Skin sensitivity and a possible allergic reaction to products: what to do

I’m wondering if my skin is too sensitive for one or both of the [Yonka] cremes I am currently using. If I look at my skin in the light from a certain angle, it appears to have the finish of a very fine grit sandpaper. My skin doesn’t hurt, and it doesn’t appear to be rashed to the point of looking red, but it just seems to be somewhat irritated. I have noticed this for quite some time now, but because it doesn’t hurt I didn’t think it was a concern.

I’m not exfoliating or even masking, thinking they might further irritate my skin. I haven’t made any changes in my diet that might be causing this either. What do you think? Is this normal for facial skin to have very small bumps all over it? I really notice the bumps on my cheek, jawline, and upper lip area. I would greatly appreciate your insight.

First of all—no!—it is not normal to have this type of reaction to a product. Your skin is always telling you if it likes something or not. Even if those bumps already existed yet seemed to get worse after first introducing the new (Yonka or any other) product, that too is not “normal.”

The only way you’ll know for sure if the skin problems your are experiencing are due to the moisturizing creams is to stop using them completely and see if your skin clears up. If you can, go back to the moisturizers you were using before you switched to Yonka—use them for at least a week, two would be better. This should be enough time for your skin to recover, if only slightly. If you notice an improvement, then you’ll know something in the Yonka products are causing the skin issues.

However, it might be only one of the Yonka creams you are having a reaction to, a certain set of ingredients. If you’re up for the test, do a controlled experiment, and (after your skin is back to normal) use just one of the Yonka creams morning and night: let’s say the day cream. You will probably notice any reaction within a day or two. If you don’t get a reaction—great!

Then, stop using the day cream (am/pm) and start using the night cream morning and night. If you do get a reaction, voila: that was the offending product. If you don’t get a reaction with this cream either, I would start using the day cream for day and night cream at night and see if after this second go-round you don’t react. Sometimes starting a new group of products can prove too much at once for a more sensitive skin. If after this experiment your skin seems fine with both creams, that might just have been the case with you.

Obviously, if you use one or both of the products again and have the same reaction with one or both—that is just not a cream you will be able to use going forward. There are numerous wonderful moisturizers in the Yonka line and I can sample you some to see if you can use them or if your skin just doesn’t like Yonka in general.  

It will take some time, but without doing a controlled experiment, you’ll never know if the creams are the problem or if it is something else. If you are willing, do this and please let me know how your skin is doing. My guess is, based on the information you gave me, that you are having a reaction to something in your new Yonka creams. Having use this product line for over 3 decades, I can say for a fact that this rarely happens, but it can happen.

Since both your day cream and night cream are both Yonka, it might be the common elements in these creams that your skin doesn’t like and therefore you may not be able to use this line of products. However, it could be just one or two ingredient in one of the creams. If this is the case, and the experiment should provide this information, then we might be able to narrow down the ingredient you are reacting to. I can sample you some other creams from Yonka and hopefully they will be winners for you.

I agree with not using any other types of products on your skin while it’s in reaction, such as an exfoliator (sure to further irritate) or any type of mask, clay or hydrating, since that will be sitting on top of irritated skin. That is never a good idea. So until your skin returns to “normal,” I would hold off of doing anything except this experiment and once all is back to the way it should be, you can then proceed to exfoliate and mask as you usually do.

It’s pretty simple, really. If something is irritating your skin or you think it is—stop using it! Then, after an ample period of time, if your skin seems to be doing better, the product you were using is probably not something to use going forward. If you don’t notice any difference, the product is most likely OK to use, and you’ll have to put your investigator hat on to figure out what is causing the problem.

For more information, see:

• Allergic Reactions to Products & The 72-Hour Test
• Sensitive Skin: Q & A
• Help for Breakouts

Dark Circles Q & A

I have very dark circles that are genetic and require concealer. I have had difficulties with eye creams that don’t blend well with concealer or somehow increase the dryness or are too oily, making the concealer settle and crease in the wrinkles beneath my eyes.

I was looking at an alpha hydroxy eye cream for wrinkle prevention. I also saw an eye cream that said it helped with the dark circles. But I am not sure whether either of these would work with concealer and makeup during the day. I was hoping perhaps you could help me.

Dark circles (darkness under the eye area) is a big concern for a lot of people. Below I will answer this reader’s question part by part in hopes to make sense of how to take care of this eye area concern.

I have very dark circles that are genetic and require concealer. Genetic is the operative word here. If you know your dark circles stem from a genetic predisposition, then please know that no product, miracle or not, is going to rid you of your genetic “gifts.” How do you know if they’re genetic? Look at your parents and even their parents. If you see dark circles wherever you turn, then you are just carrying on the family tradition.

I have had difficulties with eye creams that don’t blend well with concealer or somehow increase the dryness or are too oily, making the concealer settle and crease in the wrinkles beneath my eyes. Eye cream shouldn’t make the skin around your eyes feel dry. You may be having an allergic reaction or an intolerance to one or more of the ingredients. If the eye cream makes the skin too oily, you may be putting too much on (only use a small amount, but often), or it just may be too rich a cream for your skin. When you use concealer around the eyes, it will crease inside the wrinkles no matter if you use eye cream or not. Like foundation (both contain pigment), concealer will usually accentuate the lines and wrinkles.

I was looking at an alpha hydroxy eye cream for wrinkle prevention. I also saw an eye cream that said it helped with the dark circles. But I am not sure whether either of these would work with concealer and makeup during the day. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) do help with lines and wrinkles because they decompose microscopic bits of skin, leaving the surface of your face smoother and the texture refined. They don’t prevent wrinkles—nothing really does. Creams that say they help with dark circles might help, but only to a certain degree.

As far as AHAs or creams for dark circles working with your concealer, you will have to experiment and see. After applying your eye cream, try waiting at least 5-10 minutes before putting the concealer on. This might help with some of the creasing.

I am thinking of having surgery to remove my dark circles. Do you think there is something else I can do to get rid of them?

Surgery can only take adipose (fat) from that area; it will do nothing for the capillaries or blood vessels. I am not a proponent of surgery. Toxins in our bodies will contribute to the darkness around the eyes. The skin is very thin and shows vascular changes quite easily. So, if your internal health is optimal, usually the darkness will subside, unless of course you are genetically predisposed to dark circles.

I know from personal experience that on the morning after eating sugar, I have noticeable dark circles under my eyes. I believe this is due to an inflammatory response (similar to an allergic reaction) that sugar causes in my body. The same holds true for alcohol consumption. I see the same response (dark circles) after a night of even moderate drinking.

Eating sugar, drinking alcohol, smoking cigarettes, not getting enough sleep at night, and other environmental factors can all contribute to your problem. Change what you are putting in your body (really, give this serious consideration) and see what effects it has on your dark circles.

For more information, see.

• Allergic Reactions to Products & The 72-Hour Test 
• Will my puffy eyes ever go away? Help! 
• An effective treatment for puffy eyes using Yonka’s Phyto Contour (This product is also helpful for dark circles.)

Yonka’s discontinued Serums and their replacement Boosters

I have worked with Yonka products for over 30 years. In the last five years, this product line has gone through more changes than in the previous twenty-five. Some changes I like, others I don’t. In all of the articles I write I give you my honest opinion as an aesthetician working with this line of products. I can say that I will always continue to use Yonka-Paris products, but I hope in my heart Yonka doesn’t lose its soul with all the changes taking place.

These 4 new Booster serums will replace some of the oldest products and formulations in the Yonka line. In one case, Hydra+ replaces Hydralia that recently replaced Dermols 1, 2 & 3. As I said, there has been a lot of changes with Yonka products! Defense+ is a brand new product in the line and will have a detailed article available soon.

   

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Yonka Serum is one of the oldest and most loved products in the Yonka lineup. NUTRI+ booster is its replacement. 

As an aesthetician I have no say-so in the changes that take place with the products I use. It is sometimes a difficult task to encourage and support my clients to purchase and use a newer product when the “old one” was working just fine. I have yet to get a sample of this new serum, but I can only hope it hasn’t changed from the basic formulation of Yonka Serum.

Here is the information that Yonka headquarters has provided about this serum booster:

NUTRI+ Nutrition Booster with cereal germ oils
Are you feeling tired? Is your skin lacking comfort? Bid adieu to signs of tiredness, discomfort and dryness with NURTI+. Its incredible vitamin-packed cocktail give your skin an instant boost.

Its secret: cereal germ oils with a nourishing and regenerating action, combined with the 5 Quintessence Yonka essential oils [thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary]. Now revitalized and nourished, your skin is positively glowing.

Skin is nourished: 89%
Shows a boost in energy: 74%

The percentages the company uses (based on tests Yonka has performed on real people) seem wonderful at first glance but as a professional I don’t quantify products in this way. To say a skin care treatment gives your skin a “74% boost in energy” seems not only impossible to prove—really—but it just sounds ridiculous to me. Regardless, using percentages is the new way Yonka is choosing to present their product information. Perhaps you, the consumer, like this kind of language. Anywho—if Nutri+ is anything like Yonka Serum, it will be a lovely, true-oil product that will help hydrate and boost circulation in your skin.

For more information, see:

• NUTRI+—repairing, nourishing facial oil

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HYDRA+ replaces the very recently replaced Dermols replaced by Hydralia. Confused? For years Yonka had glycerin-based hydration boosters called The Dermols (1, 2 and 3). The three different Dermol products were replaced in 2012 with one homogenized version called Hydralia. At the time, I made my thoughts known: I was disappointed that these 3 distinctly different products had all of the sudden become one. And now, Hydralia has been morphed into the new booster: Hydra-plus.

I have used this product in treatment. Like Dermol 3, Hydra+ also has blackcurrant extract. When Hydralia came out, I was disappointed Dermol 3 had been discontinued. It was great for sensitive, couperouse, and rosacea skin. With that said, the scent of Dermol 3 wasn’t everyone’s favorite. Now Hydra+ has this distinct blackcurrant aromatic. My hope is this doesn’t turn a lot of people off of Hydra-plus. I love this scent, but many people do not. Hydra+ works just like the Dermols and Hydralia did. Since Hydra+ is replacing Hydralia, this will be the only glycerin-based, non-oily choice for adding extra hydration without increasing oil in client’s skin. Here is what Yonka headquarters has to say:

HYDRA+ Hydration booster with blackcurrant
When your skin feels thirsty and taut, there is no time to lose. HYDRA+ is a real boost of hydrating active ingredients, including vegetable glycerin, which quenches its thirst instantly and efficiently. The 100% natural blackcurrant extract reinforces the cream's soothing feeling as soon as it is applied. Your skin is immediately softer, more comfortable and more supple.

Skin is better hydrated: +30% hydration

Several of my clients absolutely love this new product. The most common comment I hear is how this product really helped to relieve redness and sensitivity. Here is a comment from one of them:

I can’t believe how well HYDRA + worked! It reduced the redness of my skin to the point where I didn’t need to wear makeup. I love it!

For more information, see:

• HYDRA+: For Extra Hydration—without adding oil

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LIFT+ replaces Galbol 90. For me this is a non-event. I never used nor sold Galbol 90. I have always felt it was a superfluous product. I don’t believe a product, Yonka or not, can truly “lift” tissue that is sagging due to age and gravity. However, both this and Galbol 90 have exceptional ingredients. I just couldn’t ever find room for it in my skin care routine or recommend it to my clients. But try it and see if you get results. Let me know—I love hearing success stories! From headquarters:

 
LIFT+ Firmness Booster with rosemary
When your skin lacks tone, get things moving with Lift+. Core ingredients: 20 plants including rosemary with its firming and toning action, combined with the 5 Quintessence Yonka essential oils [thyme, lavender, cypress, geranium, and rosemary]. Skin is firmer and more toned. Face and neck shape is redefined.

Skin is firmer and toned: 90%

For more information, see:

• LIFT+—firming, hydrating concentrate

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DEFENSE+ is a totally new product from Yonka and does not replace any existing product in the line. Can it reduce the “appearance” of wrinkles by 25%? I will let you know once I’ve tried it. I have yet to receive any in depth information from Yonka regarding Defense plus. Once I do, I will pass it on to you. Here is what Yonka says about this new product:

DEFENSE+ Antioxidant Booster with pine tree polyphenols

UV rays, pollution, smoking, etc. Say no to the free radicals that weaken your skin and accelerates the aging process. Fight back by using Defense+. Its pine bark polyphenols, known to be incredible antioxidants, enhance your skin's resistance to external aggressions, and its cocktail of organic oils helps reconstruct the skin's protective barrier. Featuring the heart and soul of the Yonka brand DNA, 5 proprietary essential oils: Quintessence Yonka essential oils. Now resilient and better protected, your skin will become more radiant and beautiful, and signs of aging will be reduced.

Complexion is brighter: 75%
Complexion dullness is reduced: 80%
Overall wrinkle appearance: -25%

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I will continue to update you on all the changes going on with Multaler, Inc/Yonka-Paris. I think change is basically good, but some changes are easier to take than others!

For more information, see:

• Yonka—Discontinued: All links so far
• Yonka Serums & Concentrates: all links so far
• Yonka Products/Misc Info: all links so far

Lavender Quick Tip

After a smoke-filled night (in a bar or club, for instance), you can take a shower or bath to wash the smell off your skin, but what about your hair? It’s late and you don’t want to go to bed with wet hair, so what can you do? Essential oils to the rescue!

• Take an essential oil you love (I think lavender, ylang ylang, or a citrus oil would be best)
• Put several drops (4-6) in the palm of your hand; 
• Rub your hands together and 
• Then go over your hair.

Be sure to get the underside as well as the top of your hair. Just mix the oils in really well and you won’t have to go to bed smelling like cigarette smoke.

Smoking is not allowed in many public places nowadays. But even if you just have a smoking break outside during work hours, you still will smell like smoke whether you think you do or not. For people like me, we can smell the essence of cigarette smoke from miles away. Just a touch of lavender will keep it from being obvious to those who work around you.

For more information, see:

• Lavender: A Medicine Cabinet Must!—updated
• Stop Bugging Me!—Help for Bug Bites
• Essential Oils: a primer

Yonka sunscreen recommendation question

UPDATE 8/2020: Yonka has been discontinuing products left and right in recent years. It makes it not only hard to keep up, but it also makes some of my articles somewhat moot. Case in point—below. Rather than rewrite this, I have decided to keep it as is and let you know that both Yonka SPF 20 and SPF 25 have been discontinued. The only sunscreen at the moment that is available from Yonka-Paris is their SPF 50. Hopefully in the future they will come out with more options for sun protection; still SPF 50 is a wonderful and protective sun cream.

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I have been buying Yonka products from you for about 10 years now. I have a question: I will be going on a cruise in April. The last cruise I took I was unable to find a sunscreen that didn’t burn my face. I’m also looking for a lightweight-feeling one. I was wondering if you could send me some samples of your Yonka sunscreens for me to try. Then I’ll know which one I need to order.

Unfortunately, Yonka only samples their SPF 25. Both SPF 20 & 50 have no samples available. Many times I create a “sample” by emptying a sample toner bottle then squirting one of the sunscreens inside and labeling the bottle so there is no confusion. I actually empty several bottles in advance and store them so the liquid has plenty of time to dry before I add a product inside.

The best lightweight sunscreen in the Yonka line is definitely SPF 20. Although it’s labeled a “spray,”  it actually does not spray—you will squirt the sunscreen in your palm just like any other product.

Taking the place of the discontinued (and much loved by me and many of my clients) Lait Solaire, SFP 20 is comparable in its thinner nature—more like a “lotion” vs. a thicker “cream” consistency.

With this or any sunscreen, Yonka or other brand, sunscreen is meant to keep your skin from burning—not from any and all sun exposure. What this will look like, especially during a cruise on the ocean, is your skin will definitely get tanned. But if you use your sunscreen product frequently and apply it well, you should avoid sunburns throughout your trip.

For more information, see:

• SPF 50: UVA/UVB Sunscreen
• SUNSCREENS: The WHAT & WHY plus the importance of REAPPLYING
• The BEST Self-Tanner! Lait Auto-Bronzant