feel like you need the extra moisture anymore. If you have true-dry (oil-dry) skin, you might want to or need to use extra hydration all year round.

Finally, I will mention Yonka’s Advanced Optimizer Serum (formerly Optimizer Fluid). This is my all-time favorite product. It has made a huge difference in the hydration level of my skin (especially after moving to Colorado) and has helped many of my clients as well. You’ll want to apply Optimizer Serum under your moisturizer vs. adding it to your creams like you would Hydra+. It, too, adds moisture without adding oil, which makes it perfect for all skin types—even oilier skin.

To read an article explaining the difference between Hydra+ (formerly Hydralia) and Optimizer Serum, click here.

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Last but not least, if you want to add extra moisture to the air inside your home, try using a humidifier. Used in your bedroom while you sleep, it will add much needed moisture into the air (and your lungs) and help to keep your skin from drying out. If you think about it, while you are lying in bed sleeping, the heat in your home is taking moisture out of the air—and of course, your skin too. Using a humidifier can really make a big difference in the hydration level of your skin, both face and body. However, set it up away from furniture to keep any wood from warping.

I hope you can use some of these tools to get you through another winter without having dry skin issues!

For more information, see:

• Forgotten Places: The Hands
• Exfoliation Quick Tips for Facial Scrubs 
• Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin

Me & a few friends on the Mt. Sanitas Trail in Boulder CO