Sensitive Skin explained

What is sensitive skin? 

There are two different kinds of sensitive skin. There is the kind that is sensitive to the touch and the kind that feels sensitive. If you have the kind that is sensitive to the touch, it just means your skin tends to turn red merely by being touched. I have several clients who turn bright red merely by lightly touching their faces. This type of sensitive skin is of little concern when figuring out your skin type. Reactive skin or skin that feels sensitive will itch, burn, or feel irritated when certain disagreeable products are applied. There are many ingredients in the world of cosmetics that can irritate even nonsensitive skin, let alone someone with sensitivities.

You usually know if you have sensitive skin. You’ve experienced it firsthand over the years. You’ve tried dozens of products and skin care lines and have probably reacted to many. If you’ve finally discovered something that doesn’t cause a reaction, you’ll be prone to sticking with what you’ve found for fear of getting “burned”—literally.

It’s hard to determine exactly what products and which ingredients are causing your skin to turn red, burn, or breakout. In case you haven’t discovered the ill effects of the following ingredient on your own, let me advise you: stay away from products that contain fragrance. Many companies add fragrance to their products. A lot of the department store product lines started out as perfumeries and then branched out into skin care and cosmetics. They tend to add their signature fragrance to all (or most) of the products in their line, distinguishing them at least aromatically as their own. These products may smell good, but if you have sensitive skin, watch out. Perfumes and fragrances are not good (or desirable) ingredients for skin care products. If you are sensitive, your skin will no doubt let you know. Along with skin sensitivities, many people are simply allergic to fragrance.

Why is it sensitive? Sensitivities can be caused for many reasons. You may have inherited sensitive skin from one or both parents. You may have spent a lifetime using harsh soaps and drying products on your skin that will inevitably lead to sensitivities. If you have or are currently using Retin-A and/or AHAs, or have had strong glycolic or chemical peels, your skin will no doubt be sensitive. Laser resurfacing may also bring about long-term sensitivities. Couperose skin tends to be sensitive because the capillaries sit so close to the surface and can be reactive. Thin skin is usually more sensitive than thick skin. Thin skin is less impervious to irritants than thick, more protective skin. And finally, skin that has been abused in the sun can become sensitive over time.

What to use on sensitive skin. It may be easier to list what not to use on sensitive skin since what you can use will vary greatly depending on how sensitive you are.

• You want to avoid abrasive scrubs. Although exfoliation is vital to healthy skin, you don’t want to cause more sensitivity by using a harsh scrub. Just imagine rubbing abrasive particles on sensitive skin. It doesn’t even sound good, and it will feel even worse. The gel-type gommage I talk about (and use in my salon) is the best alternative to an irritating scrub.
  
• Soap is another undesirable product. People with sensitive skin want to be especially careful to use only non-alkaline products on their skin. This is very important.
• Once again, avoid fragrance as an ingredient in your face products. Fragrance will almost always cause a reaction even on skins that aren’t considered sensitive. 

• Heat will further exacerbate sensitive skin. As with burns, you want to treat the skin gently, never using anything extreme. 

• You must avoid strong peels. These will do little to benefit the skin and can go a long way to furthering any sensitivities and redness you may already have. It is doubtful a person with very sensitive skin would be able to tolerate a strong peel, but high-percentage acid peels should definitely be avoided. 
• The sun and wind can cause irritation with any skin, especially sensitive skin. Try to cover up as much of your face as possible in cold and/or sunny conditions.

Recommending what to use on sensitive skin will vary based on the oil content of your skin and the origin of the sensitivities. Most product lines address sensitivities, but a sensitive skin type will probably go through more trial and error using products than other kinds of skin. See Determining Skin Type for information about how to determine how much oil your skin is producing, which is where you want to start as far as determining what products you’ll use and for what skin type.

For more information, see:

• Are you sensitive to fragrance?
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A 
• Proper pH & your skin care products
• PLEASE—No Hot Water!

Triphala—to promote your health

You may not have heard of triphala until now. Years ago, I hadn’t either. I was having some trouble with my colon (chronic constipation with on again off again pain) and my acupuncturist recommended triphala. It is a digestive tonic, helping to tone and strengthen the lining of the colon. It is also a digestive aid, helping to gently purge waste and debris stagnated (stuck) within the large intestine. It is nontoxic and non-habit forming, making it an ideal supplement for anyone having digestive problems, most notably constipation.

Triphala is an Ayurvedic formula from India. Ayurvedic medicine is the most ancient form of medicine documented. It revolves around three different constitutions of the human body: pitta, vata, and kapha. Ayurvedic medicine has become more popular in recent years here in the West, and for good reason. Rather than go into a lengthy explanation of Ayurveda, I will simply tell you this approach offers a fascinating view of the body. If you are interested in finding out about yourself through the eyes of this ancient medical way, there are many books on the subject as well as a ton of information on the Internet.

You may be wondering what triphala has to do with your skin. The reason I have included it here is due to the constipation connection. If you have chronic or even occasional constipation, you are not eliminating toxins efficiently. If your body’s toxins are not being released on a daily basis, most notably from the large intestine, this can and will affect the health of your skin. If you suffer from problem skin and you also experience constipation, triphala may be able to help.

What is triphala? Triphala, which means three trees or fruits, is a preparation that combines three of India’s premium herbs into a traditional Ayurvedic formula; amalaki (emblica officinalis); haritaki (chedulic myrobalan); and bhibitaki (beleric myrobalan). It is so popular in India that doctors recommend it for many other maladies other than constipation. Although triphala is sold over the counter, it won’t be found in the grocery or drug store. I have only seen it in health food stores.

What results will I achieve? Triphala is traditionally used to treat constipation. Not only does it offer a laxative effect, but triphala also supports and actually strengthens the digestive tract, especially the lining of the colon walls. It has tremendous detoxifying qualities yet does not deplete the body of essential nutrients. In fact, triphala offers a wide range of beneficial vitamins and nutrients that add to the health of your entire system.

Purgative laxatives (such as Ex-Lax®, for instance) speed up the elimination of debris by irritating the lining of the intestines. Over the counter laxatives like these are not recommended to be used on a regular basis. Herbal laxatives like psyllium husks and flax seeds work by swelling and absorbing the fluids in the intestines and moving stuck mass along in the large intestine and are generally called bulking agents. Triphala works by toning and strengthening the entire large intestine and helping to deep clean the G.I. tract. This helps to alleviate all kinds of built-up toxic residue. This cleansing will give you more energy and help with the overall health of your entire intestinal system.

Triphala is known to:

• improve digestion 
• has been found to reduce serum cholesterol 
• can improve liver function 
• it has proven anti-inflammatory and antiviral properties 
• contains linoleic acid (a component in essential fatty acids (EFAs) important to cell integrity and overall health
• may help lower high blood pressure

Why wouldn’t I take triphala? The only contraindications I could find for this supplement are pregnancy and diarrhea. Otherwise, at least in India, triphala is taken by most people since it is so good on so many levels for supporting health. Check with your healthcare practitioner to be sure triphala is right for you.

Do I need to take triphala? If you suffer from chronic (or even occasional) constipation, you might want to at least try triphala for a period of time to see if it does indeed help you eliminate more efficiently. If you are not getting the garbage out of your body, you are inviting trouble. Toxic waste that is reabsorbed into the bloodstream can bring about a whole host of problems, short- and long-term.

What is the dosage? You will want to experiment with dosage when using triphala. When I first started using it years ago, I had chronic constipation. I started with a low dose (1-2 capsules 2x daily) to get it into my system and let my body get used to its tonic effect. After a week, I upped my dosage since I wasn’t getting any appreciable effects from taking the lower dose. I went up to 2-3 capsules morning and evening. Three seemed to make my bowels too loose, so I went down to 2 capsules twice a day. This seemed to be my personal best dosage.

Experiment for yourself and find the dosage that works for you. The recommendations I have found range from taking 4-6 capsules daily to taking large doses at night (3-4 capsules) to help cleanse and detoxify and then 1-2 capsules before meals for the health building and rejuvenating effects. Triphala is meant to be taken 2 hours before or after meals. In other words—on an empty stomach.

How long should I take triphala? You can take it for a course of treatment to help the constipation you may be experiencing once in a while. But if you have chronic constipation, I would consider taking triphala as a daily supplement to help tone and condition your colon as well as keep your bowels moving. Triphala is actually intended to be used as a regular supplement to your diet, rather than just when symptoms of constipation are present. And the longer you use this tonic preparation, the greater the benefit you will receive.

If you don’t suffer with digestive trouble, you could still try triphala simply because it benefits the system on so many levels. Based on my own experience with taking this supplement, triphala will certainly help support and promote your health.

For a few more ideas for your colon and/or constipation, see:

• Constipation anyone?
• How chlorophyll can help your skin (and ease constipation)  
• Tips to help you Drink More Water!

Why you want to get Acupuncture

I love receiving acupuncture!

New clients who come in for facials or return clients who may have a major skin change are asked a series of questions geared to help me determine areas in their lives that may be contributing to their skin problems. I am looking for dietary habits with the number one offender being sugar. However, sometimes a client has major skin eruptions, but clearly follows a strict and clean diet, free from sugar and other toxic foods. If my client is female, I ask if she is having normal (for her) periods along with other questions that might lead me to believe she has some imbalances hormonally. If it is a male client, he could also be experiencing some hormonal fluctuations that might be factors in skin problems.

When it comes to hormonal matters, this is where my expertise ends, and I send them to a specialist. And my specialist of choice is an acupuncturist. Unlike some medical doctors, a doctor of acupuncture has a unique and wholistic* view of the human body and how it functions. Acupuncture and its medicinal attributes have been practiced, as far as recorded history tells us, for well over 2,000 years. How can I ignore the potential benefits of something that has survived this long? I can’t! And I welcome you to explore this ancient healing technique, not only to help balance your skin problems, but also to ensure the health of your entire body—on a regular basis.
*I always spell “holistic” with a “w” because it is about wholeness!

I get acupuncture as a matter of course once a month. I do this not because I have health issues or problem skin, but as a preventative measure to ensure my body stays in a balanced state. Twenty or more years ago, when I initially started receiving regular treatments, I noticed a normalizing of my monthly cycle. The duration of my periods was shorter, cramping was less severe, and I just felt more in balance. I directly related these changes to my acupuncture treatments. Most acupuncturists say it is optimal to get the treatment just before the monthly period starts. Back then, when I still had periods, I would schedule an acupuncture appointment just before I was expecting to menstruate.

Why should you get acupuncture? Speaking as an aesthetician, I would send someone to an acupuncturist if he or she is having skin problems that I cannot identify as having a dietary base. I realize some of my clients don’t admit to all the bad things they may be eating, but there are some people for whom diet is not the issue with their skin.

Many women have irregular menstrual cycles. This not only can affect their skin, but it is simply not good for a healthy, balanced body. So even if skin is not a problem, if a female client comes in who I know has menstrual problems, I will recommend acupuncture.

Speaking as an acupuncture client, I think everyone should get acupuncture. It helps to balance and maintain health. Who couldn’t benefit from that? I realize there is a stigma in the West concerning services like acupuncture. If the fear of needles doesn’t stop you, then perhaps the intangible nature of the healing power of acupuncture will. I assure you the needles are not an issue in the slightest. In most cases you won’t even know when they are being used—really! I have a client who I sent to get treatment. She was so apprehensive—mostly because of the needles. Once she was on the treatment table for a few minutes, she asked the doctor when he was going to start working on her. He chuckled and told her to look down where he was standing. She had several acupuncture needles already going to work, and she didn’t feel a thing as he administered them. By the way, this was years ago, and this client continues to get regular acupuncture treatments today.

What should you look for in an acupuncturist? I think whenever you are looking for a therapist, finding someone who speaks your language is important. I don’t mean your language as in English or Spanish. I mean finding a doctor who you can relate to and who can relate to you—someone you are comfortable with. If you don’t have a good feeling about your therapist or they relate to you in some way that makes you feel uncomfortable, this can compromise the efficacy of your treatments.

I always recommend making an initial phone call to the person you are thinking about going to. This way you can ask some basic questions and also get a feel for who this person is and how he or she might treat your problems. Obviously the information you receive over the phone will be limited, but still you can gain some insight into your prospective therapist by calling first.

Where can you find acupuncture? Getting referrals is always a good place to start. Ask around and see if you can find someone in your circle of friends who gets acupuncture or knows someone who does and who is satisfied with his or her specialist. If you see a D.O. (Doctor of Osteopathy), many times they are in the know about “alternative” treatments such as acupuncture. You can try the National Certification Commission of Acupuncture and Oriental Medicine website (NCCAOM). They list everyone who is licensed, so it may be a bit daunting to “pick one” from this extensive list, but you can give it a try.

How often should you get acupuncture? This question is best answered by your acupuncturist. For years I have gotten monthly acupuncture treatments. I do this for the benefit of prevention, not because I have specific needs. My need is to keep my body in balance and to do as many things possible to ensure this state of health. Acupuncture is one of my favorite ways of staying well. And acupuncture is something I highly recommend.

For more information, see:

• Acupuncture explained (a detailed explanation of what acupuncture is and how it can help you, written by a licensed practitioner)
  
• Melanie’s acupuncture story
• Alternative Medicine—the power of choice

All About Exfoliation

What is exfoliation? 

As we age, the regeneration process slows down. This process includes the making and shedding of skin cells. When we’re young, our skin is functioning just about perfectly. Skin cells are “born,” then they rise to the surface, where they are shed at a very rapid pace. As regeneration starts to slow down (around age 25), the new cells being formed travel to the surface more slowly and tend to pile up on the outside of the skin. The removal of these dead cells is called exfoliation. It allows the younger, newer cells to come up to the surface, making the skin feel softer and look brighter. Exfoliating on a regular basis is one of the most important things you can do for your skin.

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Why exfoliate? 

Dead skin and oil cause plugs to form inside your pores. Keeping the buildup of dead cells to a minimum is important in keeping the pores free from congestion. Not only will exfoliating help maintain clean pores, it will also help your outer skin feel soft and smooth. In addition, exfoliating helps stimulate blood circulation, leaving your cells well nourished and healthy. Whenever you exfoliate, you can lift a dull complexion off your face and replace it with smooth skin that reflects light. In other words, exfoliation gives you a healthy glow.

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What to use?

Scrubs are the most commonly known products for exfoliation. They are a blend of an emollient-based cream or gel with some type of abrasive granules mixed in. These abrasive particles can be organic matter like apricot seeds or tiny polyurethane beads that are synthetic. Because these balls are perfectly round (unlike the irregular shape of seeds), manufactures tout their superiority over seeds. They say the organic seeds may scratch the skin’s surface; the rounded balls will not. Be aware that these synthetic beads are so round and tiny that they can easily become lodged in your pores and may be difficult to get out if you’re not careful.

My experience with these perfectly shaped beads has not been positive. One evening I was experimenting with a new scrub containing the synthetic particles. After rinsing the scrub off my face, I looked in the mirror and discovered one perfect little bead had found a home in a pore on my nose. This foreign object wasn’t easy to remove and had I not seen it, it surely would have caused problems. Unless it eventually came out on its own, this little bead could have stretched that particular pore, if not caused something worse down the road.

So if you do end up using a scrub with synthetic particles, just be extra careful. Don’t press hard while scrubbing, and closely examine your skin afterwards to make sure you have removed everything from your face. The seed-type scrubs do not usually cause the aforementioned problem, but make sure not to grind the scrub (or anything) into your skin. Although the outer skin is resilient, you still don’t want to mash anything into it. As long as you are not sensitive and you use one with care, it is doubtful you can harm your skin (by scratching the surface) with a scrub.

Scrubs should not be used on problem skin or red, irritated skin. If you have acne, scrubs are definitely out. The abrasive particles in a scrub can easily open up any infected areas, allowing bacteria to spread, not to mention the irritation a scrub will cause on these sensitive places. A simple rule of thumb is if your skin is red (for whatever reason), don’t use a scrub.

Scrubs are excellent for stimulating blood circulation, and this heightened blood flow helps to nourish skin cells. However, scrubs do a minimal job of exfoliating. They just don’t get rid of a lot of dead skin. Additionally, after you rinse the scrub off and pat your skin dry with a towel, you may experience a feeling of dryness. This is actually dehydration. You have not only removed some dead cells, but all the oil and water from your skin as well. Unfortunately, this can leave your skin feeling depleted. This is one reason I prefer a gel-type gommage for exfoliating, which is discussed later. These products add moisture to the skin through the gel substance instead of removing it like a scrub can.

Papaya enzyme peels are another way to exfoliate. They are a little more effective than a scrub in terms of exfoliation. You generally won’t have any problems with irritation since these enzyme peels don’t contain granules. The enzymes help to decompose skin cells as well as increase circulation. Typically you apply the peel to your entire face like a mask. As it dries, the product is rubbed off (gently), helping to remove any dead cell buildup on the surface of your skin.

The best and most effective thing to use when exfoliating is a gommage, which is a nonabrasive, gel-type peel. These are harder to find, but they do exist. Rather than using abrasive particles like a scrub, a gommage has a hydrating gel base that gives it a deep moisturizing effect. By massaging this soft peel into your skin (increasing circulation), the gel adheres to your outer dead cells. As the product dries, eraser-like flakes start to appear. These flakes signal the gommage is lifting off surface cells. (In French, gommer means to erase.) This will leave your skin feeling very smooth and refined without any irritation from seeds or granules like those found in scrubs.

A gel exfoliator is perfect for problem or acne skin because it lessens the potential for opening any lesions or irritating already sensitive skin. Gel exfoliators can also be used around the eyes. This skin needs exfoliation just like the rest of your face. Due to the delicate nature of the undereye tissue, you never want to use an abrasive scrub there. When using a gommage or anything around or under your eyes, never rub or get aggressive with your skin.

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How to exfoliate. 

Each individual exfoliating product will have its own set of instructions, so basically you'll just follow the directions given for the product you are using. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• You want to exfoliate your face as well as your neck. I always exfoliate the tops of my hands as well. 
• When you’re applying either a scrub or gommage, you want to use light, circular movements—never pulling or digging into the skin. 
• Scrubs always need to be used on wet skin. Gommage or enzyme peels are usually applied to dry skin. 
• Whether using a scrub or a gel peel, never use too much pressure—just enough to get the job done. Your skin is resilient, but it is delicate at the same time. Constant rubbing and pulling can affect the elasticity in the long term.

Be careful when using a scrub around your ears not to get any product into the actual ear canal. You can gently scrub behind and in front of your ears, but don’t intentionally put scrub inside your ears.

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When to exfoliate?

Depending on what you’re using, you should exfoliate at least once a week. The more you exfoliate, the smoother and healthier your skin will look and feel. This, of course, is assuming you have found an exfoliator that works well for your particular skin. Use a scrub or gommage after cleansing and before moisturizing. (If you plan to use a clay mask, exfoliate prior to masking.) If you look in the mirror and wish you could have a facial (or feel you need one), it’s a good time to exfoliate. After exfoliating, use Step 2: Toner, then Step 3: Moisturizer (and eye cream), and you’re finished.

I hope after reading this post you’ll feel like exfoliating!

For more information, read:

• Tarzan exfoliates
• Exfoliation Quick Tips for Facial Scrubs
• What IS Gommage? for more information on this important—and effective—exfoliation product

Melanoma—the deadliest skin cancer

Skin cancer is a real and lethal threat. Many people seem to have a lackadaisical approach to their skin and having moles checked. Even when it has been recommended to have a growth checked out, many times people don’t heed the call. The bottom line is, skin cancer—melanoma specifically—can kill you. And the good news is, if detected early, melanoma is usually totally curable. In fact, it is one of the only curable forms of cancer. It is also preventable to a large degree. Prevention involves being hyperaware of sun exposure and wearing hats, wearing protective clothing, and sunscreen whenever (and however long) you are in the sun. Don’t risk your life: go to your dermatologist. If you don’t have one, get one, and have a full-body check done on your moles. Why wait?

The following are some stories from clients and friends about their melanoma experiences. They are good examples of the importance of getting regular mole checkups. If you need to find a dermatologist in your area, CLICK HERE to be taken to the American Academy of Dermatology find a dermatologist page.

Roxanne’s story. I always recommend clients get a full body check when they go to their dermatologists, no matter what the reason is for the visit. During a normal office visit, the doctor might not check all of your moles, so be sure to ask for that service. Don’t pass up any opportunity to get your moles looked at. Luckily my client, Roxanne, followed this advice.

I sent her in for a funny-looking mole on her forehead. The good news is the mole wasn’t anything to worry about. The other news is rather shocking. As the doctor did a check of all of her moles, she noticed something on Roxanne’s left forearm, on the underside. After the biopsy, this small mole turned out to be malignant melanoma—the deadliest type of skin cancer.

Poor Roxanne. She had just given birth to her second child and the news of skin cancer was understandably quite upsetting. Melanoma can kill you if gone undetected. It enters the blood stream, and unlike the slow growing basal cell carcinoma, it spreads rapidly and eventually affects the entire body if given a chance.

Roxanne is now sporting a rather large (compared to the size of the mole) scar on her arm. It’s a small price for living a life fulfilled. Without the keen eye of a skin doctor, this mole might have gone unnoticed for years, eventually causing Roxanne more problems than just a long scar. Don’t delay, get your moles checked today!

Sally’s story. Sally went to her dermatologist for an annual mole check. During the examination, the doctor noted a small freckle on her back that she wasn’t even aware of and had it removed to biopsy. Sally wasn’t really worried about the removal of this spot—until the results from the tests came back: melanoma in situ, which is an early stage of skin cancer. She went in to get the area surrounding the original spot removed until no cancerous cells were found.

Sally is one of the lucky ones. Luck didn’t have anything to do with the fact that she schedules regular visits with her dermatologist. That is simply smart on her part. Her story goes to show you that these regular exams are crucial in keeping skin cancer from having too long to proliferate. Without this exam, Sally might not have ever noticed this spot on her back, and that could have been fatal in time.

If you are in the sun on a regular basis, you really should have a regular mole check at your dermatologist. If you are not in the sun a lot, but are over 35 or 40 years old, I recommend getting a baseline check (the initial data recorded about your moles and skin irregularities), and then going in annually to be sure nothing has changed with any spots or moles.

Sally will now be visiting her dermatologist more often than once a year to be sure there aren’t any more problem places and to keep an eye on the spot where the cancer was removed. This is a small inconvenience for keeping skin cancer away. Found early, skin cancer is treatable.

Ronald’s story. My friend Ronald was in town on business, and we met for dinner one night. He asked me about the book I was writing at the time, and I told him I was currently writing the section on melanoma. He proceeded to tell me his father’s skin cancer story.

His dad had a biopsy done on some unusual moles, and for whatever reason, never got the lab results back. The doctor never called him, and he just figured no news was good news. Unfortunately, he did have malignancies, and over time they took over his body, and he eventually died of malignant melanoma. This is one of those rare cases of an oversight, but it can and does happen.

I tell this story so you will be sure to get the lab analysis of any skin biopsies that are taken, even if the tests show the growths are benign (non-cancerous). This may seem obvious, but every once in a while a mistake takes place due to human error, as this story so tragically illustrates.

I keep reiterating to “get your moles checked” for a reason: This simple act can save your life—literally. Don’t take seeing your dermatologist for granted. In this case it is better to be safe than be sorry.

For more information, see:

• Skin Cancer ABCs
• My Skin Cancer Story: Please read this!
• Basal cell carcinoma: Introduction 
• Skin changes due to sun exposure