Advanced Steps for Cleansing

If you want to have extra help when you’re cleansing (especially if you have breakout), try adding clay mask to your cleanser. You don’t need to do this, but I recommend experimenting with it and see if your face doesn’t feel a little cleaner after using this “advanced” technique. Truly there isn’t anything revolutionary or high-level about this, really, but I always commend those of you who choose to anything above and beyond your Basics routine.

In order to mix these two products together, I suggest these simple steps:

• Squirt or pump or squeeze your cleanser into the palm of your hand 
• Take your clay mask and mix some into the cleanser
• I would use two parts cleanser to one part clay. This will give you a little deeper cleanse, along with a slight exfoliating action. 

Due to clay’s earth nature, it does have a semi-granular texture. So if you have a lot of infection to your breakout, don’t use this or just be sure not to rub too hard. You never want to break open your blemishes, unless you are purposely extracting them.

Another recommendation is to add equal parts of a facial scrub with your cleanser. I typically use this mixture when I’m cleansing my face in the shower. I do this primarily for the circulatory benefits, but if you are sensitive to scrubs, try this suggestion. By adding some scrub of choice to your cleanser (only a liquid or milky kind), you can get a little bit of exfoliating without irritating your skin.

For more information, see:

• The Basics 1-2-3 Program
• CLEANSERS 101: What IS a cleanser? What to look for and what NOT to use—updated
• All About Exfoliation

Why You Don’t Want To Use A Magnifying Mirror

At the end of Chapter One of Timeless Skin I wrote:

I strongly recommend not using a magnifying mirror when it comes to looking at your face. Unless you require one to apply makeup, there is no need to make yourself crazy with this unrealistic view of your skin. No one looking at your skin can see what shows up through magnification. Not even you!

Recently a new client, Diane, called me about her problem skin, wondering if I could help her. We spoke for a few minutes, and she booked a facial. She came in without makeup, and I noticed her skin looked to be in pretty good shape although she reiterated her concern for “all the breakouts” she was experiencing. At first glance I thought perhaps she had gotten a little too much sun over her lifetime, but all in all, she didn’t have a lot of problems that I could see. Later I would look at her skin under magnification. That would tell me the real story.

I filled out a questionnaire and proceeded with the facial. I asked what her top concerns were regarding her skin and she replied, “I want to stop all the breakouts and stop my skin from aging.” I stepped up onto my soapbox about the aging process, basically explaining to her my philosophy that “you will age!” And yes, certain things can be done to keep the process from speeding up, but certainly nothing can ultimately be done to literally stop the aging process from happening.

As I examined her skin, I wasn’t finding the breakout she complained about. I could see some residual spots clearing from previous infections, but her skin looked good to me with just a few areas that needed clearing. She simply had normal skin with a few spots here and there, but nothing major. The first red flag presented itself.

I questioned her about her diet and found out she didn’t eat well. Normally she ate lots of fast foods and was a consumer of large amounts of sugar. (She did have a few places on her nose that looked to me like sugar spots—tiny infections with sebum in the middle, but she was lucky her skin wasn’t a mess due to her diet.) I thought to myself, “Something is wrong here; we are not seeing eye to eye.” This is not to say that a client’s view of his or her skin is always the same as my own opinion. But with Diane, she really had a very critical view of her skin, and I wasn’t able to concur.

When I look at a client’s skin, I am comparing what I see to thousands of clients who have come before. And in Diane’s case, I not only wouldn’t classify her skin as the worst I’ve seen, but she wouldn’t even make the list of clients with problem skin. I was beginning to realize her problem was something other than with her skin.

Later in the facial she started asking me what she could do about “all the hair on her face.” What hair? She meant the normal, everyday, run-of-the-mill peach fuzz we all have on our faces. “You need to leave it alone,” I said.

Then it hit me: She has a magnifying mirror. I asked her if she used one and sure enough, I was right. Everything looked huge through her magnifying mirror—her pores, the hair on her face, any small blemish that might be present—everything! No wonder she had a skewed view of her skin. Nothing looks normal under magnification! She had been looking at her skin from the point of view of almost seven times its normal size.

She said she needed to use the mirror to tweeze her brows. I asked Diane if she could restrain herself and only use the magnifying mirror to shape her brows and not look at her skin. She said she would try. It would take discipline, but I have faith that where there’s a will, there’s a way.

I wanted to tell Diane’s story to illustrate how you can drive yourself crazy by looking at yourself enlarged. What would it be like if we magnified our voices seven times the normal volume or magnified pain seven times? Don’t magnify your perfectly good skin seven times larger by looking at it through a magnifying mirror! Otherwise you are simply and completely setting yourself up for failure, disappointment, and ultimately for taking steps to solve a problem you probably don’t even have.

Trust me, don’t use magnifying mirrors for anything other than applying makeup (if you can’t see very well), shaping your eyebrows*, or for some other positive reason. And if you do have problems with your skin, looking through a magnifying mirror certainly isn’t going to help clear it up. Looking at your lifestyle habits and making better choices will be a surer way to bring about long-term, permanent change.

*Using a magnifying mirror to shape your eyebrows can be equally disastrous for your skin if you don’t use restraint. Once again, no one can see the stray hair of your brows unless he or she is standing extremely close to your face. What usually happens is you will see hair that no one else can see, perhaps hair that isn’t even ready to be tweezed. You go after it, can’t get it, and then have to get it. Due to your diligence you break the skin, causing a tear, which will cause a scab to form. You may have gotten that stray hair, but now you have a very obvious scab or scabs on your brows. You have just given attention to something you were trying to conceal.

To read more on waxing and tweezing, see:

• Just Say NO to a Lip Wax!
• Eyebrows: Should you wax or tweeze? 

For more skin care no-nos, see:

• PLEASE—No Hot Water! 
• Just say NO to comedone extractors!
• MYTH: Facial exercises help reduce wrinkles and/or firm the skin

Astringents and your skin

Just saying the word astringent connotes a drying, tightening, caustic liquid you would put on problem or oily skin. This term is at best antiquated and doesn’t really apply or equate to the term toner any more.

If you are using a true astringent with alcohol (the bad kind) as an ingredient—stop! Don’t use it another day. Throw it away (or if you just purchased it, return it), and know you just gave your skin a huge break from a harmful product. 

Astringents in years past almost always contained alcohol—on purpose—and some toners still do. Alcohol is used to dry up the oil on your face, therefore helping your oily skin, right? The truth is, using the bad kind of alcohol, like the kind used in some types of toners, is one of the worst things you can do to your skin. Instead of promoting health, alcohol destroys the healthy balance your skin requires to function properly, which can promote problems. Drying up oil actually puts your skin in a state of emergency in a sense and causes your oil glands to produce more oil to compensate for the loss (caused by the drying effect of alcohol).

Unfortunately, toners and astringents are sometimes lumped together even though in reality they are very different (if by astringent you mean a product containing high concentrations of alcohol). If you have oily skin (or any skin type) do not use a toner with alcohol, no matter if it’s called an astringent or not.

For more information, see:

• Do I really need to use a toner?
• Alcohol in Products: The good and the bad
• The Basics 1-2-3 Program

Just Say NO to a Lip Wax!

If you haven’t ever had your upper lip waxed—don’t! The reason I don’t recommend a first-time lip wax is simply because you will be starting a never-ending process. You could be creating thicker, darker hair in an area that may actually be just fine as it is. Contrary to what you may have heard (that the hair doesn’t grow in darker after waxing), in my experience with what I’ve seen with my clients is that it does.

What I have found throughout the years working on thousands of female clients is that they have a defective view of the hair that exists above their lips. Granted, some women do have a true moustache that contains thick, dark hair that may need to be removed. But for the most part, many women just think they need to have a lip wax, when in actuality they have no real noticeable dark hair on their upper lip. Unfortunately this is sometimes encouraged by fellow aestheticians.

I used to offer waxing at my salons. Why? I knew people (mostly women) were going to get waxing procedures done. At least in my salons I would have done the best job I could to ensure every client would have a proper waxing experience. Call it quality control. I didn’t personally execute the service myself, but my employees did. They were, however, discouraged from waxing someone for the first time, especially a lip wax. The reason I instructed my employees to never do a first-time lip wax is simply because I didn’t want to be contributing to any client’s aforementioned “never-ending process.”

Now, I no longer have employees and I haven’t offered waxing services for years, and I haven’t performed a lip wax since working at The Spa at the Crescent, which was my second skin care job in 1986. So not only do I not recommend waxing, I am no longer qualified to give this service. Truthfully, I didn’t like waxing simply because I was and am more interested in helping people take care of their skin, from the inside out, so removing hair wasn’t going to be a service I provided when I opened my own business. I do, of course, have referrals for anyone who wants to get waxing services.

For more information, see:

• Eyebrows: Should you wax or tweeze?
• Shari’s (chin hair) waxing story
• Hair Removal Options: Waxing

Aestheticians/Pros: PLEASE READ THIS!

For a while now I have been posting articles for the layperson here on ageless beauty, timeless skin, and I hope this information is and continues to be helpful for you in keeping your skin healthy and balanced.

Many aestheticians also read this blog, and originally I was going to post articles here to help professionals from my 30 years of experience. I changed my mind and created a new blog: Help for Aestheticians: Starting a business. There I will be posting many articles for skin care pros.

Most of the articles will be about how to run a successful business—or how I have, anyway. There are many ideas that can help almost any business looking to increase their client base along with ideas to build client relationships.

For any of you interested in seeing how I have run my business, read away! Some of the posts may actually be interesting to you, although I wrote them for professionals who I hope will get good ideas to help them in their businesses and their careers in skin care.

Also, I won’t be posting articles from the professional blog on my FB page like I do from this blogsite. You’ll have to visit the new blog in order to read any new or existing articles. Click on the title to be taken to Help for Aestheticians: Starting a business. Enjoy!

For more information, see:

• Starting your career in skin care 
• Aesthetician’s questions
• Another Aesthetician Helped with Timeless Skin 

Microdermabrasion—What’s all the fuss about?

What is microdermabrasion? There is a lot written about this anti-aging procedure. Let’s take a look at what all the fuss is about.

There are no lasers or chemicals used in microdermabrasion. The procedure entails a small tube that sprays a jet of fine crystals (resembling sand) onto the skin’s surface, which helps remove dead and damaged cells. It is said to be painless and does not require anesthesia of any kind. It’s sometimes called a “lunchtime peel,” meaning you can go in on your lunch break and come out without looking too red or swollen.

Many clients (myself included) didn’t find the procedure to be 100% painless. And when I did some experiments, getting microdermabrasion facials on just one side of my face (I’m the eternal experimenter!), the side that was abraded was very sensitive—even to the touch—for several days.

Microdermabrasion helps regenerate new cell growth. It is said to stimulate collagen production and increase blood supply to the skin. With repeated treatments, you may notice some of your fine lines and wrinkles have diminished. Pigmentation irregularities, such as hyperpigmentation or chloasma, are said to show signs of improvement. (Remember, as long as you are prone to chloasma, it will continue to appear no matter what. This means that even if you have erased the dark spots with this or any other procedure or product, given time and sun exposure, you will be right back where you started from.)

Realistically, this could read: EXFOLIATE for younger, smoother skin.

Microdermabrasion is FDA approved and is usually performed by a licensed aesthetician. Keep in mind that not all aestheticians are skilled technicians, but everyone wants to jump on the bandwagon to make more money. Well, almost everyone—so there may be unqualified people offering microdermabrasion.

I would be very careful to find someone who has gone through proper training in this procedure. Just like searching for a good aesthetician, you want to ask a lot of questions and find someone who really knows what she’s talking about—not just someone who wants to take your money, promising you 20-year-old skin. 

Like with facials using glycolic acid, you are encouraged to get a series of microdermabrasion sessions along with using special products from the salon. Once again, if microdermabrasion is simply a mild topical exfoliation, I believe you could accomplish the same results by exfoliating more regularly at home as well as getting regular facial treatments.

If you had facials as often as they have you come in for microdermabrasion treatments, surely you would see a noticeable change for the better in your skin. On the other hand, if this procedure goes deep enough to affect significant changes in your pigmentation or even your wrinkles, it scares me to think of the consequences of microdermabrasion being performed by mere aestheticians.

Although the skin is resilient, it is still a delicate organ. I don’t believe in disrupting the outer dead skin with invasive or even semi-invasive procedures, but of all the current skin removal techniques, this particular one seems the least harmful.

I have not seen improvements in my clients’ pigmentation spots with this procedure, nor do I believe it truly stimulates collagen production. Microdermabrasion will improve the texture of your skin, as will any exfoliating process. Be aware, however, that microdermabrasion is pricey. In fact when my clients ask about microdermabrasion, I tell them to get it themselves and see what they think, but that I know for sure—for me—it is simply expensive exfoliation.

For more information, see:

• Microdermabrasion Q & A + one client’s experience (and it’s not a good one!) This is one of my client’s microdermabrasion catastrophes.
• Machines used in facials—are they necessary? 
• What are glycolic peels?

What is the SHELF LIFE of skin care products? And how to tell if a product has “gone bad”

What is the shelf life of products?

Every product is different, and every shelf life is different, so the answer to this question varies and is based on several factors. First, has the product been opened? Depending on how they are sealed, unopened skin care products have (or should have) a long shelf life. But at the same time, you don’t want products that have been on the shelf forever. Opened, it is really anyone’s guess how long a product will last without losing its potency. Second, has the product been exposed to heat or sunlight? This can dramatically decrease the life of a product.

Products in tubes tend to have a lower rate of bacterial infestation than products that come in jars. With jars, you are usually putting your bare fingers in each time to get out product, which may allow a lot of bacteria to enter the cream or lotion. Even though many companies provide a spatula or some type of applicator, I don’t know if anyone really uses them. In general, your opened skin care products should last at least six months to a year or even more.

Sunscreen is different. I recommend throwing any sun product away after a year. Why? I want the potency of these sun protective products to be at their peak. There is no way for the consumer to test sun products to make sure they are still potent and therefore actively helping with UV radiation. Why take the risk?

Also, if I find a sunscreen in my car and it’s not summer, I automatically toss it. Summer is over and who knows how many days this product has spent in a hot car. Buy new sun products at the beginning of spring or summer. This way you will ensure fresher ingredients in these all-important products. If you wear sunscreen on your face on a daily basis, it won’t be an issue as to whether the product is potent or not. You will naturally be going through a tube or jar of sunscreen within at least six months time.

Do be sure to keep any and all products away from direct sunlight, which can cause damage to anything if given enough time. In Sunscreen: Toss it out! (see below), I write about marking/dating your sunscreens so you know how old they are.

How can I tell if my products have “gone bad?” How long do products last?

Just like food, organic ingredients in skin care products do go bad and will let you know by emitting an unpleasant odor. The more organic and natural the ingredients are in a product, the more likely it will go bad at some point. This also depends on the preservatives used (all products contain preservatives) and if your product has been exposed to heat or direct sunlight over a period of time. So if a product smells funny, rancid, or in any other way “bad,” I wouldn’t use it anymore.

Ingredients sometimes separate (for instance creating a runny consistency), and this may be a sign that your product has gone bad. If the texture has changed from its original state (if it is now runny when it wasn’t before, or if it has hardened when it wasn’t before), it is probably time to toss it in the garbage.

The shelf life of products vary, and there is no ironclad answer as to how long a particular product will last before going bad. If products have a seal and this seal hasn’t been broken, they could last several years on the shelf without altering the ingredients. This is not always true, but I have had experience with taking products home and forgetting I had them. Then, when I moved to a new home, for instance, I found them again, unopened, and started to use them even though they were a few years old. I had no problems and the products seemed (and smelled) as though they were from a brand new shipment.

Less organic, more synthetic products (inert or inactive) could last indefinitely on the shelf. They don’t have many bacteria-forming ingredients that could cause potential damage to the product.

Obviously we all want the freshest, newest batch of products to use on our skin. But the shelf life of most products (unopened) is probably longer than you would imagine. As a general rule of thumb: Let your nose be your guide.

For more information, see:

• Sunscreen: Toss it out!
• Yonka moves to airless jar technology for their newer skin care creams
• Shelf life of Yonka-Paris skin care products

HEADSPACE: Get your meditation on

I love foreign accents, quiet time, and innovation. Those are just some of the reasons I love Headspace. (www.headspace.com)

Headspace was co-foundeded by Rich Pierson and British-accented Andy Puddicombe and is a very easy way to start a meditation practice—or continue your practice in a different way. The following was taken directly from Wikipedia:

Andy Puddicombe (born 23 September 1972) is the founder of Headspace; an award-winning digital health platform that provides guided meditation sessions for its users. A former Buddhist monk with a degree in Circus Arts. According to The Times, he is also considered the “international poster boy for the modern mindfulness movement.” As both author and public speaker, Puddicombe is known for his simple, accessible and secular approach, which has led to over 1 million users of the Headspace platform. The New York Times claims “Puddicombe is doing for meditation what Jamie Oliver has done for food.”

I have meditated on and off throughout my life. A few years back I was regular, putting on my headphones and “sitting” in meditation for 20-30 minutes a day. For whatever reason, I stopped practicing—until recently. A wonderful client of mine mentioned Andy and that she had started using his meditation app. I did some research to see what this was all about. I was intrigued since I truly wanted to resume a meditation practice.

One of the biggest draws for me was this is guided meditation, where someone (Andy in this case) talks you through the time spent “sitting.” Also, Headspace sessions start with 10 minutes a day. Seriously—who doesn’t legitimately have ten minutes somewhere in the day to help improve their health and well-being?

I love listening to Andy’s voice; as I mentioned, I love an accent and his is wonderful. I love how he pronounces body (boudy). But seriously, that is not why I am doing this. I know from personal experience how much calmer and more grounded I feel after doing even a few minutes (perhaps 10?) a day of sitting, getting quiet—meditating. It does and will make a positive difference in your life. Even if you’re not a “meditator” or don’t really understand what meditation is, give this a try and you may be surprised how good it makes you feel.

Headspace offers a 10-day free trial. Give it a go and see if you can find 10 minutes a day to get some headspace. Give your mind a rest and take some stress out of your day. Go ahead—take a few minutes out for yourself: you’re worth it!

I want to add that I am not being paid to share this information. I’m not receiving any benefits from any clicks you make from this blog page nor from mentioning Headspace or Andy Puddicombe. I simply want to share something with you that has brought more goodness into my life.

For more anti-stress ideas, see:

• Relaxation—can you dig it?
• Bathtime Quick Tips
• De-stressing Quick Tip: Music IS the doctor

The Forgotten Places: The Elbows

When was the last time you put anything on your elbows? This area is truly a Forgotten Place on many people—including those as young as teenagers.

Moisturizing is the most important thing you can do to keep your elbows from looking like they just stepped off an elephant. If you have a special hand cream, smooth a little on your elbows as well. This skin needs attention and should become a part of your Forgotten Places routine.

You can also exfoliate your elbows. It’s not something I personally subscribe to, but exfoliation certainly helps skin, no matter where it is located. Be careful while using an exfoliater on your elbows. Although this skin may feel tough, it is very thin skin and can be sensitive to too much abrasion.

As far as sunscreen goes, when putting it on your arms, get some on your elbows too. But for the most part, moisturizing is the main step you want to include when taking care of your forgotten elbows.

For more information, see:

• Do you have dry, itchy skin on your body? 
• Yonka’s CREME MAINS: Repairing Hand Cream (although this is a hand cream, I think it would do wonders for rough, dry elbows)
• Are you forgetting something? The Forgotten Places—face & body

Oily Skin explained

What is oily skin? This is a condition where the sebaceous glands are producing too much oil. The passageway from the oil gland to the skin’s surface is via the hair follicle. Along this route, if too much oil is being produced, a traffic jam or backup will occur. This backup produces any number of problems: blackheads (comedos or open pores), whiteheads (milia or closed pores), pustules (debris inside a closed pore is infected with pus), and potentially acne (infected cysts deep within the skin).

Why is it oily? Your skin can be oily for a number of reasons.

• Of course, you may be predisposed genetically to having oily skin (one or both parents had oily and/or problem skin). 
• Diet plays a big role in how much oil is being produced.
• Climate (temperature) will affect your oil gland activity.
• Heat stimulates glandular activity, so a hot summer’s day can cause your skin to be oily.
• Puberty and the onset of hormonal surges can cause oily skin to appear.
• Even the beginning of menopause can bring about fluctuations in the oil glands that can cause more oil to be produced for a period of time.
• Soap, because of its stripping action, can signal your glands to compensate by pumping out more oil.

In general, your skin is oily because your sebaceous or oil glands are producing too much oil. The excess oil will just sit on the surface of your skin, making your face look and feel oily as well as causing a buildup of oil and debris in your pores.

What to use on oily skin. Keeping oily skin clean is of the utmost importance. What you are cleansing it with is equally important. Contrary to popular opinion, you don’t want to “dry out” oily skin. Drying it out sounds logical, but this method is ineffective and won’t clear up problems. However, you do want to keep the surface cleaned out. This is done through using non-alkaline cleansers on a twice-daily basis (morning and evening). For a deep and thorough cleansing, use a clay mask once or several times per week. Finally, exfoliating actively with a gommage or scrub will help keep the dead skin buildup to a minimum. It is dead skin and oil that clog the pores, so keeping the skin clean and well exfoliated will help curb congestion.

For more information, see:

• Determining Skin Type
• Using dry skin products on oily skin—STOP THE INSANITY!
• Old skin/Young skin

Where to look for a great facial

Finding a good professional facial involves two key elements. First, you need to find a qualified and experienced aesthetician (a person licensed to perform facials). Then you want to find someone who uses quality products. Both the aesthetician and the product need to be good for the facial to be worth your time and money. You may have to go through some trial and error before you find the perfect facial for you.

The easiest way to find someone who is good at her craft is through a friend’s referral. You want suggestions from someone who has had a lot of facials, a person whose opinion you respect. If your friends don’t get them, ask if someone they know can steer you to a good place for a facial. If you’ve just moved to a new town, ask everyone you meet for a referral, and if the same name keeps coming up, you can start there. (Prior to my books being published, my entire business was built from referrals. It’s the best advertising there is.) If you can’t get a referral, do an Internet search and start calling salons.

When a client moves out of town, I call around to salons in her area to gather information that will help me determine where she might find a good facial. I recommend doing this yourself if you don’t know where to go. Believe it or not, these initial calls will tell you a lot. Keep in mind, you’re looking for a professional. Ask to speak to the aesthetician if she’s available. If not, you’ll have to settle for whoever can answer your questions. Here’s what to ask: 

1. What type of business is it? Is it a full-service salon with hair, nails, and massage, or exclusively skin care? Is it a salon with several aestheticians or an individual running her own business? The individual business owner is more likely to provide the most private environment. She may, however, be leasing space within a large salon, so if size matters to you, be sure and ask. Large salons tend to be less private, with many people coming in and out of them all day long. Some people like more privacy; others enjoy the energy of a busy salon. 

2. Which products does the salon use? If you’re not familiar with the products they use, don’t worry. Eventually you’ll have firsthand experience with different product lines and can make an educated decision about their effectiveness with your particular skin. If you know the products they use, you may or may not need to ask further questions.

Are samples available? I rarely sell products to a first-time client. Not that I won’t, but I prefer to send my client home with samples so she can determine, in the privacy and comfort of her own home, if they are worth the investment. High-quality, effective products will sell themselves without high-pressure sales tactics. If you can’t sample the product (and even if you can), be clear about the salon’s return policy before you decide to buy. 

3. How long has the aesthetician worked there? Is she new? Has she worked in five different places in the past two years? If she’s worked there a long time, at least you know she’s stable and probably has a large and satisfied clientele. If you are just going for an occasional facial, these particular questions aren’t going to be very important to you. But if you are looking for a salon or an aesthetician to get regular facials from, keep this in mind: you are looking to build a relationship. The aesthetician’s personality, her knowledge about skin care, her reliability, stability, etc., are all going to be important qualities to look for. If she tends to move around a lot, and you like her facials, you may find yourself moving around with her. This may not necessarily be a negative, although it could get quite inconvenient for you. 

4. How long has she been an aesthetician? The first few years after skin care school are when your education truly begins. Right after school and without practical experience, you simply don’t know as much as you will in later years. A novice aesthetician is not what you are looking for. Does she use the product herself? You’d be surprised how many people don’t use the products they sell. That’s a very bad sign. The skill of the aesthetician plus her commitment to a quality product are what make a facial great. 

5. How long is the facial? The person you speak to may ask you, “Which one?” I’ll tell you right now I’m not a fan of “menus” when it comes to facials, yet most salons will have one. In my own business, I have one facial that includes everything possible for each individual’s skin to be its best. I do not add costly steps while “en route,” nor do I believe the client should be deciding what her skin needs. It’s not a restaurant where you order what you want; it’s a treatment based on a professional analysis of what’s going on with your skin. The aesthetician should decide the course of treatment for the client, not the other way around. Facials usually last from one to one and a half hours. Anything less than an hour may not be enough time to have quality work done. In recent years I have added a one-hour facial that I provide for those who are stretching to afford a facial and for younger, teenage clients. It is simply a pared-down version of the original.

6. Does the salon use machines? Here are some of the machines and other items that might be used in a facial: steam, brush machine, the vacuum, galvanic current, high-frequency, oxygen facials, comedone extractors, and lancets. See Machines used in facials—are they necessary? for detailed information about all the different machines that you may encounter in a facial.

7. What about extractions? I am wary of a place that doesn’t provide this service. I’ve heard more than one story of clients in desperate need of extractions who find themselves in a salon that refuses to do them. Conversely, I know many clients who truly needed few or no extractions and were “mashed” needlessly. Once again, the skill of the aesthetician comes into play. But an aesthetician or a salon with a “no extractions” policy is saying that they are unwilling to treat all skin conditions. They will not be able to give you what you potentially need. If you know you need extractions, asking this question will quickly eliminate any salon that refuses to do them. If you positively don’t need extractions, or you simply abhor extractions and don’t want them done, then going to a salon that doesn’t provide that service won’t be a problem for you.

8. How much does the facial cost? Prices vary, so you’ll want to call around and know the going rate for facials in your area, so there are no surprises. If one facial is a lot more expensive than the next, you’ll want to find out why. Price is another area where menus come into play. And again, this is another reason I don’t like them. I believe each person should get a whole and complete facial dictated by his or her individual needs. One facial may cost less than another, but perhaps you won’t get everything your skin needs for the lesser price.

Is the price all-inclusive or can extras be added? Unfortunately I have heard many stories of clients who went in to get a $90 facial and came out paying $130 or more. Ouch! There is a little trick you’ll want to watch out for, and it goes something like this: you go into the salon you’ve chosen expecting a $90 facial. But as the aesthetician works on you, she keeps mentioning how dehydrated you are or repeatedly noting some other problem. “You need deep exfoliation,” she says. And you agree. Then when you get your bill, you may be surprised to find you agreed to an extra $20 or $30 service! Make sure to ask if the facial includes everything or if exfoliation, masks, ampoules, etc., are an extra charge. If some of these are not included, you still may want to add them, but certainly you want to know the cost beforehand. A facial, in my opinion, should include everything needed for that client during each treatment without extra charges being tacked on.

9. What will my skin look like afterwards? Your skin should look radiant. It should be clean, clear, and healthy-looking. Unless you have problem skin that requires a lot of extraction, your skin should not be red, irritated, or feel greasy with excess cream needing to be wiped off. Your skin should look and feel great.

10. Will makeup be applied after the facial? There are two reasons you don’t want to apply makeup after a facial. First and foremost, your skin has just been thoroughly cleansed. The last thing you want to do is cover it up with makeup. Second, it is a signal you’ll no doubt be in for a big sales pitch. You’re a captive audience when someone is applying makeup to you, and it can cause even the strongest resister to cave in. Let your skin have a break from makeup for a while. Perhaps the salon wants to use makeup to hide the work they did in the facial. Remember, your skin should look great afterwards. Why cover it up? You may be going out right after a facial and need to apply some makeup. Go ahead, but don’t make it an after-facial habit.

For more information, see:

• What to expect in a facial treatment 
• Facial frequency: How often should I get a facial? 
• MYTH: Facials make your skin break out

Pregnant with Problem Skin

The only difference between problem skin when you’re expecting and when you’re not is just a matter of control. When you are pregnant, your body and how it functions is essentially out of your control. I tell my clients (especially first-time pregnancies) to (metaphorically) throw theirs arms up in the air and resign themselves to these changes. This is usually not welcome news.

Having a relaxed attitude about the changes that occur in your body—and your skin—is very important. Consider adopting The Serenity Prayer (by Reinhold Niebuhr): “God, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change; courage to change the things I can; and wisdom to know the difference.” When you’re pregnant, serenity and wisdom will be your greatest allies. You can control your skin (raging hormones) just about as well as you can stop your belly from growing. If you realize early on that you are not in control of your body and the baby is, you will fare a whole lot better.

Case history one. A client of mine, Merry, was pregnant with her first child. Merry, then 27, had been coming to me for a little over five years. Her skin has always been clear with a few blackheads around her nose and chin along with constant slight dehydration. She has a sensitivity to sugar, but unless she has overindulged in the sweet stuff or it’s “that time of the month,” her skin doesn’t usually breakout.

Soon after she got pregnant, her skin began to go haywire. At first she came in with mild breakout, which for her skin was unusual. As the weeks progressed, so did her breakouts until finally around the third month she basically had acne. She went from coming in for facials once a month to having one weekly. She needed all the extra help she could get.

Luckily Merry has a good head on her shoulders. She realized she couldn’t really do anything about the hormones that were surging in her body. And she knew she wouldn’t be able to take anything orally for the skin eruptions since she was pregnant. She decided to wait it out, hoping her skin would eventually adjust.

I had Merry on a program of constant at-home care. First I recommended a lot of exfoliating with a gel-type peel (like Yonka’s Gommage) to help rid the surface skin of dead cells, which could lead to more congestion. Next she used a clay mask that helped draw impurities and plugs up toward the surface and soothed her irritated skin. I also had Merry dot clay on any spots that were infected and sleep with the dots on overnight. She used a clay mask on her entire face several times per week. Exfoliating and using a clay mask were essential in keeping her skin under control—from the outside.

Geranium oil was another important addition to Merry’s skin control program. It is easy to use and is essential in helping tackle problem skin. When you dot a small amount on any infected areas, the antibacterial properties in this essential oil will curb bacterial growth and help to clear the blemish without drying it out. As I’ve explained in articles on problem skin, you want to attend to the breakout with products that not only help to clear your skin, but also soothe the irritations as well. Although I’ve never had a pregnant client whose doctor said “no” to essential oil use, do consult with your OB/GYN before using essential oils.

I am happy to say Merry’s skin eventually returned to normal. It took about four months after the birth of her child to clear up, but she no longer has any new breakout. She did have some temporary discoloration from the problem skin she experienced. Pustules and deep cysts take weeks—sometimes months—to completely clear from the skin. Even after the infection and redness is gone, the damaged tissue still has to make its way up to the surface and be sloughed off. Be patient and know that in most cases, your skin will eventually return to normal.

Case history two. Another client, Melissa, has a different kind of skin malady brought on by pregnancy. Melissa has beautiful, flawless skin. She is 38 years old, the mother of a 2-year-old son, and is 6 months pregnant. When she was pregnant with her first child, she started noticing brilliant red “dots” on her face as well as her upper chest or décolleté area.

She was pretty concerned about this redness since her skin is milky white, making these dots very prominent. I assured her they were part and parcel of her pregnancy. I knew this because earlier in my career, I had gone through a total of three pregnancies with one client who developed these same red spots with every pregnancy. After each baby was born, eventually the dots disappeared.

Technically, these bright red or purplish dots are called spider angiomas, and may appear due to an excess of estrogen. They are basically dilated capillaries that look like red lines radiating from a central red dot. Once the baby is born, the hormone levels return to normal, and the dots will usually disappear on their own within three to six months.

Sure enough, about three months after Melissa gave birth to her son, the dots started to disappear. Cut to the present: pregnant again, and lo and behold, the red dots have reappeared. Now, as with so many things after the first pregnancy, Melissa has a proven history of developing these spots and the relief of knowing they do go away.

As I have said, your body is not your own during pregnancy. Things that show up in that nine-month time period many times will go away—on their own—soon after you have given birth and/or finished breast-feeding. Remember, nothing is forever, and this includes skin irregularities developed during pregnancy. Keep your eye on the prize—the miracle you are creating!

For more information, see:

• Pregnancy: Some factors that may be affecting your skin
• Pregnancy and Skin Care
• Help For Breakouts 
• Geranium (or Lavender)—spot remover for breakouts

Anne Geddes, of course!

Helpful hints to lessen sugar intake

Perhaps you’ve read Sugar Addicted? Try a three-day sugar fast (see link below) and decided to give up sugar for a while. Maybe it was a New Year’s resolution, deciding it was time to make a positive change and sugar had to go. Whether you’re skilled at letting the sweet stuff go or need some helpful hints, the suggestions below may be new to you, and my hope is these ideas help you to lessen sugar in your diet to bring you closer to balanced health.

Don’t eat sugar two days in a row. If I follow this rule, the addiction doesn’t have a chance to set in, I get to exercise my will, and I can have sugar every now and then. This doesn’t mean it’s OK to eat it every other day. It means don’t go on a run of eating sugar for days on end. Have some cookies one day if you haven’t had sugar in a while and just want to indulge. But stop there. Otherwise you will get your system readdicted and you’ll have to go through the withdrawal process all over again. Don’t start another chain of events. Don’t link one day of eating sugar to the next. You want to break the chain, not start one.

Another alternative is to go sugar-free Monday through Friday and allow yourself a moderate amount of sugar on the weekends. It’s like a reward for being good most of the week. It is the excessive intake of any toxic substance that creates the downfall of health. I’m not a big believer in complete denial or deprivation; moderation is the key here. Allow yourself some pleasure, but keep your sugar intake in check. Remember, you control how much sugar you eat; don’t let sugar control you.

If you don’t crave it, don’t eat it. Sometimes eating sugar is just a habit. Jars or bowls of sweets are lying around your home or office, so you constantly have visual cues to eat the sweet stuff. If this is true, it will be hard to just walk past that dish full of jelly beans or M&Ms, but you’ve got to give it a shot. Sometimes you have to forgo the good stuff to get to the great stuff, which in this case is clear skin (if you know you're sensitive to sugar). So if you aren’t going crazy with a sugar craving, pass up the sweets.

Don’t buy things you know you’re going to eat. If you are anything like me, when it comes to the junk foods you love, you have faulty willpower. I sometimes buy a sugary food thinking, “Well, I just want it around in case I have an uncontrollable craving.” And the truth is, at the moment I hold that item in my hands, I know in my soul that I will be eating it as soon as I get home. This is not to say I don’t give in to my cravings from time to time. But if something is sitting around my house, and it’s one of the junk foods I like, I will eat it. So my suggestion is this: don’t buy foods to keep around the house you know you don’t really want to eat or shouldn’t eat. When that major craving comes along and you decide to give in, go out and get the sweets you crave at that moment and be done with it. Make it a one-time deal. Don’t keep poor-quality foods lying around in your kitchen calling you to “come and get it.”

Not buying the sweet things you like may seem like a simple concept, but just wait till you’re in the grocery store eyeballing all those sweet delights. You may think to yourself, “I’ll just get one (box, bag, or pint) and keep it for emergency sugar attacks.” Or you may think if you buy your favorite candy you’ll be able to eat “just one.”

My objective is to take you to the land of awareness, and to help you realize you have the ability to affect the health of your skin. In order to do this, you need to understand the correlation between sugar and your skin problems. It is within your power to say yes or no to sugar. Now you can decide if you want to contribute to your breakouts or not.

For more information, see:

• Sugar Addicted? Try a three-day sugar fast
• Hidden Sugar: Sugar in Unsuspected Places
• Sodas, sugar and your skin
• I’m sensitive to sugar—are you?

Um—I think it was not within her power quite yet